I agree that operator error is a major factor in anything.
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I agree that operator error is a major factor in anything.
I am only 5 weeks into this vaping gig and went to a Kanger mini cause of the positive performance factor and I am rebuilding the coils only because I am a tinkerer not because of any issues with Kanger products........
Of course you can fix that, either by changing your vaping technique (most obvious, easy, and inexpensive option) or by installing new positive post insulators (also cheap).
And only 55 times more expensive than a 10 pack of post insulators. Sure, no problem.
I know it costs more but if I hadn't tried to fix my problem I would not have open my wallet for a 110 dollar atomizer. I burned brand new protank insulators within the first five hits out of negligence.
I like to take stupid long inhales and make huge clouds of vapor. I would get 10 seconds into a hit taste rubber. Sorry if I offended anyone's tank of choice, I like it also but for the purpose it was intended to serve.
weird how things work out
I first read about burnt insulators maybe two weeks ago so I went through
my collection and haven't found a single one...
my kanger bcc's perform superb and I love the uniformity of
switching coils between the kanger family...
I first read about burnt insulators maybe two weeks ago so I went through
my collection and haven't found a single one...
my kanger bcc's perform superb and I love the uniformity of
switching coils between the kanger family...
I've never burned one either. But they're easily replaced, either by changing the coil head or recoiling the head with a new positive post insulator.
dude. have you EVER REALLY tried vaping @ 5V on a 2.4 protank? and no vapor..? really?? jeezz.. i guess "you're holding it wrong" or something lol
If your building your coils and burning the insulators your doing something wrong.
Kanger Pro tank comes with a chart that say's
SUITABLE VOLTAGE TO RESISTANCE
RESISTANCE VOLTAGE
1.7 - 1.9 ohms 3.1 - 3.4
2.1 - 2-3 ohms 3.5 - 3.8
2.4 - 2.6 ohms 3.9 - 4.2
2.6 - 3.0 ohms 4.3 - 4.7
This little extra you get with a kranger Protank not with a Protank style tank
If your using a 2.0 ohm coil and vape at 5 volts that will burn the insulator not the fault of the Pro tank.
I prefer quality over price.
Here's how to figure this stuff out.
volts x volt divided by ohms = watts
3 volts x 3 volts = 9 divided by 2 ohms = 4.5 watts
Kanger Pro tank comes with a chart that say's
SUITABLE VOLTAGE TO RESISTANCE
RESISTANCE VOLTAGE
1.7 - 1.9 ohms 3.1 - 3.4
2.1 - 2-3 ohms 3.5 - 3.8
2.4 - 2.6 ohms 3.9 - 4.2
2.6 - 3.0 ohms 4.3 - 4.7
This little extra you get with a kranger Protank not with a Protank style tank
If your using a 2.0 ohm coil and vape at 5 volts that will burn the insulator not the fault of the Pro tank.
I prefer quality over price.
Here's how to figure this stuff out.
volts x volt divided by ohms = watts
3 volts x 3 volts = 9 divided by 2 ohms = 4.5 watts
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I like my HH.357 and mini coils and cotton but my iCLear 16 is a very dependable and easy to use standby. It's loaned out to a friend right now cause i know it will just work.
...
Wrong. Wattage = Voltage squared, divided by resistance.
2 ohms at 3 volts = 9/2 =4.5 watts
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Unfortunately, I had similar bad experiences with pro tanks.
Really wanted them to work well for me because they look beautiful, but after removing/adding wicks, trying different combos of juice, re-wicking and re-coiling I was never satisfied. Inconsistent and unreliable in my experience, either gurgling, leaking or providing burnt/dry hits 70% of the time.
However the 30% of the time I got the best flavor out of any clearo I've used, so if you have the patience or get lucky I can see why they have fans. Just wasn't for me.
Really wanted them to work well for me because they look beautiful, but after removing/adding wicks, trying different combos of juice, re-wicking and re-coiling I was never satisfied. Inconsistent and unreliable in my experience, either gurgling, leaking or providing burnt/dry hits 70% of the time.
However the 30% of the time I got the best flavor out of any clearo I've used, so if you have the patience or get lucky I can see why they have fans. Just wasn't for me.
My PT2 started leaking on day 3, and it ruined a battery, but now I found adding a tad bit of cotton on the wick stops the leak just fine, and now I'm loving it.
I've only been vaping for 3 weeks and have 2 basic ego 1100mah starter kits and use bcc Vision 'Pure' clearos which are easy to use and according to the vids I've seen look easy to recoil but as they're so cheap I'd only do that if desperate ... I've been reading the mpv2 thread and convinced myself to buy one but I'm not tech minded and want to know the best value for money . long lasting tank to use .. any advice appreciated .. I smoked for nearly 50yrs and can't believe it's been 3 weeks since I had a ciggie ... awesome!!!
There are a lot of people on ECF, and not even on forums, that get a lot of good use out of protanks. Just because you're having issues, probably from fussy, thick flavors, doesn't mean everyone else does. I hate clearomizers. I appreciate the iclears, but I don't get down on a chemical that leaches into liquid from polycarbonate that will agonize my estrogen receptors. I would've thought the iclear30s would have had an option to be glass or at least polypropylene...ridiculous.
This tread reminds me a lot of the whole Provari versus other APV arguments. I have two kanger T3s, a PT2, and a Dbox. All work great.
A lot of people call them junk. If you think they are junk give them away. I know people who love ce4s. I personaly dislike them. I gave the two i had away. Same thing with the dual coil cartos i used before i got my first kanger tank, gave them to a buddy who loves them.
The good thing that came out of trolling this thread was a solution to the occasional leaking and gurgling issue. Thanks to all who put that out there. That stuff is what this forum is all about.
A lot of people call them junk. If you think they are junk give them away. I know people who love ce4s. I personaly dislike them. I gave the two i had away. Same thing with the dual coil cartos i used before i got my first kanger tank, gave them to a buddy who loves them.
The good thing that came out of trolling this thread was a solution to the occasional leaking and gurgling issue. Thanks to all who put that out there. That stuff is what this forum is all about.
One of the reasons I prefer glass tanks is that I can be more confident that they will not react with anything in the juice.
Although I'm experimenting with other setups, I still like my PTIIs, and think they'll be in regular rotation for a while to come.
Oddly I've had the exact opposite results, iclear30's I can't get a decent draw off of for nothing, the iclear 16 I had the threads came loose from the mouthpiece due to melting, and still have yet to have a single leak or any other problems on a kanger t3s,t3s mini, pro tank 2 and mini pro 2 . But if you feel brand X is the best vape product for you, then your 100% right
That's interesting. I only tried the iclear 30 because it came with my MVP, and I was somewhat unimpressed with it, more so after seeing so many positive comments about it. It's not "bad", I just didn't think it was the bee's knees like some do.
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