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use a pipe cutter designed to cut 1/8-7/8 OD I found mine online for really cheap:
1/8-7/8 pipe cutter - Google Search
1/8-7/8 pipe cutter - Google Search
LOL...
Hey call me cheap, why spend 14.95 + 4.49 = 19.44 when I can take 5 minutes and make one out of an old atty or better yet an old battery, a little longer and easier to handle. Have plenty of those.
I do want to thank you, I also have never seen nor knew that such a device existed also.
Now I am wondering if the 8.8mm hole it make would be a tight enough seal.
I know 11/32" is good as indicated by TNT which is equivelent to 8.73mm So an 8.8mm should be ok.
Well I will try the atty punch tommorrow and let yall know how it worked.
Thanks for the input and the info!
Dan
I've found that it's unneccessary to completely cut the CE2 tube. I cut 2 small holes in the side @ 1/2" from top and bottom, then assembled the tank around it. I spaced the bottom seal just below the bottom hole I made in the cartomizer, and the top hole I made rides below the seal at the lid. I also found grommets on the rack @ Home Depot that work well to seal the hole in the lid. They are marked Price Pfister. They have a tapered hole on one end that I position on the bottom/inside of the lid. I will post pics tomorrow, as I have prior engagements shortly...
I stop well short of both numbers, but that's just me. Everyone has their own idea of how much stability is needed; that's why I don't post "make opening X.XX mm". If it works for you....it works.
Also, here's another bottle mod using a 99 cent spray hand sanitizer bottle from CVS. The plastic is much thicker and the composition is MUCH harder....there is zero "give" in the walls of the bottle so the gasket has to be just right. 1/2" OD (00) bottom gasket and the top is a 1/2" (#7 on the box) This one holds approx. 2.5ml.; if you want to hold more, just cut the bottle bigger. The lid has a double wall which holds a round gasket really well; just pop it in. I've used a beveled 00 and a flat one. The beveled is much more difficult to fit and the flat seems to be quite stable; but the choice is available.
I've been working on the design; on and off (mostly off) for a while. It dawned on me I could use the Bottle Tank Mod and attach the collector tank to it. I simplified the air feed and everything fell into place. It's still a PITA to mod the atty, but it's working really well.
Since it's using the Bottle Mod, I'll post it here instead of opening a new thread.....The Atty Auto Feed Attachment
So far it's passed all the tests...feeds really well, stable, no leaks, etc. The is one of those times where simplyfing was the answer.
Since it's using the Bottle Mod, I'll post it here instead of opening a new thread.....The Atty Auto Feed Attachment
So far it's passed all the tests...feeds really well, stable, no leaks, etc. The is one of those times where simplyfing was the answer.
Ok my XL's have not come in yet so I figure I would play with the standards. I did get my washers and used the modified battery case as a hole punch. Works perfectly. i.e.:
I also used a beveled washer under the lid to center and seal the heating coil, so I can turn it any direction with out leaking:
Once I filled it and fitted the top washer, it was pretty much sealed and does not leak:
This is the finished product:
I can either use the syringe to fill or pull the washer out of the top and quick fill.
Very simple mod to do, cant wait for the XL's to come in
Dan
I also used a beveled washer under the lid to center and seal the heating coil, so I can turn it any direction with out leaking:
Once I filled it and fitted the top washer, it was pretty much sealed and does not leak:
This is the finished product:
I can either use the syringe to fill or pull the washer out of the top and quick fill.
Very simple mod to do, cant wait for the XL's to come in
Dan
Last edited:
Ok my XL's have not come in yet so I figure I would play with the standards. I did get my washers and used the modified battery case as a hole punch. Works perfectly. i.e.:
View attachment 33015View attachment 33016
I also used a beveled washer under the lid to center and seal the heating coil, so I can turn it any direction with out leaking:
View attachment 33017
Once I filled it and fitted the top washer, it was pretty much sealed and does not leak:
View attachment 33018
This is the finished product:
I can either use the syringe to fill or pull the washer out of the top and quick fill.
View attachment 33019
Very simple mod to do, cant wait for the XL's to come in
Dan
Very nice work dan. cool..
Not to start a "feeding frenzy" here, but an atty auto feed mod? .... OH MY! GREAT JOB, Parallex2!
Can you elaborate how you modified the 510 Atty, are you drilling a small whole in it like we use to do for the original GG AFS tank ? or what Parallex2, could you be a little more specific exactly how you have this working without the Atty flooding for all of us so we can try to make this. I to have been working on a 510 tank mod a little bit different than this actually a lot different but very simple, the problem is not getting the 510 to flood as well as keeping the correct pressure in the tank so it feeds exactly perfect on each pull you take to get a great vape, anything you could tell us here on what I'm asking would be a big help, ARE YOU getting a perfect vape every time continuously or are you having to keep messing with this set up you have. Thanks
I agree simplifying is the answer I'm doing the same thing, or trying to, but how did you simplify ? how is it feeding exactly without flooding or going dry.?
First, it's a 901; not a 510. I wouldn't try it with a 510. The 901 has one hole on the side of the tube...easy to work with.
There is not perfect vape and certainly not a perfect vape every time with anything. Think about it...do you draw exactly the same each time every time? It sounds like you want a device to compensate for your variances. If perfect is your criteria you'll enjoy an exercise in futility. What it does is pull juice into the atty and keeps it wet for an enjoyable vape. It hasn't flooded on me yet with a variety of 80/20 and 70/30 ejuices, but it does start to lean out if I outdraw the feed. When that happens I "crack" the top which allows more juice into the atty.
I took pics of the parts and will upload along with a brief explanation, as best I can, of how it works. Then if anyone wants to give it a go they can make it and mod whatever changes they want to suit their wants and needs.
Here's an overview of the atty feed and a few pics.
Take the bottle mod and measure the length of the bottle against the length of the 901 atty.
You'll want to match the two so the top of the atty is at least to the top of the lid so the drip tip will fit.
Make sure the bottom of the bottle is as flat as possible. Since the old air hole will be covered by the bottom gasket you'll have to drill a new one farther up the tube. Drill the hole close to top fo the gasket with the 901 in place so it will feed as the juice level gets low in the bottle. I used a 5/64" drill for all of mine. If you use thicker or thinner juice you might have to drill a smaller or larger hole.
Using the same bottom gasket, make sure the atty is a snug fit with the 901 in place. The top part is done.
The collector tank is the real build on this mod. Since the atty's air hole is now a juice feed, air will have to come from another source.....through the center hole in the atty connector.
Take an old carto tube and cut it to the length you want....it's not critical; I like to keep it as short as I can so the entire length won't be so long. After cutting the tube, prep both ends to receive a 510 atty connector and a 901 battery connector. Cut a slot in the side of the tube so air can come in there and up the tube to the atty in the top portion. Here's where experience comes into play. Cut it large and the draw will be loose; smaller and less air comes in so the draw is tighter. The tighter the draw the more juice gets pulled into the atty. I'd copy what I did and then you can adjust to suit how you like it later.
Solder a wire onto the center post of the 901 connector making sure you dont' block the hole....air has to travel up through it. Next, flow solder into the two air holes on the side of the 510 connector. Press both connectors firmly into the tube with the red wire feeding through the center of the 510 connector. Now solder the wire and seal the hole in the 510 connector. The 510 connector is now completely sealed so no air or juice can come in or out.
Take a 12ml syringe and cut a piece the length of the collector tank tube, making sure the ends are flat and level. Take a 1/2" or larger OD flat rubber gasket and grind out the center hole until it's larger than the diameter of the 901 connector. The hole size isn't important because the only purpose this gasket serves is to seal the top mod to the collector tank when you screw the two together. Using a 1/2" gasket, grind out the center hole until you can fit the collector tank tube snugly into the piece of syringe.
With the large flat gasket between the two pieces, screw the collector tank to the atty in the bottle mod.
It's important you seal the two pieces as tightly as you can so you control the amount of air that is fed into the top portion. If the two are sealed, you can make adjustments to the collector tank tube or more likely the atty juice feed hole.
Any excess juice will flow down the center of the atty into the collector tank...that's why I haven't experienced flooding. It doesn't matter that some of the juice gets into the tank because the 510 connector is fully sealed. IOW, the juice isn't going anywhere and there's nothing it can hurt by being there.
Fill the bottle mod and screw on the top. Insert the drip tip and you're ready to vape. If you draw too fast and it gets lean, just unscrew the cap until the air equalizes and juice will be pulled into the atty. Tighten the lid and you're back in business.
That's it. It's not perfect; nor will it ever be perfect.
This version is much better than previous ones because I stopped trying to manipulate the air flow and simply made the flow consistent. With consistent air flow the adjustment I need to make is with the juice feeder hole. It was a constant change the air and now have to change the feed and then back to changing the air. It was more trouble than it was worth.No more...again; just one adjustment as long as I have the two sealed up tight.
I'll make a few more to compare; especially with thicker ejuice. I have some 100% VG so it will be interesting to see how much different it is to the ratios I've run so far.
Hope this helps and best wishes if you decide to give it a go.
I saw a brief video from a guy..Sub Something; can't remember his name because he yanked the video about 10 minutes later. I'm not sure what he was shooing for, but the concept looked sound; just the execution wasn't there. Maybe that's why he pulled it; dunno. Anyway, I'm just a modder so I want to give him credit as soon as I get his screen name.
Take the bottle mod and measure the length of the bottle against the length of the 901 atty.
You'll want to match the two so the top of the atty is at least to the top of the lid so the drip tip will fit.
Make sure the bottom of the bottle is as flat as possible. Since the old air hole will be covered by the bottom gasket you'll have to drill a new one farther up the tube. Drill the hole close to top fo the gasket with the 901 in place so it will feed as the juice level gets low in the bottle. I used a 5/64" drill for all of mine. If you use thicker or thinner juice you might have to drill a smaller or larger hole.
Using the same bottom gasket, make sure the atty is a snug fit with the 901 in place. The top part is done.
The collector tank is the real build on this mod. Since the atty's air hole is now a juice feed, air will have to come from another source.....through the center hole in the atty connector.
Take an old carto tube and cut it to the length you want....it's not critical; I like to keep it as short as I can so the entire length won't be so long. After cutting the tube, prep both ends to receive a 510 atty connector and a 901 battery connector. Cut a slot in the side of the tube so air can come in there and up the tube to the atty in the top portion. Here's where experience comes into play. Cut it large and the draw will be loose; smaller and less air comes in so the draw is tighter. The tighter the draw the more juice gets pulled into the atty. I'd copy what I did and then you can adjust to suit how you like it later.
Solder a wire onto the center post of the 901 connector making sure you dont' block the hole....air has to travel up through it. Next, flow solder into the two air holes on the side of the 510 connector. Press both connectors firmly into the tube with the red wire feeding through the center of the 510 connector. Now solder the wire and seal the hole in the 510 connector. The 510 connector is now completely sealed so no air or juice can come in or out.
Take a 12ml syringe and cut a piece the length of the collector tank tube, making sure the ends are flat and level. Take a 1/2" or larger OD flat rubber gasket and grind out the center hole until it's larger than the diameter of the 901 connector. The hole size isn't important because the only purpose this gasket serves is to seal the top mod to the collector tank when you screw the two together. Using a 1/2" gasket, grind out the center hole until you can fit the collector tank tube snugly into the piece of syringe.
With the large flat gasket between the two pieces, screw the collector tank to the atty in the bottle mod.
It's important you seal the two pieces as tightly as you can so you control the amount of air that is fed into the top portion. If the two are sealed, you can make adjustments to the collector tank tube or more likely the atty juice feed hole.
Any excess juice will flow down the center of the atty into the collector tank...that's why I haven't experienced flooding. It doesn't matter that some of the juice gets into the tank because the 510 connector is fully sealed. IOW, the juice isn't going anywhere and there's nothing it can hurt by being there.
Fill the bottle mod and screw on the top. Insert the drip tip and you're ready to vape. If you draw too fast and it gets lean, just unscrew the cap until the air equalizes and juice will be pulled into the atty. Tighten the lid and you're back in business.
That's it. It's not perfect; nor will it ever be perfect.
This version is much better than previous ones because I stopped trying to manipulate the air flow and simply made the flow consistent. With consistent air flow the adjustment I need to make is with the juice feeder hole. It was a constant change the air and now have to change the feed and then back to changing the air. It was more trouble than it was worth.No more...again; just one adjustment as long as I have the two sealed up tight.
I'll make a few more to compare; especially with thicker ejuice. I have some 100% VG so it will be interesting to see how much different it is to the ratios I've run so far.
Hope this helps and best wishes if you decide to give it a go.
I saw a brief video from a guy..Sub Something; can't remember his name because he yanked the video about 10 minutes later. I'm not sure what he was shooing for, but the concept looked sound; just the execution wasn't there. Maybe that's why he pulled it; dunno. Anyway, I'm just a modder so I want to give him credit as soon as I get his screen name.
thanks, I got lots of hands on experience with that pipe cutter Friday night at Vapefest~!
I'd like to hear about Vapefest, Lynleestar. Busy weekend for me, but please do tell.
In short....it's awesome!
I'll type up a full report when I'm not busy having so much fun~!
I'll type up a full report when I'm not busy having so much fun~!
very nice work Parallax, the mods both look great. If you ever need a hand to help with any of these let me know. I would be glad to come over and lend whatever help I could.
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