This seems very do-able, at 1/32" wide you could probably get 4 wraps, spaced 1/32 apart or less, at about 2Ω - heat transfer should be far better due to more surface area. No pricing, though.
The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick
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This seems very do-able, at 1/32" wide you could probably get 4 wraps, spaced 1/32 apart or less, at about 2Ω - heat transfer should be far better due to more surface area. No pricing, though.
What CAD software do you use at home? I used SolidWorks for work for like 13 years and I can't even remember how to use my old AutoCAD software, and SolidWorks is too pricey for personal use. Tried Alibre for a while...not too shaby. Google SketchUp seems like it has possibilities, but I haven't messed with it much.
real progress!
I've done my own CAD sketches, concept is very similar.
we need someone with the tooling that can get this to take off!
a solution for current atties would be to fill the existing air hole an drill one through the top of the cap near the drip tip hole that points down towards the top of the wick.
Foil? hmmm...
The issue I am seeing with Pyrex, and perhaps the Quartz, is even though they are resistant to high temperatures they are not very resistant to the kind of thermal stress we would put them through. The repeated cycle of heating and cooling is a little different then just heat.
The only real world example I can think of is effect was the original Xbox 360 failures. The solder used on the processor contact points was too temperature resistant and could not withstand the cycling of heating and cooling, causing them to become brittle and break from it. The fix was to switch to a solder with a lower heat rating, which allowed the solder to slightly melt during overheating instead of tempering itself until it snapped. I saw many of these units last for a couple of years and many more fail within months, based solely on how often they were turned on or off. Not sure if I am explaining that correctly or even if it applies but I have seen this happen with borosilicate.
I am interested to see if anyone has experienced these tubes shattering yet?
Since this glass tube project is new, a lot of this is conjecture. I would rather not make swiss cheese out of my atty when I find out that a particular fix doesn't work
I would rather try to find a work-around without having to modify all my existing devices. I still want to try directing the vapor through a bent FQ glass tube at the airhole to see if the air mixture problem is alleviated. Gotta get tubing!
However, in the sake of progress, I suppose that a sacrificial Chinese atty would not be a huge price to pay.
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Yes I order from Tech glass at least once a month. I've talked to the owner many times. He's always been fair with my shipping cost. I really can't say for sure about the cost of a single tube because I've never ordered just a tube before. Shipping time isn't the greatest. 95% of the time it takes at least a week to even process my order. I also know he's not going to like just sending out one tube of 1x3 times 100.
Bedazzle
As far as shipping I noramlly order lots so I'm not much of a help
Bedazzle
As far as shipping I noramlly order lots so I'm not much of a help
You had to ask that. So here I was standing with the quartz light in my hand and my wife asked, Whats that? Oh nothing honey, just a old burnout light bulb from the back porch. So she says, give me that. I'm going shopping and I'll pick up some new ones and I'll need it to match it up. So I'm going, but, but, but as she walks out the door. So in answer to your question, I dunno.LOL
Same with mine the more I tried to burn it off the worse it got. If I do another one I'll try cleaning it with some solvent.
Work in progress. I'm making a quick set up that will have a CE-2 center post which should be just about even with the top of the tube/mesh. I,m hoping to draw out the vapor right at the source with out cooling off the coil.
If the glass is darkening with heat, doesn't that usually mean it has lead in it? Im no expert on glass but I think i heard that some time ago.
Bedazzle any thoughts on this?
I have AutoCAD & Revit for work and was given a licence to both these for "work at home" use. I play around with solidworks(student version), but have never used it professionally.
I have a personal pet peeve against sketchup, and refuse to use it.
I've recently come across Autodesk 123D which i think is amazing for prototyping, and gives me a better visualization. AND ITS FREE! & they offer a 3D printing service.
I work for an engineering firm as the architect, so i get the luxuries of using full licence software at work and at home. I like the fact that the owner is persistent with keeping us updated with the latest Autodesk has to offer.
Since this glass tube project is new, a lot of this is conjecture. I would rather not make swiss cheese out of my atty when I find out that a particular fix doesn't work
I would rather try to find a work-around without having to modify all my existing devices. I still want to try directing the vapor through a bent FQ glass tube at the airhole to see if the air mixture problem is alleviated. Gotta get tubing!
However, in the sake of progress, I suppose that a sacrificial Chinese atty would not be a huge price to pay.
get a tube bender, get a syringe needle, bend it into a curve, stick it on the inside of your air hole on the cap so it curves and directs airflow to the top of the wick instead of the middle where no vapor is actually coming out?
Alternatively, you want the airflow where the vapor is, can't move the airflow, move hte vapor. it'll require shrinking your coil by going up to like 36awg wire, lower the coil height / tube height by making a low tight coil so the airflow is coming in around the top of the tube/wick/coil assembly. Essentialy make it stubby
Interesting. I guess you could apply this also to a cotton yarn wick .... I might have to get some pyrex.
get a tube bender, get a syringe needle, bend it into a curve, stick it on the inside of your air hole on the cap so it curves and directs airflow to the top of the wick instead of the middle where no vapor is actually coming out?
Alternatively, you want the airflow where the vapor is, can't move the airflow, move hte vapor. it'll require shrinking your coil by going up to like 36awg wire, lower the coil height / tube height by making a low tight coil so the airflow is coming in around the top of the tube/wick/coil assembly. Essentialy make it stubby
I had thought about the syringe tube trick, but thought that while screwing on the cap it would possibly hit the wick and cause more problems - but I guess I have to try it to see. The stubby wick may be the answer to that, if the smaller surface area does not cause more headaches.
Thanks! Can't beat that price!!
When I was a full time CAD designer (mechanical) I always had personal use of SolidWorks but right now I'm just doing part time R&D consulting work for one company and I haven't even asked about it.
The glass is darkining from the juice. If no juice were in the tube the color would not change. The inside of the tube where the coil is is where the highest temp it, and the juice is building up crude where the pyrex is hotest. It is not because of lead in the pyrex IMHO.
Dan
Does anyone have experience machining ceramic rod?
I have a mini lathe and was thinking about trying to make a ceramic cap that would go over the coil/tube. It would have a 2mm hole in the top the same as the tube for the wick to slide through. This would help protect the coil and keep help keep the heat at the tube.
I guess I should include that this would be for a from scratch atty build, with an adjustable vent in the cap similar to what Lance_Wallen described earlier.
When I get some time I'll model up what I'm thinking (Autodesk Inventor)
I have a mini lathe and was thinking about trying to make a ceramic cap that would go over the coil/tube. It would have a 2mm hole in the top the same as the tube for the wick to slide through. This would help protect the coil and keep help keep the heat at the tube.
I guess I should include that this would be for a from scratch atty build, with an adjustable vent in the cap similar to what Lance_Wallen described earlier.
When I get some time I'll model up what I'm thinking (Autodesk Inventor)
I haven't been on this thread in a while but in a different thread people are experimenting with the same thing. They came to the conclusion pyrex is not a good candidate (when heated and cooled rapidly it may break/explode) and quarts glass is a much better alternative (quartz glass is used for fluorescent light bulbs and multiple other high heat to quick cooling applications.
I didn't have time to read through everything I missed on this thread so my apologizes if this has been covered just wanted to post in case it hasn't.
I didn't have time to read through everything I missed on this thread so my apologizes if this has been covered just wanted to post in case it hasn't.
Dan, interested in your take on the various opinions expressed by the fine folks taking part in this thread - after all, you are the reason all the glass companies are shaking their heads in disbelief ("we're not even running a Black Friday sale...")
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