dont dry burn and dont let your wires get red hot clicker. Wash your wire with a toothbrush and soap-water and be careful every time you start feeling that a burn taste is coming. Burn taste is dangerous too because it may damage your lungs and because it produce a lot of acrolein and formaldehyde
Titanium wires
- Thread starter imeothanasis
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when you say wash the wire with a tbrush and soap you mean before installing and vaping with it right?
thanks again
No 2clicker...
he's saying that if you want to clean your coil after several ml of vaping , there is a simplier and safer way to do that without dry burning.
Throw the cotton and use a toothbrush with a drop of liquid soap.
Carefully clean your wire, then put your atty under a tap and wash it out.
Let it dry and put a new cotton.
As Stelios said clicker. Also, you must wash your wire with soap water before make a coil because wires have machine oil on them and who knows what else
We'll see, wether VIR can change my habit of dry burning . I know, that it's not correct, but I'm to lazy after years of vaping, to make a new coil . It's a bad habit , but better then smoking . Do it on my Ithakas updates and my Tilemahos and on my Genesis IN'AX 's. Maybe VIR will change this habit. Difficult, to get Ti 1 in Germany, Ti 2 is no problem
. It's a bad habit , but better then smoking . Do it on my Ithakas updates and my Tilemahos and on my Genesis IN'AX 's. Maybe VIR will change this habit. Difficult, to get Ti 1 in Germany, Ti 2 is no problemno one really knows if dry burning is less dangerous than smoking Blue. Oxides may work like strong poissons to your body, much worse than analogs's components.
Dry burning got well known because of some ignorant people that found that stuck coils may produce more smoke without thinking of health issues. Now that temp devices came to market, you see how right I was from the beginning. But I was beaten as usual.
Anyway, just throw your old habits away like you never had them buddy
Dry burning got well known because of some ignorant people that found that stuck coils may produce more smoke without thinking of health issues. Now that temp devices came to market, you see how right I was from the beginning. But I was beaten as usual.
Anyway, just throw your old habits away like you never had them buddy
thanks for all the insight folks!
i am a mech mod guy. i am not interested in regulated box mods at all. i do like the sound of the VIR, but i really like my short mechs.
having said that... i will do my best to keep the wire in my mechs below the temp of getting red hot, but i know it is still going to happen sometimes. SO... my question is... will there be a device available like the kick stuff that could possibly control the temp on any ol mech mod?
any help is appreciated!
i am a mech mod guy. i am not interested in regulated box mods at all. i do like the sound of the VIR, but i really like my short mechs.
having said that... i will do my best to keep the wire in my mechs below the temp of getting red hot, but i know it is still going to happen sometimes. SO... my question is... will there be a device available like the kick stuff that could possibly control the temp on any ol mech mod?
any help is appreciated!
why do you want something like kick when you can have the best out there Click?
VIR is not just an electronic device, its the device that will protect you from all the harmful stuff.
VIR is not just an electronic device, its the device that will protect you from all the harmful stuff.
why do you want something like kick when you can have the best out there Click?
VIR is not just an electronic device, its the device that will protect you from all the harmful stuff.
well because i already have them is one reason. that way indont have to spend anymore funds. plus i just prefer the simplicity of mech mods. not much can fail. im using a tarsius Prime and i LOVE this mod. i got it a few weeks ago and was planning in it being my device for a while to come.
if i can add temp control to this device im all over it. if not then i suppose i will just have to manually keep an eye on the wire. maybe i should start building higher resistance coils so that it takes longer for it to get red hot.
also, what do we know about how harmful the oxidation is? im not doubting it, but we are still inhaling foreign particles into our lungs. of which is harmful regardless of what it is.
just trying to wrap my brain around all of this so i can make an informed decision.
there is no need for the wire to get red hot to vape acrolein and formaldehyde Clicker. You vape these materials when resistance go up to 280 Celsious degrees and this can be done even if you put a big resistance on your atomizer.
By the way, a red hot coil cant be vaped at all
By the way, a red hot coil cant be vaped at all
I am curious. To anyone who has build using Titanium and Nickel how don they compare? Is the Ti as finicky as the Ni? Higher resistance? Ect
I don't understand what you mean by 'finicky' fright.
I have not used nickel wire, and I probably never will. I also don't have any 'other' devices that require nickel wire. I read plenty of other users that use devices that require nickel wire for temperature limitations, and those were finicky from what I heard.
I can tell you my experience with Ti wire. And yes the Ti wire requires more wire to get the same ohms as if you would use kanthal.
To better explain this, for example....it takes 4 coils wraps of X-size wire of kanthal around X-size bit to make 1 ohm. With Ti wire it might take 7 or 8 wraps of the same size wire as kanthal around the same size bit to make 1 ohm. <---Does that make sense?
Disclaimer: The example above is not in real time. 'X' is the variable factor in the example and it could be any size wire and/or size bit (or drill bit) to make the coil. Anybody attempting to rebuild coils using Ti wire or kanthal should use a multimeter or such devices like an ohm reader to establish their target ohms.
The extra wraps of the Ti wire provides more surface area for vapor, which is what I like. It really is an improvement over kanthal.
The Ti wire inside Tilemahos using rayon wick is such a smooth vape. Even on a Mech like the Esterigon. The Ti wire works every time, I have nothing finicky to say about it.
Haha, examples, and disclaimers....I am being silly. I mean I'm serious, but still silly.
I have not used nickel wire, and I probably never will. I also don't have any 'other' devices that require nickel wire. I read plenty of other users that use devices that require nickel wire for temperature limitations, and those were finicky from what I heard.
I can tell you my experience with Ti wire. And yes the Ti wire requires more wire to get the same ohms as if you would use kanthal.
To better explain this, for example....it takes 4 coils wraps of X-size wire of kanthal around X-size bit to make 1 ohm. With Ti wire it might take 7 or 8 wraps of the same size wire as kanthal around the same size bit to make 1 ohm. <---Does that make sense?
Disclaimer: The example above is not in real time. 'X' is the variable factor in the example and it could be any size wire and/or size bit (or drill bit) to make the coil. Anybody attempting to rebuild coils using Ti wire or kanthal should use a multimeter or such devices like an ohm reader to establish their target ohms.
The extra wraps of the Ti wire provides more surface area for vapor, which is what I like. It really is an improvement over kanthal.
The Ti wire inside Tilemahos using rayon wick is such a smooth vape. Even on a Mech like the Esterigon. The Ti wire works every time, I have nothing finicky to say about it.
Haha, examples, and disclaimers....I am being silly. I mean I'm serious, but still silly.
tried for the first time the titanium wire form esmokeguru - packaged very well, congratulations esmokeguru for the idea of the plastic wheel and the small housing for the wire - well i think i will always use the titanium, the liquids taste very clear unlike other materials that gave ferrous aftertaste
Ah, soft...sometimes I have a hard time changing out my wick because the wick is swollen with juice which makes it tight around the wire. But I can maintain the coil structure by putting the bit into the coil after taking out the old wick. And I do this without taking the wire out of the Tilemahos.
I must admit aal, that my Ti wire experience is only limited to the ESG wire which we know is not Ti 1. But I will have some Ti 1 soon, which I suspect will take the same number of wraps, or maybe a few more, maybe a few less...
I must admit aal, that my Ti wire experience is only limited to the ESG wire which we know is not Ti 1. But I will have some Ti 1 soon, which I suspect will take the same number of wraps, or maybe a few more, maybe a few less...
You are exactly correct. Because of how soft it is it makes wicking it a little delicate. Also it breaks very easily if you are rough with it and over tighten your posts. Hoping Ti isn't the same.
I think, You are right, Imeo, nothing wrong, what You say. But easier said then done by Someone like me, who favours subohm. Will see, wether VIR with his limited wattage can satisfy meno one really knows if dry burning is less dangerous than smoking Blue. Oxides may work like strong poissons to your body, much worse than analogs's components.
Dry burning got well known because of some ignorant people that found that stuck coils may produce more smoke without thinking of health issues. Now that temp devices came to market, you see how right I was from the beginning. But I was beaten as usual.
Anyway, just throw your old habits away like you never had them buddy
. On the IN'AX 's I have stopped dry burning, as it ruins the taste. But a mesh coil lasts very long...but I know, what You think about mesh . MC's with Titanium I have stopped on my GG-devices, conventional coils with Ti perform better. A first step... mesh is even more dangerous Blue because much more surface of the metal wick has to be oxidised. To my opinion, these devices have to leave e-cig market as soon as possible
Not a lot frillo. If you make 5 wraps with esg wire, you will make 7,5 threads with Ti 1
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