The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

[spraintz]

Alright fellers.....I got turned onto this thread from another section.....thanks a lot Nurzrachit

I have since went through every page........yes, all 114 of em in one sitting. I think I'm relatively caught up and I am loving the idea. I am ready to give this some tries. I see that the FQ tubes are gonna be preferred......if anybody is willing to split a $50 minimum order with I would be more than happy to place an order, just PM me.

This idea is cool and needs to be figured out and I wanna help any way I can...........somebody gimmie some tubes!!

 

[bstedh]

Anybody know the melting point of kanthal vs peyrex or FQ? I'm liking the idea of the encapsulated coil... aka lightbulb mod.

Need to find that thread about modding a light bulb, can't remember but it may have been started by gummy.

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 2

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

Melting point of kanthal or nichrome vs anything glass or quartz is moot Bstedh...the wire would melt well before the glass or quartz in liquid for would solidify...it takes a LOT of heat to melt that stuff...

and there are 2 of those threads Bstedh...one by gummy...and one by someone else...I read one and participated in second...

and with that...I'm out...was taking one last look around and saw this thread...this year has been bad to me...see y'all around next year...I'll be watching tho...this looks promising...but it also looks kinda familiar...maybe in a diff form...

 

[Cloud Wizard]

Here's some notes I've been taking on temps (from various internet sources):

Butane torch is a tool which creates an intensely hot flame using butane, a flammable gas.
Consumer air butane torches are often claimed to develop flame temperatures up to approximately 1,430 °C (1700 K, 2600 °F). This temperature is high enough to melt many common metals, such as aluminum and copper, and hot enough to vaporize many organic compounds as well.

Pure Silver: melting point of Silver(Ag) is 961.78 °C (1235 K, 1763 °F)

Kanthal A-1 is a ferritic iron-chromium-aluminium alloy (FeCrAl alloy) for use at temperatures up to 1400°C (2550 °F). The alloy is characterized by high resistivity and very good oxidation resistance. Melting point: 1500 °C (2732 °F)

Fused Quartz softening point has been variously reported from 1500 °C (2732 °F) to 1670 °C (3038 °F)

Pyrex Glass (Borosilicate Glass) is referred to as "hard glass" and has a higher melting point 1649 °C (3,000 °F) than "soft glass," which is preferred for glassblowing by bead makers.

 

[TomCatt]

Aluminum melts at ~600C. Anything organic will be "vaporized" at 500C (most will at 400C - Kapton has a max temp of ~400C)

 

[dsy5]

I think the definitions of resistivity and conductivity need to be examined. A scan of Wikipedia on the matter seems to be indicating that the measurements are based on a measure of a solid volume of the material. ...per meter seems to mean a cubic meter of material and likewise a cubic centimeter for per cm. The 'face' of a cubic meter has 10,000 times the area of a centimeter and 100 times the depth.

I haven't examined the definitions in depth, so correct me if I am mistaken.

I would think if Siemens were meant to be expressed as volume, the units would be written something like S/m³ or S/cm³, but I'm not that keen on the physics of it. Maybe we have some young college boys out there there may give some insight.

 

[gdeal]

...couple of observations while vaping my latest ScubaQu set-up. I was playing around with different settings to optimize the vape.
I made a few changes to the set-up here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/351986-pyrex-ss-hybrid-wick-28.html#post7878614

The primary change I made was to reduced resistance from a 1.7 ohm coil to a 1.5 ohm coil to speed up heat-up time. I did this by shortening the bottom leg run to the negative by creating wire contact closer to the wick hole base and by using two m3 stainless steel washers for the positive post. I also pulled the wire a bit tighter.



With a 1.5 ohm coil, heat up time is a bit shorter for the 28g. It still needs a second or two from a “cold” start to produce, but once the SS wick was hot, it was almost instant-on with vaping. This was very noticeable when chain vaping.

The big thing I noticed was that vapor production and QUALITY improved significantly. I was sorta scratching my head on this one, but upon a closer look two thing became apparent; The washers are ~ at the height of the tip tube/air inlet hole and when I looked down through the drip tip opening in the cap you can’t see coil anymore, only the top of the washer. So it looks like the washers are adding some type of positive vortex effect.

The next one gets into a grey zone for me…, but with the 1.7ohm coil, if I went above 11.5 watts, the juice felt a bit cooked. It’s a bit different taste then the burn taste on a traditionally genny coil on wick. With coil on wick, I saw someone used the term “grilled” (Dsy5?). This was more like “over boiled.”

In any case, the point I wanted to make was that with the 1.5 ohm coil, I could get to back ~14 watts before quality went south. Either eliminating a few mm's of non-coiled wire and/or adding the washers really bump up performance.

So this is working really well right now. I actually don’t feel compelled to switch back to a traditionally genny. It not yet better overall, there still is a bit of a minor trade-off in vapor quality and time to start-up, but with flavor and set up time its almost better. With some more optimization, this will replace coil-on wick.

Dan, if you can squeeze a washer on top of your positive post, let me know if I am on the right track here with the air flow effect or if it’s just sleep deprivation playing tricks on me.

Long live ScubaQu

 

[emonty]

The guys at thermo vape use ceramic..dunno if it works, preorder price for the titanium is $499, think I will wait a little
thermovape dot com

• FDA Approved Structurally Stabilized Ceramic Ceramic

• All Ceramic Vapor Path, twenty times stronger than glass

• US sourced Titanium and Stainless Steel materials

• UL Listed IP65 switch. (tamper proof, water resistant)

• Efficient proprietary Iron alloy wire coiled around a Stabilized Ceramic core

• Screen free, clog free, high flow, stir free, deflective air pathway mouthpiece

• Completely insulated Stabilized Ceramic core

• Four times the battery life from previous models



PS: never mind it is used for solids and oils, the eliquid version is not available

 

[cyclotron]

I got my thin wall glass in yesterday and just had the time to try it. I used an 8mm long piece of 2.5mm thin wall glass (this stuff is so thin its hard to see the wall) and 32aw NiC80 wire with a wrap to 2.2ohms. I'm using 500 mesh and rolled a wick that was slightly less than the I.D. of the glass. In fact I thought it was too small but went forward anyway. Air hole just about 35 degrees away from the wick.

The setup works pretty well for me. I am "new" to DuD builds so keep that in mind. Once it is warmed up all I have to do is fire it a bit before it reaches my mouth and it is going pretty well. Chaining on it is where it shines though. I've used it with about a 1/4 tank and I swear I never tasted anything but juice. I haven't tasted the normal break-in metal or anything else for that matter. I like NiCH80 because it seems Kanthal tends to need a break in for taste. NiCH80 has been a lost cause for SS for me since it is nearly impossible to get rid of hot spots. But it rocks on pretty well with the glass.

I noted that a good bit of vapor is coming from both ends of the glass. I need to reduce the size of the glass just to remain under the coil and see if that helps produce vapor sooner.

I'll note that the 2.5 thin wall is supper delicate stuff. Just a small score around it and it will snap off nice a clean. I tried to use the dremel cutoff wheel first and it will just shatter it.

 

[roadrash]

Someone should give EvilGrym a holla.

 

[spraintz]

Dang you guys are getting me pumped about this!! My tubing has been ordered.

 

[emonty]

I got my thin wall glass in yesterday and just had the time to try it. I used an 8mm long piece of 2.5mm thin wall glass (this stuff is so thin its hard to see the wall) and 32aw NiC80 wire with a wrap to 2.2ohms. I'm using 500 mesh and rolled a wick that was slightly less than the I.D. of the glass. In fact I thought it was too small but went forward anyway. Air hole just about 35 degrees away from the wick.

The setup works pretty well for me. I am "new" to DuD builds so keep that in mind. Once it is warmed up all I have to do is fire it a bit before it reaches my mouth and it is going pretty well. Chaining on it is where it shines though. I've used it with about a 1/4 tank and I swear I never tasted anything but juice. I haven't tasted the normal break-in metal or anything else for that matter. I like NiCH80 because it seems Kanthal tends to need a break in for taste. NiCH80 has been a lost cause for SS for me since it is nearly impossible to get rid of hot spots. But it rocks on pretty well with the glass.

I noted that a good bit of vapor is coming from both ends of the glass. I need to reduce the size of the glass just to remain under the coil and see if that helps produce vapor sooner.

I'll note that the 2.5 thin wall is supper delicate stuff. Just a small score around it and it will snap off nice a clean. I tried to use the dremel cutoff wheel first and it will just shatter it.

pics and vid's please!!

 

[Cool_Breeze]

I would think if Siemens were meant to be expressed as volume, the units would be written something like S/m³ or S/cm³, but I'm not that keen on the physics of it. Maybe we have some young college boys out there there may give some insight.

I understand about the m^3 that would be expected. If you think about conductivity there are a few things involved. One is surface area. The conductivity of a pin point is not going to be the same as a square cm of contact area. Additionally, the Z-direction seems to be a factor. The explanations on Wikipedia are involved and I haven't taken the time to sort is all out. As well, my understanding of Greek symbols is not great. It 'seemed' to me that the m^3 concept is somehow shorted to m in their formulas. Let me know if you find something different.

In a sense, it's 'seems' very much like the process with thermal conductivity that I offered last night, thought I haven't fully grasp it yet in regards to conductivity. Make sense..?

 

[LucidAce]

Dang you guys are getting me pumped about this!! My tubing has been ordered.

Welcome to the party, spraintz. Got some drawings for your custom ScubaQu-optimized RBA yet?

 

[emonty]

from the same guy, looks pretty good, creating a non conductive needle, stick your wire in it, wrap it around a drill bit and put a wick inside.



might be old news for some...

 

[spraintz]

Welcome to the party, spraintz. Got some drawings for your custom ScubaQu-optimized RBA yet?

lol, glad I wasn't busy today.....this thread was a long read

Funny, I do have some rough idea hand drawings already but I'll probably have a better idea of a decent layout tomorrow once my head clears up from the information overload

 

[deezdrama]

amazons all out of 3mm pyrex, and i know it isnt fq but I just got 5 feet (10pcs of 6") 4mm OD .8mm thin walled pyrex for $8 shipped...woot

 

[cyclotron]

amazons all out of 3mm pyrex, and i know it isnt fq but I just got 5 feet (10pcs of 6") 4mm OD .8mm thin walled pyrex for $8 shipped...woot

That might be called thin wall but not compared to the stuff I got. This 2.5mm has only 0.26mm walls.

 

[cyclotron]

pics and vid's please!!

I'll try to get some done in a while. I have too many things to do at the moment.

 

[notsmoking]

This idea is cool and needs to be figured out and I wanna help any way I can...........somebody gimmie some tubes!!

If you pm TBinAZ he will send you some that he will be sending to people for futher testing. Look for his post a few pages back from your post #1141