Terminator RA Tank
- Thread starter SheerLuckHolmes
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Start by watching this video.
If what you have is a Terminator, this is how to assemble the rebuildable part.
Please understand that your description of the problem doesn't "fit" as there are no silicone pieces involved with the Terminator, post some pictures if you can and you will be helped if possible.
In my terminator,where the nut goes into the ceramic and metal I got a silicon seal,not an oring,this seal,when pressed(not to hard) slips inside the ceramic.
This situation causes a short. I tried to make a thin delrin spacer to keep those parts apart, but then I get alot of gurgling and floods.
I cant get it to work,I'm frustrated.
This situation causes a short. I tried to make a thin delrin spacer to keep those parts apart, but then I get alot of gurgling and floods.
I cant get it to work,I'm frustrated.
I'm not sure what you are trying to keep apart. Inside the ceramic is where the Positive post inserts from below the metal ceramic holder and the ceramic. Then a nut screws onto the post from inside the ceramic. This assembly screws into the Terminator base. After secured in the Terminator base the lock nut (Ring) screws onto the metal ceramic holder down until it meets the base. There is nothing that is supposed to be inside the ceramic except the post and the nut.
Steve
Just got my termc in the mail, quick boil in soapy water and then a rinse, made a coil and am vapin happy!!!!!
Besides my a7s this is one of the easiest coils to build (or I got lucky off the bat). Anyone on the fence about about getting this because your worried about nr wire it's really easy and no constant genny hot spots to fiddle with.
Besides my a7s this is one of the easiest coils to build (or I got lucky off the bat). Anyone on the fence about about getting this because your worried about nr wire it's really easy and no constant genny hot spots to fiddle with.
Just built my first mesh wick in my Terminator after a week of using it with a cotton wick. I'm quite new to all of this. This is the first mesh wick I've ever made. Followed the collective instructions of everyone on here, it took me about an hour. Toughest part for me is getting that R/NR wire threaded together. I made a couple mistakes midway through the process, one rather severe -- that nut that threads down over the ceramic needs to be tightened quite firmly if you don't want all your liquid to drain right out the bottom after you thread in the flow control and then loosen it again. I recovered from that somewhat messily. Saved most of the juice. Disassembled, reassembled.
My mesh wick is clocking in at 3.9 ohms, a bit higher than I'd like but nothing the Provari can't handle. I took forever making sure it had no hot spots.
Long story short...I am presently experiencing the best, most flavorful, airy, wonderful vapor I've ever experienced. Organic Root Beer Float by Virgin Vapor. I can't even chain vape it the way I want too -- it's too much! But the flavor is great. After a long learning curve through silica and cotton...I think I might be a steel mesh man.
My mesh wick is clocking in at 3.9 ohms, a bit higher than I'd like but nothing the Provari can't handle. I took forever making sure it had no hot spots.
Long story short...I am presently experiencing the best, most flavorful, airy, wonderful vapor I've ever experienced. Organic Root Beer Float by Virgin Vapor. I can't even chain vape it the way I want too -- it's too much! But the flavor is great. After a long learning curve through silica and cotton...I think I might be a steel mesh man.
Just built my first mesh wick in my Terminator after a week of using it with a cotton wick. I'm quite new to all of this. This is the first mesh wick I've ever made. Followed the collective instructions of everyone on here, it took me about an hour. Toughest part for me is getting that R/NR wire threaded together. I made a couple mistakes midway through the process, one rather severe -- that nut that threads down over the ceramic needs to be tightened quite firmly if you don't want all your liquid to drain right out the bottom after you thread in the flow control and then loosen it again. I recovered from that somewhat messily. Saved most of the juice. Disassembled, reassembled.
My mesh wick is clocking in at 3.9 ohms, a bit higher than I'd like but nothing the Provari can't handle. I took forever making sure it had no hot spots.
Long story short...I am presently experiencing the best, most flavorful, airy, wonderful vapor I've ever experienced. Organic Root Beer Float by Virgin Vapor. I can't even chain vape it the way I want too -- it's too much! But the flavor is great. After a long learning curve through silica and cotton...I think I might be a steel mesh man.
Ultimately it's not what you vape on or with, so long as you're not on "analogs".
I can't even imagine going back to "analogs" at this point. It would be like going from eating steak to eating my own... 
hello!
Read the whole thread and found some tips how to solve the issue with the crooked and discentered mouthpiece. I can't solve even after disassembilng and reassembling several times (screwing the inner housing hard, less hard (-> leaking)).
I'm using an additional plastic ring on the center post to make it shorter and I am also wrapping the minus wire around the wick and not placing it between nut and base.
I think it might be a bad adding on tolerances on my terminator-c?
Another problem I detected is that the top-nut is rather loose und not plain.
I think there is too much tolerance between the threads of top cap and top nut.
Could someone inscept if she/he got the same problem or if this is only concerning my atty?
Any ideas what else I can try to get this right?
Thank you.
Regards
werz99
Read the whole thread and found some tips how to solve the issue with the crooked and discentered mouthpiece. I can't solve even after disassembilng and reassembling several times (screwing the inner housing hard, less hard (-> leaking)).
I'm using an additional plastic ring on the center post to make it shorter and I am also wrapping the minus wire around the wick and not placing it between nut and base.
I think it might be a bad adding on tolerances on my terminator-c?
Another problem I detected is that the top-nut is rather loose und not plain.
I think there is too much tolerance between the threads of top cap and top nut.
Could someone inscept if she/he got the same problem or if this is only concerning my atty?
Any ideas what else I can try to get this right?
Thank you.
Regards
werz99
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dI have 4 Terminators and with one the ceramic housing was so much undersized that you could screw the mouth piece or the locking ring on the whole way cross-threaded with no effort. So when screwed into the base it was never centered due to poor fit. Try putting it together with out the nut for the positive wire and bottom o-ring, just the base and the ceramic housing assembly so you can "feel" the fit. If it can be screwed in quite far cross threaded effortlessly then the housing is the problem. At first I thought the base was machined wrong but it turned out to be the ceramic housing, all of them are a little sloppy but some are really bad. Post what you discover with it please.
I think that the collar on the tank top will screw in and level out once the mouth piece is centered, you can try putting the tank top, mouth piece, collar and it's o-ring together by themselves to check the fit of that area.
Maybe should also add that the one that I got with the undersized ceramic housing was not one that I had bought from Stormy's
I think that the collar on the tank top will screw in and level out once the mouth piece is centered, you can try putting the tank top, mouth piece, collar and it's o-ring together by themselves to check the fit of that area.
Maybe should also add that the one that I got with the undersized ceramic housing was not one that I had bought from Stormy's
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So I think this is the cause of my problem nr. 1 The ceramic housing can be moved in the base. It's only fixed, when I screw down the counter nut. When the wick with its wraps for the minus is in place I think that because of the little pressure and the tolerance the ceramic housing is pressed out of center.
Also liquid control has big tolerance when it is only opened a little - I think this is also caused from the too small ceramic housing.
Problem No. 2: Top nut sits not really in the top cap only when it is fixed without the o-ring. The o-ring is'nt fitting that perfect so it is also out of angle and can be moved around.
Thank you for the tip. What did you do? - Have you got exchange for the ceramic housing and did the replacement fit well?
Regards
werz99
Also liquid control has big tolerance when it is only opened a little - I think this is also caused from the too small ceramic housing.
Problem No. 2: Top nut sits not really in the top cap only when it is fixed without the o-ring. The o-ring is'nt fitting that perfect so it is also out of angle and can be moved around.
Thank you for the tip. What did you do? - Have you got exchange for the ceramic housing and did the replacement fit well?
Regards
werz99
OK this is just what I did, I took the ceramic housing out of my Tobeco Oddy clone. It is the only part in it that is made good. The Tobeco ceramic housing is better made as far as size goes than the Terminator's. I used that in one Term-C and for my other one I bought a genuine GG v2 part ready (the rebuildable assembly). You should contact your supplier and get either a replacement part if they have them or return the whole Terminator for replacement or refund.
If you bought it from Stormy's PM Cloudburst with your problem and include a link to your post.
If you bought it from Stormy's PM Cloudburst with your problem and include a link to your post.
Haven't read through this whole thrread, but is anyone having issues with the device sitting on their pv crooked? Meaning the 510 threaded bottom not sitting straight?
You should be mounting the base on your mod, then screw in the ceramic housing assembly until you feel it contact the positive post of the mod, perhaps tighten just a bit and then lock down the ring. This way the base of the Term is sitting on the crown of the mod's 510 connection instead of wobbling around on the mod's positive post. Watch the video , this subject is at 5 min.
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