I just recoil when it needs cleaning. I rewick several times and then just recoil. Takes about 2 min to recoil an Evod. I do not dry burn my coils.
30-32 ga Kanthal is cheap.
The end of microcoils?
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30-32 ga Kanthal is cheap.
I so love welding, and envy those who do it well. There are so many different stainless steels, and they all behave differently. "Ferrite" refers to a different crystal structure of the metal - just a different arrangement of the iron, nickel and chrome atoms (among others). Most stainless alloys are "Austenite". Ferrite can't dissolve as much carbon as austenite, and so ferrite pushes carbon out of the crystal, where it forms carbides, which are hard little particles which have a tendency to break when you deform the steel. When they form in the heat affected zone of the weld they can make it brittle. They can also make it corrode more quickly.
The oxide that forms on Kanthal when you heat it is more like the rust that forms on a non-stainless steel. Except that this in this case it protects the metal much better than iron oxides do, which are generally very porous.
Never "snapped " a coil yet. I do test em all with my handy dandy Fluke meter. And my elcheapo Ego batteries are blow proof. Had a piece of metal fall doen in the 510 connector of one. It just flash the led when I pressed the button. Hmm finally spotted the little sliver down in there and pried it out and the battery has worked fine ever since. A VV evod battery that came in a $7.95 Evod clone blister pack. 650 ma battery, Evod clone tank and charger. Been using about 2 months...
Here's what I want to know:
Where the heck are Bill Nye and Neil deGrasse Tyson when you need them?
Guys? Got any answers for us here? Hello?
Where the heck are Bill Nye and Neil deGrasse Tyson when you need them?
Guys? Got any answers for us here? Hello?
Speaking of Stainless, would you mind giving your quick thoughts on SS317L being used as a vaping wire? As you may know, it was first introduced to the market by G Plat (or maybe that was the brand name, I forget) who marked it as a "miracle vaping wire" for $Stupid per foot, until it was later discovered to be normal welding wire, or near enough.
I've recently started testing it after hearing some positive reports versus Kanthal - in terms of its usability, strength etc. My preferred wire vendor (Crazy Wire) in the UK have started stocking it under the brand name TMC (at good prices, though still slightly more than Kanthal.)
And as of today I've also started using it for TC vaping, since I recently got a new Temp Control mod that can modify the Temperature Coefficient of Resistance. I understand the coefficient to be 0.00094 for SS304 - not sure for SS317 but am assuming its similar - ie about one sixth that of Ni200, so unusable without setting a lower Coefficient on the mod, but it's vaping quite well now I've adjusted the coefficient. And much nicer to work with than Ni200!
Anyway, TLDR: what are your thoughts on SS317L vaping with regard to safety of vapour? It doesn't have Kanthal's oxide layer I suppose, so is that a negative?
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I'm happy for you, and like I said, I hope it never happens to you. It never happened to me, until it did.
But that's ok, you keep on believing that repeating the tootle puffer mantra will protect you from any possible harm. If it's no concern to you, why post?
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Do you make spaced coils? I remember that when I tried to rebuild my stock coils (Kanger), there really was no way to pulse an unwicked dry coil without risking burning the insulator--unless you used NR-R-NR wire. So I always wicked and wet the wick first and then pulsed to see how the coil was doing--and hoped for the best. But since I moved up to RBAs, I always pulse my coil before wicking and wetting it to see if it glows from the inside out.
Yep spaced but tight about 1 wire width between each coil is how they turn out. yeah do not want to burn the insulator. I keep hearing of "snapping"a coil. I have yet to have one burn open on me, they just get gunked up and I replace em. I have 15 spare heads and when I get 10 or so needing to be rebuilt I just rebuild them.
Usually while watching some vaping reviews on youtube
Rebuilding 10 heads takes me about 20 min including cotton wicking.Yes I can see the reason for it at higher wattages and larger gauges but see no problems with a spaced coil and no dry burning at lower wattages.
Why post? to let others know that this is not really an issue at low wattage vaping.
And just cuase I like posting
Mantra? I know of no tootle mantra.
Well, I don't see any reason for it at higher wattages--lower gauge wires require more wattage to come to vaporizing temps quickly--the principle is the same. Your 32g wire heats up and cools down almost instantly at 6 or 7 watts...
But that's a different conversation altogether. Somewhat off topic.
My thought on the higher wattages is that any hot spot is likely to become an issue where at the lower wattages it is not likely to become an issue. I may be totally off base on that though.
Why post? to let others know that this is not really an issue at low wattage vaping.
And just cuase I like posting
Mantra? I know of no tootle mantra.
But this is what is so Huge about what Dr. F said in OP Post. That Anyone who is Dry Burning a Coil is in Someway making it More Hazardous.
I just don't know to many People who do Not Dry Burn a New Coil when they Build. I know I do.
And whereas I might feel better about using Lower Watts on a 1.1 Ohm Coil with regard to VG Break Down, what Dr. F is implying seems to Apply to Just about Everyone who Builds their own Coils.
And that is why I am Very Surprised that there is Currently No Supporting Information included with his Statements.
No, it doesn't seem to be an issue for your style of vaping. I'm sure there are plenty of low wattage vapers who do glow/dry burn coils. I would be one of them.Why post? to let others know that this is not really an issue at low wattage vaping.
And just cuase I like posting
Mantra? I know of no tootle mantra.
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I'm afraid you are--just a bit.
Wattage is just a number--you need to consider other factors. You need way more watts to heat a thick coil than you do to heat a thin one to the same temperature--the temperature that will properly vaporize your eliquid.
You also need almost twice the wattage to heat up a dual coil than you would to heat up a single one of the same resistance--our dual coils are configured in parallel. I can easily vape a 1.5Ω DC Kanger atty at 11 or 12 watts, but I can't vape a stock 1.5Ω single coil at that wattage.
I'm sure somebody will be here soon to explain it better.
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For a stainless steel, 317L is very oxidation and corrosion resistant. The lower temperatures of TC vaping certainly play in its favor. BUT, we have to remember that it isn't designed for use as a electrical-resistance heating coil. Neither is cp titanium or nickel 200, for that matter. If used CAREFULLY (no intense pre-oxidation), I PERSONALLY would be comfortable using it. My biggest concern would be possible corrosion from e-liquid vapor at ~400C wire temps. It concerns me because I am not knowledgeable about it. I doubt that even the worst tank-cracker juice is corrosive enough to cause an issue, but I don't know that with any certainty. Personally, I use nickel 200. I use it solely because it's what my VS rDNA40 is calibrated for. Is it safe? Don't really know. But I haven't found a convincing piece of data yet that causes me concern.
Sorry for the waffling, but we really are living on the frontier. It's an unknown (and potentially dangerous) place. But we choose to be here.
The man destroyed half of my hobby today.
Vaping wasn't for me just about the harm reduction, it was fun as a hobby building coils, trying wicks and God knows what else.
Regards
Tony
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I'm afraid you are--just a bit.
Wattage is just a number--you need to consider other factors. You need way more watts to heat a thick coil than you do to heat a thin one to the same temperature--the temperature that will properly vaporize your eliquid.
You also need almost twice the wattage to heat up a dual coil than you would to heat up a single one--our dual coils are configured in parallel. I can easily vape a 1.5Ω DC Kanger atty at 11 or 12 watts, but I can't vape a stock 1.5Ω single coil at that wattage.
I'm sure somebody will be here soon to explain it better.
I'm just a simple welder but think that explanation was great and spot on.
I don't see why this such a big deal. I, since the beginning have always made contact coils and torched them.
Now with this new info I just changed my coil style. I make spaced coils( wrapped around a screw) with out torching or dry burning
for hot spots or legs I can easily check my coils after there wicked and primed with juice
If Dr F is saying not to torch or dry burn I think we should heed his warning
I switched all my coils today, my attys still vape like they all ways have and maybe there a little safer now
I don't see this as a big deal just change your coiling style is All
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