The option of entering an ID and a number of wraps is already on my to do-list, which by the way is unsorted, so I have no idea when. But it will be added eventually.![]()
Great, thanks!
The option of entering an ID and a number of wraps is already on my to do-list, which by the way is unsorted, so I have no idea when. But it will be added eventually.![]()
So, I found a piece of data that I'd like to run by some of the technical minded here.
Whenever someone asks about coil material and safety, someone else will bring up the dangers chemicals that can be formed from nickel, titanium, or steel. Then someone else well bring up that you aren't going any where near the melt, much less the vaporization temps, and then the whole thing is dropped, and everyone moves on.
I understand we aren't going near the melt point of the materials, but that doesn't mean they aren't pitting off vapor. On a nice 77 degree F day (25 celsius), you're about 3 times closer to the freezing temperature of water than you are to the vaporization temperature of water... but water will still evaporate away.
Now, I understand the structure of steel, and know the molecular "cages" of iron don't open up enough to let out impurities at temperatures we are working at. However, I do not know the same thing about nickel, or titanium, so I looked for it.
What I found was a chart (actually 2 charts) of vaporization pressures of different metallic elements at various temperatures, with melt temps. (URL at the bottom)
I'm not sure if this is accurate, and it does not appear to go down to a zero.
Does anyone know if this is accurate, our if this it's a legitimate concern for these materials?
The site is:
Vapor pressure of the Chemical Elements, vapor pressure of metals
and halogens from -150 degrees C to 3500 degrees C including lead, aluminum,
zinc, iodine, copper, indium, iodine, magnesium, selenium, lithium, iron,
sodium and gallium
Thomas from Zivipf got the NiFe30 wire. I don`t know which one, but I will get a sample soon. I will let you know.Awesome, thanks for the heads-up!
In the meantime, for UK users it's now also available on Pipeline's UK site: NiFe30 Dicodes Resistherm Heating Wire for rebuildable atomizer | Pipeline-store.co.uk
But it's £11 for 10m, which is even more expensive than from Germany - £11 is €15.50. Bloody typical UK pricing! Take an already expensive product and make it even more so.
That said it's probably still cheaper for UK users to order from Pipeline UK than Pipeline Germany, taking postage into account.
But if Zivipf will have it soon, that will be most preferable of all.
Thomas from Zivipf got the NiFe30 wire. I don`t know which one, but I will get a sample soon. I will let you know.
Edit: Ring ring, the wire arrived. I got 0.28mm and 0.25mm. The 0.28mm NiFe30 is 3.25 Ohm/m - measured. I will test it this night.
Zivipf perpared the shop already for NiFe30 NiFe30 - Zivipf Onlineshop
I guess Thomas will list the wire as soon as he got some feedbacks.
Sorry Tom, but Dicodes offers only a custom made Resitherm wire in 0.28mm/ 5.5Ohm/m - Resitherm offers regular NiFe30 up 0.25mm. ( Yes, sometimes there is too much input and too many numbersAwesome!
Please measure the resistance of the 0.25mm. 0.25 is the same that Dicodes supplies as Resistherm, so it will be interesting to see how the reisstance compares. The Dicodes Resistherm 0.25mm is 5.5Ω/m
For some reason that I don't really understand, a uniform length of something tend to heat up from the middle. Assuming that your coil is uniform, it means that from a simply loop to a micro-coil everything will heat up from the middle, given that you have no internal arch.(...) It is a normal practice to oxidize most common coil materials prior to use. I think it's more just done out of habit, std practice, or the practicality of being able to shape the coil & make sure it's heating from the center out without hot spots. (...)
(...) To me the NiFe coils are the most promising. I have less apprehension about a Nickel/Iron oxide layer then I do for the other options.
This has been a fantastic & thought provoking thread. I'm new to ecf and grateful to have such a platform to facilitate discussions such as this. I thought I'd get of the sidelines and try to contribute. Although Vaporization is a detour from topic there is a practical side that I've never seen discussed & does tie in to the topic of temp control coil build strategery. So here goes. There seams to be a wide spread consensus that Ni200 & Titanium coils should not be dry fired or to put another way they should not be oxidized prior to use (the reasons why I'll leave to other threads). As a consequence of this, both Ni200 & Titanium tend to have unstable TCR results when built as contact coils, thus It is becoming the norm to build spaced temp coils. Bear with me; I promise I'll get to the point eventually. It is a normal practice to oxidize most common coil materials prior to use. I think it's more just done out of habit, std practice, or the practicality of being able to shape the coil & make sure it's heating from the center out without hot spots. I don't think most vapors realize that when they heat the coil to a bright glow 1500°F + they are actually forming/growing an oxide layer on the coil surface. I see videos of people jiggling hot coils & strumming them like a guitar and wallah; magically the hot spots disappear. I've yet to hear someone explain why. It is this beneficial oxide layer that straightens out the hot spots. The surface oxide layer that forms is an electrical insulator it is what makes successful contact coils possible. when a coil is dry fired and a hot spot (short/arc) is observed, its likely the result of the coils being in full contact prior to being oxidized so then when you jiggle the coil or strum it you open up a tiny gap just big enough for the oxide layer to form on the next pulse & your hot spot goes away. The Below excerpt (less then 300 words) was taken from Here http://www.kanthal.com/Global/Downloads/Materials%20in%20wire%20and%20strip%20form/Resistance%20heating%20wire%20and%20strip/S-KA026-B-ENG-2012-01.pdf
"The protective oxide layer on Kanthal® alloys formed at temperatures above 1000°C (1830°F)
consists mainly of alumina (Al2O3). The color is light grey, while at lower temperatures (under
1000°C (1830°F)) the oxide color becomes darker. The alumina layer has excellent electrical insulating properties and good chemical resistance to most compounds.
The oxide formed on Nikrothal® alloys consists mainly of chromium oxide (Cr2O3). The color is
dark and the electrical insulating properties inferior to those of alumina.
The oxide layer on Nikrothal alloys spalls and evaporates more easily than the tighter oxide layer
that is formed on Kanthal alloys.
Nikrothal is just kanthal's brand of Nichrome 80 & 60, Ni200 forms a "suspicious" Nickel oxide layer, & Titanium forms a "suspicious" titanium oxide layer. So when we hear of uninsulated contact coils built from un-oxidized Ni200 or Titanium with unstable resistance readings it means (there are shorts across the coils) basically the coils are being arc welded together at extreme localized temps hot enough to weld and or vaporize the metal. That to me is the scary side of Vaporization from a practical standpoint. OK let me try to somehow get back on thread topic. I'm not a big fan of building hybrid temp control coils for this very reason. It seems you've got to pick the lesser of 2 evils with them. Either you oxidize the hybrid and choose to accept the "suspicious" oxide, or you don't dry fire & accept the fact that some amount of metal/e liquid is going to be vaporized at extreme temps since shorts withing the unoxidized coils are inevitable. The more elaborate the hybrid the more opportunity for shorts. Personally I don't use Nickel coils. I like to build contact coils & I want my coils oxidized. To me the NiFe coils are the most promising. I have less apprehension about a Nickel/Iron oxide layer then I do for the other options.
Ok, I made my dry cotton tests. 0.28mm wire, SXK reads 0.28Ohm ( DNA40 and Keithley say 0.32 Ohm ). SXK set to 420F and 40W, I started with NP 30 and came to NP 56 when the cotton was light brown. So I would say the TCR is quite high and around 50. This is not Resitherm NiFe30 for sure - too low Ohms/m and too high TCR.
Thanks @WileE I had a look in the Kanthal Datasheet. On page 72+73 they show the specs for Nifethal 70. They don`t write the TCR but they write the resitifity increase from 20C to 100C and from 100 to 200C
- 20C = 1
- 100C = 1,42
- 200C = 1,91
This means: The TCR between 20C and 100C is 0.0052 and from 20C to 200C 0,0050555. Sounds not bad in case of my unknown wire. And on page 73 they write the Ohms/m for my diameters
0.28mm = 3.25 Ohm/m and 0.25mm = 4.07 Ohm/m
I guess, no, I´m sure the Zivipf wire is Kanthal Nifethal 70
Ain't tested but keep usingGOtta say, I love the work you guys are doing. If I had the time/means, I would help.
So, do we have any idea on the TCR/TFR on the Alloy 120 that is available in the US? resistancewire.com lists theirs as "Alloy 120" with a million other names, to include Nifethal 70 - Want to see what the current verdict is on that stuff, if there is one. They list the TCR of their product as 4.5e-05, and was wondering if you believed it was accurate. Seeing as it's close to Titanium, I was planning to run it with similar to Titanium settings on a DNA40. Thanks!
Besides, on their product page, the 4.5e-05 is very likely a typo (good catch BTW we might need to tell them) as the their datasheet lists it as 0.0045 (4.5E-03) which is more realistic and very close their Ni200's 0.0047.
And to make it worse, the listed TFRs on the datasheet are implicating some lower than TI's resistance changes dubiously close to their A52 (listed TCR 0.0029)
Bottom line: Until Tom tests the very material do a dry cotton test first
BTW: ATM it is 200°C(392°F) for me on a DNA40