Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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I tried using a screw and found it hideously fiddly. I managed to hand wrap it by eye surprisingly evenly. But once I had wrangled the leads onto the atty posts, and pulled my wicking through, the coil looked like the dog had eaten it, pooped it out then eaten it again. I'm looking forward to mastering it, and if I need help I will create a separate thread ;-) , so this one can stay pure.
https://youtu.be/PYtby7YMopI, posted the link purposely, it's the one a few posts back. Is no one going to comment on the resistance of the nickel coiled atomizer that he had, it was something like 0.38Ω? I'm doing good to get one as high as 0.2Ω.
This is with 28 gauge nickel, 2.5 mm id, I can use my imagination and figure around 0.24Ω if I were to use 30 gauge.
Maybe his was 4 mm or something.
This guy sounds like those chaps that used to sell Wonder mops and knife sets on TV at three in the morning.
"Wait there's more"!
Which VF were you getting from FC? Going to get the same one from 3F?
I know if I were buying today I'd be using 3F, based on what I've read. I just hope no one tries to take advantage of 3F's generous warranty policy. Not saying anyone here would do that, just saying.
Thanks, I actually work in a hardware store. Going to check there first and if we don't carry a small one, I can probably get one from one out our suppliers.
HD
Hi guys, I have been vaping for years but am out of the loop, because I still use chucks with old 801 attys.
I wanted to buy a vape flask clone with a tank and atomizers.
I do not not have time to read all 300+ pages of this thread. Could some one answer these simple questions for me?
1. The vape flask clone which is the best and most reliable model? Where to buy?
2. Why do some pictures contain a dual battery and some not?
3. Which tank and atomizers would you recommend with the vape flask. Is nautilus any good?
4. What ohm atomizers on this system work best for a medium vape (not too hot and not too smooth).
5. Do you guys mostly use rebuild able atomizers with the vape flask or not?
6. Any other proven and reliable box mods I should be looking at? (Max $100)
Thanks
Quo
I wanted to buy a vape flask clone with a tank and atomizers.
I do not not have time to read all 300+ pages of this thread. Could some one answer these simple questions for me?
1. The vape flask clone which is the best and most reliable model? Where to buy?
2. Why do some pictures contain a dual battery and some not?
3. Which tank and atomizers would you recommend with the vape flask. Is nautilus any good?
4. What ohm atomizers on this system work best for a medium vape (not too hot and not too smooth).
5. Do you guys mostly use rebuild able atomizers with the vape flask or not?
6. Any other proven and reliable box mods I should be looking at? (Max $100)
Thanks
Quo
I'm surprised how fast focalecig responds back to me. Just sent the video this morning. We'll see what happens.
Screw the screw. Nail it instead.
Worked well for me, makes for a nice consistent vape, seems to wick a wee bit better being hollow, there's some non-destructive flexibility if you want to get creative with coil/wick placement on the build deck, and it lets you use even stupid thin 32ga or 34ga Ni200 with no worries. It's especially useful on vertical coil builds, like for a Veritas or Marquis.
Downside, when the coil gets gunked, you're rebuilding the whole thing again. And it's not a photogenic coil when its done, and some folks do care about that for some reason.
Screw the screw. Nail it instead.
Worked well for me, makes for a nice consistent vape, seems to wick a wee bit better being hollow, there's some non-destructive flexibility if you want to get creative with coil/wick placement on the build deck, and it lets you use even stupid thin 32ga or 34ga Ni200 with no worries. It's especially useful on vertical coil builds, like for a Veritas or Marquis.
Downside, when the coil gets gunked, you're rebuilding the whole thing again. And it's not a photogenic coil when its done, and some folks do care about that for some reason.
So, if i'm using a custard juice, I'll pretty much have to change out my coil every couple of days? I hear the ni200 doesn't gunk up as easy as kanthal.
Not true in my experience. Custard still takes a toll on TC builds.
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Screw the screw. Nail it instead.
Worked well for me, makes for a nice consistent vape, seems to wick a wee bit better being hollow, there's some non-destructive flexibility if you want to get creative with coil/wick placement on the build deck, and it lets you use even stupid thin 32ga or 34ga Ni200 with no worries. It's especially useful on vertical coil builds, like for a Veritas or Marquis.
Downside, when the coil gets gunked, you're rebuilding the whole thing again. And it's not a photogenic coil when its done, and some folks do care about that for some reason.
That is the method I used on ALL my Kanthal builds except I used the a blunt 18 Ga syringe as the form.
I am somewhat of n00b at some of this nickel coil stuff but I'll try to answer your questions as best I am able.
This is based on my reading just about every post in this thread and scanning through other threads about the
DNA 40 chip and the similar made by Kangxin; the KX40D. So please remember some of this is based on my
experience, some based on recommendations and reviews by other members of this astute forum... so here we go:
1. I have the Vapor Flask V3 by Kangxin. It uses their own chipset and so far it seems to be working fine, no hiccups really.
However a couple of minor issues with it; first the 510 connection pin screw is a little too loose for me so I took two O-rings for
a Taifun GT center screw. They're roughly about a 3.5mm OD and a 2.5mm ID. I stacked them on the adjustable 510 screw and
now it is stiffer and doesn't float around when changing atomizers.
There is another made by Waidea Time. I have heard of issues with it. It shows a stainless steel 510 connection without an adj.
center pin. I just am now sure whether it's a spring loaded or not. It looks more like the original though, almost a 1:1 replica.
So if there is anyone else with more info on the Waidea Time Vapor Flask perhaps they'll chime in.
2. ALL of the Vapor Flask replicas use 2 18650 batteries, but they must be a "flat-top" style versus the "nipple-top" style, because
the latter are too long for the battery compartments. Most folks are recommending either the SONY VCT4 or VCT5 batteries or the
LG HE2 or HE4 (which is newer and runs cooler) batteries. I am using the LG HE 4 and they're working great! The actual model
number printed on the battery wrapping is: LGDBHE41865
3. A LOT of the members really like the Lemo RTA since it has massive air flow and a good solid center positive connection.
I have read is that the atomizer be very stable in it's resistance so the reading doesn't hop around.
Others are using their standard RDA units. The coils for the "Temperature Protection" feature to work must be between 0.10 to 1.00 ohms.
In addition, the coils must be wrapped from ni200 nickel wire. I don't about the Nautilus as a good atomizer if you want to use the TP feature.
Right now I'm using Kayfun V4s from Tobeco (they're the most stable I've found with resistance, basically rock solid!) and I use Taifun GT II RTAs.
My coil builds are at .20 ohm with 28ga. ni200 wire 3.5mm ID 12-1/2 wraps. Using rayon as the wicking material.
Of course as we all know asking someone which is their favorite RTA or RDA is like asking what's the best AV software... everyone has an opinion.
4. Just about all are building nickel coils to use the TP feature. There are some companies making sub-ohm RTAs with ni200 pre-wound coils
w/Japanese cotton wicking. For the TP feature it seems most that I have read are building coils around .20 - .40 ohms, but everyone has their own
personal "sweet spot" for coils. If you'll be vaping in standard wattage mode, then that's a personal choice. Me? I use in standard wattage mode 1.0
ohm coils running at 22 - 25 watts.
Such as Kanger:
5. It seems as most everyone is using RTAs with this unit although there are quite a few into using their RDAs too.
6. There are several new ones entering the market now that seem promising. If you look at Fasttech and Focalecig they have several
DNA40 style box mods that sell for a very decent price and use the Kangxin chipset.
I hope I was able to help...
I found a website where there is some really good info about coiling nickel for the DNA 40 and respective 'clone' chipsets.
DNA 40 Tips - Rebel Vaper
Here's a sample of the info, this is about prepping the nickel wire:
Check it out.
DNA 40 Tips - Rebel Vaper
Here's a sample of the info, this is about prepping the nickel wire:
Check it out.
Hardening is cool, but I find I get better results just going up a couple gauges and twisting...use twisted 30ga instead of single strand 28ga, for about the same resistance with the same number of wraps, and I find it a lot easier to work with, less fragile, more forgiving. It takes about a minute to twist up about 10 coils worth of 30ga if you have a drill, pair of pliers, and an allen key or even paper clip.
Plus, I just seem to get a better vape quality with twisted coils, especially on higher VG juices (and all my juices are at least 70%, most are max VG/90%).
Plus, I just seem to get a better vape quality with twisted coils, especially on higher VG juices (and all my juices are at least 70%, most are max VG/90%).
I gave that hollow cotton wick a try as soon as I found something big enough to put it in. Taifun "the dripper" on Hcigar DNA 40.
It works well.
I have since retired the above coil due to unsatisfactory performance, may have just been my build.
It works well.
I have since retired the above coil due to unsatisfactory performance, may have just been my build.
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3FVape got back with me, they're letting me upgrade my replacement Kangxin model 1660 to either a 2806 or 2834 Sunlay, (I told them to surprise me on the color). Cost me $2.00. And since I got the 5% introductory discount on my original 1660, I'm only in for a total of $73.24.
Figure what the hell at this point, even if it doesn't work, or work as well as the Kangxin model I'm in the same place I am now, but with two nice housings. But like I said earlier, I'm pretty sure 3FVape told the truth when they said the Kangxin and the Sunlay used the same board. Pretty sure, but not certain.
And folks, please please please, don't take unfair advantage of 3FVape's no-hassle return policy. If it's broke, you should get a new one. But don't claim it's broke, or break it, just to upgrade. That would be a [diminutive name for Richard, rhymes with trick] move.
Figure what the hell at this point, even if it doesn't work, or work as well as the Kangxin model I'm in the same place I am now, but with two nice housings. But like I said earlier, I'm pretty sure 3FVape told the truth when they said the Kangxin and the Sunlay used the same board. Pretty sure, but not certain.
And folks, please please please, don't take unfair advantage of 3FVape's no-hassle return policy. If it's broke, you should get a new one. But don't claim it's broke, or break it, just to upgrade. That would be a [diminutive name for Richard, rhymes with trick] move.
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Disregard if already covered. The Smok Gimlet atty he's using can take a replaceable type 0.4 ohm coil.https://youtu.be/PYtby7YMopI, posted the link purposely, it's the one a few posts back. Is no one going to comment on the resistance of the nickel coiled atomizer that he had, it was something like 0.38Ω? I'm doing good to get one as high as 0.2Ω.
This is with 28 gauge nickel, 2.5 mm id, I can use my imagination and figure around 0.24Ω if I were to use 30 gauge.
Maybe his was 4 mm or something.
Here's the video that you know who asks for and was sent.
It won't let me put it so going with just the link
It won't let me put it so going with just the link
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