The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

[d9mel]

Got some willmad 2.5 mm capillary tubing and 3mm thin wall sample tubing today. Very easy to cut, just a light score and slight pressure. The 2.5mm is very thin so the heat from the coil transfers quickly. The glass is holding up very well, no cracks or chips.
I ran a piece of silver nr wire to the 32 ga kanthal coil, but the coil temp gets so high that it kills the vapor. Definitely need to isolate the coil from the vapor chamber. I went ahead and wrapped the coil with soaked silica wick just to test, the flavor is very clean and vapor production is good. Gonna start working on a ss coil sleeve.
Been trying to keep up with this thread but missed a portion, I know ceramics have been discussed and I think a ceramic sleeve over the coil would work well, it would contain the heat from the coil allowing for a lower vapor chamber temp and improved vapor production.
Gonna be interesting to see how this progresses now that folks will start getting the glass

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

Got some willmad 2.5 mm capillary tubing and 3mm thin wall sample tubing today. Very easy to cut, just a light score and slight pressure.

if thats the ceramic stuff I'm Waiting w baited breath to hear results of that

 

[d9mel]

Not ceramic, just brosilicate glass tubing that was brought up at the beginning of the thread.

 

[peteskeet]

for those of you putting your top cap higher to have the air hole above the wick... how has it been vaping?

 

[MikeE3]

Got some willmad 2.5 mm capillary tubing and 3mm thin wall sample tubing today. Very easy to cut, just a light score and slight pressure. The 2.5mm is very thin so the heat from the coil transfers quickly. The glass is holding up very well, no cracks or chips.
I ran a piece of silver nr wire to the 32 ga kanthal coil, but the coil temp gets so high that it kills the vapor. Definitely need to isolate the coil from the vapor chamber. I went ahead and wrapped the coil with soaked silica wick just to test, the flavor is very clean and vapor production is good. Gonna start working on a ss coil sleeve.
Been trying to keep up with this thread but missed a portion, I know ceramics have been discussed and I think a ceramic sleeve over the coil would work well, it would contain the heat from the coil allowing for a lower vapor chamber temp and improved vapor production.
Gonna be interesting to see how this progresses now that folks will start getting the glass

How are you scoring the tubing to cut it?

 

[bapgood]

the coil temp gets so high that it kills the vapor

hmmm........

 

[bapgood]

Is the theory that the excess heat is condensing the vapor?

 

[dsy5]

Is the theory that the excess heat is condensing the vapor?

I wouldn't say condensing it, maybe super-heating it, to where it has expanded the vapor.

 

[d9mel]

I set it up on a aga-t and wound the coil as low as possible, around 4 mm. I re-drilled the airhole on the cap at an angle towards the mouthpiece @3/64th's, but it doesn't have too much of an effect on redirecting the airflow. Trying to set it up so that I can screw the cap on all the way, keep it as functional as possible.

Don't laugh, I used my wife's rigid nail file to score the tubing, my other files are too coarse. Just make a light score then turn the score away from you and apply pressure w/thumbs... Cautiously.

I mainly vape w/vivi novas that I rebuild. I've rebuilt heads where the connection to the nr wire bridges, superheats and eliminates the vapor. This is similar, the wick can create vapor at a low voltage, but the actual vapor output is minimal. At higher voltages you can create enough vapor to over come the negative effects of the coil, but start to over heat the juice.

So far I'm thinking a small sleeve that will fit directly over the coil and insulate the coil from the air chamber will work best... The vapor and flavor have been outstanding w/the silica wick wrap, but that's not the goal of this exercise

 

[bapgood]

I wouldn't say condensing it, maybe super-heating it, to where it has expanded the vapor.

I picked up the R-Tank trying to be lazy.....guess Ill have to break out the mini lathe this weekend for a 3 chamber design I have brewing

 

[dsy5]

The vapor and flavor have been outstanding w/the silica wick wrap, but that's not the goal of this exercise

If the silica wick can last a bit, without becoming too gunked-up, and have a less muted flavor than it normally does, I might be happy with it and the glass tube - at least cleaning would be easier and so would wick replacement. I run a few DIDs with strictly silica and they tend to get rather blackish after a few tanks and need to be cleaned a lot. (Winding a coil on a vertical piece of silica wick is a pain, too...)

 

[d9mel]

I can tell when the mesh heats to temp, the vape sweetens up and the slight menthol comes out (kool cantalope-rasberry diy)
Probably going to order larger diamiter tube and use it as a sleeve over the coil, was avoiding that because of the potential for the glass shattering but the brosilicate is holding up well so far

 

[bstedh]

I am thinking an oversized ceramic tube to slide over the coil will
1. insulate the vapor from the hot coil
2. re-direct heat into the center
3. decrease warm up time due to above.

I don't see ceramic working as a wick tube as ceramic has very high insulating properties. Edit: We want clear tub to allow IR radiation through to the wick.

As stated in another post a special mod may need to be created to make this method work best with a higher start-up voltage and taper down with a thermal monitor for chain vaping.

For those trying to redirect their air flow use a small roll pin or ce2 tube or similar to direct the air at an angle so the air swirls around the top cap instead of directly at any single point. The goal being to evacuate the vapor with minimal cooling of the coil. A couple of very small air holes with this type of channelling may work better then a single one. "venturi effect"

Edit: Looks like the previous poster has similar ideas...

Edit: still haven't found my micro fuses to play with =-[ May have to go kill a microwave radio and steel one =]

 

[Cloud Wizard]

It's not completed yet, but here's my first protoype of a pyrex encapsulated coil on a Standard DID (let me know if the link doesn't work): http://s1341.photobucket.com/albums/o750/Cloud_Wizard/Pyrex and Coil/?albumview=slideshow

Anyone know what I can use to seal the ends? I was going to melt in some silver NR wire, but it would take about 10 feet per end (I melted a few inches of 32awg 0.999 pure Silver down it it all but disappeared...) and the tube can be melted but is way too hot and would sear off the NR wires.

 

[mwa102464]

It's not completed yet, but here's my first protoype of a pyrex encapsulated coil on a Standard DID (let me know if the link doesn't work): http://s1341.photobucket.com/albums/o750/Cloud_Wizard/Pyrex and Coil/?albumview=slideshow

Anyone know what I can use to seal the ends? I was going to melt in some silver NR wire, but it would take about 10 feet per end (I melted a few inches of 32awg 0.999 pure Silver down it it all but disappeared...) and the tube can be melted but is way too hot and would sear off the NR wires.

Wiz,

Your the 1st one who has come close to something I have made, think two tubes, one in the other, coil in between needs to be some wholes in one of the tube, every time you take a pull the same exact amount of liquid for the most part is trapped in between the tubes where your coil wire is A talented Glass blower comes in handy

 

[mre777]

It may work if you only seal one end like the bottom. so you take your coil out and begin heating the tube. when it becomes malleable you put your coil in fast and crimp with pliers.. gona be a trick to juggling all this at once though. and the glass will be weaker afterwards but if its just for a test you might give it a try

Maybe the top as the crimping will deform the tube and it will no longer fit in the wick hole.

 

[d9mel]

very cool! Silver melts w/ a lighter, but you might be able to double up w/resistance wire and make a small crimp in the glass to seal. Have you tested how well the mesh wicks w/that setup?

 

[Cloud Wizard]

I guess I could use normal silicon in the bottom and worry about the top on a later prototype. I want the top closed to eliminate the condensation issues. And, no haven't tested wicking yet. But I did scorch my fingers on a dry burn (it gets hot at the top quickly)

 

[bstedh]

I guess I could use normal silicon in the bottom and worry about the top on a later prototype. I want the top closed to eliminate the condensation issues. And, no haven't tested wicking yet. But I did scorch my fingers on a dry burn (it gets hot at the top quickly)

Roll the tube end slowly in a torch flame and the end will slowly close up. stop just before it closes completely leaving a small hole in the end and very slowly remove from the heat. It may take a couple of times to get it correct but it works very well.

Slowly removing from the heat is very important as it helps anneal the glass too keep it from cracking or shattering as it cools. I have done this many times with fuse glass with very good results. always keep the glass turning....

If the ball you created at the end cracks and pops off you removed the glass from the heat too quickly.

 

[Cloud Wizard]

I tried that on a couple scrap pieces (I like the idea of melting the ends to seal them). Problem was the Silver NR wires hanging out the end melted way before the glass softened. Wonder if I switched over to Nickel NR wire if I'd have better luck