SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[JJA504]

I notice the nickel is getting hot legs very easily. I was also getting No wick/Dry coil messages despite the coil and wick being soaked. I am wondering if its because the hot legs were burning pretty bad.

I am getting frustrated with the device but I know its probably not it. Just a steep learning curve I guess.

When getting those messages I immediately soaked up my vertex v2 again and it would still give me that message.

Edit - I think 26 ga was a bad idea for me. I liked the thickness of 24, then combined with the nickel being so soft, I have to be extremely careful not to tighten the posts down or it clips the wire.

Is there a way to get rid of the damn hot legs? With kanthal I just squeeze the coil down a few times and its good to go.

 

[tchavei]

I hope you're using a spaced coil... You should use a spaced coil and I can't see how you should get a hot leg with nickel unless you're trying contact coils?

You shouldn't dry burn nickel either. It starts leeching stuff like carbon above 600F.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[MikeA5]

JJ, suggest that you tear down your coil and make a new one and try to get the resistance of your build to at least .1 ohm by making more raps with the 26ga wire that you are using or by making the diameter of the coil larger. Your hot legs that you now are seeing means that something is not right with your coil. I made my wraps using a 3 mm diameter coil 12 wraps 28ga spaced and I got 1.7 ohms.
Also make sure the coil and atomizer are at room temperature when you first screw it on the mod. Then simultaneously press the up/down buttons until you see "Set Resistance". Also you may want to start with a lower coil temperature setting and lower Joule setting and work your way up to a comfortable vape for you.

 

[tchavei]

JJ, suggest that you tear down your coil and make a new one and try to get the resistance of your build to at least .1 ohm by making more raps with the 26ga wire that you are using or by making the diameter of the coil larger. Your hot legs that you now are seeing means that something is not right with your coil. I made my wraps using a 3 mm diameter coil 12 wraps 28ga spaced and I got 1.7 ohms.
Also make sure the coil and atomizer are at room temperature when you first screw it on the mod. Then simultaneously press the up/down buttons until you see "Set Resistance". Also you may want to start with a lower coil temperature setting and lower Joule setting and work your way up to a comfortable vape for you.

0.17 I guess, not 1.7

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[druckle]

The display on the M Class is about 15 mm by 8 mm crudely measured with a ruler.

 

[MikeA5]

Oops yes I meant 0.17 ohms.

 

[JJA504]

Spaced coil? meaning the wraps should be spaced away from each other?

 

[MikeA5]

JJ, yes. I make my wraps just slightly spaced. I'll some times will hold the coil up to light to make sure that I can see light through the space between each wrap of the coil.

 

[MikeA5]

The thing about NI200 is that you need a lot of wraps to get a small resistance, thus making the coil long. So I try to make the spacing between wraps as small as possible without the wraps touching each other. This way the length of the coil will be minimized, making it easier to fit in the atty

 

[militantomg]

Just saw you guys got yours from varitube, was looking to see if anyone had them in stock... so I went ahead on an impulse and bought a black/silver. CANT WAIT!!!

 

[MidwestGuy]

Very, very, very initial impressions...

Heavy, seems very well built. Great screen. Lots of info.

Running my standard DNA40 Lemo build... evenly spaced 8 wrap 30AWG Ni200 tension wrapped off a homemade jig using an M4 left-hand thread machine screw, with an inner diameter of around 3.2mm.

First thing I noticed... my build (on all three Lemos with identical builds) is reading .14ohms on the SX Mini. On all three of my DNA40s, they always read .19 or .20ohms. Interesting.

Initial temp controlled vape: 410F @ 23Joules (with "standard" setting) seems a bit low/weak compared to my DNA40s.

Let the tinkering begin...

ETA: They're all reading around .20ohms now, which is where they should be. Not sure what happened initially. I did thoroughly wipe down the pin on the device, which may have helped, though typically "dirty" connections read higher. Again... interesting.

 

[JJA504]

I just built a 10 wrap spaced as best I could. I wicked it and let it sit did the resistance lock and juiced it up. Afterwards it was barely putting out vapor. As if the temperature was being hit almost instantly.

I let it cool to around 200 F (tested by tapping the fire button quickly) then did another resistance lock. Now its vaping GREAT. I wonder what happened.

 

[Ian444]

I am getting frustrated with the device but I know its probably not it. Just a steep learning curve I guess.

Temp control IS a steep learning curve. There is no hot leg protection, and the coils have to be carefully built. Its not easy at first, but it is easy once you've got it down.

Edit - some links
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/coil-builds/613433-dna-40-nr-nickel-builds.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/temperature-control/658406-tc-builds-troubleshooting.html

 

[MidwestGuy]

Just a quick reminder to all... when you receive your shiny new SX Mini, don't forget to use (screen) protection! Speaking from much experience having several devices with inlayed and basically unprotected screens, when you pull it in/out of your pocket thousands of times, when it gets rubbed up against things, etc. It will become scratched, marred, and full of dirt/lint/dust that is nearly impossible to remove. Protect it; I use cheap/clear adhesive vinyl that is typically sold for mobile phone screens.

 

[militantomg]

Can anyone with an M class and Kanger OCC Nickel coils tell me how the experience is? I've got 2 mini's, a plus, and a nano in my rotation and I mostly use the RBA, but wouldn't mind trying some of the Nickel OCC coils from time to time. I've got my M class enroute from Varitube but don't have any of the Nickel OCC coils.

 

[MidwestGuy]

More very initial impressions... I'm getting a warm, crackly and tasty vape with all of my three .20ohm Ni200 builds, seems quite a bit stronger compared to the DNA40 vape. Not even coming close to "temperature control" on this one and the vape seems quite a bit warmer. I run the DNA40 at 410F / 23watts, I'm running the SX Mini at 23 "Joules" / 410F. The DNA40 will hit temp control pretty quickly, this one doesn't even appear to be coming close to temperature control, even when free-firing/not taking a pull. That seems odd to me, but yet to get any dry/burnt hits...

 

[raiderep]

Well I just pulled the trigger on varitube thanks to the good reviews on them I have been seeing here. I have had a dna40 for a few months now and am looking forward to seeing how yihi has developed their temp control option. I have not been brave enough to build with nickel yet but I have been using the vapor shark coils in my subtank mini and really liking the experience so far.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

burnt cotton test anyone? I know there are vids around but it would be nice to see some data from a 'real' user!!

 

[MikeA5]

On my NI200 coil I first checked the resistance on a ohm meter it read 0.18 ohms. Then when I put it on the SX mini m it read 0.17 ohms, so far the two ohm readings have been close. When I make another build, (probably using the Kanger Sub Tank mini) I'll see again how the two ohm reading compare.

 

[MikeA5]

I'm really liking this TC using a dripper. As soon as the vapor diminishes I add more eliquid. No more burnt cotton or overfilling the atty.
This is my first TC unit, never tried the DNA 40.