You da man! I knew I remembered it being a black background. The first one listed was the wire I thought may be best for my applications, I don't know about you others. .
The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick
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You da man! I knew I remembered it being a black background. The first one listed was the wire I thought may be best for my applications, I don't know about you others. .
OK. Now I'm really anxious to get my capillary tubes in. Just ran a little wicking experiment with only 2 layers of 500 mesh outside of a 14ga needle. I do believe coil inside/mesh outside can work. Edison rolling over in his grave.
That sucks I liked the looks of this!
I found a ceramic insulating paint that was food safe and good up to 500*f (currently looking through my history to find it again....oops).
I don't think the temp to vaporize our juice is over 250*f but I know there is a heat loss between the coil and heating the tube/wick plus the cooling from vaporizing and etc. But at this time I will SWAG that the coil temps are less than 450-500*f. I found the Kanthal hand book and will muddle through it and see if I can come with some edumakated numbers
If you can source some micro balloons try mixing them in the JB Weld for one of the coils. Since your trying it any way
Oh boy...each time (several a day) I come to this thread, I take a deep breath.
I may have lost the sense of what various members are trying to do. It seems that some want to coat the coil over the tube (of questionable thermal transmission qualities?) in order to focus the heat inwards. I understand that, I think.
If a material is truly non-toxic, non-radioactive, etc. and has good thermal transmission qualities, can it not be possible to wrap the wick in (cigarette?) paper, coat that, wrap the coil on top and let the paper turn to ash? It really shouldn't take much thickness of a coating.
I may have lost the sense of what various members are trying to do. It seems that some want to coat the coil over the tube (of questionable thermal transmission qualities?) in order to focus the heat inwards. I understand that, I think.
If a material is truly non-toxic, non-radioactive, etc. and has good thermal transmission qualities, can it not be possible to wrap the wick in (cigarette?) paper, coat that, wrap the coil on top and let the paper turn to ash? It really shouldn't take much thickness of a coating.
Catch me up fellas. Like Cool_Breeze, I'm a little lost on what the ceramic coating use is for.
I would love to hear Dan chime in on this, and possibly others who may have experience in this.
But IMO there are two primary reasons to seal/insulate the coil. One is to seal the coil from juice and etc contaminating the coil causing inconsistencies and failures. The other is to try to gain heat transfer efficiency to the FQ tube, gaining overall efficiency and limiting the effect air has on the coil.
This wouldn't change anything Dan did, it would just add a sealing/insulating coating.
Hope this makes sense.
Actually I did this 2 /12 years ago, see post:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/351986-pyrex-ss-hybrid-wick-25.html#post7825895
I did not see an inprovement with or with out the ceramic coating, but it did help the coils from being juice coated due to splatter.
Dan
Unless someone has tried and has concluded an inner coil/outside mesh or cotton wick surrounding a glass tube is destined to fail, I'm going to give this a try.
Plan is to wrap the 1.5 mm tubes shown below with either 325, 400, or 500 mesh I have on hand and extend the tube surrounded by mesh into the dud tank.
To get current to the teeny tiny diameter coil that I'm going to attempt to stuff inside, I am going to connect an insulated wire to the bottom end of the coil, come out of the end of the tube that is down in the tank, then up and out the fill hole to ground. May do a similar connection for the positive, but I may be able to get away with just the Kanthal up top.
Thinking is maybe this approach will help with getting air to the vaporization surface in a more traditional genesis configuration, and if I can get away with only one or two wraps of wick around the tube, it should greatly improve response time. May even have some volcano action from the capillary tube to help wet the wick. Or flood it.
OD, 1.5 to 1.8 mm; approximate wall thickness, 0.2 mm. Length, 100 mm (ends open).Sold in vials of 100
Hey Big Screen, is the mesh surrounding the glass tube the entire way into the tank? I'm just wondering how the mesh would get juice. Wouldn't the juice draw up into the tube and just be boiled by the coil?
It doesn't look as though it is readily available to guys like us
And to add to what bapgood said, the coating should protect the coil from condensing juice and prolong its life and truly isolate so all juice is only vaporized with heat transferred through the FQ. Just gona experiment with it and see what happens.
You sir are brilliant! How about doing just that? Wrap the mesh tip where the coil will be in something nonporous (so as to not let the paint clog the mesh) and coat with something like this! A coat or two will be really thin and allow for good heat transfer then if you like coat the coil as well.
I'm..
The tube will be sealed except for a small void at the top to allow for air expansion. The mesh wrapped tube will go into the tank, that end sealed around no resistance wire back out through the fill hole to ground. Coil will be almost completely isolated from any juice or condensation, most of the heat from the coil will have to dissipate through the wet mesh.
The tube will be sealed except for a small void at the top to allow for air expansion. The mesh wrapped tube will go into the tank, that end sealed around no resistance wire back out through the fill hole to ground. Coil will be almost completely isolated from any juice or condensation, most of the heat from the coil will have to dissipate through the wet mesh.
Ok, I got you, now. You hadn't mentioned before that the end in the tank would be sealed. And hopefully enough room around that smaller tube to allow for wicking. Cool. Post results when you're done.
Edit: BTW, how are you planning to seal the end?
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Dan I did read that......
......I think I'm just bored waiting for glass tubeDan since you are the probably the only one with 3mm tube and have had a few days to put the ScudaQu through its paces.....How is it going?
Thanks for your ingenuity and sharing with the community.
That would seem to minimize the thermal resistance and lag. Perhaps even aluminum foil could be used assuming it doesn't mess with the wicking of the mesh. (BJ..?) We routinely use plain wicks over the mesh. Not coating the coil would allow for reuse...not boding it to the wick and coating...insert another treated wick into the coil. It may not dry burn as well inside a 'paint tube,' but maybe it would be okay with a prolonged burn. Let the poop-sheet fellows weigh in on the toxicity and/or vapor from the coating.
Lowes has about the same product by Rustoleam - Quart -
Shop Rust-Oleum Quart Interior/Exterior Flat Black High Heat Paint at Lowes.com
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Anyone try it from the inside out yet? General idea would be to use a fully isolated coil inside a hollow wick. That way the air blowing on the wick would not cool the coil and alleviate the "volcano" effect.
P.S. sorry for the kindergarten art. Lost my stylus so had to fat finger on the iPad. Yellow blobs would be some kind of plug (anyone know what type silicon could be used in the ends?)
P.S. sorry for the kindergarten art. Lost my stylus so had to fat finger on the iPad. Yellow blobs would be some kind of plug (anyone know what type silicon could be used in the ends?)
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Could maybe even eliminate the need for a coil by using:
38 gauge Kanthal D resistance wire
Maximum continuous temp- 2370 degrees F / 1300 degrees C
Resistance- 53.6 ohm/ft 176 ohm/m
Wire Diameter-0 .004" / 0.10 mm
Would give 1.5ohm on a straight 8.5mm (1/3 in) piece as a filament so a really thin FQ tube could be used.
38 gauge Kanthal D resistance wire
Maximum continuous temp- 2370 degrees F / 1300 degrees C
Resistance- 53.6 ohm/ft 176 ohm/m
Wire Diameter-0 .004" / 0.10 mm
Would give 1.5ohm on a straight 8.5mm (1/3 in) piece as a filament so a really thin FQ tube could be used.
I wouldn't think any more so than heat conducted through a normal SS wick as the coil would still be above the air chamber base and air chamber base might actually behave as a heat sink.
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