check it out!
Titanium wire, vaping and safety | Page 127 | E-Cigarette Forum
its a big thread by now but there is a lot of useful info in it and in this one!!
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TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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check it out!
Titanium wire, vaping and safety | Page 127 | E-Cigarette Forum
its a big thread by now but there is a lot of useful info in it and in this one!!
Thanks for the information yes he did present that way but still scary - feel better that you went into some detail.
Been searching for TI wire, can't find anyone who states it's Titanium TC wire they're selling.
Can you supply me with a link or two.
In my opinion that is simply irresponsible bs. Ti wire cannot create Ti dust unless you touch it to a grinding wheel or some such. You can overheat very fine titanium wire and cause it to burn but the conditions necessary to do it are very far from "vaping" and it's like a flash bulb not something that goes on and on unless you have a bin full of the fine wire.
Jet engines have titanium compressor disks and compressor blades that operate in the range of 1000 to 1200 F and they do not burn and they have service lives of many thousands of hours. The only way to cause a fire with these components is to rub them very hard against another metallic structure at very high speeds and high pressures
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I spent my working life doing research and development in the jet engine industry so I'm not speaking from a dark place.
BTW iron powder/dust will also burn if you touch it to a grinding wheel. The proof is the thing called "sparks".
Fine iron powder also combusts explosively. It doesn't have the energy release rate that titanium has but it's not a mild reacton.
I suggest you read in depth on that issue before you plan any actions based on it.
Duane
All you need is Titanium Grade 1 - there isn't "TC wire" and "not TC wire", there's just different grades. Titanium Grade 1 is the purest, safest, and it's what we all use for TC vaping of Titanium. Other grades are not tested and not recommended.
Unkamen is a highly recommended supplier of Titanium Grade 1 in the US
I'm lost on this one @TheBloke. I thought I was finally beginning to understand the tcr to power relationship but maybe not. If 304 has too low of a tcr to work in Ti mode wouldn't it be too low to work in Ni mode? To your point, yes, Ni mode on the evic is off very little. Underpowered @15-20°f but still, doesn't the wider tcr difference between Ni and 304 make it even less likely to work?
I like to thank everyone for the quick response to my question on TI wire and the dust.
Putting it all together and adding some common sense.
I understand now - couldn't have done it without you guys.
you guys and especially ECF.
Putting it all together and adding some common sense.
I understand now - couldn't have done it without you guys.
you guys and especially ECF.
Well firstly you've almost certainly not misunderstood it, I probably mis-stated it here.
In general: I suspect that an accurate Titanium mode definitely will work for SS. And I think a chance that even an accurate Ni200 mode will work.
In my Joyetech comment I suppose I was thinking that maybe a highly inaccurate Titanium mode might be worse than an accurate Ni200 mode. But now I think about it, the Titanium mode would have to be really inaccurate, probably more so than the Evic's is.
So yeah disregard that statement for now.
Anyway I will do all the testing as soon as I can and then we'll know for sure.
Ok great. I am intermittently dislexic with up and downs, lefts and rights etc. It makes these types of thought processes difficult for me at times. Thanks
I'd say it can't work... Titanium's TCR of 0.0035/K means that the resistance will increase by 0.35% per ºC. Our TCs allow for a minimum temperature setting of 100ºC, that is 80ºC raise. In Ti mode, this corresponds to an increase of 80·0.35% = 28% of resistance. Now, SS has a TCR around 0.001/K, i.e. an increase of 0.1% per ºC. Therefore, to get the resistance 28% up, the temperature must raise by 280ºC from 20ºC to 300ºC. In other words, the lowest possible setting of 100ºC in Ti mode corresponds to 300ºC with SS. Definitely too hot to be useful! It's even worse in Ni mode: with 0.6% per ºC increase of resistance, the minimum setting of 100ºC corresponds to 500ºC with SS.
This sounds backwards to me. With Ni having @5x the tcr of ss the mod would throw MORE voltage at a Ni coil than at a ss coil to produce a given wattage/temp. When I run my Ti coil (higher tcr) in Ni mode(curved for lower tcr) I have to turn the temp DOWN. Maybe we're saying the same thing in different ways but it sounds like you are saying that we couldn't turn the temp down enough. I'm thinking we couldn't turn it up enough to rum 304 in Ti mode.
Why do you have to go and spoil things with 'maths' and 'logic'!
I admit I had forgotten that 100°C was the minimum setting
Yeah OK you're right. 300°C would prevent some dry hits, but is obviously well above burning dry cotton or Rayon.We can tell for the DNA 40 in Ni200 immediately, where eg 250°C requires a setting of 77°C, definitely too low, and the minimum of 100°C would give around 420°C. It'll be not quite as bad on other Ni200 mods which don't have the curve, but still way too much.
Hmm, but what about the mods we know under heat Titanium? I just realised I got it completely wrong earlier when I said the Joyetech in Titanium mode would be worse - it would be better. If 100°C in Titanium mode on a Joyetech is actually 70°C. this brings it down to closer to the range we want. So inaccuracy in such a mode could be a benefit.
I'll do some testing just to be sure.
Yeah you turn it down - and with SS you have to turn it down far more (because of the much greater disparity in TCRs), and the right setting is below what the mod will let you set. It won't let you turn it down below 100°C.
So you might set 140°C on a Yihi Ni200 mode when you want 250°C (you set it lower than you wanted), then with SS you need to set it even lower than that - ultimately needing below 100°C, which can't be set.
Update from Crazy Wire on their NiFe:
So let's see what happens next week.
Reading between the lines it does sound like it's probably more than just someone mis-labelling the wire sent specifically to me. Especially as they don't sell SS 304 in the sizes they sent me, so it's not like they could have just picked up the wrong spools.
I suspect they got sent the wrong wire and are waiting for a re-shipment from the supplier.
In which case what I'm most concerned about is anyone else who bought the wire - did they all get wrong stuff? Do they know to return it? Are they burning wicks and thinking NiFe70 is utter rubbish?
If it is a larger problem I hope CW are going to contact anyone who already received it. I will mention this to them when they next get back to me.
I wish I knew someone who had already ordered and received some so we could compare notes.
- They're going to send me a replacement shipment of wire
- But they're waiting for their technical guys to have a look at the wire "to make sure we're not sending the same wire to you again"
- They will get that to my for early next week
- He offered to send me a spool or two of something else in the meantime, which I declined - I have all the Titanium, Kanthal, Ni200 etc I could ever need
- I did ask that if they had some wire they thought should be NiFe, but was awaiting testing, then chuck another spool of that in just in case.
- And I suggested a quick and easy way to see if the wire was the same as what I got - measure the resistance of 100mm. Or touch it with a magnet!
So let's see what happens next week.
Reading between the lines it does sound like it's probably more than just someone mis-labelling the wire sent specifically to me. Especially as they don't sell SS 304 in the sizes they sent me, so it's not like they could have just picked up the wrong spools.
I suspect they got sent the wrong wire and are waiting for a re-shipment from the supplier.
In which case what I'm most concerned about is anyone else who bought the wire - did they all get wrong stuff? Do they know to return it? Are they burning wicks and thinking NiFe70 is utter rubbish?
If it is a larger problem I hope CW are going to contact anyone who already received it. I will mention this to them when they next get back to me.
I wish I knew someone who had already ordered and received some so we could compare notes.
Actually, likewise! Mostly in physical situations, like working out which way to turn a screw when I'm doing so upside down. And I have a persistent problem with confusing east and west on maps. Never N/S, only E/W.
We might have a winner!
Joyetech EVic-VT @ 100°C with SS 304 coil, temperature maintains at between 230 and 240°C! (446°F - 464°F). Which is exactly where I set all my coils. The burning point of Rayon is meant to be around 460°F I believe.
Good old Joyetech, deliberately underheating their Titanium mode knowing that it would enable use of SS 304 coils at a single temperature setting
Does rather prove the point that any accurate Titanium mod is going to heat quite a bit above this. But then, underheating Titanium is not unique to the Joyetech - so there might be others it works on too.
I emphasise this is just a preliminary result, I need to do more detailed testing, which I will do soon, along with posting graphs later. But I wanted to check that one quickly, and it's looking good so far.
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Just ran another test and it dropped out of TC mode, and VW fired the coil to glowing and destroyed my thermocouple probe My fault for not looking at the screen before firing. Fortunately I have a couple more.
I ran a third and it was the same as the first, so there is hope - I don't know why it dropped out on that second test, maybe it was a jumping resistance or similar mechanical glitch.
But just a caveat that I can't yet say for sure SS 304 works reliably long term on the EVic, only that it works in principle (for an achieved temp of 230-240 or higher)
My fault for not looking at the screen before firing. Fortunately I have a couple more.I ran a third and it was the same as the first, so there is hope - I don't know why it dropped out on that second test, maybe it was a jumping resistance or similar mechanical glitch.
But just a caveat that I can't yet say for sure SS 304 works reliably long term on the EVic, only that it works in principle (for an achieved temp of 230-240 or higher)
Ooh, and I just realised that the lowest setting on the Joyetech in °F mode is 200°F : 93°C. So that might enable a minimum setting of around 220-225°C.
I think I have finally dialed in my Titanium build. For any of you that use subtank mini's, try this build.
I stuffed my cotton as tight as I could get it, and it's been pretty great anywhere from 425 to 450F.
After I wrapped the coil, I turned my mod to wattage mode and dry fired the coil at 7 watts for about 2 seconds. I then "strummed" it with a screwdriver until it glowed evenly. Again, only fire it in a dark room for 1-2 seconds.
I stuffed my cotton as tight as I could get it, and it's been pretty great anywhere from 425 to 450F.
After I wrapped the coil, I turned my mod to wattage mode and dry fired the coil at 7 watts for about 2 seconds. I then "strummed" it with a screwdriver until it glowed evenly. Again, only fire it in a dark room for 1-2 seconds.
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