Thanks- to be clearer I was curious about inside the capsule(transistor)- not sure if it needs to be vacumed if completely sealed or if i should leave a micro vent for expansion of the coil.
The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick
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Thanks- to be clearer I was curious about inside the capsule(transistor)- not sure if it needs to be vacumed if completely sealed or if i should leave a micro vent for expansion of the coil.
Remember that the NR wire will short the the SS mesh if there's contact (will turn the SS mesh into a resistor)
Ok..one more post and I am really done till Walmad delivers glass tubing. I have a bit of OCD with this concept and could not resist, so bear with me. (If I am beating a dead horse let me know and I will stop posting on the incremental stuff).
So, with my previous versions of ScubaQu, overall vape was okay, not better than coil-on-wick. Without the top cap on the atty, in all the setups vapor production is great. However, when the atty was capped and I actually vaped, quality was just okay. Nothing to make me switch, even with ease of use factors. The issue IMHO is air-flow. Dan mentions this in his posts and made some suggestion on the angle of this airflow inlet. He mentioned offsetting the air hole to the wick. With the AGA set up I am using, I could not find a good angle other than directly on the wick. But even that did not get better than coil-on-wick vapor quality.
My objective was to get airflow above the tube opening. I was not ready to drill out my AGA, so I measured exactly where the air inlet was compared to the top of the glass tube. I found that in the previous set-up it was lower than the tip of the glass tube by about 2 mm. Lower meaning hitting too much coil and not directly mixing with the vapor stream shooting out of the tube. Its not a lot of distance but this is a game of millimeters, so I did two things. I grinded the glass tube down. It came out to ~5mm in height, and then I placed an additional o-ring on the atty base to effectively raise the airhole ~1.5mm above the tip of the glass tube. I was going to grind the tube further but I want to maintain room for at least a 6 wrap of 28g. I also replace the mini-wicks (the channels created by the mini-wick were just a nidus for gunk build-up) with an additional 30mm of SS wrap to build out the core wick for the AGA hole to fill the ID of the glass tube. So I now have a 2.5 mm core wick built out to ~3.5 to 4mm to fill the glass tube snugly.
I was able to used the same coil as before; I just twisted the positive pole nuts lower and tighten the coil a bit on the positive post to compressed the coil further. Not sure if I lost some resistance because I tighten the coil or I lost a turn of the coil because it grounded to the base, but I was able to get a solid 1.7ohm coil resistance.
I believe this set up now meets coil-on-wick quality. Heat up time is still an issue, but may be solved with FQ or thinner Pyrex tubing. That cheap fuse glass has not shown any signs of stress or deformation so far.( I am only experimenting here and not using this as a daily vape) I believe the even heat distribution of 28g will be improved by the flat wire posted by BJ43. That and very tightly wound coils should minimize thermal stress to any glass substrate.
Here is a pic of the revised setup. For AGA genny modders, note the tip of the glass tube is about the height of that useless protruding negative post.
So, with my previous versions of ScubaQu, overall vape was okay, not better than coil-on-wick. Without the top cap on the atty, in all the setups vapor production is great. However, when the atty was capped and I actually vaped, quality was just okay. Nothing to make me switch, even with ease of use factors. The issue IMHO is air-flow. Dan mentions this in his posts and made some suggestion on the angle of this airflow inlet. He mentioned offsetting the air hole to the wick. With the AGA set up I am using, I could not find a good angle other than directly on the wick. But even that did not get better than coil-on-wick vapor quality.
My objective was to get airflow above the tube opening. I was not ready to drill out my AGA, so I measured exactly where the air inlet was compared to the top of the glass tube. I found that in the previous set-up it was lower than the tip of the glass tube by about 2 mm. Lower meaning hitting too much coil and not directly mixing with the vapor stream shooting out of the tube. Its not a lot of distance but this is a game of millimeters, so I did two things. I grinded the glass tube down. It came out to ~5mm in height, and then I placed an additional o-ring on the atty base to effectively raise the airhole ~1.5mm above the tip of the glass tube. I was going to grind the tube further but I want to maintain room for at least a 6 wrap of 28g. I also replace the mini-wicks (the channels created by the mini-wick were just a nidus for gunk build-up) with an additional 30mm of SS wrap to build out the core wick for the AGA hole to fill the ID of the glass tube. So I now have a 2.5 mm core wick built out to ~3.5 to 4mm to fill the glass tube snugly.
I was able to used the same coil as before; I just twisted the positive pole nuts lower and tighten the coil a bit on the positive post to compressed the coil further. Not sure if I lost some resistance because I tighten the coil or I lost a turn of the coil because it grounded to the base, but I was able to get a solid 1.7ohm coil resistance.
I believe this set up now meets coil-on-wick quality. Heat up time is still an issue, but may be solved with FQ or thinner Pyrex tubing. That cheap fuse glass has not shown any signs of stress or deformation so far.( I am only experimenting here and not using this as a daily vape) I believe the even heat distribution of 28g will be improved by the flat wire posted by BJ43. That and very tightly wound coils should minimize thermal stress to any glass substrate.
Here is a pic of the revised setup. For AGA genny modders, note the tip of the glass tube is about the height of that useless protruding negative post.
I'm thinking about this too. When sealed I see 2 reasons for a vacuum 1) the coil will last longer without oxygen like a lightbulb 2) pressure increase from internal heat may pop the end caps. For purity, I'll try sealing the ends with silver. At least on the end (I want to try full length tubes) close to the coil we'd need something that won't melt, at the other end silicon may be fine.
Thanks- maybe a coated wire then? not sure if coating could take heat though- right back to coatings again, hee hee
I might try to set it up horizontally with a band of ss mesh from wick around its center.
I'm ok with difficult to make during prototyping, but needs to be simple enough for everyday use. Think about an automatic, more technically challenging to make but easier for the driver.
Sounds good. I like the silver idea for purity and was taking that lead from your earlier post(thanx again) The silicone might work to keep from popping cuz it will be pliable-don't really know. I honestly don't even know how to get a vaccume and solder a seal at same time though.
I was looking at this stuff called Resbond 920 online last night...it's used in heating element manufacturing.
I could be way off on this, but it seems like something like that stuff would solve a couple problems at once for a sealed system....it could be the adhesive that holds your cartridge together and isolate the coil from the air at the same time. Much easier than creating and maintaining a vacuum, but much the same effect...?
I think the fact that you're experimenting further with the original concept is very interesting to see. As much fun as it is to see people thinking up new ideas for insulators, reflectors and all the rest, I'm quite interested in seeing how far this basic setup can go when optimized. Keep it up gdeal; your posts are always informative, IMO.
Ultimately, I think what I'd like to see takes more manufacturing capabilities than I'll ever have in my garage. I posted some drawings for an encapsulated coil, but I think the best solution would be to fabricate in such a way that the coil is actually embedded in a Fused Quartz (or Sapphire) rod at ~1mm (only thing sticking out would be the NR wires). Would be really easy to simply use the rod to roll the mesh on and leave it there. I'm really curious to see how well grounding on the base of the tanks works (bare or pressed into a recess). I may try and dip the ends and then file the bottom flat so no NR wire protrudes (like a fuse end). Who knows, lot's of ideas but no FQ tubing yet... 
Anyway this turns out, lot of fun building stuff.
Anyway this turns out, lot of fun building stuff.
I was also entertaining that approach but with thermeez. I'm not sure about the toxicity of bonded putties though and was looking for a purer seal. Thanx for the input- I'm off to bed and dreams of quartz tubing
Honestly I wouldn't vacuum seal it and would leave an escape for the air. When you heat it up the air inside your capsule is going to want to expand, without a means of release you could end up cracking the capsule.. By vacuum sealing it (evacuation of air inside the capsule) you may be killing the ability of the coil to heat the glass
Won't know for sure that an airtight seal will work until we try it, but I suspect that the tube will handle the air pressure. So long as the inside stays dry.
Well a side effect of evacuation to a micron level is removal of moisture, so if it is done correctly there won't be any moisture to interfere.
Actually, when I make my first prototype with capillary tubing, I'll probably not even seal the bottom at all. Juice won't be able to rise in the tubing if it's sealed at the top.
Trick will be to make the resistance wire coil slightly bigger than the ID of the tube and then twist it in. The spring action of the wire (may need to torch it first to make it more rigid) will hold all the coils in direct contact with the inside wall of the tube.
I'm planning on using as thick a resistance wire as I can fit inside- ID of tube is .8mm- no coils me thinks
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