The “Cola” Method Taken to Another Level That Works

[kinabaloo]

RjG experimented with this arrangement and found it makes the coil too wet. It obviously can work.

I have a 901 atty in bits at the moment and am wondering about using just the coil in a new arrangement. Just collecting ideas to test at the moment.

It's a reasonable idea re cleaning with a higher voltage quite frequently. Some people do run intermittently on a usb so these people's attys might be lasting longer - collecting that data could help answer.

 

[PhiHalcyon]

I'm certainly interested in improving the atomizer myself (since it has definitely been the weak link for me), but, if you have a coil with no wick, are you simply going to drip directly onto the coil?

 

[kinabaloo]

Not quite that basic

The main problem is not really the atomiser as such, at least the coil, it works ok. But the juice delivery is not consistent, can leak and because currently stored in the mouthpiece/cart, too small in capacity (so just a piece of polyester can hold in in place against gravity). These are the problems i wish to solve. I have one solution now but hope to improve the atomiser layout too. Rathe rthan relying on air flow to get a few droplets of juice to the coil I want to use a elctrical or perhaps mechanical method, preferably direct from the juice holder with no wicking at all, except perhaps to catch wayward droplets.

Seeing how long lasting (juice-wise) disposable cigars are arranged would ne interesting.

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Anyway, upon suppling power to the coil it fired up
bright red almost instantly, and I immediately cut the power. I then did it again,
but for a second or two longer. And what I noticed was that the black crustiness
was disappearing, burning off, and/or turning white. One more two second jolt
and 99% of the black crustiness was history.

So, what I am thinking is that this is essentially what the "cleaning cycle" Anyway, I am very new to all of this, and simply wanted to share my thoughts.

PhiHalcyon--That is correct--that was what the Cleaning Cycle was suppose to do--but the battery dictated when it was to occur and rotating batteries or using a usb passthough--the atomizer never really got the hits it was suppose to at the times it was suppose to. Problem with just using heat is that the residue is that it builds up why to fast for the heat to break it apart. I use a Manual switch on my 801's and hit it with high heat all the time by pressing the switch longer with the cartridge out. It simply will not break it apart. Even with one day of use----

Take cooking in a pan or the oven --just one time and you have a nasty residue that needs cleaning---I am convinced that only a solvent will keep an atomizer coil clean and give long life. Every cold atomizer I have does not work because the contact to the coil was compromised----Sun

 

[PhiHalcyon]

kinabaloo,

As far as an electrical juice delivery, it makes me think of an inkjet printer. If only our juice cartridges could be so neat and self-contained. Perhaps a chat with some inkjet printer engineers could prove fruitful.

Sun,

I had used my atomizer for one full day prior to my experiment, and it took the 6 volt jolt only a few seconds to burn off the black crude from the coil.
So, theoretically, maybe it's just that your 801 battery is simply not delivering enough volts to get the job done.

 

[kinabaloo]

Inkjets use ultrasonic piezo transducers. Small, cheap and ideal for wetting the heater coil consistently from a sealed (but refillable) juice container. On the battery side of the nichrome heater coil.

 

[PhiHalcyon]

kinabaloo,

It sounds like you have already been thinking along these lines. Have you managed to find some workable UPTs that would work with the voltages we now use? And/or what sort of juice containers may work, and how they'd connect to the UPT?

 

[kinabaloo]

The UPT needs a circuit to supply it with a hf ac signal. Need to find the freq range suitable for typical juice viscosities. Voltage range no problem. There are some scent emiiters that run of a single AA. That example has a few small holes that allow the liquid to pass to the emitter side of the plate ready to be ejected as a fine mist. The UPT is simply fed by a flexible pvc tube from the 'bottom' of the juice container. That could easily be made to hold one day's worth of juice.

A further idea I have based on this technology is discussed here : http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo.../10919-dial-flavor-technology.html#post170008

 

[PhiHalcyon]

A day's worth of juice "misted" at a back-plated nichrome coil that was slightly larger than the spray or mist pattern sounds like a great idea. Would the spray volume be fixed, or vary according to the length of drag? Either way, if you are already in the process of building one of these, you can add me to your First Buyers' List!

 

[kinabaloo]

Yes, that's it. The spray rate could indeed be variable (see link below); it makes sense that the transducer sprays so long as the atty is activated (heated).

I guess i do need to build it. Been talking about it for ages. It has so may advantages and allows some futuristic-sounding but actually just plain useful features such as this : http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-discussion/10919-dial-flavor-technology.html

That won't be this week, mind ...

 

[klum]

Another thought occured to me when reading that the thought was the residue was a carbon of sorts. We also use a product called "Carbon-off" on our baking pans. It's supposed to be for carbon build up you get on your pans and cooking equipment. The real draw if it works is that since it's used on baking pans and food cooking equipment used with high heat, there's a proven way to rinse it off. There's no worrying about using a product for something that it's not for.

discoveryproducts dot com

My atomizers are only a few weeks old, so don't have any to test on.

kevin

 

[kinabaloo]

klum - did you look carefully, with a magnifier and bright light? One day is usually long enough to get at least some deposits. It is not clear whether the deposits really are mostly carbon based, although that's what they look like. What are the ingredients?

 

[PhiHalcyon]

kinabaloo,

If not this week, then how about next? It took very little time for me to develope a strong preference for vaping my 24mg TW Coffee juice over the analogs, and now I just want an intelligently designed, hassle free device that will consistently enable me to exercise this preference. Nonetheless, the various mixing possibilities would seem to be a logical and interesting next step.



HAZARDOUS DECOMPOSITION PRODUCTS: At high temperatures, this product decomposes to give off hydrogen chloride gas and small quantities of other
toxic and irritation vapors such as phosgene.

 

[PhiHalcyon]

That last line was from the MSDS sheet for Carbon-off. It also mentioned a few carcinogens. I'm not sure I'd want to use this product, but if anyone tries it - rinse, rinse, rinse!

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Another thought occured to me when reading that the thought was the residue was a carbon of sorts. We also use a product called "Carbon-off" on our baking pans. It's supposed to be for carbon build up you get on your pans and cooking equipment. The real draw if it works is that since it's used on baking pans and food cooking equipment used with high heat, there's a proven way to rinse it off. There's no worrying about using a product for something that it's not for.

discoveryproducts dot com

My atomizers are only a few weeks old, so don't have any to test on.

kevin

Kevin--I have not heard of this product, but will take a look at it--I wonder if this is like an oven cleaner based product---I will post the link for you----Sun

www.discoveryproducts.com

 

[klum]

klum - did you look carefully, with a magnifier and bright light? One day is usually long enough to get at least some deposits. It is not clear whether the deposits really are mostly carbon based, although that's what they look like. What are the ingredients?

Look at the pic that was posted of the after photo of the atomizer? My understanding on reading the topic was that it was black to begin with, then became whitish after. I'm only a user of the product, definitely not a chemist, so I'm not sure what chemicals react with what. I do know that our pans get baked on carbon deposits that this stuff removes. I don't have any atomizers that are that bad or that I would like to take apart (only have 2 right now and would hate to kill one). Just thought that I'd throw this out as a carbon remover. At least you know it washes out completely and is safe. Whether it works for this type of buildup is unclear since there is no clear notion of exactly what the build up is.

Here's from the MSDS sheet:
Chemical Name/Common Name: CAS No. PEL TLV
*METHYL ALCOHOL 67-56-1 200 PPM 200 PPM
*DICHLOROMETHANE 75-09-2 TWA 500 PPM 25 PPM
*AROMATIC HYDROCARBON 108-88-3 TWA OF 100 PPM (375 mg/m3) TWA OF 50 PPM (147 mg/m3)
ETHANOL 64-17-5 1000 PPM 1000 PPM
ETHANOL, 2-BUTOXY 111-76-2 25 PPM 25 PPM
AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 7664-41-7 50 PPM 35 PPM

Here's instructions: similar to what many of the tests have done:
Leave CARBON-OFF! ® on appliance for 15 minutes or as long as 5 hours, depending on the thickness of carbon grease build-up. Leave overnight if convenient. Test with small wooden stick to see if carbon is completely loose, DO NOT SCRUB! When carbon is completely loose, wash under cold water tap using a bristle brush or ScotchBrite pad. CARBON-OFF! ® will not harm any metal surface, brick or glass no matter how long it is left on. CARBON-OFF! ® may also be used to clean the inside of appliances. Before using appliance be sure to wash thoroughly with warm water and soap, then rinse thoroughly with potable water.
NOTE: Do Not Use On (or place appliances to be cleaned on) painted surfaces, acrylics, corian sinks and counter tops, analon surfaces, calphalon or teflon non-stick pans.

kevin

 

[Sun Vaporer]

klum - did you look carefully, with a magnifier and bright light? One day is usually long enough to get at least some deposits. It is not clear whether the deposits really are mostly carbon based, although that's what they look like. What are the ingredients?

Kinagaloo--As we saw with the Ice Maker Cleaner experiment, there was no visible residue. So how is it that we know that what we are dealing with is carbon as carbon would in fact leave a deposits behind. Does VG or PG in fact leave a carbon residue? Or are we dealing with something else---Sun

 

[kinabaloo]

Looks to me as though the action of this is to 'unstick' carbon deposits. I doubt it will be of great efficacy for our purposes and the chorine containing organics are a little worrying. But it's always good to at least think over the possibilities.

Juice delivery - less intervention, greater consistency and no leakage/wastage/need to blow out - that's the key task to address now. Bigger battery / usb is easy and done now (and the standard internal batteries will soon catch up with new battery technology advances).

 

[kinabaloo]

Sun - I have written a lot on this earlier in the thead. Basically, my take now - not carbon/little carbon - is based entirely on your observation that the concentrated phosphoric acid completely dissolved/reacted away the deposit leaving no black particle residue. Hence, can't be carbon as carbon is inert to acids (at normal temps at least).

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Sun - I have written a lot on this earlier in the thead. Basically, my take now - not carbon/little carbon - is based entirely on your observation that the concentrated phosphoric acid completely dissolved/eacted away the deposit leaving no black particles. Hence, can't be carbon as carbon is inert to acids (at normal temps at least).

Kinabaloo--What do you think of this idea. What if we took some of the Ice Machine Cleaner and instead of soaking the whole atomizer--we just applied it under the bridge and directly on the coil and let it sit--then washed it very throughly. I have been thinking that there is no need to soak the entire atomizer, but rather just pooling the ceramic holder in the atomizer with the solvent as the coil is the culprit. This way the mesh is not impicated by the harshness of the cleaner and the rinse is much easier as once the coil is fired up--the coil would burn off any remainder, if there is in fact any---Thoughts?---Sun