I saw a chart somewhere and it said stainless steel 316L and 317L was optimum at the TCR value of 92. Obviously the chart OR this joyetech device is wrong. Most likely the device because couple youtube vids showed that this device in particular was inaccurate and ran a little hotter than what the display said and burnt the cotton. Hopefully they'll fix this in the next firmware update. Can't beat the $40 spent on this. Going back to the normal SS316 mode at 380º @ 35W. Seems to be chucking and tasting like Kanthal.
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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The TCR value of .00094 is correct for 317L. Grade 316 (and 316L) has a TCR of .00088. Grade 304 has a TCR of .001016. This is according to steam-engine who got the data from this old scientific paper from Purdue University which was published in 1977. So if you see different results, it means one of two things:
1) Your wire is not 316/317 as advertised
2) The mod is inaccurate.
I have seen #1 in practice myself with the Joyetech "SS 316" coil heads. They aren't really 316.
1) Your wire is not 316/317 as advertised
2) The mod is inaccurate.
I have seen #1 in practice myself with the Joyetech "SS 316" coil heads. They aren't really 316.
This must be wrong?
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According to the paper I linked it is slightly wrong. 316L is .000879 and 317L is .00094.
And the UD wire should be legit from what I can tell.
It is
317: 0.000875
316: 0.000915
304: 0.00105
430: 0.00138
410: 0.00155
All but 410 has been independently verified.
317 has the lowest TCR (least accurate) value of the widely used SS wires.
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Put a 317 coil on a dripper with dry cotton and set the TCR to 94 @ 420F and it will ignite the cotton.
Try TCR of 88 and you should get a much more accurate TC vape with 317L.
Try TCR of 88 and you should get a much more accurate TC vape with 317L.
Sorry. I was unclear. Have we found a source to purchase SS 410 wire in less than 50 lb. spools?
Search "410" and "balazsk" in response to my question:
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
Nifethal 52 has only a slightly lower TCR and meets all of my needs.
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Ok after much futzing around last night I've come to the following conclusion:
I tried the tank (outfitted with each wire type) on both an Evic Mini and SXminiM with the proper TCR value and locked resistance and ether I was getting burnt wick at 400F or a lame vape. At first I thought that the Germans had sent me the wrong wire type so I wrapped up a NiFe70/30 on a Kanger Subtank and Subtank Mini and both are working as expected.
Odd the resistances were fairly close to what SE predicted. I really like the full size TSV4's (have 3 in service) so something must be afoot on my lone mini.
(sigh)
- my TSV4 mini RBA does not like: SS430, NiFe 52/48 or NiFe 70/30.
I tried the tank (outfitted with each wire type) on both an Evic Mini and SXminiM with the proper TCR value and locked resistance and ether I was getting burnt wick at 400F or a lame vape. At first I thought that the Germans had sent me the wrong wire type so I wrapped up a NiFe70/30 on a Kanger Subtank and Subtank Mini and both are working as expected.
Odd the resistances were fairly close to what SE predicted. I really like the full size TSV4's (have 3 in service) so something must be afoot on my lone mini.
(sigh)
I'd be wondering about that particular TSV4's suitability for tc. Something's loosy goosy in there or making less than optimal contact maybe. Gonna say, it's not the wire or the mods.
Oddly it works fine with a Ti01 build. I keep a few tanks built with Ti/Ni to use on my non-TCR adjustable mods. I guess the TFV4-Mini will be left on a backup mod. (sigh)
(I don't know why I keep replacing the "F" with an "S", they are not even close on the keyboard!)
I have removed the clapton and replaced it with this NiFe 26 gauge coil in my Kanger ST v2 RBA head.
It is 3.5 mm ID. It doesn't matter with this coil but with more wraps two bends are required on each leg usually, here's what I did to cut it down to one bend per leg (red arrow)
I clipped that little piece of leg after photo was taken.
It is 3.5 mm ID. It doesn't matter with this coil but with more wraps two bends are required on each leg usually, here's what I did to cut it down to one bend per leg (red arrow)
I clipped that little piece of leg after photo was taken.
did ya hand file the inner corners a lil? maybe i should do that too. i hate when the legs are smashed into the coil when i have too many wraps.I have removed the clapton and replaced it with this NiFe 26 gauge coil in my Kanger ST v2 RBA head.
It is 3.5 mm ID. It doesn't matter with this coil but with more wraps two bends are required on each leg usually, here's what I did to cut it down to one bend per leg (red arrow)
I clipped that little piece of leg after photo was taken.
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