Any better after vaping for 5 to 10 minutes ?
ps : you can probably re-use the cleaner a number of times.
ps : you can probably re-use the cleaner a number of times.
The Cola Method Taken to Another Level That Works
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JDM--So you decided to take a crack at it---you are a brave sole stepping into the lab and going where no man or woman has gone before!!! Did you rinse the yeck out of it!!!!!! I did just let it sit. They were all penstyles 801's and RN4072's that had used VG--no PG. I am sure that coil is clear but you might want to soak it longer as there should be very little residual in there now and you also have to prime it up to the point of flooding it as the mesh is also totally cleared--let the e-liquid soak as it really needs a full prime-----Sun
I have an atomizer soaking in the nickle safe stuff as I type this. I figure I'll give it a 12 hour bath for the 1st attempt and see how it goes. Anyone else have results to report yet?
I picked up the small bottle of "regular" this morning, it was $10 in Edmonton, AB
Nuck, why did you get the "nickel safe"? (30% vs 75%) What did it cost?
Nuck, why did you get the "nickel safe"? (30% vs 75%) What did it cost?
Remember that PM I sent you about atomizer material? That's why
...I also figured if it's weaker then the worse case is I let it soak a bit longer.The bottle I got was 24 bucks with taxes and is 16 oz.
ive soaked my 901 atomizer with pure cleaner straight from the bottle. on my dura c, ive used the leftover liquid. both atomizers were brand new 2 weeks ago. 901 was soaked for about 11 hours and the dura c for 9. theres a slight decrease in performance on both of them before i immersed in the cleaner.
for the testing, i used the same flavor and strength with both batteries fully charged. after washing and priming both atomizers, the results there the same. no marked improvement. bear in mind that these atomizers were not cold or really wimpy to begin with, and as such, i simply did this as preventative maintenance.
and for people trying this, they might want to wash your atomizers really good. i washed mine for 5 minutes or so and vaped it with ry4 but there was a slight hint of weird taste that kinda made me gag. its hard to explain but it feels like swallowing a teaspoonful of generic unflavored mouthwash.
for the testing, i used the same flavor and strength with both batteries fully charged. after washing and priming both atomizers, the results there the same. no marked improvement. bear in mind that these atomizers were not cold or really wimpy to begin with, and as such, i simply did this as preventative maintenance.
and for people trying this, they might want to wash your atomizers really good. i washed mine for 5 minutes or so and vaped it with ry4 but there was a slight hint of weird taste that kinda made me gag. its hard to explain but it feels like swallowing a teaspoonful of generic unflavored mouthwash.
Where in Chicago did you buy it? I think I wanna give this a shot.
JDM--this is a good example of that the rinse needs to be very extensive. If you are going to try this experiment head to all warnings that this is not what the product is for, and that you are dealing with harsh chemicals that are dangerous, and could in fact harm you!!--that is why it was an experiment!!!!
I rinsed the atomizer for a good 15 minutes under running water and soaked it as well---a good boil would also be in order--If you are going to try to experiment--know the risks and do not do it if you do not what to assume them. Again this was an experiment that we did to see if a solvent could get the residue off the coil and not destroy the coil and abate build up of the residue build up of the coil. As I said from the start, we are not advocating this and it is an experiment that we are working with. Head to caution as this was and is an experiment and not a soultion to the problem. We are currently looking to do another one using a dilluted form of the solvent for maintence.----Sun
I use this stuff to clean out my ice machines at my stores all the time. According to the labels on my bottles, after you use it, I am to rinse off completely, then run it through an ice making cycle and throw away all the ice from that cycle. I usually run a couple of cycles to be sure. Ice tastes normal after that. The ice making cycle that the machine runs through doesn't use any heat, actually, it uses freezing water to rinse the machine through. The only heating part is when the ice is slightly heated to make it drop from the cube molds, much less that boiling point temperature.
Checking the label again after I read this thread, it has a warning about inhalation. Basically says that in small quantities it's not harmful. You're supposed to go outside for a while and clear out your lungs.
One thing to keep in mind is that some of these Ice Machine cleaners leave behind a "protective coating" on the metal parts to inhibit corrosion. I'm not sure what this is, but they say it's safe for ice making. I wonder if this coating comes off is you put your atomizer in boiling water? I would also wonder what happens to it when it's heated in an atomizer. Maybe it would be safer to burn the atomizer without inhaling for a while before using.
Here is some data from the MSDS sheet for the Nu-Calgon Nickel-Safe Ice Machine Cleaner google "Nu-Calgon MSDS:Nickel":
Stability - Conditions to avoid: Stable, none known.
Incompatibility: Strong bases, ammonia, chlorine bleach.
Hazardous Decomposition Products: Forced ignition of dried residues may produce oxides of phosphorus.
Conditions Contributing to Hazardous Polymerizations: Will not occur.
Number 3 would be the one that I would think is attributable here. Looking further...google oxides of phosphorus brings this passage from "jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/p4116.htm":
Phosphorus pentoxide reacts with moisture on body tissue surfaces to form phosphoric acid, which approximates sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acids in corrosive intensity.
Inhalation:
Inhalation produces damaging effects on the mucous membranes and upper respiratory tract. Symptoms may include irritation of the nose and throat, and labored breathing. May cause lung edema, a medical emergency.
Yikes. I think that before using it would be best to find out how to completely remove this from your atomizer after cleaning.
kevin
Checking the label again after I read this thread, it has a warning about inhalation. Basically says that in small quantities it's not harmful. You're supposed to go outside for a while and clear out your lungs.
One thing to keep in mind is that some of these Ice Machine cleaners leave behind a "protective coating" on the metal parts to inhibit corrosion. I'm not sure what this is, but they say it's safe for ice making. I wonder if this coating comes off is you put your atomizer in boiling water? I would also wonder what happens to it when it's heated in an atomizer. Maybe it would be safer to burn the atomizer without inhaling for a while before using.
Here is some data from the MSDS sheet for the Nu-Calgon Nickel-Safe Ice Machine Cleaner google "Nu-Calgon MSDS:Nickel":
Stability - Conditions to avoid: Stable, none known.
Incompatibility: Strong bases, ammonia, chlorine bleach.
Hazardous Decomposition Products: Forced ignition of dried residues may produce oxides of phosphorus.
Conditions Contributing to Hazardous Polymerizations: Will not occur.
Number 3 would be the one that I would think is attributable here. Looking further...google oxides of phosphorus brings this passage from "jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/p4116.htm":
Phosphorus pentoxide reacts with moisture on body tissue surfaces to form phosphoric acid, which approximates sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acids in corrosive intensity.
Inhalation:
Inhalation produces damaging effects on the mucous membranes and upper respiratory tract. Symptoms may include irritation of the nose and throat, and labored breathing. May cause lung edema, a medical emergency.
Yikes. I think that before using it would be best to find out how to completely remove this from your atomizer after cleaning.
kevin
What I have noticed is that once the black deposit is gone, a thin white/grey film can be seen which goes after vaping for 5 minutes or so leaving the coil shiny. Although I did not notice any bad taste, it might come from that secondary deposit, presumable a short-lived product of the cleaning reactions that the juice seems to remove.
Interestingly, Exogenesis noticed the same thing after a clean with H2O2.
A few minutes of 'vaping' without inhalation after priming would perhaps be a good idea - easier with a manual of course.
Interestingly, Exogenesis noticed the same thing after a clean with H2O2.
A few minutes of 'vaping' without inhalation after priming would perhaps be a good idea - easier with a manual of course.
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Kevin - just seen your post. Yes, phosphorous salts or oxides might be the white film, or they might be some other salt.
If we stick with phosphoric acid, we need to be sure that the pentoxide is not what is left in the atomiser after washing and rinsing. It is most likey not the pentoxide but a non-water soluble salt as the pentoxide reacts with water.
We might need to consider an extra step - a soak in something than can remove those. Experience suggests an alcohol might wash off this deposit, such as Vg, PG, ethanol or isopronanol.
Perhaps an organic acid such as citric acid or acetic acid would be a prefereble way forward. Of the two, citric acid offers the most power - can reduce rust as well as limescale.
If we stick with phosphoric acid, we need to be sure that the pentoxide is not what is left in the atomiser after washing and rinsing. It is most likey not the pentoxide but a non-water soluble salt as the pentoxide reacts with water.
We might need to consider an extra step - a soak in something than can remove those. Experience suggests an alcohol might wash off this deposit, such as Vg, PG, ethanol or isopronanol.
Perhaps an organic acid such as citric acid or acetic acid would be a prefereble way forward. Of the two, citric acid offers the most power - can reduce rust as well as limescale.
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Ann - these are two different things. A branded pectin based product may include a little citric acid but too little to be a good atty cleaner. One can buy citric acid at a pharmacy, it's a white crystaline powder that dissolves in water.
i bouught it at G&O thermal supply down northwest highway. it was no more than $12 with tax. the door says contractors only but they DO sell to the public. i used very little of it so if you want, i can sell you mine. =)
as for the janty dura, it didnt peel off the black paint or the janty logo after being submerged in the cleaner regular strength for 9 hours. hope that clears it up.
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Thanks for responding. I thought it might be something I could use on my atty.
I "accidently" disassembled a one-day old 901 atomizer today, and I noticed that the
nichrome coil had already developed a black crustiness to it. Out of curiosity, I went
to Radio Shack and bought a 4xAA battery box and a pack of batteries so that I could
see this thing in action. (I know that the 6 volts I was feeding it was higher than the
3.7v battery, and even the 5 volt USB, but in reading about Maddog's Magnum mod,
I figured that 6 volts was within an okay range.) I got this particular atomizer from
VaporStix, and, unlike the one I got from TW, the wick that the nichrome coil is
wrapped around is about an inch long - so that plenty of wick sticks out both sides of
the coil - making it very easy to work with nothing but the coil and wick removed
from its little white holder. Anyway, upon suppling power to the coil it fired up
bright red almost instantly, and I immediately cut the power. I then did it again,
but for a second or two longer. And what I noticed was that the black crustiness
was disappearing, burning off, and/or turning white. One more two second jolt
and 99% of the black crustiness was history.
So, what I am thinking is that this is essentially what the "cleaning cycle" is
supposed to do (but with a longer burn time rather than higher voltage). If so,
then perhaps the best way to clean the atomizer coil is to give it a few second jolt
of 6 volts every now and then.
Perhaps this is why Maddog never needs to clean his atomizer with his 7.2 volt
Magnum setup. He's basically frying off the crude with every puff. And since I
believe that he's been using the same atomizer for better than two months now,
this higher voltage obviously is not shortening the life of his atomizer.
Anyway, I am very new to all of this, and simply wanted to share my thoughts.
nichrome coil had already developed a black crustiness to it. Out of curiosity, I went
to Radio Shack and bought a 4xAA battery box and a pack of batteries so that I could
see this thing in action. (I know that the 6 volts I was feeding it was higher than the
3.7v battery, and even the 5 volt USB, but in reading about Maddog's Magnum mod,
I figured that 6 volts was within an okay range.) I got this particular atomizer from
VaporStix, and, unlike the one I got from TW, the wick that the nichrome coil is
wrapped around is about an inch long - so that plenty of wick sticks out both sides of
the coil - making it very easy to work with nothing but the coil and wick removed
from its little white holder. Anyway, upon suppling power to the coil it fired up
bright red almost instantly, and I immediately cut the power. I then did it again,
but for a second or two longer. And what I noticed was that the black crustiness
was disappearing, burning off, and/or turning white. One more two second jolt
and 99% of the black crustiness was history.
So, what I am thinking is that this is essentially what the "cleaning cycle" is
supposed to do (but with a longer burn time rather than higher voltage). If so,
then perhaps the best way to clean the atomizer coil is to give it a few second jolt
of 6 volts every now and then.
Perhaps this is why Maddog never needs to clean his atomizer with his 7.2 volt
Magnum setup. He's basically frying off the crude with every puff. And since I
believe that he's been using the same atomizer for better than two months now,
this higher voltage obviously is not shortening the life of his atomizer.
Anyway, I am very new to all of this, and simply wanted to share my thoughts.
I think this works when the atty is just a few days old, but by the time a few weeks passes and the deposit is both thicker and tougher, it will not work.
However, I think there could be something in the running hotter idea. I mostly use 4.8v on my mods. Can burn some juices though i found. Mith my own VG based juices it is fine. The 'cleaning cycle' may not work because it is not sufficiently frequent. There is always a chance that in doing this as a clean - hot with no juice - might be the moment the coil breaks; but it was probably about to expire anyway.
However, I think there could be something in the running hotter idea. I mostly use 4.8v on my mods. Can burn some juices though i found. Mith my own VG based juices it is fine. The 'cleaning cycle' may not work because it is not sufficiently frequent. There is always a chance that in doing this as a clean - hot with no juice - might be the moment the coil breaks; but it was probably about to expire anyway.
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Perhaps so, kinabaloo, but wouldn't this simply imply that this particular cleaning method should be done more frequently?
Yeah, kinabaloo, the wick or coil former is definitely a good inch long (unlike my TW 901 atomizer, which barely protruded beyond the ends of the coil). The extra wick was interlaced with the mesh on both sides.
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