TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance

[tchavei]

I rather vape on well known Ti with no over burning to avoid TiO2 (although proof that it can be harmful still remains to show up) than something that releases something black of unknown composition :/

Rant off

Did you try to clean / scrub a piece of wire thoroughly with alcohol (before dry burning)? It's possible that the "Virgin" wire has some invisible residues on it that become black after dry burning?

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[GeorgeS]

Odd. I dry burn all my coils until they are very red hot and never noticed any black crud remaining on the coil when finished. (usually a dull grey color is all that is left)

If you have crud on your coils I suspect you did not burn them hot enough.

 

[DrOrpheus]

I rather vape on well known Ti with no over burning to avoid TiO2 (although proof that it can be harmful still remains to show up) than something that releases something black of unknown composition :/

Rant off

Did you try to clean / scrub a piece of wire thoroughly with alcohol (before dry burning)? It's possible that the "Virgin" wire has some invisible residues on it that become black after dry burning?

Enviado do meu GT-I9195 através de Tapatalk

Yes, with a rag and 99% stuff (isopropanol).

 

[DrOrpheus]

Odd. I dry burn all my coils until they are very red hot and never noticed any black crud remaining on the coil when finished. (usually a dull grey color is all that is left)

If you have crud on your coils I suspect you did not burn them hot enough.

That doesn't sound good if you have to burn off this .... lol. And no red glow dry burning at all is preferable for me anyway.
Again, I performed the same things I did for new Kanthal and SS wires, and they didn't give me this dark glaze.

 

[LPearce7]

I've just started building Fused Claptons with SS316L as the core and Kanthal A-1 as the wrap. (36g Kanthal on 26/26g SS316L or 40g Kanthal on 28/28g SS316L).

I've been using the csv. for SS316L (and sometime SS304) on my Reuleaux DNA200. On my other temp control mods (Vapor Flask Classic & Reuleaux RX200) I was using the pre-set SS temp setting which is SS316L, i believe. But on both of those you can add the TCR. My question is what should the TCR be for a Fused Clapton with 316L SS core and Kanthal A-1 wrap? Should it be different than the regular 316L SS?

On my Reuleaux RX200 & Vapor Flask Classic, I've set the TCR between 98-107. Right now I have it on 104 and really like it there. Just wondering how much the Kanthal mixed with the 316L SS affects the TCR.

BTW, the attys I'm using are the Smok RTA-G2, Griffin RTA, Gemini and about to add the Smok TFRDTA on my Reuleaux DNA200 (I'm excited about the Smok TFRDTA, should be here in the next day or so)

 

[LPearce7]

Also, is the best setting for the 316L SS coils with Nickel leads/legs 304SS? Or is there a more accurate TCR?

I'm referring to the new Notch Coil (Wismec) and the Uwell Crown SS 0.25Ω coil.

 

[GeorgeS]

Nife52/48 30AWG Flat wire

Just got a spool of this in and have been trying some builds with it. This stuff is as delicate as Ni but with the same number of windings has 2-3x the wick coverage (since it is flat), very easy to wind by hand.

I dropped a 0.8ohm 2.5mm single coil build into a TFV4 and was liking the vape so much I grabbed one of my dual coil RTA's and made up 2x3.5mm 9-10 wrap build. (I pulled a 29AWG build to put the flat wire in)

On the TFV4 I just wound the wire around the screw and was careful on tightening them. The Velocity deck on the RTA I had to be EXTRA careful not to cut the wire off.

I'm currently liking this flat wire. Low energy and lots of vapor. Once you get over how fragile the stuff is the wick coverage is amazing.

 

[DrOrpheus]

So, anyone? Did someone else try to dry burn new Nife 48 coil, and scrape it with a screwdriver. I tried it straight from the spool, without cleaning, and there is the same film, and after I scrape some off, and dry burn again, there is actually a new layer. Did I get two duds, or it's generally how it acts?
Because if so, I don't know how safe it is to at least dry burn it, at most - vape. What's the reasoning behind the claim that it's safe?

 

[f1vefour]

So, anyone? Did someone else try to dry burn new Nife 48 coil, and scrape it with a screwdriver. I tried it straight from the spool, without cleaning, and there is the same film, and after I scrape some off, and dry burn again, there is actually a new layer. Did I get two duds, or it's generally how it acts?
Because if so, I don't know how safe it is to at least dry burn it, at most - vape. What's the reasoning behind the claim that it's safe?

Could you take a picture of that?

 

[DrOrpheus]

Could you take a picture of that?

Erm, on a previous page

 

[f1vefour]

Erm, on a previous page

I looked 60 posts back.

 

[f1vefour]

I looked 60 posts back.

I found it, it looks like this

 

[DrOrpheus]

 

[DrOrpheus]

Strange, imgur photo shows up for me right on the page. On mobile too, maybe change browser.

 

[f1vefour]

Strange, imgur photo shows up for me right on the page. On mobile too, maybe change browser.

Those black flecks came from the wire?

View attachment 551253

 

[GeorgeS]

So ok, I like using NiFe, mostly use 48 but sometimes use 70 and had some extra time on my hands. Here's the makings of a test jig:

Nife48 and a Kanger Subtank RBA deck.

Here we are all wound up and almost ready to test:

When I say I "dry burn" my coils - I BURN my coils nice and red hot!

Now THAT is a good dry burn. It takes a little special effort to hold the fire button on a mod on one hand while the other hand attempts to get not only the auto focus on an iPhone to function but to snap a frame of the event.

Here's what the wire ought to look like afterwards. All my NiFe coils look similar to this - dark dull grey color:

While it seems almost black, it truely is just dark grey. I tried doing some scraping with a knife as well as the edge of my Stainless tweezers and the only effect was to add a bit of "shine" to the dark grey.

Here's both the recently dry burned NiFe48 coil next to a 'virgin' one on a 3mm mandrel to compare:

While after a few days, weeks or months of use ALL my coils will have some hard back crusty gunk on them, the gunk is from my juice and not from the wire itself.

I was unable to reproduce the issue that was mentioned. (if I had I would of gotten out the EF100mm macro and the real camera to capture whatever in all its glory!)

g.

 

[jazzvaper]

@GeorgeS I think you are overheating your coils.

I have been using NiFe 52/48 since (well, forever) since it was first available. More than once I have suggested that the "dry-burn" methods we used with Kanthal A1 are too much for NiFe. I have never seen the dark color of your 4th and 5th photos.

Instead I suggest pulsing...just to the point of orange color. Timewise, it usually takes about (tick-tock) several minutes to get to the ideal color. I also insert a precision screwdiver (especially for dualies) to make sure the glow becomes even, left to right.

But then, to each his own...

 

[GeorgeS]

@GeorgeS I think you are overheating your coils.

I have been using NiFe 52/48 since (well, forever) since it was first available. More than once I have suggested that the "dry-burn" methods we used with Kanthal A1 are too much for NiFe. I have never seen the dark color of your 4th and 5th photos.

Instead I suggest pulsing...just to the point of orange color. Timewise, it usually takes about (tick-tock) several minutes to get to the ideal color. I also insert a precision screwdiver (especially for dualies) to make sure the glow becomes even, left to right.

But then, to each his own...

I've been using it since we discovered it can be ordered in small amounts from Germany. (likely at the same time everyone else started using it)

While it was pulsed lightly to work out hot spots (it is a contact coil after all) its heating wire, its ment to get hot. I know of no health or safety issues with letting a NiFe heating coil glow like a - well - a heating coil. I let er glow when I first build (this is how I clean my wire) and when its gunked up and I'm changing wick.

I'd think that anyone that is not getting a nice dark grey color is not heating their coils enough. The ideal color is dark grey.

Then again, like you said - I guess to each their own.

 

[DrOrpheus]

Yep, it looks exactly like that after 3-4 pulses, only mines were spaced. But I can scrape off this black-ish film and you can see it on the cotton in the picture, or it ends up on the bottom of the RDA as a bunch of black specks (ash-like) when I scrape it dry.

 

[Jonnytc1]

Yep, it looks exactly like that after 3-4 pulses, only mines were spaced. But I can scrape off this black-ish film and you can see it on the cotton in the picture, or it ends up on the bottom of the RDA as a bunch of black specks (ash-like) when I scrape it dry.

Yup
I get exactly the same with Nife.
Until evolv do better with ss tc I'm out

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