I tried boiling my button screw loose this weekend, to no avail. Was just for fun. I've gotten used to using it the way it is.
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Got my 18650 8W from 101Vape pretty quickly.
Fresh out of the box and disassembled in under a minute...
Lucky no glue F
yes!
That high polish is too much for me - I mean, it looks great if you don't touch it.
So I brushed mine with a brillo pad.
I'm really happy that this has a 510-battery (double) adjustable pin/s.
Fits perfectly in an 19 top cap too.
I did notice the scrunching noise when depressing the switch - when I had it all apart I checked to
see what was causing it. Seems to be just the circular machining cuts on the inside of the lock ring (as it made the noise with out the battery post or the spring) - causing like a ribbed rubbing. So I sanded it out a little and put a little lube on it (yeah, gun lube - Brian Enos Slide and Glide to be specific). No more noise - nice smooth action.
I don't know if mine came with a different spring, but it's not bad at all. Neither is the throw.
So, I left it alone for now and started my focus on hybrid mode.
I got this with hopes of lowering it - making it hybrid like.
I figured I could make something work.
But to my dismay - I didn't realize the top battery cap screws in over/around the battery.
No real room for an SG1 - or is there?
May be weird, but I tried this anyways.
And it works. AGI in drip mode.
Screwed half way into the sg1 and used the 8W center pin on the other side.
Using an 18490 Efest battery - obviously an 18650 wasn't going to work.
Not too shabby. But I wanted more. And that top cap made me mad.
As I was staring at my sg-1 creation and the 8w top cap - I checked to see if that top cap
would work upside down. Yep. So I screwed the 510 connection with delrin and all into the top of the
topcap.
And put it in basakwards.
Ooo looky looky
Since it fit and I knew I could use my SG-1 in strange configuration - if needed or just by another top cap for $10 (which actually maybe worth it just for those adjustable pins).
I cut the threads off the bottom of the top cap leaving it like this
Fits nicely
But then I found out that the atty wouldn't make connection with the 510 post even when the post was screwed all the way in.
Good thing for attys with adjustable center pins yay. Adjusted the post out on my RSST.
I took a pic of it firing just in case you don't believe me
Size comparison next to my lowered (sg1) 19 in 18350 with ithaka clone
Although sad that I could not make it work in 18650 - I'm still happy that it works 18500/490 ain't bad.
Other than that, I also added a bit of electrical tape inside the tube to take up some of that battery rattle slack.
Kinda surprised that they didn't build the walls thicker. The 19 inner tube will not work in this tube cuz it's not threaded all the way through; otherwise I could have used this in 18650.
I bought a 19E brass extension tube to see if I can make that work.
Fresh out of the box and disassembled in under a minute...
Lucky no glue F
yes!
That high polish is too much for me - I mean, it looks great if you don't touch it.
So I brushed mine with a brillo pad.
I'm really happy that this has a 510-battery (double) adjustable pin/s.
Fits perfectly in an 19 top cap too.
I did notice the scrunching noise when depressing the switch - when I had it all apart I checked to
see what was causing it. Seems to be just the circular machining cuts on the inside of the lock ring (as it made the noise with out the battery post or the spring) - causing like a ribbed rubbing. So I sanded it out a little and put a little lube on it (yeah, gun lube - Brian Enos Slide and Glide to be specific). No more noise - nice smooth action.
I don't know if mine came with a different spring, but it's not bad at all. Neither is the throw.
So, I left it alone for now and started my focus on hybrid mode.
I got this with hopes of lowering it - making it hybrid like.
I figured I could make something work.
But to my dismay - I didn't realize the top battery cap screws in over/around the battery.
No real room for an SG1 - or is there?
May be weird, but I tried this anyways.
And it works. AGI in drip mode.
Screwed half way into the sg1 and used the 8W center pin on the other side.
Using an 18490 Efest battery - obviously an 18650 wasn't going to work.
Not too shabby. But I wanted more. And that top cap made me mad.
As I was staring at my sg-1 creation and the 8w top cap - I checked to see if that top cap
would work upside down. Yep. So I screwed the 510 connection with delrin and all into the top of the
topcap.
And put it in basakwards.
Ooo looky looky
Since it fit and I knew I could use my SG-1 in strange configuration - if needed or just by another top cap for $10 (which actually maybe worth it just for those adjustable pins).
I cut the threads off the bottom of the top cap leaving it like this
Fits nicely
But then I found out that the atty wouldn't make connection with the 510 post even when the post was screwed all the way in.
Good thing for attys with adjustable center pins
yay. Adjusted the post out on my RSST.
I took a pic of it firing just in case you don't believe me
Size comparison next to my lowered (sg1) 19 in 18350 with ithaka clone
Although sad that I could not make it work in 18650 - I'm still happy that it works 18500/490 ain't bad.
Other than that, I also added a bit of electrical tape inside the tube to take up some of that battery rattle slack.
Kinda surprised that they didn't build the walls thicker. The 19 inner tube will not work in this tube cuz it's not threaded all the way through; otherwise I could have used this in 18650.
I bought a 19E brass extension tube to see if I can make that work.
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Man you gave it the business. I'm not tired of the shine just yet, but after seeing your results (with JUST a Brillo pad?) I might do the same to my China GG.....one day.
maybe not a brillo pad.
they are green scouring pads for like cleaning pots and pans - got a few at the grocery store for like a dollar or so.
like these SCOTCH-BRITE Scouring Pad, General Purpose, PK 10 - Sponges and Scouring Pads - 21XL15|96CC - Grainger Industrial Supply
better day light pic
...maybe not better. lol
they are green scouring pads for like cleaning pots and pans - got a few at the grocery store for like a dollar or so.
like these SCOTCH-BRITE Scouring Pad, General Purpose, PK 10 - Sponges and Scouring Pads - 21XL15|96CC - Grainger Industrial Supply
better day light pic
...maybe not better. lol
Thanks guys
I'm actually really liking this configuration so far.
There's ~ 0.6mm lip - but the brass "ring" distracts from that.
Doesn't bother me as much as the sg1 dropping the atty inside the tube lip.
I'm actually really liking this configuration so far.
There's ~ 0.6mm lip - but the brass "ring" distracts from that.
Doesn't bother me as much as the sg1 dropping the atty inside the tube lip.
the4thpower 3
Pure genius!!!
I admire your ability to fiddle with a gadget an make it 10xs better.
I bought the 8w with the 2 tubes, and an extra top (also wanted to ordered an extra bottom button) so I would have 2 clones.
I boiled loose the BB and shortened the throw. But I still wasnt happy with the large funky top cap.
You have made my day bud. After I seen what you had done to yours I was at the work bench with dremal in hand for a few min. and presto!!
I am now the proud owner of a 4thPower Hybrid!!
I will polish up the RSST tomorrow to match the 8w body.
A BIG THANKS!! For sharing
Pure genius!!!
I admire your ability to fiddle with a gadget an make it 10xs better.
I bought the 8w with the 2 tubes, and an extra top (also wanted to ordered an extra bottom button) so I would have 2 clones.
I boiled loose the BB and shortened the throw. But I still wasnt happy with the large funky top cap.
You have made my day bud. After I seen what you had done to yours I was at the work bench with dremal in hand for a few min. and presto!!
I am now the proud owner of a 4thPower Hybrid!!
I will polish up the RSST tomorrow to match the 8w body.
A BIG THANKS!! For sharing
mozzer did you take the button completely apart? bc I havent been able to take mine apart and I brushed the silver portions but I love the glass mirror on your brass accents. And does the polished tarnish faster or slower then after the polishing job?
just a tip the china GG is plating and will rub off and brass wil show on entire mod just so you know.
You can actually throw an o ring under that bottom button pin it will decrease the throw by raising the pin and not be permanent and no risk of over sanding the plastic.
Just take o ring from a ce5 mouth piece or any where slide it over that bottom pin push the button it should rest between the plastic and that knurled pin it raises the entire button shortening the throw with out permanent damage. If you need a video Todd did it with the 19 I think.
On a mnke 18650 underload with a .8 ohm build 3.98 off of 4.2 battery which is on par with many high end mods maybe not the best ones but definitely worth the money. Looks great too.
I've been wondering about that but didn't know what/how/where to ask, exactly. So thanks!
Maybe I'll leave it as-is and just give it a once-over with Simichrome. I've got some but I've never used
it. Might also get a few of those Cape Cod metal polishing cloths.
Maybe I'll leave it as-is and just give it a once-over with Simichrome. I've got some but I've never used
it. Might also get a few of those Cape Cod metal polishing cloths.
Sorry cowfood disagree I've held the ehpro caravela clone and its a wobbler. I even some forums say that the brass color is plated and is why the mirror brass looks stock. And its longer then the sigelei 8w at 18350 mode. I believe 6mm taller or so. Will not hold up on its own weight which I don't like. Not sure about volt drop but if it was a performer out of the box someone on YouTube would of posted it like tatters did for 8w. Todd did the review on ship wreck ehpro Cara clone it pretty terrible.
I own both. They both have wobble buttons - but so do a lot of high end mods, that cost significantly more.
Both will stand up unlocked without firing - but they do wobble; the Ehpro more so than the 8w, but that's because it comes with a much smaller, softer spring. I lock them both every time I set them down - cuz the wobble bothers me.
I shortened the throw on the Ehpro with an o-ring: now is 1.2mm (measured gap) throw - and very light.
The throw on the 8w is a bit stiffer and scrunchy. I sanded and polished the mating surfaces on the button and lock ring housing to smooth out the scrunchy throw - now smooth as butter. I also sanded the edge of the button a wee bit as it seemed sharp on my finger. I added an o-ring in the same place and the throw measures 1.05mm.
I used the same o-ring in both - very small and thin.
I hate the topcap on the 8w due to it's size and because I don't use egos on my mech devices.
I use em on my ego twists, cuz they don't look ......ed on them.
It is innovative, which is nice to see. I bet there are some ego users out there that like it. Good for them.
I wish they produced a short top cap without the ego threading and gave customers a choice.
The telescoping/double adjustable pins though are awesome.
Much better than the Ehpro's different size screws (just like the real caravela) - annoying as ......
The airflow on both devices for bottom air fed attys (I think) is insufficient.
I depended the grooves on the top cap of my Ehpro. But I turned my 8w into a monster.
The steel tube on the Ehpro has a .2mm thicker wall (they both have 23mm o.d.).
The 8w suffers from battery rattle due to this thin wall i.d. which is annoying as ......
So, the tube on the Ehpro (I assume is a bit heavier - I don't have an 18350 8w tube).
The Ehpro 18350 tube weighs in at 46.1 grams: tube is 50.15mm long, so that's 0.919 grams per mm
The 8w 18650 tube weighs in at 64.5 grams : tube is 73.10mm long, so that's 0.882 grams per mm
The brass base and top cap on the Ehpro is much thicker, bigger, heavier than the 8w also.
The 8w's brass parts are very thin and light weight.
The Ehpro's brass top and bottom cap are actually gold plated over copper.
The gold layer came off pretty easily. The copper too much longer. But the nice quality brass underneath it all is worth the effort.
Some correlate thicker/heavier to better...I think they could have cut some weight and size from the Ehpro.
It's not huge by any means though. It's about 6mm shorter than a 19 with nzonic top cap (in 18350 mode duh).
If you want a smaller 18350 device, you need and Nemesis or real Caravela (I just ordered new Nemesis clone from FT).
Oh, the threading on the Ehpro is better. But the 8W is not bad.
Litecig now carries both 18500 and 18650 tubes for the Ehpro.
I'd like to see an 18500 tube for the 8w - dunno why they didn't make em.
Price and availability - obviously the 8w wins. Especially since you can get the device with both tubes for half the cost of the Ehpro.
Along with vendors selling replacement parts for it.
I haven't found another vendor for the Ehpro besides Litecig - I think they are a little over priced.
Nice info the4thpower just curious have you done any voltage drop test on the mods? I've done mine on the 8W which was .17 on a .8 ohm coil, but never heard of numbers for the ehpro caravela clone. I do agree that ehpro make great clones I just think the 8W with great voltage drop numbers was the way for a budget modder like myself to go.
Your re-engineering was brilliant, the4thpower3. I would do it myself, except I'm not willing to tweak my atomisers' firing pins to accommodate it. Too bad that part didn't pan out so well. Still, looks much better than that huge top cap hybrid.
I still like the #8w. I have two and they're solid, reliable hitters while looking decent.
reign70, my voltage drop findings were similar to yours. dunno about the ehpro
I still like the #8w. I have two and they're solid, reliable hitters while looking decent.
reign70, my voltage drop findings were similar to yours. dunno about the ehpro
No, I don't do voltage drop tests on mech devices. I think the info and testing regarding voltage drops on mech mods is all bs.
Thanks Mozzer.
Actually I did all that the same day I got it...
So, since the RSST looked so good on it, I haven't felt the need to use anything else on it.
The lengths can be modified. I'm pretty certain it can be made to work with any atty.
But there is only so much length in the little adjust pins - and mine is almost maxed out.
Now, that only is pertaining to using an atty that is wider than the lip of that top cap.
There is that 2mm lip; the base of the well that is created measures about 18.5mm diameter.
So, any atty that is less than 18.5mm should work fine.
If you wanted to use an atty that is wider than that lip (wider than 18.5mm)
You have a 2.25mm drop that you have to make up for - that's how deep my well is.
There are a few solutions, which one would be to shave that lip down even more, but mine is already only 1mm thick.
but 0.5mm gets you that much closer.
Shave the delrin head down to make up another .25-.5mm
Shave the original 510 connector (which is now pointing towards the battery) a bit to make the center pin reach a little higher.
But like I said, I'm close to the limit on the small pin length adjusted almost all the way out.
Although you could always use a magnetic battery spacer to fill the gap and have plenty of room.
The center pin would still need to be moved up a bit to make contact with the attys connector; so the shortening of things would still have to be done.
Thanks Mozzer.
Actually I did all that the same day I got it...
So, since the RSST looked so good on it, I haven't felt the need to use anything else on it.
The lengths can be modified. I'm pretty certain it can be made to work with any atty.
But there is only so much length in the little adjust pins - and mine is almost maxed out.
Now, that only is pertaining to using an atty that is wider than the lip of that top cap.
There is that 2mm lip; the base of the well that is created measures about 18.5mm diameter.
So, any atty that is less than 18.5mm should work fine.
If you wanted to use an atty that is wider than that lip (wider than 18.5mm)
You have a 2.25mm drop that you have to make up for - that's how deep my well is.
There are a few solutions, which one would be to shave that lip down even more, but mine is already only 1mm thick.
but 0.5mm gets you that much closer.
Shave the delrin head down to make up another .25-.5mm
Shave the original 510 connector (which is now pointing towards the battery) a bit to make the center pin reach a little higher.
But like I said, I'm close to the limit on the small pin length adjusted almost all the way out.
Although you could always use a magnetic battery spacer to fill the gap and have plenty of room.
The center pin would still need to be moved up a bit to make contact with the attys connector; so the shortening of things would still have to be done.
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