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dwcraig1

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So far my experience with TC hasn't been very encouraging... SS316L is meh everywhere for me (except on mechs, that is), and even Ti doesn't bode well with the boards I own (oldish DNA40, cuboid/VTC mini, istick TC 60 and 100W)
Most of the problem is probably due to faulty implementations of the TC algorithms, the rest to sub-par wires (do we really know what materials are we being sold?); if anything I always get solid connection atom/mod, which on the other hand further enrages me for the lousy TC performance I get nevertheless.
I should probably get a recent dna board, for a final test, or simply accept that TC doesn't float my boat. Not at this stage, that is.
Sorry about the rant [emoji16]
Here's a screen shot of my Bellus, coiled with Nife 70). It fires at 50 watts for 1 second then at 40 watts. If I tured off TC and was still able to have preheat it would vape the same. But of coarse when in temp mode I have that over head protection. My goal it to pump as many watts as possible without hitting my temp setting. I consider pretty much that all wire vapes the same if the gauge is the same just some are easier to work with (both man and machine).
Try seeing what wattage it works good at with a temp wire with TC turned off then with TC on adjust your temp till you get that same vape (keep it realistic).
SS316/317 I would avoid for stable TC, it can work on some as long as everything else is dead on with the right mod.
13320738_1224838760873679_3276738360649063113_o.jpg

Note that it didn't reach temp setting, it vapes stellar.
Edit: I have a DNA40 that I use at home probably most of the time with a Bellus coiled with SS430 @ 35 watts and it vapes extremely close to the one above.
 
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AlaskaVaper

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Can anyone one explain the function of TFR now present on some TC mods that also use TCR for various wire types? The use of TFR is unxlear tp me. I think the first time I saw TFR was in the Smok Quantum 80 mod. I do not own one and am just curious. Any info would be appreciated.

I have not visited this thread in awhile so TFR may have been discussed and I missed it. I still miss "The Bloke" and continue to wonder if he ever reappeared or if anyone knows what happened with him.
 

f1vefour

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Can anyone one explain the function of TFR now present on some TC mods that also use TCR for various wire types? The use of TFR is unxlear tp me. I think the first time I saw TFR was in the Smok Quantum 80 mod. I do not own one and am just curious. Any info would be appreciated.

I have not visited this thread in awhile so TFR may have been discussed and I missed it. I still miss "The Bloke" and continue to wonder if he ever reappeared or if anyone knows what happened with him.
TFR is just TCR for multiple temperatures.

It's a curve instead of a single static number. Like the ohms at 200C, 250C, 300C..etc. It is how the DNA200 works.
 

dwcraig1

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I had some 430 from crazywire in UK but it was soft and didn't perform well at all.
Saying that I wouldn't trust their wires again tbh :D

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
I don't know if he ships internationally but I suspect he will if asked.
Take a look at the reviews for this wire. I torch it prior to winding as it's a bit (just a bit ) springy off the spool.
28 gauge Stainless Steel Wire - 430 Grade Nickel Free - 200 feet - 100% Guarantee - Unkamen Supplies
 

f1vefour

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Thanks 54. So basically I take it is more accurate than TCR. If that is the case then each wire would have the curve programed into the chip as a function and one would still utilize the TCR for the particular wire type? It get a little confusing.

Correct, more accurate temperature control versus one static TCR value.

No, you either use TFR or TCR. I would is TFR on a device that supports it. You either load the curve file on a DNA or on something like the 213 you enter 5 numbers into a memory slot, each memory slot serves for a certain type of wire.
 

AlaskaVaper

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Correct, more accurate temperature control versus one static TCR value.

No, you either use TFR or TCR. I would is TFR on a device that supports it. You either load the curve file on a DNA or on something like the 213 you enter 5 numbers into a memory slot, each memory slot serves for a certain type of wire.
THANKS 54- So it is either or. That resolves the issue for me. I could not see how TCR would apply well to a curve.(Dynamic?)
Are you still using your Apollo with the same enthusium you had originally? Things have moved on with better and simpler TC tech at a rapid pace yet the old just continues to work adequately.
 

f1vefour

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THANKS 54- So it is either or. That resolves the issue for me. I could not see how TCR would apply well to a curve.(Dynamic?)
Are you still using your Apollo with the same enthusium you had originally? Things have moved on with better and simpler TC tech at a rapid pace yet the old just continues to work adequately.
Still using it, in my hand right now ;)

3zdEtYS.jpg
 

GeorgeS

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    Winding in the fringes: NiFe70 37AWG update

    First off working with such small diameter wire is not for the faint of heart - if you thought NI200 was hard to work with this wire takes difficult to a whole new level.

    The two things to watch out for is snapping/breaking the wire and deforming the coil. With care both issues can be overcame but it may take a few tries to get a working build.

    The wire is to small to get "captured" by usual means, I've gotten to loosely winding it counter clock wise around the screw heads and then carefully and slowly tightening down the screws.

    A quick look at Steam Engine reveals that a 2.5-3.0mm ID with 8 wraps of 37awg NiFe70 will have a very high 'heat flux' even at 10w! Even with hand wound spaced coils I like to light up the build by dry burning to make sure the coil heats evenly.

    Getting the wick in is the second/third challenge. (beyond getting the legs secured and the winding dowel removed) I like to use Silica rope which can be carefully threaded into the coil.

    Last but not least challenge is getting the atomizer "hood" on without disturbing the wick to much. Recall that this is VERY SMALL WIRE that can easily break while building.
    27146859633_54cf165d5d_z.jpg

    This last week I've created two builds with 37AWG NiFe70, the first on a VVTF V1.0 Nautilus RBA head and the second on a Kanger TTM clone RBA. Both builds clocked in at ~1.5-1.8 ohms cold.

    27146861523_2d6735240f.jpg


    I'm firing the TTM build on a YiHi350Jv2 (Boxer26650). Yes I know what the SX350 spec's are however surprisingly enough the SX350's will regulate coils in Joules mode that have over 2.0ohms resistance cold. (I have a 2.2ohm SS430 build in a Lemo clone mounted on my SXminiM, but that is another story) In TC/Joules mode with a mere 10J driving it the TTM performs well. Actually it produces equal or better vapor production than a SS430 build it replaced. I'll need to sync up on a full TTM tank and fresh battery to see how the battery life was impacted.

    The Nautilus/VVTF build is mounted on a Sigelei V5 in VV mode. My V5 and V3's are the lower resistance limiting factors of builds (>=1.2ohms). The goal here was to use high TCR TC wire in a VV mode in an effort to 'self regulate' the temperature of the coil. The super thin wire heats up very fast (as well as cooling off fast) and after a long pull I've noticed the 1.5ohm coil (cold) reach 2.7ohms! I'm currently feeding the build with a mere 4.0v. This build can be "chain vaped" without overheating!

    If the battery run time tests pan out as I expect, I'll likely keep a few 37awg builds in my standard rotation.

    To compare, here's a 28AWG SS430 build:
    27723490866_0fe3882021_z.jpg
     
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