The M1A1 Buzz Tank

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markfm

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I've been using standard vapor4life coolcarts, NHaler jumbo 808 cartos, Ikenvape Fusion 801 cartos, no leaks in any of them, no flooding; these are normal single coil cartos, with poly filler. Not putting the side screw in too far is the one lesson learned, on the very first day, but other than that I haven't seen any leaks, with all-day use. I use the top fill that Buzz refers to, so I don't have to schlep a syringe to top off.

To do a top fill, loosen the side screw then pull down on the carto, until the top of the carto is a bit below the top seal. Hold a tissue on the bottom of the carto, then tilt the tank/carto at a slight angle, just fill up the tank with a normal dropper bottle. I end up with the tank almost completely full. Slide the carto back up through the top seal; the tank level will likely drop a little, when the eliquid enters the hole in the side of the carto. Reattach drip tip and blow through the carto to clear any elqiuid that got in it during the top fill (I rarely get any).

I use cartos with a slot, cut with a Dremel. My slots are much larger than the single punched hole in the COV picture, but I do only have the one slot, not two. I'm vaping a pretty thin DIY vanilla tobacco, 75% PG with some alcohol (the flavors in that mix have PGA).

When I'm not using it, the PV is sitting on my desk, and even with the liquid level above the drip tip hole I get zero leakage/flooding.

I'm wondering if there is something about the dual coil carto that is slightly different, else if the two holes are causing the problem. The COV DCT thread in that forum area has people discussing carto leak problems with the prepunched cartos, glancing at the last couple pages of the thread.
 
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captcpu

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maybe someone walk through their process of filling and vaping from start to finish in detail, and i can follow that and see if ti works.

I've had a few cartos do this on me (on both the M1A1 and another tank) and I'm pretty sure, at least in my case, it was the depth and size of the holes I cut. However, I was able to get them to stop leaking by pre-filling the carto a little bit, then inserting it into the tank and top filling the tank. I like the screw in the M1A1 because it holds the carto, but I don't use it for filling.

My theory? The hole in the carto creates a tiny gap, or I've cut the hole where there's a gap between the filler and the tube. That gap fills with liquid and floods out the bottom. Once it gets started, it just keeps going and siphons the tank. So, if that's the case, the trick is to pre-fill the carto so that the filler is puffing up and filling in that gap. That gives the liquid in the tank time to settle and create the equilibrium required to keep it all from flooding out the bottom hole.

Course, that's just a random theory. :)

What I do know is that it has worked four times. Carto leaks out all the liquid when I first cut it and fill the tank. Pre-fill the carto and do it again, and it works just fine.

I have gotten in the habit of filling the tank and placing it over an open e-liquid bottle when I use a new carto, so that if it does drain, it'll go right back into the bottle. 3 mils all over my lap the first time was quite enough for me.

It's one more thing to try...

Good luck!
 

Vermonster13

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The best way to fill these when using DCs is to flip the tank over and have the fill hole on the bottom. When you fill you hold the tank upside down and no juice can feed through the slot while filling. Put the screw back in before putting upright. This will create the vacuum and cut down any flooding potential greatly.
 

Modrod.

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does the 306 atty trick work in these tanks?

It should , you might need the 1" one ???? not sure/.
Yea, you would definitely need the 1" tank. I have a broken 306 with cap and I tested the size in my 1.5" tank and it's too short. I'm actually interested in trying the 306 tank set up with my M1A1. I need a 1" tube, the right size o-rings and a 306. I can't decide if I want to try a Cisco 3 ohm or a 3.5 ohm i06 though.
 

5cardstud

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Yea, you would definitely need the 1" tank. I have a broken 306 with cap and I tested the size in my 1.5" tank and it's too short. I'm actually interested in trying the 306 tank set up with my M1A1. I need a 1" tube, the right size o-rings and a 306. I can't decide if I want to try a Cisco 3 ohm or a 3.5 ohm i06 though.

What about a Fusion in the 1.5" tank? Is it too short? I know on the MAP Tank it uses a short piece of tubing in the end. I wonder if that would work.

BTW Lowboy I love that avatar of yours.
 
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