The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

[DizGrizz]

bert1983, no...were talking about sealing the ends to create a totally sealed tube...pretty much exactly as those listed by jubal81 there. Except with a possible option of having both leads come out of the same end.
Nice pic, jubal...also, a good point about using rigid capping material that expands at a diff rate from the glass. Looks like all the stuff that company makes is high voltage.
Crimping the glass is easy & hard to do . You have to make sure the crimping tool (pliers) are also very near the temp of the glass or you will cool it too quickly and it will shatter/crack. You could also crimp with something that is a very good thermal insulator...ceramic nose pliers???

OK...on a roll here with the thin wall SS tubing. This stuff is hyper thin wall. the 17 gauge B004WLMT9I is is .004" wall thickness with a .05" ID and .058 OD! Stainless Steel 304 Hypodermic Round Tubing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Also these: .048 ID, .058 OD Dispensing Needle 17ga. x 1.5" Tip White 50pcs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[DizGrizz]

I forget who was looking at doing a sing straight piece of thick-gauge nichrome wire in a tube but, check this out. NichromeCalc If you select to have it calculate the temperature, you can see that thick nichrome at short lengths gets VERY hot even at low voltages...as in melts. Guess that's why coils are so prevalent.

EDIT: That's single, not sing

 

[mkhyper1]

If a full co-op matures after we've all done our initial testing, I'm sure we could enlist the aid of one of the glass experts with cutting and annealing (for a fee, of course, I wouldn't expect free services on that large a scale). Just wanted to throw that out there in case somebody does organize a full co-op, personally I think it would be a good idea in that circumstance

If we get to that point and decide on some std lengths we could probably get the glass company to cut to length for us.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[JPoodles]

If we get to that point and decide on some std lengths we could probably get the glass company to cut to length for us.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...h-wicks-interest-post7938444.html#post7938444

 

[Big Screen D]

When you say seal the ends do you mean like this if it was 2 glass tubes and the bottom was left open?

No. Just a single tube. Closed means sealing the ends so juice can not enter only.

 

[Big Screen D]

I'd have to caution against using metal beads to seal the ends. The metal will expand and the quartz won't. Boom.

Heating the end of the tube with a lead sticking out and then using pliers to crimp the glass is how it's done with these commercial heating elements.

LOL. Well I see we're already set for mass production! Wonder if they have em in 1.5 ohm

But yes, that is the ideal way to close off the ends, And I see they have been to the hobby shop for connectors!

 

[mre777]

LOL. Well I see we're already set for mass production! Wonder if they have em in 1.5 ohm

But yes, that is the ideal way to close off the ends, And I see they have been to the hobby shop for connectors!

lol I was going to point that out to you.

 

[bapgood]

now where to find some needles that don't come in packs of 100...

Try a local farm supply place or maybe veterinarian.

 

[d9mel]

I received my glass last week, and decided that a pyrex coil sleeve was the most viable solution, but couldn't buy any more materials for this project because of digikey, hkg li-po, and wizard orders. Today i just decided to use what i had on hand ( willmad 3mm & 2.5mm)and work on some of the issues brought up in recent posts.
I used 32 ga kanthal threaded through a sewing needle to make a coil that doubles back on itself and spread the +&- so that i could have them exit into the vapor chamber, cut a piece of the 2.5mm tube @ 45mm and inserted the coil till the top of the coil was 4mm into the tube. Used a micro torch to heat the end of the tube then lightly patted it against the heated ceramic torch head just enough to begin a controlled collapse. melted the glass until it began to barely bead up and fuse leaving a slight airgap around the leads. Then i ALMOST ( I think air flow will be necessary because the heating element surrounded by air that will expand and contract) sealed the other end of the tube leaving a very, very small hole at the end ( cant see it unless held in light).
I've been heating and cooling without and juice to make sure the top joint wont crack. I built this w/ kanthal leads cause i wasnt sure if it would hold, but if it does i will rebuild with 28 ga kanthal leads ( all i have for nr wire is silver).
I took pics, how do I post them?

 

[bapgood]

I took pics, how do I post them?

What are you on? PC, Phone, etc

Sent on PM

 

[Cloud Wizard]

lol I was going to point that out to you.

On their site they have single ended quartz/carbon fiber heater lamps. Range from 50-100watts, wonder if they could make a 10mm 10 watt version?

 

[Cloud Wizard]

or something like this (quartz coated carbon fiber heater element)


8000+ hour duty life....

 

[Cloud Wizard]

I sent them the following email request for info on making either of these two

2.5mm ID, 10mm height, 3.3v-4.2v, 5-20watts


2.0mm OD, 15mm length, 3.3v-4.2v, 5-20watts

 

[Cloud Wizard]

I love the idea of the quartz coated carbon fiber coil. I'd gladly pay what I've spent on wire for 1 coil for a lifetime...

 

[bapgood]

I love the idea of the quartz coated carbon fiber coil. I'd gladly pay what I've spent on wire for 1 coil for a lifetime...

Yeah sure would be nice.....but you might have to talk a few other people into it also....but its worth looking into



http://www.quartz-heater.com/sdp/45...ber_quartz_heate_with_one_end.html#normal_img

sorry pics is small

InpuQuartz Carbon Fibre Heating Tube
1. Highlights:
- FIR therapeutic function
- Energy Saving with electricity-heat transformation rate reaching 98%
- Environmental protecting and safe with dim light and no UV radiation
- Above 8, 000 hours of serving life
2. Technical Parameters:
- VOLT: 100, 110, 120, 220, 230, 240V
- WATT: 50-2500W
- HZ: 50-60 HZ
- Electricity saving ratio: 30%
- Infrared normal direction radiant ratio: over 94%
- Electric heat transformation ratio: over 98%
- Operating temperature: less than 1800C
- Highest heat temperature endured: 1100C
- Color temperature: 700-1500C
- Surface temperature: 500-900C
- Continuous servicing hour: over 8, 000H
3. Application Area:
- Health care & heating apparatus
- Drying equipment
- Cooking device
- Medical equipment
- Fry & baking equipment
- Brewage & fermentation installation
- Sterilizing device
We can also design and produce carbon fibre heating tubes according to the needs of customers on operating voltage, power, size, length etc.
Write us for more information and prices.



specs

 

[TomCatt]

ESL ElectroScience Product Spotlight - Thick-Film Heaters Made From Dielectric Coated Stainless Steel Substrates

 

[bapgood]

Posting pics for d9mel

These were coming up small and hard to see so I cropped the originals....hopefully it helps

 

[bapgood]

ESL ElectroScience Product Spotlight - Thick-Film Heaters Made From Dielectric Coated Stainless Steel Substrates

I almost guarantee that is what the Thermovape Cera is using.

Edit...maybe not this exact stuff but a similar pcb type heating unit. This would be a great way for precise heat control, temp sensor/regulation could be built into the pcb.

 

[bert1983]

Might I suggest using a tungsten lead then? It seals much nicer than nichrome or kanthal

 

[bert1983]

Also this might be of interest...