SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Pete54]

I don't know if this will help but I've been building Ni200 coils for 3 or 4 months now and have found that you must make sure there are no hot spots before wicking the coil. To do this, I turn off temp mode (or joules in the SX), set the watts to 6.0, screw on my atty and in a darkened area fire it. You are looking for the faint glow to be in the middle of the coil. I use 6 watts because I don't want the nickel to glow red, just barely glow is what I'm after. If you have a hot leg it will show doing this. If the coil glows at the center of the build you should be good to go.
I can immediately taste any kind of improper coil heating. That's what I find gives that metallic taste.
I hope this helps as it has made a huge difference in my builds on both the SX and DNA40 devices.

 

[derogg]

Anyone build a regular kayfun ( not the V4) ? I can not get a good flavor with temp control. I have tried different coil sizes, Joules, temps. It just tasted muted and cool. I finally got the vape to warm up a bit using triple twisted 30 gauge to 0.05 ohms, but the flavor is still not there. I will keep working at it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
-Dirk

 

[zinc]

Anyone build a regular Kayfun ( not the V4) ? I can not get a good flavor with temp control. I have tried different coil sizes, Joules, temps. It just tasted muted and cool. I finally got the vape to warm up a bit using triple twisted 30 gauge to 0.05 ohms, but the flavor is still not there. I will keep working at it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
-Dirk

in my experience the more airflow the better when working with TC.

 

[dam718]

in my experience the more airflow the better when working with TC.

I agree... I tried this mod on my Kayfun and totally dorked up the center pin. Had to buy one that was already drilled out from Kayfun Mods. I was able to drill out the air hole in the base fairly easy with a cobalt bit on a drill press, lots of machine oil


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[jazzvaper]

Anyone build a regular Kayfun ( not the V4) ? I can not get a good flavor with temp control. I have tried different coil sizes, Joules, temps. It just tasted muted and cool. I finally got the vape to warm up a bit using triple twisted 30 gauge to 0.05 ohms, but the flavor is still not there. I will keep working at it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
-Dirk

Not a kayfun proper but a r91% which is very close to a KFL or KFL+.

The R91% was my (first) test case with the SX. Although there is at least one person here on ECF who is very satisfied with the R91, I was unable to get a good vape on the other TC mod.

On the SX the R91 (and therefore a Kayfun) was at least vapable.


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[Woofer]

Deleted...
oops sorry I'm not playing in this thread

 

[jazzvaper]

^^^^ you were the person I had in mind.


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[Braddahbill]

So Im still having the same issues with my Lemo 2 as before. Starting it out low (something like 13j at .065-.068 ohms) and watching the temp and it consistently goes up and hovers to whatever my set temp is like it should. Had it at 24J and 465. Then it slowly starts to die off, and the temp does not rise. Just jumps up to its set point and starts going bonkers. IM almost positive it's the wicking. I cannot seem to get it right and I've tried everything. Just to make sure I'm not crazy I did the same build on a subtank mini, and it's working just as it should consistently. Disappointing I can't get it right because Im not the biggest fan of the airflow/flavor the STM puts out and those first few draws on the Lemo are perfect.

If all of your connections are tight, my guess would be in the wicking.

Questions

On page 120 in this thread I posted a picture of the Lemo 2 - did you separate the coil stand from the atomizer base and make sure the screw on the bottom of the coil stand was tight?

What type of wicking material are you using? I use Japanese Cotton - Muji brand.

Are you using enough cotton to where when you pull the wick into the coil it is snug and completely filling the inner diameter of the coil? I like mine just snug enough as to not deform the coil when installing the wick.

Are you trapping the coil legs under the screws or are you using the post holes?

I have been using all 3 Lemos single strand 28awg NI200 at around 0.1xx and have just started building at 0.08x and only had the one instance you are describing, and after re-wicking, it solved the problem. You mentioned the first few pulls on the Lemo are perfect and I think that is because the first few pulls are from when you PRIMED the coil and as the juice is used up from being primed, the coil is not no longer getting enough juice to produce a full vape.

I have a chart below used for battery tracking but you can also see the atty information, and like I said only had one problem that re-wicking corrected.

 

[dam718]

My first TC build was on a Kayfun Lite+ that had the airway opened up. It was actually a great vape. I had the Joules pretty low, around 12J if I remember right. Because of the tiny chimney it was still a pretty warm vape. Have you tried using lower joules? Anything higher than 12-15 and I started having issues


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[Yozhik]

IDK who the heads were made for but I didn't care for them. The Nautilus was not a good choice for nickel IMO not enough air flow the Kanger are OK but I like my own coils a lot better. Come to think of it the Nautilus NI200 I don't think are even usable on the SX they are .3 ohms and after a little use go up to .32 or more.

I'm using the Nautilus nickel coils in my SX Mini and they still work (no dry hits), but I don't think so far they are worth the additional expense. Kanthal is just fine for those tanks, so long as you don't let the juice get too low or overdrive them.

 

[Mhansel411]

If all of your connections are tight, my guess would be in the wicking.

Questions

On page 120 in this thread I posted a picture of the Lemo 2 - did you separate the coil stand from the atomizer base and make sure the screw on the bottom of the coil stand was tight?

What type of wicking material are you using? I use Japanese Cotton - Muji brand.

Are you using enough cotton to where when you pull the wick into the coil it is snug and completely filling the inner diameter of the coil? I like mine just snug enough as to not deform the coil when installing the wick.

Are you trapping the coil legs under the screws or are you using the post holes?

I have been using all 3 Lemos single strand 28awg NI200 at around 0.1xx and have just started building at 0.08x and only had the one instance you are describing, and after re-wicking, it solved the problem. You mentioned the first few pulls on the Lemo are perfect and I think that is because the first few pulls are from when you PRIMED the coil and as the juice is used up from being primed the coil is not no longer getting enough juice to produce a full vape.

I have a chart below used for battery tracking but you can also see the atty information, and like I said only had one problem that re-wicking corrected.

View attachment 453732

I did take apart the AFC and tighten the screw. I am using Japanese Organic as well. I am not using the post holes as I've read that's kind of a "no-no" I feel like I'm just having in consistencies with my coils. I don't think in getting them trapped well enough under the screws and I'm getting hot legs. I'm giving it a break for the moment to watch game 7 of the caps game and enjoying my delta 2 in power mode. This mod is fantastic if even only in the power mode. LETS GO CAPS!

 

[dr g]

Kanthal is just fine for those tanks, so long as you don't let the juice get too low or overdrive them.

Well ... that caveat applies to everything technically. Yet in my experience nickel builds last far longer than kanthal. IMO uncontrolled temperatures are significant even if you don't let a coil go completely dry.

 

[Jake67]

Well at least it's not just me haha. I've literally rebuilt the thing 3 times since posting that earlier and nothinnnng is working. More wick, less wick, pancake, can't seem to get it. My head hurts.

I just received the Lemo 2 did a few builds that have worked really well for me. I did 7 wraps 2.5 ID with 28 gauge nickel wire.
Getting 28 gauge to make a solid connection with those tiny screws is a pain in the --s. You need to make sure those screws are really tight. I also lift the coils a bit more off the deck than with Kanthal. Wick as I do my other Lemos. A lot of cotton.!!! Once I wick and trim and place the chimney I tighten those screws again.
I've run about 7 tanks with the Lemo 2 24.5J 380F.
This tank is blowing clouds so thick I can't see the car in front of me on the expressway. AFC 40% open.
Juice consumption is horrible. I will say that I vaped it dry without any dry hits.
I'm sure you'll get it. Good luck trying to keep juice in this sponge of RTA.


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[chia]

I don't know if this will help but I've been building Ni200 coils for 3 or 4 months now and have found that you must make sure there are no hot spots before wicking the coil. To do this, I turn off temp mode (or joules in the SX), set the watts to 6.0, screw on my atty and in a darkened area fire it. You are looking for the faint glow to be in the middle of the coil. I use 6 watts because I don't want the nickel to glow red, just barely glow is what I'm after. If you have a hot leg it will show doing this. If the coil glows at the center of the build you should be good to go.
I can immediately taste any kind of improper coil heating. That's what I find gives that metallic taste.
I hope this helps as it has made a huge difference in my builds on both the SX and DNA40 devices.

Hey thanx for the advice.. Wil try it out for my next build

 

[Mhansel411]

I just received the Lemo 2 did a few builds that have worked really well for me. I did 7 wraps 2.5 ID with 28 gauge nickel wire.
Getting 28 gauge to make a solid connection with those tiny screws is a pain in the --s. You need to make sure those screws are really tight. I also lift the coils a bit more off the deck than with Kanthal. Wick as I do my other Lemos. A lot of cotton.!!! Once I wick and trim and place the chimney I tighten those screws again.
I've run about 7 tanks with the Lemo 2 24.5J 380F.
This tank is blowing clouds so thick I can't see the car in front of me on the expressway. AFC 40% open.
Juice consumption is horrible. I will say that I caped the dry without any dry hits.
I'm sure you'll get it. Good luck trying to keep juice in this sponge of RTA.


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Yeah I believe my issue is making the connection and getting that hot leg. It quite the PITA to get them to say out without backing out and without straight wrapping it 360 degrees around the screw.

 

[Mhansel411]

Hey thanx for the advice.. Wil try it out for my next build

It won't fire in power mode with the build being so low?...which is why I guess the water boarding of the wick is the best way to see where it lights up.

 

[JimScotty0]

jimscotty, what are you set at? I don't understand why I need it so high. perhaps I expect more than it was designed for. I am getting gobs of vapor and flavor though. pleased regardless. I just do not understand what exactly is bad about having it set so high. I hope it is not a safety issue. I did the same thing with the dna40. it is great but lower does not suit me.

some have talked down on the sx, others had nothing but praise. honestly I don't know enough to see a difference anyways. I do know when a chip is dead however, guess which ones. I think they brought forth a pretty darn good effort here. I just want a custom mod with the 350j now.

Nic_fix, it all depends on so many factors related to your build, ejuice, etc. Today I am running at 450F and 22J.

 

[Jake67]

Yeah I believe my issue is making the connection and getting that hot leg. It quite the PITA to get them to say out without backing out and without straight wrapping it 360 degrees around the screw.

Not sure that wrapping around the screw 360 degrees is the best way to build. Seems similar to a micro build with the coils touching.
I trap the wires the same as on Subtank mini.


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[alee132]

??? do you mean 3626.7?
if yes then
elseif no then wow!
endif

Lol dude, you been programming alot lately or what? This brought flashbacks to my coding days at school, were I found out that it was not going to be my line or work because it gave me head aches. I ended up doing PC repair for some time and now back in school to get into the networking administration field.

 

[JimScotty0]

I know this probably seems a bit obvious but have you tried another coil? I had a a pack of 5 of which I have managed to get two to work adequately. Some have had a great experience with these heads but mine has been frustrating at best. The design is just not cut out for TC in my opinion. I now have one on my chiNA40 VF reading 0.14ohms, vaping at 460F at 22.5 watts and it is ok, not great but ok. That is the best I have managed to get so far. I also know that when I take off the tank to refill (nano btw) if I select new coil, the resistance reading will probably change so I have been following the 'rules' and selecting same coil every time. Problem is, that if/when this thing goes bananas like three of the others, I might ending breathing insulator fumes again.... I really hope Knager get this sorted out at some stage.

I should also say that I have not managed to get any sensible resistance reading from any of these on the SX for reasons that remain obscure. Can get anything from 0.12 to 0.25 ohms with the same coil (yes it is always temp equlibrated).

So in short, I think you are tearing your hair out over something that is close to a lost cause. You are not alone. A lot of people have had problems with these things!

My Kanger coils have worked out well for me with the 2 that I have used but they are made to DNA specs and not for Yihi. I did get repeatable resistance values from those 2 coils though.

From everything I have read there are some that had good luck and some that have not such as you have had. If the resistance is jumping all over the place and you have set the calibration as you have stated, it is obvious there is a connection problem and that could be in the Kanger coil build itself which is beyond your control. I know that my RBA builds on the Kanger Subtank Mini have been pretty solid and I am vaping on that now as I write this with good results. I have my Delta II and my Lemo 2 in the ultrasonic bath now and will attempt to build a .07 build.

Do you have an RBA section that you can try in that tank to compare your results?