The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick
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I agree on the real world wrap to confirm.
I looked at BJ43's link. That wire has ~same resistance as round 30g A1, but the ~ width of round 24g (using the wider side against the wick/glass). I used the 24g for coiling sizing estimates and then 30g for coil resistance. Not sure how accurate that would be, but I had the same concern as you about the coil becoming too long to use with a 2.5mm tube. Looks good to go!
Dan/Other
What are your thoughts on insulating the coil/tube to protect it and help force the heat into tube?
I'm thinking some kind of ceramic brush-able/dip-able product, even a simple mold. So the end product is something like the old replaceable soldering iron heating elements.
I think even the three chamber designs talked about will be susceptible to condinsated/excess juice.
What are your thoughts on insulating the coil/tube to protect it and help force the heat into tube?
I'm thinking some kind of ceramic brush-able/dip-able product, even a simple mold. So the end product is something like the old replaceable soldering iron heating elements.
I think even the three chamber designs talked about will be susceptible to condinsated/excess juice.
I was thinking about sort of a coil cartridge assembly...the coil wrapped on fused quartz inside a larger diameter ceramic tube and have the space in-between filled with that nasty sounding ceramic adhesive -BUT have ceramic washers for end-caps, so the adhesive stuff is all sealed inside. The leads would have to poke out someplace.
I was thinking along those same lines...but I'm afraid no matter how that stuff is used it could still be hazardous.
The below is interesting.....and I have some micro balloons....but I'm having a hard time finding any vape friendly high temp adhesive.
[edit]Micro balloons
One suggested alternative to commercial ceramic insulation is adding ceramic spheres (called "Micro Ballons" or "Microspheres") to inexpensive paint. "Micro balloons", also referred to as glass or quartz bubbles, are tiny hollow spheres that come in a large range of sizes and densities. Because the spheres are hollow and crush-resistant, they insulate, strengthen, stiffen, and add water-resistance to many surfaces. More on 3-M microspheres HERE.
Micro balloons are commonly used among radio-control aircraft enthusiasts, and are available from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co., or Wicks Aircraft supply, for under $10 per gallon.
[edit]How to mix and apply micro balloons
Aircraft Spruce lists three consistencies associated with micro balloons:
A "slurry", which is a one-to-one by volume mix of epoxy and bubbles.
"Wet micro", about two to four parts glass bubbles by volume to one part epoxy.
"Dry micro", about five parts glass bubbles by volume to one part epoxy -- enough to obtain a paste that will not sag or run.
Apply two coats. The painted surface will have a slight texture.
Wearing a respirator is suggested when handling micro balloons.
[edit]Hy-Tech micro balloon insulating additive
Hy-Tech Thermal solutions offers a ceramic sphere mix-in paint additive. According to them, their product can be mixed into ANY kind of paint, and, unlike other solutions, is specifically designed for thermal insulation.
It's unknown whether Hy-Tech's additive is the same as the micro balloons available from RC aircraft supply stores. However, Hy-Tech says that "A great majority of ceramic and glass 'microspheres' or 'beads' being produced today are for applications ranging from medical, electronic and every day household use each having different chemical and physical properties."
Hy-Tech has a research relationship with NASA, and was featured in a NASA publication devoted to highlighting technologies that were spun off from the space program (the additive was inspired by the ceramic tiles used to protect the space shuttle from the heat of atmospheric re-entry).
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IMHO.....there are two things I'm not sure I like.....one I think you want the FQ tube as short as possible for maximum heat transfer.....two unless the tube going into the top chamber is completely sealed I think you will get condensated/excess fluid following gravity down into chamber with coil
All the tubing I ordered is 3mm od, so 7 wraps of the flat should give me around 2 ohms. I really don't want to get wicks less than 2mm id of the tube as all my lab test showed very poor wicking with anything less than 2 mm.
This almost seems to easy....High temerature ceramic DIY extruder or: how I plan on distroying a microwave oven
I'm not saying to use the coil/microwave to cure the clay....but would it really be as easy wrapping the coil & FQ tube in fine pottery clay from hobby lobby and then get it fired in a kiln?
I'm not saying to use the coil/microwave to cure the clay....but would it really be as easy wrapping the coil & FQ tube in fine pottery clay from hobby lobby and then get it fired in a kiln?
The kiln thing would probably be cool, but it sure would be handy to find a high temp adhesive that was safe.
What about this 2800°F Resbond 920 Thermally Conductive Ceramic Adhesive?
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/ca_electricallyresistant.htm
It says it's used in heating element production. I'm not much of a materials safety guy, but at least I didn't see any mention of radioactivity in my quick scan of the MSDS, so that seems like an improvement over the other kind. Might be the same stuff rebranded for all I know, though
What about this 2800°F Resbond 920 Thermally Conductive Ceramic Adhesive?
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/ca_electricallyresistant.htm
It says it's used in heating element production. I'm not much of a materials safety guy, but at least I didn't see any mention of radioactivity in my quick scan of the MSDS, so that seems like an improvement over the other kind. Might be the same stuff rebranded for all I know, though
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I could be wrong but is it as simple as using some JB weld high temp epoxy to cover the coil and just let it have a good long cure before using it? As long as your not abrasive with it there is no worries of particles, that stuff is as hard as a rock. Does it give off fumes after its cured when heat is applied?
I couldn't find a true msds sheet....I had seen that too....and thought the same exact thing....probably similar to the other stuff
And similar to what mre777 said about jb weld....I wondered the same about the radioactive stuff.....if all that is still active once its cured????
But best to be on the safe side I guess
That looks great but im probably missing something and someone will come along and point it out
This looks safe and it seems you just order it from them. It for food related products. It says temps up to 450 F... how hot do coils get?
EP42HT-2FG Product Description | MasterBond.com
Nah to hard to get it would seem but i looked up some fireplace mortar and it doesn't look to bad. the msds on Rutland Fireplace Mortar doesn't say much
"*The silica in this product is totally encapsulated and thus present no inhalation danger to the user." this did catch my eye
awe its got Sodium Hydroxide in it. Damn it!!!!! Is nothing safe in this world!!!
EP42HT-2FG Product Description | MasterBond.com
Nah to hard to get it would seem but i looked up some fireplace mortar and it doesn't look to bad. the msds on Rutland Fireplace Mortar doesn't say much
"*The silica in this product is totally encapsulated and thus present no inhalation danger to the user." this did catch my eye
awe its got Sodium Hydroxide in it. Damn it!!!!! Is nothing safe in this world!!!
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In the spec, Kanthal and NiChrome have a maximum of 1200º C (it doesn't state if this is how hot it gets or whether that is what it can withstand); I don't think we reach anywhere near that temperature in the short time we fire the coils, what with the juice and wick stealing some of the heat, but I wouldn't use it to be on the safe side.
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Im gona try JB weld i think. Says non toxic after full cure and its good up to 500º. The high heat stuff is even higher and its a putty so it would be easy to work with, like a clay wrap to encapsulate the coil. If even after a extended cure it has a funny smell or taste when the coil heats up i will discontinue use but it couldn't hurt to try and see. I mean come on its used for everything else 
See my OP edit on this.
Someone posted at one point a link to a supplier that had 1/32" @ somewhere around 8Ω; I did not bookmark it and I'll be damned if I can find it again! All I can remember is that the site had a black background to it (yeah, I know; that's a lot of help). I'm going to try to track this down - I don't remember if it was posted in this thread or not (old age is catching up)
I don't remember who posted it either, I just still had the tab open on my browser for some reason.
Integrated Nonferrous Metals Company
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