TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance

[TheBloke]

I'm pretty sure you love blue. I think you'll find a way to turn all type of wires into blue And I'm also pretty sure temp (heat) / voltage (anodise) are the main factors for the thickness of oxidation. As for SS, it's too easy to build. I don't think you need to pre torch-pulse it. Just a nice cleaning with alcohol first and it's ready to go. Even with 28g you can have a perfect microcoil. I like it spaced so I just pull the edges a little afterwards.

I do like blue But that is not the reason to torch. With SS yes the wire coils incredibly easily. I won't be pulsing/torching SS again.

The reason I did it with SS was in the hope it would allow contact coils to work immediately. But for some reason it doesn't - maybe I just didn't pulse it enough, or maybe the oxide layer was removed in the process of coiling it.

So for SS contact coils, it seems we have to pulse them in-place, as contact coils - exactly like we do for Kanthal - before they will work for TC.

If you are preferring spaced coils then I guess you are finding it works for TC immediately. I think that if you tried a contact coil you would find that TC does not work immediately until you have put some power through the coil a couple of times (or maybe one long time). Then it's fine for TC after that.

 

[IanDVaypes]

2380 or dani v2 ex??

I got the 2380

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I got the 2380

cool! I hiope I dont regret the fixed 510 on the dani!!

 

[TheBloke]

If I get a Dicodes, and I still cannot decide, I think it will be the 2380 - if I'm going to splash out all that money I don't want the slightest risk of wishing I'd got the top one!

 

[TheBloke]

That said, by all accounts I don't think you'll regret the fixed pin - ndb and soulseek said it's fine, very well engineered of course and if there's a gap that's described by Dicodes as being fine for TC. spring ideally, if not, leave a gap.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

If I get a Dicodes, and I still cannot decide, I think it will be the 2380 - if I'm going to splash out all that money I don't want the slightest risk of wishing I'd got the top one!

my problem with the 2380 is it is a lot of extra money to pay essentially for a sprung 510 as I wont use it in anything other than 18650 mode anyway but that's just me. I do know what you mean though

 

[TheotherSteveS]

That said, by all accounts I don't think you'll regret the fixed pin - ndb and soulseek said it's fine, very well engineered of course and if there's a gap that's described by Dicodes as being fine for TC. spring ideally, if not, leave a gap.

i still dont quite understand the gap thing...lol!

 

[KenD]

i still dont quite understand the gap thing...lol!

Perhaps a slight gap between the atty and the mod? So that the connection will be stable even if there's some expansion/contraction.

 

[TheBloke]

Perhaps a slight gap between the atty and the mod? So that the connection will be stable even if there's some expansion/contraction.

Precisely that, yes

 

[KenD]

Precisely that, yes

Still a bit weird though as the different metals in the atty pin and 510 negative would expand/contract differently.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Perhaps a slight gap between the atty and the mod? So that the connection will be stable even if there's some expansion/contraction.

an air gap?!?!?! huh?!?!

 

[TheotherSteveS]

oh you mean the base of the atty and the 510 housing on the mod?!?!

 

[TheBloke]

It just means that if there's no spring, you don't want the atty screwed down completely flush with the mod if possible.

Check out their Application Guide for Temp Control Vaping, it's worth a read in full. That's where this recommendation comes from.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

It just means that if there's no spring, you don't want the atty screwed down completely flush with the mod if possible.

Check out their Application Guide for Temp Control Vaping, it's worth a read in full. That's where this recommendation comes from.

Ok. Thats fine.

I looked at the application note but didnt quite get what they were on about with the gap. Now its clear! Cheers!

 

[KenD]

oh you mean the base of the atty and the 510 housing on the mod?!?!

Yes, exactly. But still, different metals extend/contract differently, so I'm not seeing how such a gap would be very beneficial.

 

[balazsk]

I have done the resistance measurement to check the accuracy of SXK/Infinite DNA clone.

Real R - R by SXK - Diff.
1.775 - 1.530 = 0.245 Ohm
1.270 - 1.070 = 0.200 Ohm
1.080 - 0.920 = 0.160 Ohm
0.900 - 0.750 = 0.150 Ohm
0.600 - 0.500 = 0.100 Ohm
0.420 - 0.350 = 0.070 Ohm
0.302 - 0.240 = 0.062 Ohm
0.196 - 0.140 = 0.056 Ohm
0.162 - 0.120 = 0.042 Ohm
0.100 - 0.060 = 0.040 Ohm

It is not really nice but the temperature control just works fine and that's why I like this mod.

 

[TheBloke]

Thanks a lot @balazsk

I know you have done a lot of tests already, but I would be very interested in one more set of data:

The same resistance readings (or some of them, maybe every other one), done on one other representative mod. Maybe a Waidea or Kangxin flask, maybe a genuine DNA 40, maybe a Yihi TC - I don't know what other mods you have

From you current data we see the extent of the SXK reading low against a highly accurate figure. Now I would like to understand what the practical difference is, compared to a real life mod.

If you have any more time for this that would be very useful. If not, I understand.

(Maybe it will be a quick test because you will find the other mod is usually pretty accurate compared to the reference.)

Thanks

 

[TheBloke]

The next thing for us to do is work out a reference table for TCR adjustments at different ohms. Eg if one has a 0.40 ti coil which is instead read as 0.33, what value should one set NP to in order to get the most accurate temp sensings? This is along the lines of the adjustments that @ndb70 was talking about to counteract static resistance. It will vary with target temperature, as ndb pointed out.

Which is another thing we must take into account - if static resistance is, say, +0.03, but the mod reads -0.07, then the real adjustment is -0.04.

Actually for Ni200, the -0.04 is not too bad, even good, because in many cases it will simply counteract all the static resistance and so we might think that at 0.10 the mod is more accurate than most other mods!

A 0.10 stretch of wire on a 0.03 Static Resistance atty will read 0.13 on a normal mod, but 0.09 on SXK mod. So it is more accurate in that one area. But not at higher resistances.

By the way I think this is why NP defaults to 70, and I find Ti best at 42-45, even though the correct values should be 60 and 35 respectively. Because the ohm reading is too low, a slightly higher NP setting is needed to get best accuracy.

I will run the calcs on that tonight to be sure that I am correct in that assumption.

At the least I will hope it vindicates my calculation that NP is a linear TCR scale I was pretty sure that 60 should equal 0.006 for Ni200 but then I couldn't understand why 70 was default. I think this must be why.

 

[TheBloke]

It is not really nice but the temperature control just works fine and that's why I like this mod.

Yes it's a shame, but as you say TC works just fine - and better than fine, because it is the only mod I own that can reliably use Stainless Steel. So it is still a great TC mod, just it has this weakness we must account for.

It is not perfect, but it is also a $50-60 mod with latest TC technology, and I am still very happy overall

PS. I plan to email SXK to inform them of this bug. I have your permission to quote your figures to them?

 

[balazsk]

Of course you can use the results and send them to SXK!
You are right I should do the measurements also on other mods. Unfortunately I have only a VS DNA30 and Cloupor mini because mainly I've used mechanical mods before SXK. I will try to do it on the DNA30.