TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
- Thread starter TheBloke
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I increased the wattage to 32 but only increased the preheat to 40, just giving something to compare to.
I'm still trying to vape with "wattage", it may be illusive but when it doesn't sizzle loudly I'm not happy with it.
Subtank with NiFe52
I'm still trying to vape with "wattage", it may be illusive but when it doesn't sizzle loudly I'm not happy with it.
Subtank with NiFe52
Hope you are not rightOK...after skimming through this thread I am convinced that a TC user needs an advanced degree in Physics!! With my degree in Political Science I shouldn't have ordered an SX mini on Black Friday.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Hope you are not right
Easy for you to say..
you're the one that came up with charts using convoluted demonic equations with unholy symbols..LOLSeriously..I am looking for an enjoyable healthy vape ..and after holding back on TC for a long time I finally decided to give it a try. And really..all I want is to know which wire gives the best taste with the least health hazards and how to use it on my mini. Do I rely on the presets if they're there..or do I have to manually enter a certain value.
Beleive or not, the chart and everything is more like a fun than necessity.Easy for you to say..
Seriously..I am looking for an enjoyable healthy vape ..and after holding back on TC for a long time I finally decided to give it a try. And really..all I want is to know which wire gives the best taste with the least health hazards and how to use it on my mini. Do I rely on the presets if they're there..or do I have to manually enter a certain value.
And gives nothing more than some starting point.
Ok, I stick with my own data, csv or TCR but I have found that the actual build brings tons of uncertainty into the party leaving plenty of room for trial and error.
In other word, whatever floats your boat.
If you are happy with experimenting, TCR and own build is the way, if you are after a low maintenance TC vape, stock coils and predefined profiles can do the trick. Finding the right temp can be tricky tho.
Tip: set temp to max, make sure that the atty is working fine, no funny taste nothing, and check the temp it reaches when you vape on it. You set your temp around it and you are good to go.
Now that was useful ....and understandable! Thanks a lot. I am not a very big fan of subohm tanks and stock coils. I prefer to build my own so I guess I will do lots of experimentation. But since I believe there is no need to reinvent the wheel and that scientific knowledge is essentially cumulative, I would appreciate similar tips (in the same layman terms..LOL)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
I will try
Health concerns/ issues/hazards I am aware of:
1., Nickel allergy: if you have, you need to stay away from alloys with high or any Ni content
2., Titanium dioxide forming on Ti when heated over 600°C. I personally don't know if it is a real danger/hazard or not but I am playing it safe and do not dry burn Ti in Kanthal sense but a controlled way. (You can find plenty on this in this thread or here)
SXMini:
With its manual TCR settings it can handle all the TC wires I am aware of so this part is covered
Atty:
You need an atty with reliable connection. I am not aware of atties notoriously useless for TC but bear in mind that TC relies on resistance change and you don't want any loose/lousy components produce any of it but the wire itself.
Built:
I would start with single spaced coil on a well known atty
Wire:
To start, I would do either A52(Nifethal 52, NiFe52(48 etc) or Stainless Steel (304/316/410/430) or TiGr1
It is your call. All of these have advantages over the other but any of these is very good.
Ohms:
I would keep it above 0.1ohm, no matter what, the lower the TCR the higher the cold ohm I want to go
Process:
Make the spaced coil on a machine screw, or make a parallel coil on a coiler and simply undo the two coils and use one at a time
Do not dry burn the coils up to glowing if you dont have to, but pulse and warm up on low watt to dark orange for hotspot checking.
Perform a dry cotton test. It will give you a good starting point to see when your wick starts burning.
Finish the build, make sure it is well saturated, refine your temp limit as I suggested previously and you are in the game
P.S.:
If you do all this things on a dripper first you can nicely fine tune your desired temperature and explore how TC works, how it limits and cuts output as your wick is drying out
Last edited:
I will try
Health concerns/ issues/hazards I am aware of:
1., Nickel allergy: if you have, you need to stay away from alloys with high or any Ni content
2., Titanium dioxide forming on Ti when heated over 600°C. I personally don't know if it is a real danger/hazard or not but I am playing it safe and do not dry burn Ti in Kanthal sense but a controlled way. (You can find plenty on this in this thread or here)
SXMini:
With its manual TCR settings it can handle all the TC wires I am aware of so this part is covered
Atty:
You need an atty with reliable connection. I am not aware of atties notoriously useless for TC but bear in mind that TC relies on resistance change and you don't want any loose/lousy components produce any of it but the wire itself.
Built:
I would start with single spaced coil on a well known atty
Wire:
To start, I would do either A52(Nifethal 52, NiFe52(48 etc) or Stainless Steel9304/316/410/430) or TiGr1
It is your call. All of these have advantages over the other but any of these is very good.
Ohms:
I would keep it above 0.1ohm, no matter what, the lower the TCR the higher the cold ohm I want to go
Process:
Make the spaced coil on a machine screw, or make a parallel coil on a coiler and simply undo the two coils and use one at a time
Do not dry burn the coils up to glowing if you dont have to, but pulse and warm up on low watt to dark orange for hotspot checking.
Perform a dry cotton test. It will give you a good starting point to see when your wick starts burning.
Finish the build, make sure it is well saturated, refine your temp limit as I suggested previously and you are in the game
P.S.:
If you do all this things on a dripper first you can nicely fine tune your desired temperature and explore how TC works, how it limits and cuts output at the same time
Vapealone...as the liverpool fans say...you'll never walk alone! Thank you for your outstanding help!
Off to get the wires and wait for my SX mini to land in Cairo.
Cheers!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OK...after skimming through this thread I am convinced that a TC user needs an advanced degree in Physics!! With my degree in Political Science I shouldn't have ordered an SX mini on Black Friday.
Only if you intend to try and use some of the very low TCR wires. Use Ni200 and you will have a blast. That and the sweet spot vapes Ti work without issues.
Giving on ss for a little while, am going back to nickel. The vape I'm getting from ss is just nah...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What grade? SS430 has been performing flawlessly on my Reliant (adjustable TCR) and my Cloupor Mini Plus in Ti mode (200° offset).
I'm using the UD 316L, the SS wires available here are limited for now. I hope I'm able to get the SS430 variant, sounds very promising. For now I have to settle with my thunderhead nickel.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have been using this with great success:
Ti-Wire
It is not pure Ti, but a alloy of some sort, potentially with more Fe, but it has a decent TCR value and higher resistance, a magic combination for the DNA chip to work at its best.
Im sure it works just fine but it is only Gr2 Ti, ordinary, run-of-the-mill, out of the box Gr2. The TCR should be about the same as Gr1 within a hairs breadth. All of their BS about it being a special wire with magical properties is just an excuse to charge more money for it!
Yea...I don't think it is special, but is is not springy and seems to be durable and has a TCR value that works. I do think it is not pure Ti. I have not popped one and previously popped six pure Ti coils.
Sorry but I must respectively disagree with your post. Why? Because I would probably not be considered a novice. As a 3 year vaper along with being retired electronic technician so I know ohms law, watts law and how they apply to coils and mod limitations. I apply that electronic knowledge when ever I build a coil to insure that it is not only safe to use it is also safe to run on my hardware.
As I'm typing this I am vaping on a dual tiger coil that is 28 gauge Ni200 wrapped with .1x.8mm Kanthal ribbon wire on a DNA 200 mod. 12 wraps around 2.5mm arbor. Why do this? BECAUSE IT WORKS and works very well. It has been my experience that any coil that consists of twisted wires or wrapped wires such as a Clapton coil for the most part delivers better flavor than a coil that consisting of a single wire. This has held true for me when building coils with mixed alloys or when using the same alloy in a build. And knowing that working with Ni 200 only results in a weak coil that can sag with heat and touch a build post or more difficult to build and re-wick when necessary is a pain in the behind. Marrying Ni200 with another alloy makes sense. You end up with a coil with stiffer backbone, less tendency to be cut by the grub screws and a TCR that is high enough to to deliver accurate temperature control. Do I recommend everyone experiment with mixing alloys for TC just building complex coil builds? Absolutely NOT. There are many vapers you there that should not be using anything beyond prebuilt replaceable coils. Sadly we read about these individuals in the news quite often. However with some common sense, skill, knowledge about the limitations of your batteries and mod, you can really enjoy both flavor and clouds with a high degree of safety.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
- Locked
