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The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick
- Thread starter Scubabatdan
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Has anyone tried drilling tiny pin holes in the pyrex tube itself? Might help with airflow and it might actually get hotter faster as there's less surface area to heat up.
Its doing great. the coil is in the middle so its not heating the tank like it was heating the top cap on the DuD and the phoenix.
Just wokeup.... Black Friday at Harbor Freight!! Ill be back later
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and actually distibute the vapor in full form rather than just the top, which is the cause of vapor production when puffin' with top cap on it IMO
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While I'm searching my quartz glass I want to try something so I use pyrex to setup. Results are good but not great. Next I use diamond cutter to make slit all the way instead of small holes. Actually, I tried to make holes with small drill bit but couldn't make it.
4.0V with 28 guage wire 10 wraps to make it 2.1 ohms.
I could taste metal for first 20 puffs or so but wires are new so it suppose to be. Surprisingly, tastes are getting very clear and because of that actual liquid flavors stands out. Vapor productions are x1.5 better than without slit. Vapor now out streight from top but also sides. I'm not saying volumes are same as my mini DID but 8 out 10 for me now.
EDIT: Somehow wick was too tight so I loosened up with narrow wick and vapor production is way up, it's getting into comfy zone for me.
4.0V with 28 guage wire 10 wraps to make it 2.1 ohms.
I could taste metal for first 20 puffs or so but wires are new so it suppose to be. Surprisingly, tastes are getting very clear and because of that actual liquid flavors stands out. Vapor productions are x1.5 better than without slit. Vapor now out streight from top but also sides. I'm not saying volumes are same as my mini DID but 8 out 10 for me now.
EDIT: Somehow wick was too tight so I loosened up with narrow wick and vapor production is way up, it's getting into comfy zone for me.
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looking pretty good, so face that slit towards the airhole and get max vapor....
this is a game changer, I hope this is going somewhere...
the question's been asked, can anyone say if the juice's still browning after a tank or two?
the question's been asked, can anyone say if the juice's still browning after a tank or two?
juice is browning because the mesh/coil setup is not perfect. It has nothing to do with or without glass. Also some juices tend to make the juice darker because of the sugar level and/or coloring additives or a too high % of flavoring. I run my gennies for weeks without darkening of the juice. If it happens I know there is something not perfect with my setup. btw: I only use max 3% flavoring.
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The slits and/or holes cancel what I think is the best advantage of this new idea, IMO the idea of no juice touching the coil is what will produce true vaper with no or less burning. Even without hotspots very hot wire produces black gunk and we vape the fumes that come off this gunk.
While I'm searching my quartz glass I want to try something so I use pyrex to setup. Results are good but not great. Next I use diamond cutter to make slit all the way instead of small holes. Actually, I tried to make holes with small drill bit but couldn't make it.
4.0V with 28 guage wire 10 wraps to make it 2.1 ohms.
I could taste metal for first 20 puffs or so but wires are new so it suppose to be. Surprisingly, tastes are getting very clear and because of that actual liquid flavors stands out. Vapor productions are x1.5 better than without slit. Vapor now out streight from top but also sides. I'm not saying volumes are same as my mini DID but 8 out 10 for me now.
View attachment 153411 View attachment 153412 View attachment 153413
Birks,
Very nice!
Did you try to pinch (close) off the top of the wick to force all vapor pressure through the slot?
Only downside here is that you now will have gunk build up on your coils. BTW, you must have very steady hands....
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I have a diamond drill bit my dentist gave me I can try to drill tiny holes in the glass. I am still waiting for Quartz though to have it all done. A well somebody will do it and I just sit back and enjoy the show!
Some thoughts about the air mixture problems. The top plate has two wick holes (if you remove that tall neg post). One is aligned with the airhole; the other, almost on the opposite side. If you used that opposite hole as the wick hole, inserting the glass tubing down into the tank and with the tubing bent to route over to the airhole side, the tubing barely entering that wick hole. A slit is made on this end facing the airhole to allow the vapor to mix with the incoming air.
The vapor travels along the tube and is carborated at the airhole. There would be minimal heat loss since no direct air stream is hitting the coil. Any extra juice is deposited back into the tank (I guess moisture would also, so this end may need to be sealed.).
I would give this a try, but I don't have any tubing yet, and that Christmas lights fuse is not going to do it! By the way, the fuse glass is starting to show some heat related fractures.
Edit: This would sort of defeat the ease of wick replacement, but if the vapor and off taste can be improved, it would be something I could live with.
The vapor travels along the tube and is carborated at the airhole. There would be minimal heat loss since no direct air stream is hitting the coil. Any extra juice is deposited back into the tank (I guess moisture would also, so this end may need to be sealed.).
I would give this a try, but I don't have any tubing yet, and that Christmas lights fuse is not going to do it! By the way, the fuse glass is starting to show some heat related fractures.
Edit: This would sort of defeat the ease of wick replacement, but if the vapor and off taste can be improved, it would be something I could live with.
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I see the Christmas twinkly lights have already been suggested. LOL
How about a real small fuse in a dead El cheapo multi meter. Every moder has one of them.lol
I got one of these to practice on. Some possible potentail configurations to try with the flat ends and the bump out in the middle.
100 WATT T3 QUARTZ HALOGEN LIGHT BULB 78MM DOUBLE ENDED LONG LIFE 3,500 HOURS PURE TUNGSTEN LAMP
How about a real small fuse in a dead El cheapo multi meter. Every moder has one of them.lol
I got one of these to practice on. Some possible potentail configurations to try with the flat ends and the bump out in the middle.
100 WATT T3 QUARTZ HALOGEN LIGHT BULB 78MM DOUBLE ENDED LONG LIFE 3,500 HOURS PURE TUNGSTEN LAMP
I just read all 57 pages of this thread in one sitting, let me get up a stretch real quick..
Great idea Dan!
I have some concerns and some ideas here. As mentioned already, I do not think Pyrex is the way to go here. The heating and cooling in a atty is too extreme and sooner or later it will become weak enough to shatter from the stress. I can just imagine someone attempting to clean these tubes and ending up with tiny glass shards all over their kitchen. I have, in my own hands, seen 1/2 inch thick Pyrex containers come apart from simply being picked up at room temp, these containers are autoclaved repeated. The heating and cooling will result in making these very brittle and they will become unpredictable. A little scarier imagine running in my mind as I read this was the glass shattering inside a genesis top cap and not noticing. Mouth and lungs full of shards? Guess I'm saying I will not be using glass or Pyrex.
Quartz has me intrigued, but it's late and can not properly research it right now. I have been rolling ideas in my head for a few weeks on what material could be used to electrically insulate the SS mesh from a coil. Quartz may just be the answer but don't take me on faith with that as I have limited experience with it. I've been thinking over and over, "what's electrically non-conductive, very heat conductive, medically safe and can withstand thermal stress". So far, all I could come up with is phrama grade silicone tubing but it's not going to be very good at heat transfer. Quartz seems to fit the bill, assuming it can hold up the heating and cooling with becoming brittle. Anyone have any ideas on this?
Edit: Ok, did some a little googling and found this statement:
Synthetic Sapphira vs. Glass, Fused Quartz & Silica | Rayotek Scientific Inc.
"Surface devitrifies over time when temperature is cycled at high temperatures"
Which concerns me somewhat regarding fused quartz.
Good find; but strange that you didn't point out the statement about low thermal conductivity for FQ - although that is a relative statement and no actual values given for comparison.
Something else to look into
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Good find; but strange that you didn't point out the statement about low thermal conductivity for FQ - although that is a relative statement and no actual values given for comparison.
Something else to look into
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
This is from TGP website as to properties of fused quartz:
Vitreous Silica, in all its forms, offers a variety of properties such as:
•Permeability
•Extreme Hardness
•Very Low Coefficient of Thermal Expansion
•Resistance to High Temperature
•High Chemical Purity
•High Corrosion Resistance
•Extensive Optical Transmission from Ultra-Violet to Infra-Red
•Excellent Electrical Insulation Qualities
•Remarkable Stability Under Atomic Bombardment
The highlighted bit worrires me slightly... But at least my radioactive juice wouldn't contaminate my lungs
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I agree with BJ, plus I think cutting slits in the glass especially Pyrex/fuse glass will increase the likely hood of shattering.
I think it's great that so many are experimenting with thick fuse/etc glass, but I don't think very much is going to be able to be determined until these tests are done using thin wall quartz tubing.
IMO I think the shortest piece of quartz possible to insulate the coil from the wick will achieve the best results.
As for the airflow concerns, if a short tube is used between the coil and wick I don't see how it changes the air flow properties of the atty.
Maybe a carbed setup would work better for this??? Puff puff pass ;-)
Can't wait for my quartz.....shipping be damned....just put it in the box and ship it
I wonder though if in time will the juice burn and gunk up the inside of the glass, and I wonder how hard that would be to clean?
Probably will, but easier to replace than the present way.
I figure my 4 feet of tubing will give me over 140 sleeves, that should last a while even if they don't clean up, and changing them often will eliminate thermal failure.
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