The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

[Rlafontaine1971]

I believe that the Zen atties use a similar concept, so you're probably not far off thinking that

Just curious. What mesh did you use and how did you roll your wick? I've been using 500 mesh rolled solid with very good results but have been changing it up a little bit recently (double wick method). On my "Did" I took the solid wick out and rolled one 37 mm x 45 mm with a good sized opening. I then took a piece of 37 mm x 15 mm and rolled it as tight as I could get it and slid it down into the first piece. Using 28g kanthal I was getting 1.1 ohms. This thing was wicking so fast at 3.3 v that it wouldnt vape, juice was just bubbling oout of the coil. I had to take the voltage up to about 3.7 v and couldnt believe how much vapor it was putting out. Anyway, are you guys rolling the wick solid within the tube or going back to standard type wick dims (40mm x 30 mm) etc.? I was just wondering what the difference between the two would be inserted through this type tube.

 

[TomCatt]

+1 on two chambers asdaq.

But if we need to go to a three chamber redesign, here is an atomizer design concept already in production. It a bit too big at 250mm. I have no idea of the cost...its titanium.

View attachment 155200

Atomizer Parts - New - Atomizer Scrubbing Systems - RPM Solutions, Inc.

 

[Traver]

Just wondering if anyone has considered reversing this and putting the heating element inside the glass and wrapping the wick on the outside? Wouldn't that give a more efficient heat transfer?

 

[spraintz]

It has been discussed in previous posts.

Personally I don't think the possible benefit of heat transfer with the coil inside the tube would be worth the additional problems that would need to be addressed.......wicking would be more difficult as you are not fully utilizing the capillary action of the tube. Coil attachment will be far more difficult while trying to keep the coil free of juice.

Of course this is "open source" coil/wick design so I'm sure a more creative mind than mine could figure it out

I think an optimum design of the type of wick/coil would be one that could be fitted to existing atomizers, however this design IMO is very different due to the theoretical airflow requirements to make this coil work as well or better than current standards that a new atomizer design to fit this type of wick/coil is going to be the best chance for success.

Now, I think there is a chance to produce different top caps for existing atomizers to accommodate the required airflow for this style wick/coil. My personal thought is that the air intake needs hit above the coil (top end of the tube) preferably in an upwards direction to carry vapor straight to the mouthpiece. But hey, I am no engineer or thermodynamicist or fluid dynamicists so I might just be talkin outta my hind

I do not yet have the tooling to try and build a model of what I'm thinking but I am working on it

 

[roadrash]

View attachment 155200

The Atomizer Monitoring System provides the tools to help you manage all aspects of maintaining your Atomizers. Save Time. Save Money. Improve Safety.

I'm sold. :>)

 

[k3vin]

I didn't read the whole thread to see if this was discussed but wonder if stuffing the tube with the old school "blue foam" or something similar besides SS would wick even better.. Just a Thought and a way to mark a spot in this thread..


Oh and to keep the Pyrex from sliding maybe an oring around the glass tube


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[spraintz]

I fear that blue foam stuff would have too much risk of melting to the inside of the tube. SS wicks very very well and with out any risk.

 

[perlionsmitnick]

nope not talking about that one...just one of the pics he posted at one time...the vapor just follows the same pattern...sort of shoots out from the tube...

and Perlionsmitnick.....is your hutt avi changed...it looks different somehow....

and was it the coil...or the wick he said it could do without...hmmm I need to go look...must be getting old...arrgh...eyes and now memory...somebody shoot me

Small report

Do not read if you want to know how to do it. Read only if you want to know what is going on.

Evaporator:
1) My new evaporator is finally as planned. It has some advantages:
a) No more windings. It is not screwed, stuck or something.
b) No more wire. Neither screw nor wind.
c) Fighting with Wire, sieve diameter, winding distances Adios!
d) Can be used with or without screen (!) .
e) seems to be an almost eternal life to do (but somehow I get him broken)
f) have evaporated with just 4Watt, power with 6W, 8W kills you!
Only the power supply I have not brought down to 3.6 V, but that would at industriel manufacturing a no brainer.

Pull Switch:

Alternative to the button I have developed a new pull switch.
Since the pull switch operates without mechanical parts, he can not stick together anymore. But the pull switch can do more. He knows not only on/off, but he also recognizes the strengths. And I am a true miniaturization of the sensor is achieved. The opens completely new possibilities (sometimes even to think about).

And finally:
I am totally befuddled from testing

Greetings from Raidy


.....is your hutt avi changed? if you mean avatar then no, not changed.

 

[k3vin]

Good point spraintz


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[BJ43]

Just curious. What mesh did you use and how did you roll your wick? I've been using 500 mesh rolled solid with very good results but have been changing it up a little bit recently (double wick method). On my "Did" I took the solid wick out and rolled one 37 mm x 45 mm with a good sized opening. I then took a piece of 37 mm x 15 mm and rolled it as tight as I could get it and slid it down into the first piece. Using 28g kanthal I was getting 1.1 ohms. This thing was wicking so fast at 3.3 v that it wouldnt vape, juice was just bubbling oout of the coil. I had to take the voltage up to about 3.7 v and couldnt believe how much vapor it was putting out. Anyway, are you guys rolling the wick solid within the tube or going back to standard type wick dims (40mm x 30 mm) etc.? I was just wondering what the difference between the two would be inserted through this type tube.

The bubbling out the top is not wicking (capillary action) it is thermal rising or also called volcanic rising and the reason to roll tight and dense is to reduce this to a minimum because it is very hard to control and/or regulate. True wicking with 500 or 635 will keep the coils wet without flooding out the top. I normally crimp the top of my wicks completely shut to reduce that inefficient spurting. Dan did a capillary tube/coil a couple of years ago. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/351986-pyrex-ss-hybrid-wick-98.html#post7825895
A center hole in a SS wick does the same thing.

 

[bapgood]

General Properties of Boron Nitride

This stuff look interesting....not sure how its used or etc


Scratch that ....wiki says
Health issues

Boron nitride (along with Si3N4, NbN, and BNC) is reported to show weak fibrogenic activity and cause pneumoconiosis. The maximum concentration recommended for nitrides of nonmetals is 10 mg/m3 for BN and 4 for AlN or ZrN.[8]

 

[asdaq]

Perlion, thanks for looking that up again, it clears some things up. Resistance wire is just simply gone, and it is the mesh that is optional.

He also said there is a part that needs specific fabrication and is beyond a modder's workshop capacity and this is a safety issue. Maybe exploding glass shards???

 

[bapgood]

A small update. I was vaping pretty well with the 2.5 thin wall ........

Cyclotron or others with the Willmad 2.5mm ultra thin wall Pyrex....Any issues with the tube itself?

I have some of the 2.5mm and 3mm showing up tomorrow....I'm thinking the 0.15mm wall on the 2.5mm tube is going to work the best heat wise.


Smok R-Tank

I picked up one of these at my local shop to modify and test with.....I like it for a couple reasons....one, it was the only rba they had....and two, because of the center air inlet.

My thoughts were to extend the center air tube up to just below the top of cap, and try to make it adjustable some how. I will probably try to rig up a single post coil connection like most are using. The base of the atty chamber looks like some kind of plastic so not sure how long that will last.

 

[JPoodles]

Is Raidy on another forum or are his findings here? My curiosity is peaked!

 

[asdaq]

You have to register, but his original thread is here: Elektronisches Rauchen Forum

edit: Aha, some of his stuff is here too, but not all: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/132663-all-my-mods-part1.html

 

[VaporMizer]

Hey, one of those pictures in Raidy's first post looks like it's using a glow plug from a model plane or car 2 stroke engine.

Typod on my Celll Phlone using Tapatalk 2

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

Yea... Raidy doesn't put everything here....Too many prying/copying eyes.....went into shock a few days ago...was looking at Ali Baba and saw copies of stuff I saw here or on a few other forums I frequent first...Damn...they have no shame......they even have Scubagen V3s on there only difference is it has a silica wick......I guess ya can say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.....

Awfully hard for me to read the german forum...it makes most translation setups mad...and I have 8 diff ones

 

[mre777]

Vape mail today!!!... Awe I got my glass tube cutter but the tubes have not come yet Man this is frustrating, I want to experiment too... So is nobody looking to try the air flow from the bottom like in the old vivi?
I like bapgood's plan with that R-Tank. Looks like you will have lots of options to mod that out to find the right setup.

 

[KillFace]

Boron nitride (along with Si3N4, NbN, and BNC) is reported to show weak fibrogenic activity and cause pneumoconiosis.

Yeah, but can it cause pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis?

 

[JazzyTech]

Cyclotron or others with the Willmad 2.5mm ultra thin wall Pyrex....Any issues with the tube itself?

I have some of the 2.5mm and 3mm showing up tomorrow....I'm thinking the 0.15mm wall on the 2.5mm tube is going to work the best heat wise.

View attachment 155318
Smok R-Tank

I picked up one of these at my local shop to modify and test with.....I like it for a couple reasons....one, it was the only rba they had....and two, because of the center air inlet.

My thoughts were to extend the center air tube up to just below the top of cap, and try to make it adjustable some how. I will probably try to rig up a single post coil connection like most are using. The base of the atty chamber looks like some kind of plastic so not sure how long that will last.

LOL! I ordered two of these to try something similiar. Not sure if the poly can handle the heat though... also note that this tank is also called the "Hyper SRT II" (newer version than PBusardo tested and failed) Just an fyi should anyone want to find it.