Sorry the pictures are so small, its the best I could do within the forum's limits
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Yin & Yang too - you're clearly in harmony with the life force Santa 
Perhaps you should now change your handle to "HappySanta"
Perhaps you should now change your handle to "HappySanta" 
I found the Husky LED flashlight 3 pack at Home Depot. Gutted the switch it comes with and have taken the 6 LED front piece off. Gonna remove the LEDs and wire up the atomizer. Looks like I will easily be able to scoot the PCB board up higher in order to fit a single 18650 2500Mah battery nicely inside. Just need to get it all done and go find a switch that will work for this application. I really want to have the switch on the side, so I'm thinking of using a tactile switch instead of the larger one. Depends on what I can find. I can deal with the larger size as long as it does the job, these 18650 batteries are larger than I thought. Trying to make it so that I can easily remove the batteries for replacement. Will also need to hunt down a piece of PVC that the battery can slip into to hold it in place inside the casing. I'm opting for a single 3.7v 18650 2500Mah instead of 2x3v CR123A's. Will post progress and results...
BTW, can anyone recommend a charger for the 18650 batteries?
BTW, can anyone recommend a charger for the 18650 batteries?
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Hey Bastage welcome to the Dark - (er I mean Flashlight
) side.Your avatar is perfect now.
I still have 2 USB cables that I use, just looking to make something portable and still reliable. As soon as I can find time I'll get to modding...
I see a lot of talk on here about switches. Would this work?
DealExtreme: $2.43 Repair Parts Replacement L+R Buttons Switches for NDS Lite (2-Piece Set)
DealExtreme: $2.43 Repair Parts Replacement L+R Buttons Switches for NDS Lite (2-Piece Set)
I'm sure a Nintendo DS switch would work but don't go out of your way to use those...almost any small pushbutton switch will work
The problem with any switch around that size is that they are usually rated about 0.1 of an amp, your atomiser draws about 1 amp so it's not a good idea to place them inline with the atomiser. Thats why I am using a MOSFET transistor, take a look at my earlier reply in this thread.
Well, one step closer to finishing my external powered e-cig. This is it. I love the irony of using a Tobacco Tin . The problem is being able to use a very small switch which is not able to handle the current required to make the atomiser work. To this end I have added two components that allow me to use a very tiny switch.
A quick description The Auto Reset Fuse is simply there to protect the 3 x AA batteries which supply 3.6V, measuring more like 4.2V off load. The Mosfet transistor is the main component that allows the use of a very small switch and the 1M ohm resistor is there to make sure the mosfet turns off when the switch is released. When the switch is pressed the Mosfet is turned hard on and allows the full current required to flow through the atomiser and the 5V led is there to indicate that power is there. When the Mosfet is turned on the Mosfet has an internal resistance of less that 0.01 ohms, the result is that the Mosfet has negligible effect, as if the atomiser was directly connected to the batteries. Im using a 3.5mm stereo jack plug and socket to connect the cable which in turn is connected to the adaptor / switch that the atomiser is screwed onto.
Now did all you Dummies looking for a way to make a simple USB Mod for your e-cig understand that ?
Wait 'till you see the USB Mod for Experts thread. Now that really is challenging.
Yep got it..USB mod for dummies..now where is the hammer..
All I do is get the switch and hammer it into the battery..then get the resistor and hammer it into the switch..then pick up all the pieces and place into the tobacco tin..
How many times do I hammer to get the best connection ?
All I do is get the switch and hammer it into the battery..then get the resistor and hammer it into the switch..then pick up all the pieces and place into the tobacco tin..
How many times do I hammer to get the best connection ?
7slicetoastie
that is exactly my level of technical expertise,
but first I have to get my glasses,
and a magnifying glass so I can
SEE THE DAM SWITCH !!!!!!
I have to beg the clever guys to help me.
Di .....
that is exactly my level of technical expertise,
but first I have to get my glasses,
and a magnifying glass so I can
SEE THE DAM SWITCH !!!!!!
I have to beg the clever guys to help me.
Di .....
You're correct in what you're saying but I've never heard of people having their 0.1A spec switches melting away. You see, you only press it for a few seconds and let go again. I bet the switches in commercial push-button cigs aren't rated for the job as well. And my rule is; if it's working, it's working
Exactly. It's working. Both of mine are working just fine, it's been a while now and I'm using 2 different switches. Those ratings are likely sustained ratings. These switches are normally open so there's no problem. If I do have one that fails I'll let everyone know but so far so good. No need for an elaborate switching mechanism.
We all agree on one thing, the standard batteries that come with our e-cigs are not good enough for what we want. We all try different methods to achieve our desired effect of longer lasting batteries. Some methods suit people and some do not. Let's not argue over the methods used because everybodies ideal is different, instead lets just look at the ideas and choose whatever suits us.
Now did all you Dummies looking for a way to make a simple USB Mod for your e-cig understand that ?
Wait 'till you see the USB Mod for Experts thread. Now that really is challenging.
Yep got it..USB mod for dummies..now where is the hammer..
All I do is get the switch and hammer it into the battery..then get the resistor and hammer it into the switch..then pick up all the pieces and place into the tobacco tin..
How many times do I hammer to get the best connection ?
ROTFLMGAO
You guys beat me to it! That is exactly my reactions. I do not have the tools, the patience, or the manual skills required for this
. GrumpySanta's is definitely too advanced for me - I'm sure it is a very valid mod, just beyond my skill or desire.Guys, let me know when you are tired of your creations, I will gladly accept hand-me-downs.
I haven't laughed this hard in ages, thanks all.
Thanks Kate,
I'm not saying my way is the right or wrong way to do it, just a way of doing it, If I could trust the little switches to take the current then I would do it Bastage's way. Whatever way we do it, if it works for you then great.
I'm not saying my way is the right or wrong way to do it, just a way of doing it, If I could trust the little switches to take the current then I would do it Bastage's way. Whatever way we do it, if it works for you then great.
Grumpy, I don't really understand your concerns. I mean, you're there when you push the switch. It's not a device you plug in and leave on over night. So what exactly are you afraid of? When you press the non-trustable switch and get a funny smell then just let go and decide that it couldn't cope with the current you're running through it. If everything goes OK then just stick with it. It's not rocket science we're talking about here
why would a manufacturer only spec a switch at 100mA if it was capable of handling 1000mA. Over 40 years in electronics tell me that the maximum that switch is capable of handling is 200mA as most manufacturers will spec to safety limits. I am pleased that people like Bastage have not had any problems but I would be disapointed in myself if I suggested to someone that it is safe and that person had an accident because if my suggestion. I really hope that Bastage and everyone using the small switch never have a problem but as I say, over 40 years experience has taught me to take manufacturers specs into consideration. I hope that whatever method people use works safely for them.
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