I already went to the Kooportech website and put in a strong suggestion that they update the firmware for a slower menu action. It might be a good idea if they got a flood of similar suggestions.
Duane
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
- Thread starter TheBloke
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I already went to the Kooportech website and put in a strong suggestion that they update the firmware for a slower menu action. It might be a good idea if they got a flood of similar suggestions.
Duane
Has the top fill thing started coming loose or is it loose on that tank? Thats the only thing that worries me about it otherwise it looks freaking awesome.
So, I built a 6 wrap 316L SS coil on my Lemo 2, the point being to eliminate the atomizer from the Kooper equation/test.
A poor 510, as previously reported, will not show ACTUAL/live temperature reading in eScribe. I get past that with adjustments (up/down) finally getting a live temp in eScribe. The wonky Lemo 510 is a well-known issue. My plan in buying the Kooper was to use an inexpensive atty on an inexpensive box. I should say, I have tried both of my K4's and the GEM on the Kooper. Took some pix last night of how off the 510 is with the GEM. (You don't want to see; it's miserable. See infra.)
Nevertheless, I ran the Lemo 2 atty through its paces on the DNA 200 using eScribe. Settings are: 27-28 watts, Temp 330, Preheat 100 watts (necessary), Punch Hard 7. It vapes well. Temp hovers just below Set Temp even with a "10 Second" controlled "Puff".
Then to the Kooper. in and out of TC no matter how I try to set the 510, whether in Ni or Ti, with several adjustments to Initial Ohms.
In straight TC mode with Ni it mostly vapes as expected, if NP is set to the Max. In Ti mode (K4, 0.33 ohms, any temp between 270 and 470) not so much...jumps to watts, actually not at all.
Comical, with the GEM as much as 2-2.5 mm off the base (as measured) the Kooper fires, as though an atty is, in fact, attached. Thus, I apparently have a new knock-around nickel box mod. [emoji15] [emoji57] Not so bad for the bux.
A poor 510, as previously reported, will not show ACTUAL/live temperature reading in eScribe. I get past that with adjustments (up/down) finally getting a live temp in eScribe. The wonky Lemo 510 is a well-known issue. My plan in buying the Kooper was to use an inexpensive atty on an inexpensive box. I should say, I have tried both of my K4's and the GEM on the Kooper. Took some pix last night of how off the 510 is with the GEM. (You don't want to see; it's miserable. See infra.)
Nevertheless, I ran the Lemo 2 atty through its paces on the DNA 200 using eScribe. Settings are: 27-28 watts, Temp 330, Preheat 100 watts (necessary), Punch Hard 7. It vapes well. Temp hovers just below Set Temp even with a "10 Second" controlled "Puff".
Then to the Kooper. in and out of TC no matter how I try to set the 510, whether in Ni or Ti, with several adjustments to Initial Ohms.
In straight TC mode with Ni it mostly vapes as expected, if NP is set to the Max. In Ti mode (K4, 0.33 ohms, any temp between 270 and 470) not so much...jumps to watts, actually not at all.
Comical, with the GEM as much as 2-2.5 mm off the base (as measured) the Kooper fires, as though an atty is, in fact, attached. Thus, I apparently have a new knock-around nickel box mod. [emoji15] [emoji57] Not so bad for the bux.
Two weeks is my preferred maximum as well. Although it depends on the tank, and whether it's got an accessible deck. Nearly all of mine do, as it's a feature I prefer. That means that I fairly regularly get to see the build when removing the tank to fill it or maybe to give the inside of the chimney a quick wipe. If I see the wick looking gunked to hell with black bits in it I will feel an urge to replace it.
And therefore conversely I often leave it longer on my tanks that don't easily show the deck. For example my Goblin Mini, which is bottom-filled through a screw and where I would have to specifically take the tank and chimney off to see the deck, hasn't been changed in more than two weeks. It still tastes OK although I do feel like it's more muted than it should be so I will probably get around to it soon.
I recently tried Fibre Freaks on a whim - I saw it at ZiVipf when I was ordering NiFe70. I actually quite like it. It's basically just Rayon++, the same basic material but specially prepared and arranged in little rectangles. I find it slightly more convenient to use, and feel (but cannot be sure) that it "breaks in" a bit quicker than raw Rayon, ie I start getting full flavour on a brand new wick quicker than Rayon.
Not sure I'll stick with it though, as I went through it much faster than their estimated wick count.
I have to wonder if you've got a HW fault with yours. That has been experienced with the XCube 2: mine was fine, Mad Scientist was having TC problems all over the place. He took it apart and there was an issue around the 510, bad wiring or some such - I can't remember the details.
Given Duane is using his without problems, I'm assuming (hoping) this is not a general design flaw, just an issue with yours specifically.
It's probably safe to say that Smok's QC is not their strongest suit.
I think there's something wonky about the Koopor you have. The one I used was spot on except for the lightning flash menus, but then I was using it with a Kanger Subtank and an Ubertoot.
Duane
Likely so.
I am not sending it back though. Once upon a time I went through 4 (?) of their "DNA 30" sent back. Here we cannot see the hot glue because that area is sealed. The DNA 30's were a hot glue mess.
As I said you get what you pay for. I wasn't expecting much. [emoji57] Perhaps my magical dance or a trance will reveal the trick. [emoji41]
Your mention of the Ubertoot, for which I am NOT lusting [emoji39], made me think, "try the SquapeRs".
Sure enough, it fires the 316 L SS [0.52 ohms, Ti mode, NP 80] but only reaches 150 F max. In Ni mode it jumps immediately to Watts, which as likely it should, seeing ohms over its Ni limit.
Really? What is the max ohm spec in tc mode for the koopor? Different for Ti mode than Ni mode?
My 430 Stainless arrived today and I'm getting ready to build a coil for a regular mod (my SS capable TC mod is a ways off yet). My research indicates that the resistance is .006 per mm. Is this correct?
Hmmm... either my research was wrong, or there's a math error somewhere. A 5 wrap spaced coil using 28 gauge on a 2.4 mm mandrel came out to .47 Ohms. I promptly destroyed that coil by firing it in TC mode on an iStick TC40W... meaning it fired at 40 watts. Oops... A second coil with another wrap and slightly longer legs came in at .67 Ohms and is firing nicely at 20 watts. This would mean that 28 gauge (and that's likely where the error came in to play as I never specified a gauge when researching) is closer to .0085 Ohms per mm.
The official specs say 0.06-2.0 but I believe, based on limited experience that the upper limit is closer to 1.0 ohm. So, starting with a coil at 0.5x that rises under fire to 0.6 does not leave a lot of headroom.
This may be why @druckle is having success and I have not since he builds his Ti to 0.20-0.27.
For SS I need thicker gauge than the 26 awg I now have, or narrow ID. I do not like 2 mm coils for TC, for unregulated (squonking) yes, even lower.
Last edited:
I used to, quite religiously, when TC began. Moved to 2.5 because of squonking "One Ring to Rule them All" [emoji7],
Been on 2.5 for TC for 'bout 3-4 months.
Why do you ask?
Curious about the 2mm, TC work better for you with a larger coil? Squonking better with larger also, interesting.
I hate large coils, but I don't know why. 2.5 isn't really large though, just this side.
I hate large coils, but I don't know why. 2.5 isn't really large though, just this side.
In TC 3 mm vs. 2.5 doesn't make much difference with Nickel. If in doubt just add more wraps or increase gauge. I know you know this but just in case check: Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Ti and SS is a horse of another color.
With Kanthal/squonking/unregulated you are constrained by ye'ol Volts and Amp Limit, contingent on your "sweet spot". I like 0.5 down to 0.3x, or, 8.4 to 14 amps. Will head down to 0.2 on a dual battery, playing fast and loose with the amp limit.
It's not as crazy as it sounds coz it's all about FLAVOR.
Unregulated is okay unless your below 0.5'ish, then you need two batteries for any kind of decent life. I can tell I get a smoother vape from my mechs but just not worth the effort to me anymore. I wouldn't get rid of them though, you can't beat a mech for simplicity or reliability.
There is still one mech I want, a squonker of course.
I haven't used SE, but I have a few apps that do the same thing.
There is still one mech I want, a squonker of course.
I haven't used SE, but I have a few apps that do the same thing.
A dual 18650 dibi style, haven't seen those before. Very nice.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
- Locked
