Avail Vapor has the Stout for $59 online or in store
AVAIL | Vape Forward Vaporflask Stout
They also have the Lite for $49
AVAIL | Vape Forward Vaporflask Stout
They also have the Lite for $49
Vape Forward Stout thread
- Thread starter Marc411
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Maybe someone can help me here since google search was pointless, i tried updating my stout and it was working good, i plugged into the usb port opened the software and it read my current info, I went to upgrade and my stout turned off and now it wont turn back on, and update couldn't be completed.
update i got it to turn back on but now it wont read on the PC to update, any suggestions?
update #2 i got it smh @ me
update i got it to turn back on but now it wont read on the PC to update, any suggestions?
update #2 i got it smh @ me
Last edited:
I have to say i'm disappointed with stout temp control, stouts temp control works by cutting off power when you hit the adjusted temp, and you have flavor gap of second or more wtf?!, SX minis temp control is constantly adjusting power and you really don't notice when you reach the determined temp.
Also i have problem with SS316 ramp up time, sometimes it just want fire immediately, you have to hold fire button for second or two to fire and displays says "Temp Protection" but after second or two it start to heat up.
Also coil recognition is bad i have to unscrew atty fire it blank and sometimes only sometimes it really asks for new coil. Why can i press button for new coil like on SX mini?
Also i have problem with SS316 ramp up time, sometimes it just want fire immediately, you have to hold fire button for second or two to fire and displays says "Temp Protection" but after second or two it start to heat up.
Also coil recognition is bad i have to unscrew atty fire it blank and sometimes only sometimes it really asks for new coil. Why can i press button for new coil like on SX mini?
I only vape in tc and I get nothing but smooth flavor on my Classic.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk
It sounds like you may have an issue with your device or atomizers. I run Ni, Ti and SS on both of my Stouts and have real good results although I prefer wattage mode for SS. So may factors come into play with TL, atomizer, airflow and coil connections that you may have a problem somewhere else. Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not saying that you aren't having issues but I can tell you that both of mine have been running TL almost as well as well as my SX mods. I have dna, Yihi and Wismec and my SX Mini's are the best without a doubt.
Either way I'm sorry to hear you are having issues. You should call the VF customer service, they are a great group. I'd be willing to bet they would tell you something is wrong and try to help you out.
Yihi does temp control differently than everyone else. My stout works well in temp control but I have to use it at different settings than my SX. The new coil up/same down will only come on when the chip reads a different range in resistance. If the resistance is in range it will not ask for a new coil. If you only used the SX for TL then there is a bit of a learning curve.
Call VF they are great and can answer all of questions.
I use SS in the default SS mode and it works best for me that way.
Sent from my iPhone
Call VF they are great and can answer all of questions.
I use SS in the default SS mode and it works best for me that way.
Sent from my iPhone
The Stout is the first device I've been able to get TC to work consistently with at all. Nickel seemed OK, but SS works the best for me.
Started out using Kanthal in power mode, and had no complaints. Vape was as to be expected. Then went to a nickel coil in a Triton, and low and behold, it worked, and was stable! Next, I tried TC using an SS316 coil in a Cubis, and was blown away by the purity of flavor.
Picked up a roll of SS316 26AWG from Kidney Puncher (price was way higher than I would've expected btw), and made a nice .57ohm 3mm spaced coil and put it in a KF4 (which is notoriously bad at TC). Been vaping away on that coil ever since! Been about a week now, and it's performing perfectly. Stable and consistent. I've removed the atty a couple of times to inspect the build, and each time the device asks if it's a new coil. FWIW, I'm running a rayon wick at 450°F @ 20w.
Been using Imren 5500mah 26650's, and they're giving me 2-2.5 days of run time.
After a month or so of use, I'm very pleased with the Stout. My only complaint is the black plastic around the fire button is just ever-so-slightly loose. It's not noticeable visually, but I can "feel" it when I fire the device.
Started out using Kanthal in power mode, and had no complaints. Vape was as to be expected. Then went to a nickel coil in a Triton, and low and behold, it worked, and was stable! Next, I tried TC using an SS316 coil in a Cubis, and was blown away by the purity of flavor.
Picked up a roll of SS316 26AWG from Kidney Puncher (price was way higher than I would've expected btw), and made a nice .57ohm 3mm spaced coil and put it in a KF4 (which is notoriously bad at TC). Been vaping away on that coil ever since! Been about a week now, and it's performing perfectly. Stable and consistent. I've removed the atty a couple of times to inspect the build, and each time the device asks if it's a new coil. FWIW, I'm running a rayon wick at 450°F @ 20w.
Been using Imren 5500mah 26650's, and they're giving me 2-2.5 days of run time.
After a month or so of use, I'm very pleased with the Stout. My only complaint is the black plastic around the fire button is just ever-so-slightly loose. It's not noticeable visually, but I can "feel" it when I fire the device.
Is there a coupon code for the Stout and Lite prices you posted ?, I just visited their site and they're posted at RRP.
Not really, already own a Lite and not in the market, figured I'd check their site for other sweet deals...definitely a great deal on either one of the VF's for sure, the lite is a definite favorite.
Saw that my local B&M has the VF lite and stout flasks in stock. Build quality is nice; the first electronic cigarette gear I ever bought was a joyetech 510, then the first ego-t when it came out and felt giant compared to the standard 510 cigalike. Anyhow, I digress.
They had a VF lite in silver, and I really like the finish. For once, I didn't want a black mod. They only had the stout in black, so I bought it in black. I also bought a red efest 3000 mah 26650, with the foreknowledge that I needed to keep an eye on battery temperatures since it is a rewrap (more on this later). I usually vape at 45-60 Watts when I use a single cell regulated mod.
I installed a charged vtc4 into the converter sleeve and proceeded to test the VFS in wattage mode. Hits like it should, set to 100 Watts on a fresh battery and (very) subohm atty it will hit once it twice at 100 then throttle the power or refuse to hit if it detects too much battery sag.
Put a new set of SS coils in my UD Jakiro RDA, updated the firmware to 2.1 and have been putting it through its paces in SS TC mode. Works great, TC wattage throttling happens pretty abruptly when your wicks run out of juice. I usually vape around 400-440°f and my rayon still looks brand new. The VF stout doesn't seem to stomp vtc4s flat as quickly as the evic VTCmini does.
The display is indeed a bit dim. I wouldn't hold out for a brightness increase in a firmware update; the oled display is probably already as bright as it can go.
Been using the stout as my goto mod for three days now, and my conclusions so far are:
This is a great mod that is nerfed by the lack of 26650 batteries that are up to snuff.
Case in point is the red efest 3000mah 26650 I bought. Fully charged at 4.2 volts it has so much voltage sag that the mod won't hit at 60 Watts in power mode; I hit the button and watch the battery bars drop down to 1 or empty. If you have a stout that won't reliably fire, your battery might not have enough current handling capability. The 26650 hits noticably softer as well. I have zero problems with vtc4s in the converter sleeve. I know that all batteries are not created equal; stay the hell away from the red efest...total waste of cash. I am confident that the stout isn't likely to let a battery vent, though.
The Stout should realistically be a 60-75 watt mod, at least until a better 26650 is created.
No they don't. All TC mods work by measuring the resistance increase in the atomizer as the coils heat. Using this coefficient, your mod estimates the temperature of the coils, reducing power when they have reached your set limit.
Don't be fooled by output being measured in joules. 1 Joule = 1 watt x 1 second, everyone else just assumes that time happens at the same rate for you as it does for everyone else and just calls a watt a watt.
If you feel like your TC is pulsing too hard reduce the wattage and things should smooth out.
They had a VF lite in silver, and I really like the finish. For once, I didn't want a black mod. They only had the stout in black, so I bought it in black. I also bought a red efest 3000 mah 26650, with the foreknowledge that I needed to keep an eye on battery temperatures since it is a rewrap (more on this later). I usually vape at 45-60 Watts when I use a single cell regulated mod.
I installed a charged vtc4 into the converter sleeve and proceeded to test the VFS in wattage mode. Hits like it should, set to 100 Watts on a fresh battery and (very) subohm atty it will hit once it twice at 100 then throttle the power or refuse to hit if it detects too much battery sag.
Put a new set of SS coils in my UD Jakiro RDA, updated the firmware to 2.1 and have been putting it through its paces in SS TC mode. Works great, TC wattage throttling happens pretty abruptly when your wicks run out of juice. I usually vape around 400-440°f and my rayon still looks brand new. The VF stout doesn't seem to stomp vtc4s flat as quickly as the evic VTCmini does.
The display is indeed a bit dim. I wouldn't hold out for a brightness increase in a firmware update; the oled display is probably already as bright as it can go.
Been using the stout as my goto mod for three days now, and my conclusions so far are:
This is a great mod that is nerfed by the lack of 26650 batteries that are up to snuff.
Case in point is the red efest 3000mah 26650 I bought. Fully charged at 4.2 volts it has so much voltage sag that the mod won't hit at 60 Watts in power mode; I hit the button and watch the battery bars drop down to 1 or empty. If you have a stout that won't reliably fire, your battery might not have enough current handling capability. The 26650 hits noticably softer as well. I have zero problems with vtc4s in the converter sleeve. I know that all batteries are not created equal; stay the hell away from the red efest...total waste of cash. I am confident that the stout isn't likely to let a battery vent, though.
The Stout should realistically be a 60-75 watt mod, at least until a better 26650 is created.
No they don't. All TC mods work by measuring the resistance increase in the atomizer as the coils heat. Using this coefficient, your mod estimates the temperature of the coils, reducing power when they have reached your set limit.
Don't be fooled by output being measured in joules. 1 Joule = 1 watt x 1 second, everyone else just assumes that time happens at the same rate for you as it does for everyone else and just calls a watt a watt.
If you feel like your TC is pulsing too hard reduce the wattage and things should smooth out.
Welll um... yes and no.
While ultimately they all measure coil 'base resistance' and then measure while the coil heats up (and guesstimate the temperature), how often a mod measures the resistance and how often it acts on the measured value (and HOW it acts on the measured value) is often different between different chips.
There is also a difference between different chip models. For example, on a IPV4S I can hear/taste/feel the regulation while the same tank mounted on a SX350J or S350Jv2 will be smooth as silk.
While ultimately all chips/mods may have the same or similar goal(s) in mind, how DNA, Joytech, SXK, YiHi and Dicodes reach that goal can be entirely different.
While ultimately they all measure coil 'base resistance' and then measure while the coil heats up (and guesstimate the temperature), how often a mod measures the resistance and how often it acts on the measured value (and HOW it acts on the measured value) is often different between different chips.
- some mods will simply turn off power to the coil when the temperature target is reached and then switch it on/off in attempts to maintain the set point
- some mods will regulate the power delivered to the coil based on set point and actual temperature
- how often a mod reads the resistance (IE: temperature) and makes an adjustment based on the reading is also different between different chips
There is also a difference between different chip models. For example, on a IPV4S I can hear/taste/feel the regulation while the same tank mounted on a SX350J or S350Jv2 will be smooth as silk.
While ultimately all chips/mods may have the same or similar goal(s) in mind, how DNA, Joytech, SXK, YiHi and Dicodes reach that goal can be entirely different.
But I notice that the screens all have different colour
Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
Guys, has anyone else had an issue with the battery door easily coming loose?
When going about my daily business, I sometimes look and see the battery door in the unsnapped position. . I'm not sure if this a common problem or not, but my particular specimen doesn't seem to lock positively well to the point where I don't need to regularly check it.
Any advice?...
When going about my daily business, I sometimes look and see the battery door in the unsnapped position. . I'm not sure if this a common problem or not, but my particular specimen doesn't seem to lock positively well to the point where I don't need to regularly check it.
Any advice?...
Shorter battery that puts less pressure on the spring would be my first suggestion. Most of the battery door failures I've seen/read about are directly related to using a longer-than-ideal battery in it.
Thanks for the reply
I'm using a mxjo 4200/22 currently. So yes, there seems to be a loose fit. The thing is, I love this device so much except for this issue... what Batts are u using?
Are the basens a better fit?
I'm using a mxjo 4200/22 currently. So yes, there seems to be a loose fit. The thing is, I love this device so much except for this issue... what Batts are u using?
Are the basens a better fit?
I'm using the Basen 4500. Fits like a glove and no problem with the door on mine.
The "Stout" is on my current next mod list for its size and 26650.
Is everyone happy with their purchase? I watched on uTube video that claimed that the TC was dismal. Does the TC work at least as well as other Joytech/Wismec products?
Is everyone happy with their purchase? I watched on uTube video that claimed that the TC was dismal. Does the TC work at least as well as other Joytech/Wismec products?
- Status
Similar threads
