The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

Status
Not open for further replies.

TBinAZ

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 6, 2012
1,628
1,340
Mesa

dsy5

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
1,632
1,355
New York
Beta v0.2 of the Brass Clad SS Wick is up and going. It has 5/6 wraps of 30 ga. Kanthal. It appears the Rust-Oleum Specialty High Heat paint can provide sufficient electrical insulation for this to work...short-term, anyway.

As it is now, the 3/32" SS wick has additional SS wrapping to make it approximately fit the 5/32" interior of the 3/16" O.D. brass tube. The section I cut from the painted tube is about 3/16" high. There is substantial thermal lag, though I'm still at low voltage...3.4 at this time. There's a lot of mass of SS Mesh under the brass tube.

Tomorrow I may hunt a 1/8" tube which may be about optimal for a 3/32" wick. Choices may include brass, aluminum and copper.

If you have thoughts about the thermal and mass efficiencies of brass vs. aluminum vs. copper, please comment on that or other related matters.

I'm hoping that you are not vaping this and just testing, just saying - your safety is of more concern than something that is a concept that may not even be a viable alternative to regular ss wicking. And there has been much talk of copper and brass not being chemically friendly with juice - not so sure about brass, but I do know copper is a no-no.
 

peteskeet

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 14, 2012
75
10
35
California
i really wanna hear someone make their atomizer into a 3 chamber design with the quartz tube. someone suggested using the center post as something we can just screw a metal circle onto, then i figured maybe an o ring around the circle and then screw the cap over it. the quartz and glass work but we came to a consensus that the air flow significantly cools it down correct?
 

VaporMizer

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 19, 2012
480
490
The ceramic fuses I saw on eBay were white and glossy looking and were small like a car fuse...these look different in the photos. Maybe it's just the screen on my phone.

I'm interested to see if they work. Even if they don't work well as the heating surface ceramic tubes might still be useful as a reflector/thermal insulator if someone was trying to build a sealed coil system. Maybe ...this thermodynamic and electromagnetic stuff is way outside my everyday experience. Can't wait to experiment with it myself, though!
 

peteskeet

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 14, 2012
75
10
35
California
what if the quartz tube went through the circle essentially becoming a sort of snorkel... so when condensation does build up it wont go straight back down the tube and will collect around it... if that makes sense. condensation is a problem with the normal genesis design anyways.. im just more interested in no coils coming directly into contact with the juice and stainless steel wick.
 

mre777

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 4, 2012
460
365
Daytona Beach
I'm hoping that you are not vaping this and just testing, just saying - your safety is of more concern than something that is a concept that may not even be a viable alternative to regular ss wicking. And there has been much talk of copper and brass not being chemically friendly with juice - not so sure about brass, but I do know copper is a no-no.

Ok so i looked into it a little more and the general consensus is the brass in not a good option for prolonged ejuice exposure either. And as for aluminum I've found this All About Anodising - Cloud 9 Vaping
So it would seem that anodizing is the best bet there, sorry Cool_Breeze for pointing you in the wrong direction :facepalm: discontinue until something more viable comes up
 

Michaaar

Full Member
Verified Member
Sep 22, 2012
66
31
44
Pittsburgh
If you have thoughts about the thermal and mass efficiencies of brass vs. aluminum vs. copper, please comment on that or other related matters.

Copper carries heat exceptionally well, you will have issues keeping the heat localized to one particular area before it's cooled down and transfered it's heat lower. The only way to really get around that is use a thermal gel on the areas you don't want heated, all of which are going to have an unhealthy amount of chemicals in them.

Brass heats up slowly and retains it's heat for a long time, but you will have the same problem that you have with copper, the heat is going to travel quickly.

Aluminum is easy to locally heat without a ton of transfer but your going to need room for expansion and contraction or you might just end up with too much tension being produced.

just my 2 cents
 

JPoodles

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 27, 2012
231
126
54
West Boylston, MA
see my post above. I am not sure we NEED porous ceramic with this specific method. We could use a ceramic in a similar way that dan was using the glass with the mesh or cotton or something else inside. The ceramic would provide a barrier to prevent shorting.

If I could get my ceramic tube cleaned off, I could try this method. I just cannot figure that part out.

ya- I was just letting that fella know my opinion about porous ceramic wicking cuz he asked. I personally am on board the whole contained coil idea now and am quite happy with ssmesh. I do have some nonporous ceramic tubing coming and will let everyone know what happens. At the very least, your correct, it would make a good shielding.

Michaar said:
Talking to an associate of mine about creating a solid glass probe that has the element inside of it (similiar to a rear windshield defroster), wrap mesh, wool or any other wicking material around said probe and you have a completely safe wick that can be replaced in seconds. Not sure if this has been tried, or if it will even work.. but we'll see!

I also have some different sized small diameter quartz tubing coming and am planning to solder a thick resistance wire inside with nonresistant wire leads outside. This will be about 5mm long coil/tube and look like a transistor essentially. If it works I have a couple of ideas about how to set it in the wick. Does this need to be in a vaccum to work? anyone?
 

scoopbb

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 13, 2012
955
828
Los Angeles
Ok, guys, I just heard back from Jack at TGP. I will have 8' of 2mm ID x 3mm OD FQ coming in a few days. Jack is donating the tubing for our testing. I think I mentioned that he is a good guy. :) If future group buys occur, then all I ask is that we go with TGP.

So any of you who have placed a small order, and haven't received a shipment notice yet want to hold off and see if these will work for you, then I would suggest contacting TGP as soon as possible. Once your order ships, the tube cannot be returned for a refund, even if unused.

I will do my best to get the samples out pronto. It will be a couple of days before I receive it. I will be bubble wrapping and sending in normal envelope to try and keep the shipping cost to a minimum. I need to clean out my PMs a bit, so don't start flooding me just yet. LOL. I will let you know later today when to start sending me your info. I plan to send 2 15mm pieces to each, or a single 30mm depending on who wants what. So that should be enough to accommodate as much as 75 or so orders. If I don't receive that many orders, then I will offer up larger lengths of what is left for a nominal price to offset shipping. We'll have to see how this all meshes. Please bear in mind that this is the first time I have done something like this. So be nice. :)

in case you dont know, youll want to get postage for rigid goods (i think its like 65c instead of 4xc [forgot how much normal is now lol]). they dont machine process it so the FQ wont be smashed.
 

the ob

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Jan 31, 2011
7,577
12,011
Portlandia
ya- I was just letting that fella know my opinion about porous ceramic wicking cuz he asked. I personally am on board the whole contained coil idea now and am quite happy with ssmesh. I do have some nonporous ceramic tubing coming and will let everyone know what happens. At the very least, your correct, it would make a good shielding.





I also have some different sized small diameter quartz tubing coming and am planning to solder a thick resistance wire inside with nonresistant wire leads outside. This will be about 5mm long coil/tube and look like a transistor essentially. If it works I have a couple of ideas about how to set it in the wick. Does this need to be in a vaccum to work? anyone?

I hope you know my post did not mean to be negative towards yours. I was just trying to clarify :)
 

the ob

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Jan 31, 2011
7,577
12,011
Portlandia
Here ya go.

he9u6e6a.jpg


Btw, did not sell the p+ yet :)
 

Michaaar

Full Member
Verified Member
Sep 22, 2012
66
31
44
Pittsburgh
I also have some different sized small diameter quartz tubing coming and am planning to solder a thick resistance wire inside with nonresistant wire leads outside. This will be about 5mm long coil/tube and look like a transistor essentially. If it works I have a couple of ideas about how to set it in the wick. Does this need to be in a vaccum to work? anyone?

Shouldn't need to be in a vaccum, the tension provided by the heat from a transistor should act as a true capillary for the wick
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread