Cartos are pretty much the same. There may be some solder on the tube too, but I'm pretty sure they solder 1st then add the tube. You can push the center post out first from the inside, by gently rotating and increasing pressure with a blunt tool. Then with good tweezers get the rubber insulator out and get to work on the rest, vent, vent, vent. I can't get the end of the tube to peel (run out of tube) without doing a diagonal slice in the SS tube first, as close to the connector as possible without messing up the connector's shoulder. Good luck!
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Ok here is how I remove 510 atty connectors, I was caught by my wife when videoing this, I was able to unscrew the atty connector with a pair of pliers after I concluded the video. She just derailed my train of thought as I was speaking, but it is ok I love her 
Dan
Dan
Hey! You guys ROCK!!! 
Thanks MrD, FlyerTom, asdaq & Scubabatdan!!! Once I read all of your suggestions, I had the atty connectors removed from both mangled cartos and the 510 atomizer in about 2 minutes total! 
I only ruined my 901-510 adapter... But maybe I can get the 901 side back in 'round'. That was my bad because I don't have any dead batteries and I substituted a pair of vise grips. Anyway, all your help is much appreciated! 
Thanks MrD, FlyerTom, asdaq & Scubabatdan!!! Once I read all of your suggestions, I had the atty connectors removed from both mangled cartos and the 510 atomizer in about 2 minutes total! I only ruined my 901-510 adapter... But maybe I can get the 901 side back in 'round'. That was my bad because I don't have any dead batteries and I substituted a pair of vise grips. Anyway, all your help is much appreciated! A small tip for Dan's method:
Include a notch or a hole on the inner portion of the bottom connector so that the juice in the bottom has a chance to get to the hole that feeds the needle. Otherwise you are left with a ring of juice and a dam keeping it from completely emptying. This pic shows the connector, and the ring of juice depends on how much the connector protrudes into the fob:
Include a notch or a hole on the inner portion of the bottom connector so that the juice in the bottom has a chance to get to the hole that feeds the needle. Otherwise you are left with a ring of juice and a dam keeping it from completely emptying. This pic shows the connector, and the ring of juice depends on how much the connector protrudes into the fob:
Ummm, asdaq could you please explain this? I'm not following... 
Thanks!A small tip for Dan's method:
Include a notch or a hole on the inner portion of the bottom connector so that the juice in the bottom has a chance to get to the hole that feeds the needle. Otherwise you are left with a ring of juice and a dam keeping it from completely emptying. This pic shows the connector, and the ring of juice depends on how much the connector protrudes into the fob:
Good Idea asdaq
I have aslo noticed that if I seal this thing up using the pill fob O-Ring that the performance drops, If I remove the O-Ring from the Pill Fob Top, air is allowed in though the threading of the pill fob and works much better. A one way check valve for air is needed if you intend on sealing this up completely so no liquid leaks out when tilted or laid in any position.
I have aslo noticed that if I seal this thing up using the pill fob O-Ring that the performance drops, If I remove the O-Ring from the Pill Fob Top, air is allowed in though the threading of the pill fob and works much better. A one way check valve for air is needed if you intend on sealing this up completely so no liquid leaks out when tilted or laid in any position.
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Dan,
I noticed in your photos that the O-ring was removed from your mod, and I considered doing the same but the pair that I made this past weekend are used on passthroughs at my PCs at home and work. I didn't much care to have juice leaking out onto my desk since the things are mostly in the horizontal position.
I was getting a hernia of the crania trying to draw the juice up into the atty at first until I tried a little trick:
I cut a thin slice off of a silicone cap and slid it over the atty. When I recharge the atty, I slide the donut down over the air slots on the atty and take a quick draw or two. This pulls a goodly amount of juice up the needle without collapsing the top of my head.
If you pull too hard, you'll get a mouthful of juice (not so bad with Ms. Ts wintergreen ) but unpleasant otherwise. I just slide the rubber back off the slots when I'm ready to resume.These things really work a treat.
I can't thank you, and MisterD, and asdaq, and whomever else contributed to this design, enough. The next round's on me.
Dan,
I noticed in your photos that the O-ring was removed from your mod, and I considered doing the same but the pair that I made this past weekend are used on passthroughs at my PCs at home and work. I didn't much care to have juice leaking out onto my desk since the things are mostly in the horizontal position.
I was getting a hernia of the crania trying to draw the juice up into the atty at first until I tried a little trick:
I cut a thin slice off of a silicone cap and slid it over the atty. When I recharge the atty, I slide the donut down over the air slots on the atty and take a quick draw or two. This pulls a goodly amount of juice up the needle without collapsing the top of my head.
These things really work a treat.
I can't thank you, and MisterD, and asdaq, and whomever else contributed to this design, enough. The next round's on me.
Yes I ment to follow up on that but you beat me, I have been using a cut carto silicon cover. Slide it up over the connection when you want to lay it down, and slide it down when vaping. If I inhale normally the juice is not sucked up, but if inhale sharply I get a gurgle slurp sound and I can go back to vaping normally.
Hope this helps others, Thanks again.
Dan
Tom, glad to hear you are enjoying, and it sounds like you are taking the ego cone air restriction to the extreme. Perhaps just tightening the draw would reach that happy medium.
Dan, have you tried using the o-ring but not tightening down the fob lid all the way? If there is a slight gap for air, juice is bound to get in there too, but once wet (the o-ring) in an idle state, air should no longer pass and the juice will stop. Unless, you leave it sitting in the hot sun.
Dan, have you tried using the o-ring but not tightening down the fob lid all the way? If there is a slight gap for air, juice is bound to get in there too, but once wet (the o-ring) in an idle state, air should no longer pass and the juice will stop. Unless, you leave it sitting in the hot sun.
Tom, glad to hear you are enjoying, and it sounds like you are taking the ego cone air restriction to the extreme. Perhaps just tightening the draw would reach that happy medium.
Dan, have you tried using the o-ring but not tightening down the fob lid all the way? If there is a slight gap for air, juice is bound to get in there too, but once wet (the o-ring) in an idle state, air should no longer pass and the juice will stop. Unless, you leave it sitting in the hot sun.
The problem I believe is I did not strip/rough the threads up so with the o-ring in place I get no neg connection, without it connection is fine. I will have to try sanding the threads and see if that fixes the problem.
Dan
Some small changes here. My mentos mod had a built in suckaton, with just the positive wire going up the bottom and relying on the case to seal shut and provide the ground. Sealing it worked alright but the ground became quite elusive, so time to change it up.
The mod got a recessed connector socket and the pill fob got a carto connector added to the bottom with the center post soldered shut and notched as per Dan's Very Nice Idea.
The side holes are left alone, they are below the carto rubber insulator, also used here.
A 16G section was lightly soldered into the post, then snapped free. It fits snugly, but can be raised or rotated as desired, but doesn't get past the post's hole.
The top connector is the small 510 with a slightly enlarged center hole to fit a rubber carto insulator and a large connector's center post (which is bigger and lets the 16G needle pass cleanly). It is all very snug so my valve idea sort of went by the wayside here.
The top end of the needle was trimmed flat and then notched twice as seen here:
With the top on, the needle protrudes only slightly through the connector and the notches reach down below the connector like here:
The effect gives air a chance to get through for a carto and the 16G needle, and a droplet of juice sticks to the notches 'priming' the juicing function.
After a week of use, I really like it and it's great for both atties and cartos. I made a 18G section to slip in for cartos, but haven't even needed it.
The mod got a recessed connector socket and the pill fob got a carto connector added to the bottom with the center post soldered shut and notched as per Dan's Very Nice Idea.
The side holes are left alone, they are below the carto rubber insulator, also used here.
A 16G section was lightly soldered into the post, then snapped free. It fits snugly, but can be raised or rotated as desired, but doesn't get past the post's hole.
The top connector is the small 510 with a slightly enlarged center hole to fit a rubber carto insulator and a large connector's center post (which is bigger and lets the 16G needle pass cleanly). It is all very snug so my valve idea sort of went by the wayside here.
The top end of the needle was trimmed flat and then notched twice as seen here:
With the top on, the needle protrudes only slightly through the connector and the notches reach down below the connector like here:
The effect gives air a chance to get through for a carto and the 16G needle, and a droplet of juice sticks to the notches 'priming' the juicing function.
After a week of use, I really like it and it's great for both atties and cartos. I made a 18G section to slip in for cartos, but haven't even needed it.
Cool!,
Check this out, I made a home made atomizer, specifically for the tube juice feeder
I used a pill fob that I cut the top threading off of, cleaned up the threading and screwed two tops of a pil fob on it to make a small container. I then added an atty connector, heating coil, and blank cartridge. Mounts right on the SUCKaTON and works beautifully! Even fits the MEGA SUCKaTON
Dan
Check this out, I made a home made atomizer, specifically for the tube juice feeder
I used a pill fob that I cut the top threading off of, cleaned up the threading and screwed two tops of a pil fob on it to make a small container. I then added an atty connector, heating coil, and blank cartridge. Mounts right on the SUCKaTON and works beautifully! Even fits the MEGA SUCKaTON
Dan
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Dan, I've had my suspicions, now I'm pretty sure: Your fobs have taken on the ability to reproduce, we can clearly see them doin it in pics 4 & 5.
Any chance of the little one getting mini-attified?
Any chance of the little one getting mini-attified?
LOL, Back to work you....!
Shhhhhh slow music playing do not disturb
Should be no problem, the heating coil is the width of the atty connector so it would fit, just need to do the same thing, will try making one tommorow.
Dan
Hey, I had some time tonight
Pic one: The mini tube feeder and atomizer, The mega tube feeder and atomizer.
Pic two: removed from the feeders.
Pic three Mix and match!
Hows it looking?
Dan
Pic one: The mini tube feeder and atomizer, The mega tube feeder and atomizer.
Pic two: removed from the feeders.
Pic three Mix and match!
Hows it looking?
Dan
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Ok it is working, I even can use the mini atty I made as a drip atty, or with my riva
Here are the pics:
Dan
Here are the pics:
Dan
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and the modding award winner is... Mr scubabatDan!!!!
you master in anything you do! but if i was to pick one of yours infinite gift on the ecig art i'd pick the liquid DIY! (my trials are zie worst)
can i have that lil fat one?
can you make another video?
you master in anything you do! but if i was to pick one of yours infinite gift on the ecig art i'd pick the liquid DIY! (my trials are zie worst)
can i have that lil fat one?
can you make another video?
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