The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

[DizGrizz]

Have you considered the radial-lead design I put up a while back? That could be inserted from one end (assuming you could find some sort of very small insulator for the "center" wire. Actually, since it would, in theory, be completely sealed, you could use glass fiber tubing insulation for that. Anything with any stiffness would allow you to stuff it in from one side.

 

[Big Screen D]

I think that FQ, pyrex, or the sapphire versions would be better since the glass you're using melts so easily (and would be more prone to temperature shock/cracking). I'll do some searches...

Agreed. The ones I have are extremely fragile. If we can find ones the same dimension, but stronger, we're golden.

 

[Big Screen D]

Have you considered the radial-lead design I put up a while back? That could be inserted from one end (assuming you could find some sort of very small insulator for the "center" wire. Actually, since it would, in theory, be completely sealed, you could use glass fiber tubing insulation for that. Anything with any stiffness would allow you to stuff it in from one side.

I just don't know that design can be reasonably used in the size I'm using. The inner diameter of the coil is that of a small sewing pin. I made it using 10x magnification!

Probably the only way would require an insulator at the top to keep the center wire centered. Would be nice though to have one end already sealed. (edit, the edit...what you said lol)

 

[DizGrizz]

If it could be purchased a little cheaper, the R44 stuff from these guys would prob work nicely: Ceramic Insulators - Single Hole Round Tube Style

 

[DizGrizz]

I just don't know that design can be reasonably used in the size I'm using. The inner diameter of the coil is that of a small sewing pin. I made it using 10x magnification!

Probably the only way would require an insulator at the top to keep the center wire centered. Would be nice though to have one end already sealed. (edit, the edit...what you said lol)

Wow, that is small. Do you know the actual ID measurement?

 

[Big Screen D]

Wow, that is small. Do you know the actual ID measurement?

The tube itself? Just over a mm ID.

 

[DizGrizz]

Another thunk would be to build the coil and coat it with enough powdered glass enamel to hold it together - especially the inside of the coil. I think that would mandate sealing the other end though to keep from having possible issues with glass fragments entering the juice/vapor stream.

 

[DizGrizz]

That's pretty tiny...still, I think it could be done...I think. Might have to get some of the Pyrex tubes to try this with...

 

[k3vin]

The tubes I got from amazon are Pyrex,total was just over $18 with shipping..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Big Screen D]

Another thunk would be to build the coil and coat it with enough powdered glass enamel to hold it together - especially the inside of the coil. I think that would mandate sealing the other end though to keep from having possible issues with glass fragments entering the juice/vapor stream.

The key is the top must be sealed. Otherwise juice will find it's way to the coil from the inside, and funk up the taste. With the top sealed, only vapor off of the glass and mesh gets produced. With the bottom open, I suppose juice could get to the coil if laid on it's side. While in that instance, one still would not taste juice from the coil. I do see where juice being trapped in the tube would cause problems. Namely quenching the coil until forced out. So Ideally what we want is the top completely airtight with a sealer such as JB Weld, and the bottom sealed by melting the glass around the NR wire leaving a tiny open space for air expansion there.

 

[bapgood]

I melted the 2.5x2.2 wilmad pyrex with an internal coil on a long dry burn @ 5v.

The coil was one of the 2 ohm coils that came with a smok tech r tank that had nr leads. I rewrapped the coil to fit inside the tube and then oxidized it a little. Then routed the nr wire back up the middle of the coil like DizGrizz pictured earlier.

 

[DizGrizz]

I melted the 2.5x2.2 wilmad pyrex with an internal coil on a long dry burn @ 5v.

The coil was one of the 2 ohm coils that came with a smok tech r tank that had nr leads. I rewrapped the coil to fit inside the tube and then oxidized it a little. Then routed the nr wire back up the middle of the coil like DizGrizz pictured earlier.

Hmmm... This may all come down to something that takes some caution to use.

 

[DizGrizz]

But, then again, even with just dry SS mesh around it, I bet it would take a while for it to get hot enough to melt the glass. Donno without trying it.

 

[DizGrizz]

I'm beginning to wonder about a large gauge SS needle for the tube. Using the dip-it-in-baking-soda method to give a non-conductive coating on the inside. The needle would be easy peesy to crimp closed.
Huh...now where to find some needles that don't come in packs of 100...

 

[Big Screen D]

Come to think of it, bet one could use a second tube sort of like a welding rod to put a bead of glass on the end. Guess now I need to pick up a micro torch, and retire my plumbing torch

 

[DizGrizz]

Come to think of it, bet one could use a second tube sort of like a welding rod to put a bead of glass on the end. Guess now I need to pick up a micro torch, and retire my plumbing torch

Ooo...good idea!
EDIT: Would need to heat the end also though to make a good "weld" where the glass in the tube and the glass you applied mixed.

back on the needle thang...
These folks have bulk general purpose blunt SS needles with ID and OD specs. I sent them a request for price and avail on the 16 and 17 gauge 50-packs. Using the SS needle would eliminate the melting glass issue, might be really easy to seal, and could transmit heat even faster (maybe...maybe not). They also would not break from temperature shock. Only possible issue would be internal shorting if they burned through the non-conductive layer.

 

[JPoodles]

If it could be purchased a little cheaper, the R44 stuff from these guys would prob work nicely: Ceramic Insulators - Single Hole Round Tube Style

nice find

I have been looking for ceramic tubing that small! I actually have some 3mm stuff (if you hadn't seen it in earlier posts) that works for the original Scuba-Q idea (wick in tube) but it lags a bit on heat up because wall is thicker than whats optimal. I'll have to try some of this.

If this is used as an insulator, it may actually be a heat sink. Ceramic works as a heat insulator when it has a fiberous or porous construct. It absorbs and disipates the heat. Dense alumina oxide has a much higher thermal capacity and conductivity than glass. I think the ceramic fiber sleeving (if you could find it small enough) would work to solve heat and electrical insulation of a center wire. That is if you choose to bring the leads to one end.

Thermal Conductivity of some common Materials and Gases
http://www.heatmanagement.com/local/media/hmproducts/ku-alo-61/ku-aln-und-alo_datasheet.pdf

 

[bert1983]

When you say seal the ends do you mean like this if it was 2 glass tubes and the bottom was left open?

 

[jubal81]

I'd have to caution against using metal beads to seal the ends. The metal will expand and the quartz won't. Boom.

Heating the end of the tube with a lead sticking out and then using pliers to crimp the glass is how it's done with these commercial heating elements.

 

[JPoodles]

I'd have to caution against using metal beads to seal the ends. The metal will expand and the quartz won't. Boom.

Heating the end of the tube with a lead sticking out and then using pliers to crimp the glass is how it's done with these commercial heating elements.

nice visual to go by BigScreenD of course this is a chinese company-you can beat them to the punch but if its successful we'll all have them available at brick and mortars within a month