SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Nic_fix, what it comes down to whatever works for you just like everything else in life, we each have different likes and dislikes and that is all that counts ultimately.
For you Lemo 2 lovers Rip just released a review of the Lemo 2. Leaky leaky leaky leaky juice all over.
I will watch it but I have not had any leaking whatsoever. I do find the filling to be a mess sometimes if I use a glass dropper that doesn't fit inside. I have filled with the air channel open or closed and it doesn't seem to matter either.
For you Lemo 2 lovers Rip just released a review of the Lemo 2. Leaky leaky leaky leaky juice all over.
Oops! Looks like the video has been removed by the user. Get an error on your link and it isn't on Rip's YouTube channel right now.
Lol that was fast he sure did. He claimed every time he filled it it leaked at least half a ml. It was kinda funny he had juice dripping all over his hands / Lemo. Oh well idk why he removed it so fast.
Edit: Maybe his consultation fee came through
Edit: Maybe his consultation fee came through
IDK, he may have realized he did something wrong. It was only up for like 10 min about enough time for me to watch it then link it then it was removed. ????
Just wanted to say sorry for all the mis-info coming from me since I joined. First I posted Efest 3100, that now seem to be wraps (so sorry). Then I posted the 1 Billion link 26hrs early!!! (The woe) It only had 30 seconds on our SX M Class too! Never ever listen to me again... The show was cool though. Some of these guys really are trying hard. Good stuff there.
Anyway, my M Class is still working so well. All my problems were wicking and getting my Kayfun seated well. But I do see a patern with people having different sweet spots for different atty's. Nice of Vlad to post that follow-up from Phil as I was thinking the same thing too. We need a uniformed 510 connection that all the MFGs use. That way we would see better consistancy with all these different setups. Vaping industry pull your fingers out! ...
I have both S and M class and many, many more mods. I also have six authentic kayfun V4s decks. They do not fit my S class. I have to use a subtank beauty ring and the V4 will fit perfect (Only the S Class). Even the M Class I have to unscrew around 2mm from the 510 pin to ensure a good connection. Otherwise my OHMs will be all over the place. I have six decks remember. Everyone is the same. SM sent me some V3 510 pins. They are 1mm longer and fit the V4s. I reccomend these if you can get hold of one. SM may send for free?
Very much looking forward to the next big thing to hit us this year. Very exciting times. Just pull your socks up vaping industry with the 510 pin shinanagons! (Not sure how to spell that).
Sleep time, work fin so me off. Take care and look out for each other ok!
Anyway, my M Class is still working so well. All my problems were wicking and getting my Kayfun seated well. But I do see a patern with people having different sweet spots for different atty's. Nice of Vlad to post that follow-up from Phil as I was thinking the same thing too. We need a uniformed 510 connection that all the MFGs use. That way we would see better consistancy with all these different setups. Vaping industry pull your fingers out! ...
I have both S and M class and many, many more mods. I also have six authentic kayfun V4s decks. They do not fit my S class. I have to use a subtank beauty ring and the V4 will fit perfect (Only the S Class). Even the M Class I have to unscrew around 2mm from the 510 pin to ensure a good connection. Otherwise my OHMs will be all over the place. I have six decks remember. Everyone is the same. SM sent me some V3 510 pins. They are 1mm longer and fit the V4s. I reccomend these if you can get hold of one. SM may send for free?
Very much looking forward to the next big thing to hit us this year. Very exciting times. Just pull your socks up vaping industry with the 510 pin shinanagons! (Not sure how to spell that).
Sleep time, work fin so me off. Take care and look out for each other ok!
Who knows, maybe! lolLol that was fast he sure did. He claimed every time he filled it it leaked at least half a ml. It was kinda funny he had juice dripping all over his hands / Lemo. Oh well idk why he removed it so fast.
Edit: Maybe his consultation fee came through
Whether it's true or not... The line about RIP's consulting fee coming through made me laugh out loud a bit... LoL
I dongt understand what you mean here?? 520 to get to 220?? If you are setting it to 520 and its 'kicking' down to 220f, what is really going on I ask? This is not a normal behaviour for this mod surely. There must be something wrong no?? I have a kanger ni200 head on a dna40 at 450F and 20w and its ok. The thing is bananas on the SX for reasons I dont understand..
Do keep in mind that VG boils around 550F, so if there's juice with VG in your wick, it's going to be damned hard to "burn" anything at 520F. Burnt tasting, yeah, that could happen as the PG in the mix is superheated, but actually burning the wick, not likely. PG boils around 380F.
Also keep in mind your elevation, the higher you go, the lower the boiling point. Doesn't change the temperature of the liquid, just changes the boiling point.
Also keep in mind your elevation, the higher you go, the lower the boiling point. Doesn't change the temperature of the liquid, just changes the boiling point.
I get a slight pulsing sound and feeling as soon as I hit temp. It's always very evident to me when it hits temp because of that. And I've tried about 7 or 8 builds now - all only on an Origen dripper. That's not what you've experienced? Odd
Sure, if the temp is actually reading accurately. It never does for me. I have to have my current build at 520-550 to not hit temp immediately. Maybe you guys have some insight? It seems like you're having more luck than me. This is similar to my DNA 40 experience.
6 wrap 30g reads .054 ohms. I realize that's a little low but I figured less wraps would leave less room for failure. I still have to bump it up to 500-520°F to keep temp from kicking in. I just don't get it. I also tried wicking a little lighter/looser this time because the last build (7 wraps 30g) got screwed up when trying to rewick. Not a single coil is touching. Any ideas?
Pretty sure I wicked too loose because I see a little browning already even though the wick is wet. So speaking of that - how do you wick tight enough but still retain the ability to re-wick?
Your biggest problem is probably airflow. The second problem is probably long legs. The third problem is dual coils.
Airflow shouldn't be an issue. Are you implying I should only use high airflow attys that only will provide a cool vape in order to have any success? Because if I can only have a cool vape I should have given up nickel builds a while ago.
As far as legs go, I've built them as close as possible to the positive post and negative screws. Are you implying hot legs? How do I tell?
As far as legs go, I've built them as close as possible to the positive post and negative screws. Are you implying hot legs? How do I tell?
I've tried singles and didn't have a ton of success with that either. So since I had the same experience I figured it didn't matter too much.
One other question - when I use powerful and powerful+ in kanthal mode it hits hard immediately then backs off after a few seconds like it should. In joules mode with nickel it starts weak, bumps up after a second, then bumps back down after a few seconds. Why would it do that?
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