SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[jwat82]

Still having trouble with the Origen. Working a lot better with a single coil build with 28g on ⅛" bit but it's much cooler than I prefer. I need to figure out dual coils. Have you had success with duals on an Origen? If so, what gauge, wraps, etc?

The guy earlier said temp control sucked on the Marquis. You've restored my hope. What gauge is that build?

Build is 28awg around the 3.5mm rod. I sold my Origen, but when I had it, I didn't have a ton of luck with ni200 on my hana dna40. I've seen some have good luck with ni200 and mesh on the Origen, but that's not my style, so I never tried.

And I must have missed the post disparaging the Marquis and TP. I've had nothing but great results with kanthal or ni200. You trap the positive and negative, so it's a solid connection every time (like the Origen), and as I said, the building rods make it super easy. Each rod has two sizes, the one I use mostly is 3.5 and 4mm. I wrap spaced coils on the 3.5mm side and push them against the lip for the 4mm side and that evens up the wraps, then lock the rod into place in the atty and adjust any spacing that needs it. The only real learning curve I had was the wicking. You have to cut the perfect amount of cotton, where it's wide enough to touch all the wraps when wet, but not so thick you'll disturb the build. BasilRay has a good video on it. But now that I'm practiced, I can get a single coil built, wicked and ready to vape in >10min.

 

[jazzvaper]

I am wondering if I should buy a subtank mini with temp coils and say to hell with building with nickel

Monitoring your posts in this thread, up to this point:

1. My Origen v2 has been converted to bottom feed so I cannot, now, show you.

2. Most of the suggestions you've received (up to this point) have basically been correct.

3. Your wraps look EXCELLENT, but too few.

4. Build a single coil with three (3) more wraps, and, open both air holes.

5. Vape like a madman at 450F and 19W/J, or as high as you can go with good vapor and no TL.

Then you'll have a basis to tinker. BTW I do single or dual coils in my Marquis (plural).


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[PapaPro]

I love my Marquis. It's the only dripper I use. Can't wait to try Ni200 but it will have to wait as I am loving my kayfuns. I would only use a single coil in both temp and watts though. But I did notice I had to double the watts on the Marquis compared to my Kayfun. Interesting stuff.

The next thing we all should be looking forward to is a software update. I wonder what YiHI are working on right now. I bet they come-up with a more efficient power update. It seems our M Class's are a little power hungry. So one would expect that would be first on their list.

I wonder if there are any modes we can ask for? Like changing the display info. YiHi would be so clever to release an API. We could use our phones/Laptops to tweek our Mini's. I would love to tweek the display. Or a simple web based app. Go on YiHi. You know it makes sense

Good stuff

 

[Jbryant705]

Monitoring your posts in this thread, up to this point:

1. My Origen v2 has been converted to bottom feed so I cannot, now, show you.

2. Most of the suggestions you've received (up to this point) have basically been correct.

3. Your wraps look EXCELLENT, but too few.

4. Build a single coil with three (3) more wraps, and, open both air holes.

5. Vape like a madman at 450F and 19W/J, or as high as you can go with good vapor and no TL.

Then you'll have a basis to tinker. BTW I do single or dual coils in my Marquis (plural).


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Both air holes even though it's single coil?? Why?

 

[PapaPro]

Both air holes even though it's single coil?? Why?

Avid Vape said you can get air direct to the coil plus a side impact of air too. That is why both airholes work on a single coil. It's just another thing to try. This info was from a review if I remember correctly

 

[jazzvaper]

Both air holes even though it's single coil?? Why?

Why? Because you're tinkering, trying to learn what works best. You realize you can partially close them, yes?


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[2legsshrt]

Well my second M should be here tomorrow. I really love the vape on this. .08-.09 seems like the sweet spot to me at 410 18J. One thing I was wondering what was the site that had the skins for the IPV. I want to keep checking it because I think they would be crazy not to come out with one for these they are pretty popular. I do think I am going to get a roll of Tempered 28awg 50M and some 26awg 25m just to play around with. I like the way it is easier to wrap with. By the way Busardo came out with a review on the Lemo 2.

 

[dems86]

Well my second M should be here tomorrow. I really love the vape on this. .08-.09 seems like the sweet spot to me at 410 18J. One thing I was wondering what was the site that had the skins for the IPV. I want to keep checking it because I think they would be crazy not to come out with one for these they are pretty popular. I do think I am going to get a roll of Tempered 28awg 50M and some 26awg 25m just to play around with. I like the way it is easier to wrap with. By the way Busardo came out with a review on the Lemo 2.

Are you thinking of J-Wraps when it comes to the skins, or is there another place?

THE WGU CLUB
Card Carrying Member/Co-Founder

 

[2legsshrt]

Are you thinking of J-Wraps when it comes to the skins, or is there another place?

THE WGU CLUB
Card Carrying Member/Co-Founder

No someone on here a while back showed how he customized a skin for the IPV so it would fit the SX. Don't feel like going back 25 pages to find it.

 

[Jbryant705]

Why? Because you're tinkering, trying to learn what works best. You realize you can partially close them, yes?


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I can partially close both sides at a time or one side by itself. Airflow hitting the side where there is no coil would make my vape way cooler than I like.

I guess my point is, why should I be pursuing temp control with a vape I don't enjoy? I've tried single coil numerous types and it never gives me the satisfying slightly warm vape that I like. And to add even more airflow to make the vape cold doesn't make any sense. Not to mention airflow from the other side would reduce flavor. I did just try that though and the results were as I expected. Cold, lacking flavor, etc.

 

[Shel]

Cool! What resistance reading you getting on the SX and what temp and J setting you using??

The resistance I'm getting is .13. I have it set to 475F, and 36.0J. I had Powerful turned on, now I've turned it off, not sure if the modes work properly in Joules settiing.

I'm getting VERY flavorful vapor, really like a dripper! Great vapor production as well... perhaps not quite as much vapor as with Kanthal, but the flavor is much richer, even slightly moist... if the coils last, this is a fantastic combination!

By the way, my battery life (after only having used a single battery so far) seems to duplicate what I was getting with Kanthal, set at 26W... not sure why that is. I would have figured battery life would go down, using 36J compared to 26W.

 

[Vlad1]

No someone on here a while back showed how he customized a skin for the IPV so it would fit the SX. Don't feel like going back 25 pages to find it.

I think what your talking about there was a link to an Ebay seller that was selling silicone IPV cases that he modified a bit.

 

[2legsshrt]

The resistance I'm getting is .13. I have it set to 475F, and 36.0J. I had Powerful turned on, now I've turned it off, not sure if the modes work properly in Joules settiing.

I'm getting VERY flavorful vapor, really like a dripper! Great vapor production as well... perhaps not quite as much vapor as with Kanthal, but the flavor is much richer, even slightly moist... if the coils last, this is a fantastic combination!

By the way, my battery life (after only having used a single battery so far) seems to duplicate what I was getting with Kanthal, set at 26W... not sure why that is. I would have figured battery life would go down, using 36J compared to 26W.

I like the soft myself. With the Kanger air flow wide open you can hear it kick into your setting and so far have had really good luck with the way my coils work with it. Sometimes I will use the standard mode but those are the only 2 that I use.

 

[Vlad1]

The resistance I'm getting is .13. I have it set to 475F, and 36.0J. I had Powerful turned on, now I've turned it off, not sure if the modes work properly in Joules settiing.

I'm getting VERY flavorful vapor, really like a dripper! Great vapor production as well... perhaps not quite as much vapor as with Kanthal, but the flavor is much richer, even slightly moist... if the coils last, this is a fantastic combination!

By the way, my battery life (after only having used a single battery so far) seems to duplicate what I was getting with Kanthal, set at 26W... not sure why that is. I would have figured battery life would go down, using 36J compared to 26W.

Refer to post [HASHTAG]#2648[/HASHTAG] I talked about that and still waiting on a reply. SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL) | Page 133 | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[Croak]

I can partially close both sides at a time or one side by itself. Airflow hitting the side where there is no coil would make my vape way cooler than I like.

I guess my point is, why should I be pursuing temp control with a vape I don't enjoy? I've tried single coil numerous types and it never gives me the satisfying slightly warm vape that I like. And to add even more airflow to make the vape cold doesn't make any sense. Not to mention airflow from the other side would reduce flavor. I did just try that though and the results were as I expected. Cold, lacking flavor, etc.

The problem you are most likely having is not that the vape is too cool, it's that your temperature reading is INCORRECT. One side or portion of the coil, as mentioned before, is getting much hotter than the rest, and spiking resistance so the mod thinks it's running hotter overall. But that portion of the coil that's running hotter isn't actually heating up much juice, so what vapor you do get is cool and thin. Fix the airflow issue if the atty allows it, and you might be surprised at how warm it can still be wide open. Or as a band-aid, crank temps up much higher, but run the risk of burning juice or wick in the hot spot.

With a Kanthal build in Power mode, this is no big deal, the mod will keep throwing steady power to the coil, so the rest of the coil catches up with the hotter portion fairly quickly.

As for the Marquis and single coil, yes, you can offset the airflow on the top cap so that instead of it being lined up with the holes bored through the deck, you have it lined up so that one hole is at about 9 o'clock and one is lined up with the airflow hole for the coil (or 3 o'clock depending on what side you decide to build on) . That brings air in front/side of the coil as well as the rear, but it's still problematic, and you're also setting yourself up for leakage, and the offset hole can only be run wide open. And it does nothing to address the problem with the abnormally long legs you have to run on the Marquis and the resulting inaccurate temp readings.

Finally, this has been said before but it bears repeating. Don't get hung up on a temperature number. Just don't do it. There's no magic Gandalf "You shall not pass" number here, since it's all ballpark anyway. If you're getting an unsatisfactory vape at 410, or 450, or whatever, crank the temp and joules up or down until it's better. And I'll say this again too, not all atomizers are going to work well with TC builds no matter what you do.

 

[Mhansel411]

So finally getting a build to work was yet another fluke. I cannot seem to get a build to work without getting crazy hot spots. I don't know what to do at this point. It's frustrating because it provides such a good vape for me until it Starts getting jumpy with the temp etc. so as of now I'm back to using my Delta 2 in power mode (which is great in its own right) any suggestions for building with NI200 to eliminate hot spots?

 

[Vlad1]

So finally getting a build to work was yet another fluke. I cannot seem to get a build to work without getting crazy hot spots. I don't know what to do at this point. It's frustrating because it provides such a good vape for me until it Starts getting jumpy with the temp etc. so as of now I'm back to using my Delta 2 in power mode (which is great in its own right) any suggestions for building with NI200 to eliminate hot spots?

Still having problems... I feel for you. I'd be extremely frustrated if I were you. I was expecting problems building ni200 but I guess I've been very lucky so far because I have had none on the Subtank mini. Were you ever able to upload pics of your builds?

 

[Mhansel411]

No, but I will when I attempt again. I've been spending the past week building and tearing down. Gonna catch up on comics before attempting again probably tomorrow morning

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Or as a band-aid, crank temps up much higher, but run the risk of burning juice or wick in the hot spot.


Finally, this has been said before but it bears repeating. Don't get hung up on a temperature number. Just don't do it. There's no magic Gandalf "You shall not pass" number here, since it's all ballpark anyway. If you're getting an unsatisfactory vape at 410, or 450, or whatever, crank the temp and joules up or down until it's better. And I'll say this again too, not all atomizers are going to work well with TC builds no matter what you do.

I think these two points sum up a lot of the frustration with tp vaping since both are true! Without dry burning it is a pita to assess the presence of hotspots/legs etc. If you don't and problems ensue then there is always the possibility juice is being overheated etc as temp is increased to get a decent vape! Rocks and hard places.

So I think there is a real chance that these issues will turn a lot of people off tp before it really gets off the ground. That is a shame but the fact is that to get it to work often does require some thought and some fiddling around. It's not a plud-and-play activity yet!

 

[nic_fix]

that is if you can get the battery out first. I found the perfect thing. a 1879 gold dollar! I hope you get the irony. need some Chinese coinage. don't worry, the flask is double the trouble and does not run much longer.

temp works fine if you guys break down and get the kanger coils. I know that is like against the law here but at least it works no problem. they are as good as but the most esoteric builds. probably last longer too. I am not praising them I am just saying why the hassle.