The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

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cv96144

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I don't want to be the first to bring negative feedback but a friend just tried it on an aga-t using a glass fuse following breaktru's tip. While it steams like a train without the top cap on it produces no vapor at all when he places the cap in place. He tried various positions of the air hole.
What could we be doing wrong?
 

studiovap

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I don't want to be the first to bring negative feedback but a friend just tried it on an aga-t using a glass fuse following breaktru's tip. While it steams like a train without the top cap on it produces no vapor at all when he places the cap in place. He tried various positions of the air hole.
What could we be doing wrong?
The area around the top of the wick needs some room for airflow, either the tube or the wick or both,are too long, most likely, and the topcap is blocking airflow once it's screwed down into place.
 

emonty

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I don't want to be the first to bring negative feedback but a friend just tried it on an aga-t using a glass fuse following breaktru's tip. While it steams like a train without the top cap on it produces no vapor at all when he places the cap in place. He tried various positions of the air hole.
What could we be doing wrong?

so where is the vapor going then lol
 

Nurzrachit

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It is a short length that covers the exposed wick and does NOT go into the tank. The 4.5mm is the width which is a bit wide and is difficult to screw on the metal top cap without shorting the coils to the cap and center post. It's just a test. better to use what Dan is using, 3mm tubing.

But seems to a good reference point. got some tubing ordered yesterday.
 

slimest

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Heh, good idea - pyrex glass tube as both insulator and a heat distributor across the wick... If the wick has thin wall and big enough hole inside, should work reliably...
Only hesitation - what if the tube gets broken. Maybe to provide an output air filter, say, the same mesh?
 
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wesweswes

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was just thinking about compression rolling the 28awg to a flatter "tape" or all least oval form to optimize heat transfer to the Pyrex on a low ohm mechanical mod setup,
5/6 coil of nichrome on a 3.4mm wick or Pyrex tube is around 0.9 Ohms, and with the wire rolled/compressed flat it should work great with a variety of resistance wire gauges used for high watts on 3.7v mods.
Just my:2c:
Grrrreat Thread Dan.


Kanthal Ribbon .
halfway down page.
Resistance heating wire and resistance wire
 

bapgood

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I think flattening the coil wire to increase surface to surface area contact between the coil and glass tube is a good idea.

Some have made comments about protecting the coil with a shield or etc. If this protection is needed would a conformal coating like is used on pcbs work? I'm not sure of the CC temp ratings.

*Edit* The Wiki says CC temp rating is to low
 
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bapgood

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From above link

"Round and flat resistance heating wire and resistance wire with bright annealed or oxidized surface, depending on size. Round resistance wire sizes up to 0.40 mm (0.0157 inch) are available with insulation and coating."

So my question is.....If the kanthal is available with "insulation and coating" is the glass tube needed?
 

wesweswes

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I still dont get the point of doing this with ss mesh, after some practice you no longer get hotspots, with drill bit method its quick and easy to swap out wicks and the mesh is still in contact with the juice so there are no added 'health' benefits from this method. So what's the point?

is this just an isolation, if so it seems like an expensive time consumer!

Now, get rid of the mesh and we might have something here, but this i feel involves a totally different system of vaporising, ie liquid that pools in a pyrex dish with heat source underneath...i dont know, but just using it as an isolator to stop shorts seems daft.
 

Tanks

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I still dont get the point of doing this with ss mesh, after some practice you no longer get hotspots, with drill bit method its quick and easy to swap out wicks and the mesh is still in contact with the juice so there are no added 'health' benefits from this method. So what's the point?

is this just an isolation, if so it seems like an expensive time consumer!

Now, get rid of the mesh and we might have something here, but this i feel involves a totally different system of vaporising, ie liquid that pools in a pyrex dish with heat source underneath...i dont know, but just using it as an isolator to stop shorts seems daft.

I think it's to extend the life of the coil. I could be wrong, though.
 

Sedateme

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I still dont get the point of doing this with ss mesh, after some practice you no longer get hotspots, with drill bit method its quick and easy to swap out wicks and the mesh is still in contact with the juice so there are no added 'health' benefits from this method. So what's the point?

is this just an isolation, if so it seems like an expensive time consumer!

Now, get rid of the mesh and we might have something here, but this i feel involves a totally different system of vaporising, ie liquid that pools in a pyrex dish with heat source underneath...i dont know, but just using it as an isolator to stop shorts seems daft.

The one thing that stuck out in my mind from the videos was the insane vapor production. Not having to worry about hotspots (ever) is just a side benefit. Also, I think this may increase coil longevity... if the coil is never running dry (so-to-speak), it may go a lot longer before needing to be replaced. If this is true as well, all you would need is a new wick when the old one gets too gunked up to wick properly. Just some thoughts, may be way off on this.
 
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