The “Cola” Method Taken to Another Level That Works

[kinabaloo]

Sun - that takes me back to an idea I had long ago. The original 'cleaner juice' was to work in just that way. It could even be made a little ticker with something like pectin or gelatin to stay in place.

A small device, perhaps nothing more than a pipette squeezer thingy could be available to enable atomiser firing as part of the clean in such a model. Would be very economical too

The cleaner may well not get to the coil though without vaping action pulling the liquid from mesh to coil.

Another possibility it to to cap off one end so it can be almost filled with cleaner without needing a complete bath.

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Sun - that takes me back to an idea I had long ago. The original 'cleaner juice' was to work in just that way. It could even be made a little ticker with something like pectin or gelatin to stay in place.

A small device, perhaps nothing more than a pipette squeezer thingy could be available to enable atomiser firing as part of the clean in such a model. Would be very economical too

Kinabaloo--I would be willing to step up to the plate again for another experiment, but what would you suggest here for this gelatin mix---what is it and how would I make it as I could insert it into the atomizer with a large syringe? What would you suggest as a base for the solvent?--Sun

 

[exogenesis]

When I was testing the H2O2 boil-in-place method, I was putting the liquid directly on the coil,

But I think there's very little chance of any cleaing fluid not moving into
the metal mesh, after all that's the central design purpose,
- ie to move liquid between the coil wick and the mesh 'reservoir'.

 

[Sun Vaporer]

When I was testing the H2O2 boil-in-place method, I was putting the liquid directly on the coil,

But I think there's very little chance of any cleaing fluid not moving into
the metal mesh, after all that's the central design purpose,
- ie to move liquid between the coil wick and the mesh 'reservoir'.

exogenesis--The coil sits alone in the creamic holder under the bridge of the 801. Why do you think the mesh would be implicated if we pooled the solution under the bridge as there is no mesh there to begin with--thoughts?--Sun

 

[kinabaloo]

Surly you should clean both. But no need to put the whole thing in a bath. Just fill up the atty after closing one end.

I'm out of juice guys, so i'll catch up tomorrow ...

 

[exogenesis]

Looking at the (901) ceramic pot in front of me,
there are two holes in the 'base-plate' where the coil wires go through,
and four holes around the circumference,
which allow liquid too move to the coil wick from the metal mesh
- usually when you take a drag I assume.

But the distance between the 'base-plate' part of the ceramic that the
coil sits on (near), and the 4 holes is very small 1.5 to 2 mm max.

Point is I think any liquid dropped in there is almost bound to get to the metal mesh?

 

[exogenesis]

Maybe if you ran the coil hot, and just put in tiny amounts of cleaner,
it would affect only the coil before it boiled away - or is that what you meant?

Not sure if that would be sensible for phos-acid.

And anyway I was thinking you probably do want to clean
the metal mesh as well as the coil (but probably not as intensively).

Certainly any left-over dark coloured viscous e-liquid is difficult
to completely remove from the mesh.
I could see this being bleached out (H2O2) during cleaning, even
though the whole thing was hot water then IPA washed beforehand.

(gotta run, work beckons )

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Looking at the (901) ceramic pot in front of me,
there are two holes in the 'base-plate' where the coil wires go through,
and four holes around the circumference,
which allow liquid too move to the coil wick from the metal mesh
- usually when you take a drag I assume.

But the distance between the 'base-plate' part of the ceramic that the
coil sits on (near), and the 4 holes is very small 1.5 to 2 mm max.

Point is I think any liquid dropped in there is almost bound to get to the metal mesh?

exogenesis--the 801 has only the 2 holes that you mention that go through the ceramic pot and out to the wiring of the battery thread--So the mesh on the 801 would not be implicated. I see no problem with the mesh being cleaned as well, but the coil is what I think the real problem is. I will give it a go, and then dismantle it and see how it worked and report back on this experiment--Might be an easier way to go rather then bathing the whole atomizer---Sun

 

[StratOvation]

As I do not have any fouled atomizers or a sample of the carbon-like residue, It is difficult to help troubleshoot a remedy. My past experiences with many industrial cleaners has revealed a common propensity for these cleaners to become much more effective when heated.

I'd suggest heating your cleaning solution to a range of 175-180 degrees f. Then carefully (using a pipette or sryinge) flush the preheated solution through the atomizer (maybe over a coffee filter paper to see if any insoluables are being removed) a few times. Once no more crud is being flushed away, Rinse thouroughly with 175-180 degree f distilled/purified water. If that fails to work....

One of the best USP grade cleaners I've ever used is "CIP 100" manufactured by Steris. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if it is available in small containers. We use it from 55 gallon drums. It is formulated with a KOH base and various detergents. It rinses completely away, as our Pharma equipment has to pass a chemical validation swabbing to prove no residuals are left on the surfaces.

If anyone has some samples of the material or a few fouled atomizers that they dont mind parting with, PM me for my address. I have access to a commercial lab, full of chemists who get a kick outta this sort of challenge, where I can test some ideas in a safe environment.

Mike

 

[exogenesis]

How cowabunga batman,
80'C 75% phosphoric acid - you'd better have a safe environment.

But more seriously, I think SunV has some spare 'clogged' atomizers,
would he be willing to offer these up on the altar of improved cleaning?

I've shown previously that boiling 46%w/v NaOH (with added bleach & detergents)
dissolves away the deposit, but at the risk of significant extra clogging of the metal mesh
with newly created precipitates, that might need an even harsher acid treatment to remove.

All in all, it's a conundrum, certainly a serious lab investigation would be very welcome

 

[Di]

here is a challenge for you lab guys.......

make some good juice from easily available ingredients....

pg -- vg -- tobacco - distilled water.

make it in a med-12mg and hi-24mg strength........

make it so it comes out the same reliably each time......

make it so we all can do it at home from easily available ingredients, and utensils.......

no ultrasonic straining filters, or nuclear weighing scales......


if you can do this, you will be our hero,
and many of us would pay $$$$ for the recipe
after it was reviewed and reccomended by
a trusted reliable member.

Di .......

 

[Tin Cup]

Back to the Ice Maching Cleaner...

I got some of the nickel-safe, because I could buy a 16oz bottle instead of a gallon. After soaking for 24 hours, I can see that it's making progress, but still has a long way to go. Since SunVaporer had much better results, it looks like the regular stuff works better.

BTW, a huge thanks to all of you who are working so diligently to figure this out. There are MANY of us lurking here who can't wait for you to get this ironed out!

TC

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Back to the Ice Maching Cleaner...

I got some of the nickel-safe, because I could buy a 16oz bottle instead of a gallon. After soaking for 24 hours, I can see that it's making progress, but still has a long way to go. Since SunVaporer had much better results, it looks like the regular stuff works better.

BTW, a huge thanks to all of you who are working so diligently to figure this out. There are MANY of us lurking here who can't wait for you to get this ironed out!

TC

Tin--Be very careful there you brave soul and know the inherent risks--this was only an experiment. We are now looking at dilluted forms and other solvents as well--remember you are dealing with a harsh acid that can be dangerous so heed to all saftey warnings and know the risks involved if you are going to experiment. As we stated--we are not advocating its use and it was only an experiment---Sun

 

[surbitonPete]

Back to the Ice Maching Cleaner...

I got some of the nickel-safe, because I could buy a 16oz bottle instead of a gallon. After soaking for 24 hours, I can see that it's making progress, but still has a long way to go. Since SunVaporer had much better results, it looks like the regular stuff works better.

BTW, a huge thanks to all of you who are working so diligently to figure this out. There are MANY of us lurking here who can't wait for you to get this ironed out!

TC

Hey there tin cup...haven't seen much of you lately....didn't think you were still here.....I am still waiting to get a bit of phosporic acid cleaner...although I am starting to think it's going to be another cleaner that gets mixed results though. ...I think we may need some research on the flavour's being used as well because that could be something to do with all the varying reports.

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Hey there tin cup...haven't seen much of you lately....didn't think you were still here.....I am still waiting to get a bit of phosporic acid cleaner...although I am starting to think it's going to be another cleaner that gets mixed results though. ...I think we may need some research on the flavour's being used as well because that could be something to do with all the varying reports.

Pete--It will be interesting to see if PG or VG's residue in fact cleans up better with any of these solvents or if it is in fact other ingerdiants--Sun

 

[surbitonPete]

Pete--It will be interesting to see if PG or VG's residue in fact cleans up better with any of these solvents or if it is in fact other ingerdiants--Sun

Yes Sun...there could be something in the mixes that makes a difference to what cleaning method works or doesn't work .....especially when you take into account all the different flavourings.

 

[Tin Cup]

Tin--Be very careful there you brave soul and know the inherent risks--this was only an experiment. We are now looking at dilluted forms and other solvents as well--remember you are dealing with a harsh acid that can be dangerous so heed to all saftey warnings and know the risks involved if you are going to experiment. As we stated--we are not advocating its use and it was only an experiment---Sun

Sun - I'm glad to see you (and others) keep warning about the possible dangers of what we're doing. I, like you, am taking all kinds of precautions.

On the thread about DIY e-liquid, there's a sticky about the possible dangers of vaping "unknowns". Maybe we need one of those for this thread? Can one of you Super members get this done?

Also, for those experimenting...

I use straight PG - no flavor, no nicotine, just PG. (Using the patch for my nicofix). I've tried cola, lemon juice, salt, denatured alcohol and even contact cleaner. I've let each one soak 2 or 3 days, with nothing taking a dent out of the residue.

The nickel-safe liquid ice machine cleaner finally seems to be making progress after 24 hours, but I'll post again tomorrow and we'll see what's happening.

TC

 

[Nuck]

25 hours in the nickel safe solution with a 410 (pilot) atomizer

This atomizer has been in daily user for 1 month (100% dripping and many of the thicker home flavors like root beer)

-Atomizer is shining again
-Vapor is better than when it was new (it wasn't bad when I decided to clean it but there is noticeable improvement)
-No signs of any damage to the black finish

All in all, it seems to have worked quite well. Atomizer came back after rinsing and priming within about 1 minutes of hitting it.

This particular atomizer was crackling so hard when ever I used it that it would trigger the battery and keep going (forcing a cut-off). Whatever the cause, it seems to be completely gone now after the soak.

 

[StratOvation]

How cowabunga batman,
80'C 75% phosphoric acid - you'd better have a safe environment.

But more seriously, I think SunV has some spare 'clogged' atomizers,
would he be willing to offer these up on the altar of improved cleaning?

I've shown previously that boiling 46%w/v NaOH (with added bleach & detergents)
dissolves away the deposit, but at the risk of significant extra clogging of the metal mesh
with newly created precipitates, that might need an even harsher acid treatment to remove.

All in all, it's a conundrum, certainly a serious lab investigation would be very welcome

Exo,

Good point. I was refering to the nu calgon cleaner, I sholud've made that clear...my bad

A 5-10% dillution to start with at the elevated temps. may work better than a stronger concentration at ambient temp. I've found that ~80C is the magic number for many types of detergents, even at fairly low concentrations.


Di,

If I (or anyone else) could do that, I'd also be able to fly, repel bullets and turn water into wine... At that point money would pobably be way down on my list priorities.

Regardless of what anyone tells you... It is simply not possible to extract a "High purity" form of nicotine at home with a few common ingredients in a couple of pots and pans.

I've got nearly 25 years production experience in the Fine Chemical and Pharmaceutical industries and I certainly would not consider attempting to "homebrew" my own nicotine extract. The risks are far too great for my liking.

Mike

 

[StoneE4]

25 hours in the nickel safe solution with a 410 (pilot) atomizer

...snip...

All in all, it seems to have worked quite well. Atomizer came back after rinsing and priming within about 1 minutes of hitting it...

Good to hear, Nuck.

I assume you used the Nu-Calcon Nickel Safe Ice Machine Cleaner?

Or was it a nickel safe solution made by another company?