SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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tchavei

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I guess I just don't understand if this mod works so well on NI200 why would you want to use Ti. I wrapped a twisted Kanthal and NI200 wire and it is sitting on my desk to remind me of what I was thinking. Of course the ones who recommended it are also the ones who started all the crap about RIP. I haven't tried it yet but thought I might on my rDna40. I have learned a lot on here and when I get mine next week I will have a good starting point. Thanks all. I so hope I am not disappointed like I was with my VS. It is a great VW mod though and since I will still be using some Kanthal builds it won't go to waste and I might sell it to someone who likes them and get another M. I have wanted nickel to work so bad since it first came out with the dna and had almost given up. I have made some great flavors that use very little flavoring 2% and I only use 3mg nic so almost completely VG and PG I think it will work well on nickel to keep from getting gunked up. I really haven't read too much bad about the device so heres hoping. I am going to start off with a 29awg spaced coil at 7 wraps 3mm id on a Kanger STM. God I hope it works. Think I will start off about 15J at 400 and will have everything on my body crossed and hoping for the best.
Who said Ti worked better? For what we know, it works worse because of the way the sx handles temp protection.

Use what you like best and be happy with it.

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Tony

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tchavei

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One thing how long are your coils lasting and are the re wickable and easy to clean?
Too soon to tell about how long they last but some people reported over 3 weeks and counting.

Regarding rewickability, the coil is sturdier than kanthal. Actually very resilient. If you can rewick a kanthal coil , you can rewick a Ti coil.

Cleaning... Don't know. I'm still using my original one and it isn't gunked yet. Some people report that scrubbing it under hot water is enough.

Regards
Tony

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2legsshrt

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Too soon to tell about how long they last but some people reported over 3 weeks and counting.

Regarding rewickability, the coil is sturdier than kanthal. Actually very resilient. If you can rewick a kanthal coil , you can rewick a Ti coil.

Cleaning... Don't know. I'm still using my original one and it isn't gunked yet. Some people report that scrubbing it under hot water is enough.

Regards
Tony

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Sorry not speaking of Ti but of the NI200 which seems to work in these. That is what I will be using since that is what is designed for.
 

jwat82

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One thing how long are your coils lasting and are the re wickable and easy to clean?
This is day five of this wick and coil. I'll probably rewick tonight, but I just twist some fluffy cotton till it hits the bottom and we're off to the races :)
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derogg

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One thing how long are your coils lasting and are the re wickable and easy to clean?

You can rewick them. One just needs to be gentle as then Ni200 is soft and will distort if you try and rip the wick out. I haven't had much gunk build up on my coils. I suppose you could dry burn them also. I have seen some videos where people have dry fired the coil prior to wicking to "tiddy" them up.
:2c: Dirk
 

JimScotty0

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JimScotty0

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that is true. I am indeed adjusting T to compensate (very approximately) for the difference in TCR of Ti vs Ni. As I said, however, the DNA40 boxes work very well with Ti. I am not saying theye are better than the SX, just that the way the SX deals with a drycoil condition is different (it seems to check with a power pulse then cuts power and reports dry coil, then it does it again, and again. DNA40 chokes back power to 1 or 2 watts and keeps firing). For some reason, the way the SX does things doesnt work as well. Yes, this is beyond the design spec of the SX and I am not complaining at all! I will continue to use Ti on the DNA40-derived/inspired (!) devices and wait and see if yihi address the Ti issue with a firmware update perhaps in the future!

Thanks for posting the link!!!

Maybe Yihi will offer up a 3rd mode via a firmware upgrade that would deal with Ti better. Sounds like something that is doable by them.
 

JimScotty0

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It should. Although I when I asked a few pages back I saw someone post they are getting 22k Joules out of a 25r. I have consistently been getting 24k Joules or more out of my VTC4s and that's not even with a full drain. I have some 25rs coming in the mail tomorrow so it will be interesting to see what I get with that.

I'm sure different resistances play a big factor into this due to the amount of voltage being used.

A little spoken about feature of the SX Mini is the Joules counter which is similar to a car odometer. With that feature we are now evaluating the life out of each of our batteries in an objective rather than a subjective manner. If I wasn't so anxious to get the next battery in my SX I might be writing down the Joules reading for each of the many batteries I have thrown into this device, some old and some brand new.
 

Mazam

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Too soon to tell about how long they last but some people reported over 3 weeks and counting.

Regarding rewickability, the coil is sturdier than kanthal. Actually very resilient. If you can rewick a kanthal coil , you can rewick a Ti coil.

Cleaning... Don't know. I'm still using my original one and it isn't gunked yet. Some people report that scrubbing it under hot water is enough.

Sometimes i feel i must be one of the exceptions when reading through the boards, given thus far i find working with Nickel to be a lot more enjoyable then getting my Kanthal coils juuuusssst right. I don't see weekly re-builds being a problem for me personally, where as i was always hesitant as heck to pull a good Kanthal build out of my atty regardless how old/charred it started looking (2+ months most of the time)

On a whim i just ripped out my dual coil nickel build out of my Mutation X2, and tried a 3mm single coil. Coming to the conclusion that i definitely prefer single coil builds over dual with TP on this SX Mini.
 

Firecrow

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One thing how long are your coils lasting and are the re wickable and easy to clean?

This has been something I have watched very closely and my conclusion is its really dependent on the juice you use.

I like a 70-30 (PG-VG) in a chocolate mint. The chocolate additive is quite thick (the juice is very dark) with a lot of suspended solids from the flavoring. The Kings Creme is a 50-50 and a clear pink liquid. I find a coil gunks about three times faster with the chocolate mint than it does the kings creme, regardless of Ni-TC or Kanthal regular coils. I think the presence of suspended solids and the nature of the flavor additive has a lot to do with gunking. Ni-TC is only marginally longer for gunking, but, I get thicker clouds and go through juice faster so I think it probably does resist gunking better, it also lets me achieve a denser vape over the same time before gunking - so TC gives me more volume in the same timeframe.

I'm of mixed minds on this because gunking actually is a benefit IMHO - look at all the material that collects and stays in the build as opposed to going up the stack and into your lungs. If you're lung inhaling (mouth or otherwise) its probably better than a clean coil that puts suspended solids into the vapor that would otherwise make it to your lungs. I've no evidence of this other than 18 months of observation and rebuilding coils once every 4 to 7 days. YMMV depending on your juice and power levels.
 

tchavei

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Sometimes i feel i must be one of the exceptions when reading through the boards, given thus far i find working with Nickel to be a lot more enjoyable then getting my Kanthal coils juuuusssst right. I don't see weekly re-builds being a problem for me personally, where as i was always hesitant as heck to pull a good Kanthal build out of my atty regardless how old/charred it started looking (2+ months most of the time)

On a whim i just ripped out my dual coil nickel build out of my Mutation X2, and tried a 3mm single coil. Coming to the conclusion that i definitely prefer single coil builds over dual with TP on this SX Mini.
I actually enjoy building with hardened ni 200. My best coils have been with 30g.
Sorry not speaking of Ti but of the NI200 which seems to work in these. That is what I will be using since that is what is designed for.
My bad then.

I rewick weekly or twice a month. I use the moment to recoil too because it's easier than trying to clean and reuse the old one. They become brittle in time.

Regards
Tony

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MsLoud

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That's me Mazam. I was a bit terrified t try nickle after reading so many people having problems (all DNA devices cause that's all there was then) - then I found out about the Yihi SX mods... Fell in love with the design - kept reading all the people loving their SX and drank the kool-aid. My first nickle coil was a bit low ohm so spun up another one - at 0.11 now and only my second coil...been going for days without the urge to change it - like I did with my kanthal. With kanthal I was constantly re-coiling - feeling like I needed to make it better. With the SX Mini M - it does all the work! I love it!
Nickle seems easy to me maybe because I was use to setting up gennies - I wrap my coil - wick it - then spread out my wraps as needed...nickle is much easier to work with for my personal opinion.
 

dam718

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That's me Mazam. I was a bit terrified t try nickle after reading so many people having problems (all DNA devices cause that's all there was then) - then I found out about the Yihi SX mods... Fell in love with the design - kept reading all the people loving their SX and drank the kool-aid. My first nickle coil was a bit low ohm so spun up another one - at 0.11 now and only my second coil...been going for days without the urge to change it - like I did with my kanthal. With kanthal I was constantly re-coiling - feeling like I needed to make it better. With the SX Mini M - it does all the work! I love it!
Nickle seems easy to me maybe because I was use to setting up gennies - I wrap my coil - wick it - then spread out my wraps as needed...nickle is much easier to work with for my personal opinion.

When I first started building with Nickel (we're only talking like 10 days ago? LoL) I tried some hardening methods... Twisting, bending, straightening, etc. All the methods worked to achieve a higher hardness of the wire. And once I made a coil out of it, it wanted to keep it's shape -- Even if that shape wasn't perfect! I've found that leaving it in its annealed soft state allows for a lot better adjustment once you get the wick in place. Hardening (or tempering) I had some issues getting the coils to maintain their spacing if the initial wrapping wasn't spot on, found the annealed wire coming right off the spool was a bit more forgiving. I'm using 30AWG.
 

jwat82

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Braddahbill

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I am going to start off with a 29awg spaced coil at 7 wraps 3mm id on a Kanger STM. God I hope it works. Think I will start off about 15J at 400 and will have everything on my body crossed and hoping for the best.

Depending on how the Kanger STM performs I think you will end up with a cooler vape. I am not far off from you with NI200 - 28awg - 8wraps - 0.12Ω - 3mm ID coil set at 24J - 420º to get a slightly warm vape on my Lemo 2.
 
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