SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[tchavei]

I think running water would disipate the heat too quickly. Maybe saturate your wick with water? Earlier in this thread there was some discussion on water testing.
Dirk

I edited my post after realizing what I was suggesting. Yes, soak the wick in water and fire it afterwards. Not directly under running water.

I've never done the water/212 degree test, on either device.

Seems "OCD" to me.

And, I don't believe in "OCD". For me that is one on many fictions, created to make some "analyst" feel smarter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, you're right. Better to keep vaping at 280F and adjust joules so you don't get dry hits...

/end sarcasm

Now seriously, I'm not saying you should do it but come on, how many screwed up reports have we read here during last week about impossible temperatures, resistances and low joule compensations? Wouldn't those troubled people benefit from such a simple test if it works on a good setup?



Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[jazzvaper]

^^^ Yes indeed, the troubled people should. Fortunately I have not (yet) been troubled.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tchavei]

^^^ Yes indeed, the troubled people should. Fortunately I have not (yet) been troubled.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So... All we need is a Guinea pig with a good setup do the water test and report back if the test worked so 'troubled people' can reproduce it and use it as a guide to assess their build before wasting precious eLiquid and get frustrated by having to empty their tanks over and over until they nail it

Anyone wants to give it a shot?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Vlad1]

So... All we need is a Guinea pig with a good setup do the water test and report back if the test worked so 'troubled people' can reproduce it and use it as a guide to assess their build before wasting precious eLiquid and get frustrated by having to empty their tanks over and over until they nail it

Anyone wants to give it a shot?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I think Dam718 described this process way earlier in the thread when he was having problems with 30g single strand. To tired / lazy to find it atm but relatively certain it's already here.

 

[tchavei]

I think Dam718 described this process way earlier in the thread when he was having problems with 30g single strand. To tired / lazy to find it atm but relatively certain it's already here.

I'm lazy too and it's 3 am here. Did the test work?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Yozhik]

Guys, pretend I'm 5 years old and explain me this please:

Knowing that:

1) Temperature Protection should be the ability to limit the build's temperature to a certain pre defined value

2) The pre set power setting should only influence the amount of time it takes for the mod to reach the temperature defined in #1

Then how come, in the last few days, I've been reading on this thread that X amount of Joules gives a hot vape or if you're getting a dry hit, reduce the power?

Isn't it supposed the mod handling all this?

I'm really confused. If one sets 300F, how can you burn a wick if cotton burns at 440F?

I'd explain it this way: The SX Mini Joule TC is time-based. During each interval of time, a certain amount of power can be applied or not applied, depending on what the algorithm determines. Generally speaking, the Joules setting determines the amount of power that will be applied for each interval. If it's too much power, the stability of the TC algorithm will likely decrease, which leads to a lack of precision in the temperature maintained. As a way of analogy, think about cruise control for a manual transmission car. You can select the gear, and the car will attempt to maintain speed with that gear. Choose the right gear and it works great. Choose the wrong gear though and cruise control won't work as well (e.g., imagine you're in 5th gear going slow and you hit a hill, it will take a lot longer to get back up to speed).

Now, there's a separate issue I've discussed before, which is that if the non-nickel connection is substantial, that will throw off TC. The reason is that non-nickel resistance is assumed to nickel by the device, so it will fire the coil much hotter than it should. That's why you so people with Kayfuns, for example, having to operate them at 280F or so. The problem is in the connections of that atomizer, not the device.

 

[Vlad1]

I'm lazy too and it's 3 am here. Did the test work?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

As I recall it did. He was having problem identifying hot spots and although I don't recall the specifics of the post it seems he was able to identify the problem quickly with a hot leg once he did the water test.

 

[jazzvaper]

^^^ Technonut posted the test at [HASHTAG]#600[/HASHTAG] of this thread. (not sure how to link to it)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Gulliverfoyle]

That makes sense.

Wouldn't the standard running water test be a great reliable way of making sure the atty is well paired with the sx?

Like:

1) build coil and wick it temporarily with a strand of cotton or rayon

2) set a temperature of 300 or 400F and power to something like 20 or 30 joules

3) wait for both atty and mod be at the same temperature and pair them together

4) put the atty sideways with just the coil/wick under running water, remove it and fire the mod right away (wick still soaked in water)

If calibration, connection and build were successful, the temperature should show something around 212F. If values differ a lot, something is wrong.

After a successful test, dry atty, replace wick and set preferred temperature, joules and vape away?

This works on a dna 40. Shouldn't it work on the sx? I don't have one yet or I would test it myself.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I have been a lurker in this thread from the beginning, and it's time I chimed in. The water test works.

My first build for the SX Mini M was a .23 ni build on a Lemo 1. Recipe for disaster right? Wicked it with Japanese cotton, soaked the cotton with water, Joules set to 30, temp set to 400, and it happily bounced around near 212 degrees. Another build for another SX M class, rebuilt STM head, not build deck, built to .18, another recipe for disaster right? Soaked a sacrificial wick in water, same joules and temp, and it still bounced around 212 with no complaints. Have since moved onto different build in the Lemo, twisted 30 guage .16 and the flavor is great and it throws plenty of vapor.

Don't believe me? Try it yourself. I have had nothing but success so far with my 2 Minis.

 

[Yozhik]

I am seriously considering the Mini, but I am questioning the accuracy. I read about so many people vaping at real low temperatures. I just saw a Busardo video and he was vaping at 280°.

pbusardo admitted in his post-review followup that the problem was with his atomizer having a substantial non-nickel resistance in the connection element of his atomizer, not with the device. Even pbusardo makes mistakes.

 

[Vlad1]

I'm lazy too and it's 3 am here. Did the test work?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I think this is the post I was recalling.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL) | Page 132 | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[Vlad1]

^^^ Technonut posted the test at [HASHTAG]#600[/HASHTAG] of this thread. (not sure how to link to it)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can hover over the post #, in Chrome right click it and select "Copy Link Address" That's what I do anyway. If your using a different browser IDK what it would say.

 

[jazzvaper]

You can hover over the post #, in Chrome right click it and select "Copy Link Address" That's what I do anyway. If your using a different browser IDK what it would say.

I'm either on Firefox (PC/MAC) or Safari (iPad/iPhone). On Firefox there is a dagger next to the name of the poster. So, the proper link to Technonut's post is: SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL) | Page 30 | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[tchavei]

I'd explain it this way: The SX Mini Joule TC is time-based. During each interval of time, a certain amount of power can be applied or not applied, depending on what the algorithm determines. Generally speaking, the Joules setting determines the amount of power that will be applied for each interval. If it's too much power, the stability of the TC algorithm will likely decrease, which leads to a lack of precision in the temperature maintained. As a way of analogy, think about cruise control for a manual transmission car. You can select the gear, and the car will attempt to maintain speed with that gear. Choose the right gear and it works great. Choose the wrong gear though and cruise control won't work as well (e.g., imagine you're in 5th gear going slow and you hit a hill, it will take a lot longer to get back up to speed).

Now, there's a separate issue I've discussed before, which is that if the non-nickel connection is substantial, that will throw off TC. The reason is that non-nickel resistance is assumed to nickel by the device, so it will fire the coil much hotter than it should. That's why you so people with Kayfuns, for example, having to operate them at 280F or so. The problem is in the connections of that atomizer, not the device.

So, resuming...

- selected joules level must accomplish reaching the selected temperature in a useful time

- build must be accurate with as low 'foreign' resistance as possible

- matting of both atty and mod must be performed accurately


So now another naive question:

The higher the base resistance, the lower the impact of a small resistance variation. This is physics 101 I suppose.

If a 20 pound kid gains 2 pounds, that's a 10% increase in body weight. If a 200 pound man gains the same 2 pounds, it's only a 1% increase in body weight.

On the dna, I noticed with a 0.10 ohm build that I can notice if it shifts to 0.11 but I can't notice when a 0.32 ohm build shifts to 0.33 which makes sense since the change in the first case scenario is 10% and in the second case, only 3%

Now yihi and most people on this thread say that 0.065 Ohms is the magic number for the sx350j. I don't doubt that. However, isn't such a low number not also a factor of potential instability? I mean, all it takes is a 0.006 ohm shift to represent a 10% overall impact in coil resistance? 0.006 is almost nothing. That's such a low value that it might change depending on how you look at your build.

What is more detrimental to vape performance? Follow Yihi's recommendation and live with 10/20% resistance shifts (that might not even be displayed) or build higher resistance setups that are probably less accurate by what people say but whose resistance shifts are far less than 5%?

Thx

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[tchavei]

I'm either on Firefox (PC/MAC) or Safari (iPad/iPhone). On Firefox there is a dagger next to the name of the poster. So, the proper link to Technonut's post is: SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL) | Page 30 | E-Cigarette Forum

According to technonut, the test works then. That's great. I guess the first thing a 'troubled' user should do then, is to check his build with the water test to rule out build / atty issues.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[Vlad1]

According to technonut, the test works then. That's great. I guess the first thing a 'troubled' user should do then, is to check his build with the water test to rule out build / atty issues.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Not necessarily, some have received / purchased Nichrome instead of Ni200. If your wanting to put a step by step troubleshooting guide together probably should start at the basics.

 

[jazzvaper]

^^^^ With the significant EXCEPTION that there is no "refinement" on the SXMini. Thus no change is to be expected, meaning none that the device responds to...AUTOMATICALLY.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tchavei]

Not necessarily, some have received / purchased Nichrome instead of Ni200. If your wanting to put a step by step troubleshooting guide together probably should start at the basics.

I'm just trying to understand how the sx mini m works and get a correct idea of what's going on with all these reports. Anyone stumbling across this thread without analysing every post might get the impression the mod might not be that accurate as advertised. I've been reading this thread since the beginning and yet I got confused about what was happening lately.

It would be presumptuous on my part as a non sx mini m owner trying to write a step by step troubleshooting guide for the true legit owners

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[JimScotty0]

My mini is about to go back. I was gonna wait for a new black one but now it is refund time. I find I enjoy the other brand that starts with "E" better. I get dry hits like heck at 30 joules and 430 with no vapor production on a .25 nickel build. 50 joules it gets super nasty and at 40 as well. If I turn the temp down it is muted.

.25 is pretty high for a nickel build. What type of coil are you building?

 

[scottwess]

Lmao. I want to buy the lemo 2 so bad but have read so many mixed reviews on it. I have been on the fence about this decision for 3 weeks and can't seem to pull the trigger. I keep reading the flavor is muted, and there is too much going on between the center pin and the coil so the nickel builds suck.

Just annoyed cuz I read so many good reviews for the lemo 2, then read so many negative reviews of people wanting to like the lemo 2 so bad but cant.

I drilled out everything on my lemo 1 so I already have much more airflow than stock, and the nickel builds are amazing.

I am currently running two Lemo 2 tanks. One on vs rdna other is on sx mini m. Both set at 350 temp 25 watts on a .09 - .1 nickel build. Both devices work flawlessly and flavor is great. Not Hugh clouds but good flavor and good temp control. However....the sx mini is much smoother power and more refined. But Lemo2 is a good tank. Having said this, I still prefer the sub tank. Lemo just doesn't hold enough juice.