The “Cola” Method Taken to Another Level That Works

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Princessdee

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I'm just a bit slow on the uptake, so forgive a stupid question...:confused:

Did you take the atomizer out of the metal case, and if you didn't (I hope, 'cause I'm not in the least mechanically inclined.:oops: I can kill a computer just sitting here reading:rolleyes:) did it hurt the finish at all, cause I want to order a pink one from Rob when he gets them in. I love Rob:wub:

Thanks so much again, everybody for your hard work.

Sam, that's the exact feeling I get when reading these forum. White coated people all running around; talking very excitedly in whisper. "This might just be IT":D
 
I suspect it might turn atomisers silver. Some people would pay extra for a pink and silver combo ;)

Seriously though, there's a good chance it might eat the paint job.

Taking the inner atomiser out is way too complex to even think about unless you own several toolboxes and a soldering iron. Which is a pity ...

ps: you should guess that white-coats will overlook the disappearing paint color ;) Oops, sorry for that oversight.

pp: Always where gloves when handling chemicals, never mix chemicals and always rinse very well afterwards. If not confident try the safe methods that do work a bit (sometimes work well if the atomiser is not toooo bad to begin with) - vinegar, coke or lemon juice.
 
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After rinsing and blowing out or drying, dripping about 4 drops of vaping juice into the atomiser and giving it a minute to seep in.

That's all :)

ps : it may take a few moments for the atomiser to resume normal operation after a wash, even if left to dry first as inside the heater coil may still hold some water.
 
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Gravity_Tester

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I was the poster who suggested that it was the phosphoric acid rather than any carbonic acid responsible for cleaning the element. If you can find a homebrew shop or bar supply store (or ask your local friendly barkeep), look for tap cleaner or similar. I used it to clean the metal poppet valves on my kegs-eats everything organic, ignores anything metallic. The nice thing is that the stuff that the brew shop will have is strong enough to clean metals, but won't *immediately* burn you if you spill some.

GT
 

Ramblin

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I was the poster who suggested that it was the phosphoric acid rather than any carbonic acid responsible for cleaning the element. If you can find a homebrew shop or bar supply store (or ask your local friendly barkeep), look for tap cleaner or similar. I used it to clean the metal poppet valves on my kegs-eats everything organic, ignores anything metallic. The nice thing is that the stuff that the brew shop will have is strong enough to clean metals, but won't *immediately* burn you if you spill some.

GT

Question - Do you have any idea the phosphoric acid content of tap cleaner?
 
A lot of care is required here. There are many different products that are 'Milkstone removers. This one looks most suitable - it is 56% a 75% phosphoric acid solution, so about half strength of ice machine cleaner, but it also contains a dye. Some other milkstone removers don't contain any Phosphoric acid but contain other agents that are prbably less than desirable. http://www.tractorsupply.com/wcssto...ontAssetStore/images/products/600/2214079.jpg

I caould not find an ingredients list for Jenolite. But I suspect it is thick and so would be difficult to rinse off fully.

Although both products might be ok with plenty of rinsing after, I think we should stick with the ice machine cleaner product that is 75% phosphoric acid as it is more pure and designed for food processing equipment.
 
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surbitonPete

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A lot of care is required here. There are many different products that are 'Milkstone removers. This one looks most suitable - it is 56% a 75% phosphoric acid solution, so about half strength of ice machine cleaner, but it also contains a dye. Some other milkstone removers dont contain any Phosphoric acid but contain other agents that are prbably less than desirable. http://www.tractorsupply.com/wcssto...ontAssetStore/images/products/600/2214079.jpg

I think we should stick with the ice machine cleaner product that is 75% phosphoric acid.

It's not that simple for everyone to find the ice machine cleaner product ....so I just posted a couple of possible alternatives to check out.

Disclaimer .....use at your own risk!
 
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Sure, I understand that, but the first is not a single product; only some types are phosphoric acid based.

I still believe that what we need is for a vaper supplier to make a totally pure phosphoric acid solution available ( 35% is available in general retail products and at over 10 times the strength of cola would almost certainly still be effective ).

I would suggest that a deep red natural food coloring such as cochineal could be added so that it cannot be confused with any juice and be sold in much larger bottles anyway - say, 150ml.
 
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StratOvation

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Use caution when handling a concentrated acid. Safety gogles or a face shield with impermeable gloves would be highly recommended. A plastic splash apron wouldn't hurt also.

Be careful that you avoid mixing phosphoric acid with Amonia, Caustics or bases and any type of organic peroxide or other strong oxidizers.

I'd suggest anyone wanting to use this to clean your gear take a second to google "Phosphoric acid MSDS".

Remember Phosphoric 75% is an acid and therefore very corrosive. If you soak an atomizer too long you may not have much of it left.

if you do chose to use it, a few good rinses with copious amounts of water should remove the acid easily as it is completely soluable in water.

Mike
 

surbitonPete

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Sure, I understand that, but the first is not a single product; only some types are phosphoric acid based.

I still believe that what we need is for a vaper supplier to make a totally pure phosphoric acid solution available ( 35% is available in general retail products and at over 10 times the strength of cola would almost certainly still be effective ).

I would suggest that a deep red natural food coloring such as cochineal could be added so that it cannot be confused with any juice and be sold in much larger bottles anyway - say, 150ml.

Yes I simply assumed people would check out which one is phosphric acid based when they realised there were several kinds. .
I agree it would be good if suppliers would stock it and make it easier for us to get it.

Disclaimer ......use at your own risk!
 
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Sun Vaporer

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Yes I simply assumed people would check out which one is phosphric acid based when they realised there were several kinds. .
I agree it would be good if suppliers would stock it and make it easier for us to get it.

Disclaimer ......use at your own risk!

Pete--You are in the UK--If you are looking for a Commercial Vendor--How about trying some of this:

OKSmokey Shop Electronic Cigarettes Nicotine Cartridge Liquid Refill

Madisvapor reported trying it:

The write up reported by her was as follows for the product:
Received the cleanser today.
Opened the top and took a smell - smells exactly like a nail varnish

Came with a leaflet including instructions. So in short:

WARNING
Highly flammable
May cause drowsiness / dizziness
Keep away frm ignition
Wear eye protection?

Instructions (in short too)
Use a ceramic surface as a work surface (i.e plate)
Paper tissues to absorb spills
Drop 10-12drops into the battery end of the atomizer, with the battery part on top.
Stand mouth down on tissue paper and allow 2-3 mins to penetrate into coils
Shake the chamber (vapurizer) to expel as much cleanser as possible.
Repeat all steps again.
Allow vapourizer to dry by leaving for at least 1 hour in a ventilated area.
Vapourizer is now ready to use.
Note that it is now completely free of liquid and needs to be dripped on vapourizer before use.

I have taken all these steps on to my dead RN4081 and EVO atomizers and still waiting for them to dry completely. So will try later.

So does anyone have an idea of what this cleanser could be? It smells like nail varnish, and is highly flammable.


Cheap to give a try. I did order this awhile back but it never hit my door here. She said it did not bring the atomizer back to life which I am not surprised as the coil connection was snapped, but that does not mean it may not have cleaned the coil and would work on one that still has a viable coil---have a look.----Sun
 
I have no intention whatsoever of selling it myself. I think it would be good for it to be available from our usual suppliers.

I know that in Sun's tests it took many hours to work thoroughly, although those attys were bad cases. However, perhaps a more dilute fluid would still be efficient enough. I suggest 5% for maintenance cleaning then 20% or 75% as a choice also, so perhaps 3 products. Of course, I would buy the 75% and dilute it myself, but others may prefer starting with the milder version rather than risk spillin it at 75%. I believe 35% can be posted; not sure about 75%.

ps: a reminder: cola is 2.5%
 
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