Scubabatdan... For everyone having trouble with cutting the bottom you have the perfect answer.
The whole time I was reading this thread I was thinking.... Why go through all the hassle just drill a hole in the bottom and push the assembly in from the top. Problem Solved. I have an Ego and some CE2's coming tomorrow and I plan on building one of these immediately. My wife works in a pharmacy so I should be able to find all of the parts I will need for $0 except for the washers. I plan on using one of my deep-well sockets to push the washer and CE2 into the bottle.
Just thought however that if your bottle is to long you will still have to cut the bottom off the get the correct depth. But then again I guess you just need to make your top tube longer. I believe my 3ml syringe is the prefect diameter to make the tip.
One question... With your design of the two washer cap - How hard is it to remove to refill?
If your bottle is to long, you can use a gutted 901 atty (Which is longer than the 510 attys) to give additional length to meet the silicon cap, or you could use the plastic tube cut to length to make up the extended differance.
I do not remove the two washers to fill, I use a 18ga 1.5" needle and slide it into the fill groove. With 10ml of liquid I only have to do this every 4-5 days.
Dan...just a few questions...
1) With the depth of the bottle left, by just cutting a hole to drop the cartomizer through, how are you getting clearance/contact when attaching to the provari, without cutting off airflow? The "edge" of the cartomizer looks flush with the rubber gasket, not the bottom edge of the bottle? I have a provari and with the MapTank I have very close tolerances there..just wondering?
2) Is there a particular reason you didn't use the screw-on top on this? It's missing in your "final" pic.
3) Any reason why you can't just stack the flat washers or does it have to be the cone-shaped ones?
4) And as bstedh asked above, how hard are these to just pop the washer/drip-tip out and refill?
Thx for all your answers in advance!
1) The bottle matches flush with my provari, I take care not to "Crank" it down, just until it seats. I have had to unseat and reseat it a couple time to get the airflow I like but it works fine for me.
Added: I almost forgot, if you place the bottom washer bevel side towards the provari, it gives additional length to the atty connector. Since the washer is beveled the cone of the washer comes a little way father out the bottom adding length to the atty connector. I had been playing around with this but have not assembled one that way yet.
2) I did not use the screw on cap because the sealing edges inside forces the washer too far into the bottle IMHO. If the air tube (either a 510 gutted atty, or cut to fit plastic tube from the CE2) is flush with the washers, then you could use the cap. Just have to watch how close the tube gets to putting pressure on the two extruding side wicks.
3) I suppose you could use flat washers, I use the beveled washers because they are thicker and they hold the tube in place better while providing a beveled look to the top when seated.
4) I do not remove the two washers to fill, I use a 18ga 1.5" needle and slide it into the fill groove. With 10ml of liquid I only have to do this every 4-5 days.
Hope this helps, I am working a step by step assembly video...
Dan
