SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[retird]

The really need to make an SX-350J "Micro" with a 0.69" display to fit in all those Evolv-ready housings. I'd buy three today if they made them. ...............................................
but I think there's a big untapped market of folks with DNA30/40 mods that would love to slip a Yihi inside, and mod builders that would love to just use one housing setup and let the customer choose Yihi or Evolv.

Yep you are right...the 350j is not modder friendly as designed..... may be easier to have new modder enclosures designed for the 350j rather than redesigning the 350j for an existing enclosure used by other technology........

 

[Vlad1]

I've never needed to know the temp of my atomizer with kanthal. You can taste it. Ni200 is a completely different ballgame and the only TC I have ever had on any mod is on the SX Mini and DNA 40s.

Yea you cant get an accurate temp reading using kanthal hence why they use Ni200. Not real sure what whiteweazel21 talking about.

 

[Woofer]

I've never needed to know the temp of my atomizer with kanthal. You can taste it. Ni200 is a completely different ballgame and the only TC I have ever had on any mod is on the SX Mini and DNA 40s.

How is Ni 200 a completely different ball game in this context?
A hot wire is a hot wire no?

 

[whiteweazel21]

Well, what I mean is that the Cloupor T6 has a temperature reading at the 510 connector (I believe that's where it's taking a temp reading).

The temp reading may not be of the kanthal itself, but it does give a relative measurement. I always look at the mod temp reading, when I hit a reading over 36-38, it's time to slow down/stop. It may not be that advanced, but it definitely works as long as there's juice on the coil I don't get dry, too hot, or too harsh hits simply paying attention to that reading.

The SX does not do that, leaving me completely in the dark with kanthal. Maybe you can feel the atomizer for temp, or feel it in the vape, but with the T6 I can just avoid this issue pretty much all-together loosely monitoring the screen. IDK, maybe this feature is unique to Cloupor.

I still haven't had a chance to try a nickel build. On the SX I already overvaped unknowingly, dark/gunked juice leaked into the tank after some light priming puffs. There's just no relative measurement. Of course this would also happen on a T6, but I'd go through at least 8-10ml before this would happen (on my current diy juice). Vaping blindly, it happened after 2ml on the SX.



Edit: Found a picture online for reference.



Not saying it's perfect, the coil can & does overheat since there's no temperature control over the coil itself. Not true TC, but it gave me some loose, relative guideline when vaping with kanthal.

 

[Vlad1]

Well, what I mean is that the Cloupor T6 has a temperature reading at the 510 connector (I believe that's where it's taking a temp reading).

The temp reading may not be of the kanthal itself, but it does give a relative measurement. I always look at the mod temp reading, when I hit a reading over 36-38, it's time to slow down/stop. It may not be that advanced, but it definitely works as long as there's juice on the coil I don't get dry, too hot, or too harsh hits simply paying attention to that reading.

The SX does not do that, leaving me completely in the dark with kantal. Maybe you can feel the atomizer for temp, or feel it in the vape, but with the T6 I can just avoid this issue pretty much all-together loosely monitoring the screen. IDK, maybe this feature is unique to Cloupor.

I still haven't had a chance to try a nickel build. On the SX I already overvaped unknowingly, dark/gunked juice leaked into the tank after some light priming puffs. There's just no relative measurement. Of course this would also happen on a T6, but I'd go through at least 8-10ml before this would happen (on my current diy juice). Vaping blindly, it happened after 2ml on the SX.

I'm not familiar with the T6 so did a quick look up. The only temperature control / displayed that I see on that unit is for monitoring the cpu temperature which is inside the box and has no relative role to how the vapor coming off the atomizer is or if you get dry hits or not. It's sole purpose is to shutdown the unit when it overheats prior to frying. The Sxmini J also has Temperature overheat protection. If you've been using that to estimate your wicking you've just been really really lucky.

 

[Croak]

The T6 is just telling you the board temp amigo. Sure, there's a correlation between how hot the internals are and how much you've been using it, but it's in no way accurately reflective of atomizer temperature, or how much juice is in the wick, etc. No more than the external thermometer in your car telling you how hot your coolant is.

It's just there to:

A: Look fancy and fill display space
B: Let you know the electronics overheat protection is working.

 

[350ZMO]

Here is the Rose/Silver SX Mini M class next to Metallic Green hana DIY and red/Black XPV-40D.



I had a Sx300 in a pioneer4you burn up on me so I stuffed a SX350 in it. Solid chip so I made another based on a Hammond box. The vendor gave me another p4u that had burned up on somebody and I stuffed a DNA40 in it to add to my others. The two SX350s have been solid just like the four DNA40s. I also have a Kangxin KX-40D but prefer the DNA40s.This is the first SX350J in the collection. I expect it to be just as rock solid given experience with the SX350, we will see.

So far I prefer the SX350J in the SX Mini M class to all others.

I am thankful for TP and give kudos to Evolv and the beta testers for bringing it into the mainstream e-Liquid vaper market. And now give kudos to YiHi for making TP better. Better in that you can set your base resistance when atty has reached ambient temperature. Better as there is no refinement in 10 minutes. Better as it is SW upgradeable.

Yes the interface is different and yes the Mini is heavy. I don't mind either of those and the heavier weight makes it feel...substantial even if it is just the metal case.

And yes it seems to provide a hotter vape than the 40s. I have it set at 390F (standard) to get the same vape experience as 410F on a 40. I don't care which is more accurate as long as it is consistent and it is. So far it is performing flawlessly.

Yes I get a random number in the temperature part of the screen after lowering temperature in Fahrenheit (not tried Celsius or increasing temp) but it switches immediately to my set temp as soon as I hit the fire button. I don't consider this an issue.

I do not hear the rattlesnake sound so if it is PWM its at a high enough frequency that I can't hear it. All I hear is the hiss of vapor being produced.

I too had misgivings about the Joules terminology. As I suspected, using Joules is unnecessarily confusing. It works just like a Watts setting on anything else. If I set something to 18 Joules then I expect it to output 18J and that's it. If I set it to 18J and fired for 1 second then that would be 18W for one second. If I set it to 18J fired for 18s then that would be 1W for all 18s. But to do that it would have to have ESP to know how long my vape was going to be or I would have to set the vape time or it would have to assume a time and/or power ramp which of course I would not like. Forget about it, It doesn't do any of that. Just think of the Joules setting as Watts as it assumes per second, 18W for each second or 18J every second firing continuously as long as the button is pressed and it doesn't hit the TP limit. So even though it is set to 18J if I fire for 10s it outputs 18W every second for a total of 180Joules assuming it doesn't hit the TP limit and even though it is set to only 18J. In other words, it operates just like a 40 set to 18W.

Got the M class from VSPOT Vapes and the LG HE4 from VaporDNA. Thanks Guys.

 

[Vlad1]

Yep you are right...the 350j is not modder friendly as designed..... may be easier to have new modder enclosures designed for the 350j rather than redesigning the 350j for an existing enclosure used by other technology........

With this chip I can see the boxes coming in the next couple months just like the Sx300 enclosures but different https://www.fasttech.com/product/2014504-diy-enclosure-case-for-sx300-g-sensor-vw-apv-box I think it was about two months after they released the Sx350 that these enclosures were available.

 

[a tez]

How is Ni 200 a completely different ball game in this context?
A hot wire is a hot wire no?

Use ni200 in normal mode and see what happens. Also he is talking about mod temp not the wire.

 

[a tez]

I have noticed that the initial resistance reading for me has been wrong on multiple occasions. I just put a fresh kanger Ni200 OCC and it read .224ohm, and then I reset it and it read .101ohm without firing. This is with both the mod and coil at room temp. When firing at .101ohm I couldn't get the mod to get anywhere near the temp I have it set at (400F). Then I waited 10 min, reset it again and it read .14ohm. Kanger rates the coil at .15 and my ohm reader is reading it at .14ohm as well. As soon as it went to .14ohm and I fired it, it was able to hit the temp I have it set at.

Since there is no refinement process I feel like this can become a problem if it is not firing at the correct ohm.

 

[Vlad1]

@350ZMO

Beautiful!! I started to order the rose but from pics online I thought they looked a little to pinkish for me. I'd really like to see one in person because a couple other posters have posted pics and almost making me wish I had ordered the rose.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

350ZMO I really like that rose-flavoured SX. Not a colour I would normally go for but that is really sharp!

 

[Croak]

I have noticed that the initial resistance reading for me has been wrong on multiple occasions. I just put a fresh kanger Ni200 OCC and it read .224ohm, and then I reset it and it read .101ohm without firing. This is with both the mod and coil at room temp. When firing at .101ohm I couldn't get the mod to get anywhere near the temp I have it set at (400F). Then I waited 10 min, reset it again and it read .14ohm. Kanger rates the coil at .15 and my ohm reader is reading it at .14ohm as well. As soon as it went to .14ohm and I fired it, it was able to hit the temp I have it set at.

Since there is no refinement process I feel like this can become a problem if it is not firing at the correct ohm.

That's more than likely Kanger's fault, and that floating 510 pin they use in all the Subtanks.

 

[a tez]

That's more than likely Kanger's fault, and that floating 510 pin they use in all the Subtanks.

It can be. But just for example in my Vlask and Hana they read .16ohm instantly.

 

[Technonut]

It can be. But just for example in my Vlask and Hana they read .16ohm instantly.

If you think it's an issue, perhaps you should RMA it.. Mine's been nothing but rock-solid with the SMOK Gimlet's Ni200 coils since I've had it..

 

[Woofer]

Use ni200 in normal mode and see what happens. Also he is talking about mod temp not the wire.

I have, what happens? I get vapor.

 

[Vlad1]

That's more than likely Kanger's fault, and that floating 510 pin they use in all the Subtanks.

I'd be inclined to agree. Since the positive & negative ends of the coils are only held in place with a mild compression fitting "Small rubber grommet" I can easily see them being a pita knowing how important it is to have good solid connections. I'll only be using the RBA deck with Ni200 on my Subtank. So far it's been reading pretty closely to what Steam Engine says on the coils I've built.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

A lot of people have had [problems specifically with the mini and the Ni OCCs. The nano seems to be much more robust. Im sure its the 510 as Croak suggested. I have two ST mini bases and for some reason, the 510 pins seem much less 'stable' than the nano....there is whole thread about this for anyone interested!

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/temperature-control/660120-kanger-subtank-tscs.html

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I'd be inclined to agree. Since the positive & negative ends of the coils are only held in place with a mild compression fitting "Small rubber grommet" I can easily see them being a pita knowing how important it is to have good solid connections. I'll only be using the RBA deck with Ni200 on my Subtank. So far it's been reading pretty closely to what Steam Engine says on the coils I've built.

Its not the coils though because the nano works great! Anyway, the RBA deck works fantastically well! I managed to get hold of some spare RBA heads and a mini base so I can mess around while I am vaping! Happy days!

 

[Vlad1]

I posted a msg on the Supplier Varitube SXmini thread asking about this. Hopefully Onedesign1 will answer by tomorrow. Perhaps it's reading and displaying something for future use in it's algorithm... Not sure but it really doesn't affect anything as far as I can tell.

Onedesign1 replied to my question a bit ago. He stated.

"its probably a refresh bug. We'll report it but it won;t be a short term priority given its extremely minor but i'm sure it'll get addressed."