TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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I did that on all of the ST+'s that we used back in the day. I used a dremel and shaved off both corners. Those were on the original V1 decks so I had to dremel out the indent in the base as well for a bit more flow.
A tale of strangled wicking....
While rebuilding a TFV4 single RBA I decided to 'go out on the edge' and use some 24AWG NiFe48 I recently got @3mm ID. Since I also got some 3mm "Elkwood" wick at the same time I thought I'd give it a try.
On the TFV4 RBA's I normally cut the wick off at the "gutter" and usually get decent wicking and vape however for some reason I went ahead and screwed the cap on all the way and THEN trimmed it off. (the wick does not have much "give" as the rope has threads INSIDE where it would normally be hollow)
I primed it up and filled the tank and for a while
was rather impressed with what I had just assembled. The key word here is "while". It was not long before I was getting "lame vape syndrome" and pushing the temperature up in attempts to compensate.
Then it dawned on me...
the force needed to push+screw the cap on the atomizer ought to have been a sure sign that the wick was larger than the juice channels. 
After draining the tank and trimming the wick I confirmed my theory - it was improper wicking.
Moral of story?
While surely there is vaping performance differences between damp, wet, saturated and dripping, I doubt that I'm the only one who's wickicking job created "lame vape syndrome"
While rebuilding a TFV4 single RBA I decided to 'go out on the edge' and use some 24AWG NiFe48 I recently got @3mm ID. Since I also got some 3mm "Elkwood" wick at the same time I thought I'd give it a try.
On the TFV4 RBA's I normally cut the wick off at the "gutter" and usually get decent wicking and vape however for some reason I went ahead and screwed the cap on all the way and THEN trimmed it off. (the wick does not have much "give" as the rope has threads INSIDE where it would normally be hollow)
I primed it up and filled the tank and for a while
was rather impressed with what I had just assembled. The key word here is "while". It was not long before I was getting "lame vape syndrome" and pushing the temperature up in attempts to compensate. Then it dawned on me...
the force needed to push+screw the cap on the atomizer ought to have been a sure sign that the wick was larger than the juice channels. After draining the tank and trimming the wick I confirmed my theory - it was improper wicking.
Moral of story?
While surely there is vaping performance differences between damp, wet, saturated and dripping, I doubt that I'm the only one who's wickicking job created "lame vape syndrome"
@GeorgeS you are certainly not alone! lol I think it is more common than we would like to admit.A tale of strangled wicking....
While rebuilding a TFV4 single RBA I decided to 'go out on the edge' and use some 24AWG NiFe48 I recently got @3mm ID. Since I also got some 3mm "Elkwood" wick at the same time I thought I'd give it a try.
On the TFV4 RBA's I normally cut the wick off at the "gutter" and usually get decent wicking and vape however for some reason I went ahead and screwed the cap on all the way and THEN trimmed it off. (the wick does not have much "give" as the rope has threads INSIDE where it would normally be hollow)
I primed it up and filled the tank and for a while
Then it dawned on me...
After draining the tank and trimming the wick I confirmed my theory - it was improper wicking.
Moral of story?
While surely there is vaping performance differences between damp, wet, saturated and dripping, I doubt that I'm the only one who's wickicking job created "lame vape syndrome"
Just sittin here bored tonight and decided to break out my spool of 317L wire to experiment some more. I think I have finally gotten it where I can get a stable cold resistance in my Crius. Now it is giving a satisfying and accurate vape.
317L dual coil: 26 ga, 2.5mm, 8 wraps with a cold resistance of 0.273Ω. Running it in an OBS Crius at 30W (70W punch) and 450°F (232°C) on the DNA-200.
I chose 30W because that is the power that ramps me up to 450F smoothly and doesn't hit the temp limit until 3 or 4 seconds into the puff. I prefer this over using more power and having it hit temp limit early and then zig-zagging all over the place.
EDIT: Using the default steam-engine 317L .csv file.
Device Monitor:
317L dual coil: 26 ga, 2.5mm, 8 wraps with a cold resistance of 0.273Ω. Running it in an OBS Crius at 30W (70W punch) and 450°F (232°C) on the DNA-200.
I chose 30W because that is the power that ramps me up to 450F smoothly and doesn't hit the temp limit until 3 or 4 seconds into the puff. I prefer this over using more power and having it hit temp limit early and then zig-zagging all over the place.
EDIT: Using the default steam-engine 317L .csv file.
Device Monitor:
Here's my latest build, NiFe48, dual, Aromamizer
60 watts preheat
One question: On the bottom left of device monitor, there is a temperature setting for the last puff. Is this an average temp over the duration of the puff? I assume so because it always reads quite a bit lower than the max set temp.
A slow Saturday night so here is my Mutation MT running with 55W with a 120W preheat on dual 24ga Ti, 7 wraps on 6-32 screw with rayon wicking.
My understanding is that it is the average temperature of the entire last puff. There is also the mean and the standard deviation of the last puff.
Gents, I am running my herakles plus with 316L coil on efusion and I have a feeling that with SE csv, it is still a bit bumpy and I have a feeling that the vape is not that consistent, is there anybody with same experience?
Is this a stock Herakles coil? (I don't know much about the Harakles, does it have an RBA?).
yes, stock SS coil for Herakles plus
and as far as I know, there is no RBA yet
Hi All,
For a couple of weeks now (since my DNA 200 died and got sent back to VaporShark) I have been running (all my tanks) with 7 wraps on 3mm of 28Gauge stainless 430 on my old DNA 40. My coils ohm out at around 0.8 and I've been getting a great quasi TC vape at about 200F to 210F.
Just wanted to share and see if anybody else had tried TC with stainless on a DNA 40.
So, thoughts...
For a couple of weeks now (since my DNA 200 died and got sent back to VaporShark) I have been running (all my tanks) with 7 wraps on 3mm of 28Gauge stainless 430 on my old DNA 40. My coils ohm out at around 0.8 and I've been getting a great quasi TC vape at about 200F to 210F.
Just wanted to share and see if anybody else had tried TC with stainless on a DNA 40.
So, thoughts...
I've tried, and it works decently, but it was too inconsistent for my taste. Sometimes would actually be good, if a little warm, other times it would go well beyond what I was looking for and just never temp limit
@Kraken_Up Apart from dropping out of TC a couple of times, the overall consistency of my setup is what has kept me from going back to NI200 (on the DNA 40 anyway).
Hmm, are you using contact or spaced coils? I'd like to put SS430 on my DNA40s as opposed to Ni200 or Ti if I could get it to be a little more reliable.
@Kraken_Up, I wind all my coils as micro's and dry burn them. After dry burning they tend to end up minimal spaced. 430 is very springy to work with, but I suspect that works in its favor. I don't anneal the wire before coiling it.
The other day I wrapped three coils for three different tanks and all of them came out to 0.72Ohms and perform just great in TC mode on my DNA 40.
From my own experience and what I've read here, I think dry burning is essential for SS wires to work well with TC. Also I did try pre-annealing once, it did make the build easier but the resulting vape experience was kinda flaky.
The other day I wrapped three coils for three different tanks and all of them came out to 0.72Ohms and perform just great in TC mode on my DNA 40.
From my own experience and what I've read here, I think dry burning is essential for SS wires to work well with TC. Also I did try pre-annealing once, it did make the build easier but the resulting vape experience was kinda flaky.
Hi Guys
Want to try some Resistherm with my Dicodes
Anywhere selling 24awg or 26awg
Want to try some Resistherm with my Dicodes
Anywhere selling 24awg or 26awg
Id go straight for NiFe48 (Zivipf in germany) or try the NiFe30 from Stealthvape Uk. The dicodes Resistherm wire (which is, I think should really be called NiFe70) has a lower tcr than Ti and is bloody expensive...
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