Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[Nibiru2012]

I cancelled my order at FC found a dutch website (Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 (Clone) - Elektrische e-sigaret - Rookesigaret.nl) wich offers a VF v3 clone with a build in genuine DNA40 chip from Evolv for € 92,99 and can deliver it tomorrow so i choose for this one.
i will report back when i received it

I went to the website and it does state on the item's specifications: Evolv DNA40 chip

Have you verified this with the website via an email? Just curious since the Evolv chip is not cheap, in US Dollars it retails for $60, now I know that wholesale and volume purchasing reduce the price, but I am wondering why this website is able to sell this unit for such a reasonable price?

I checked for grins to see how much it is shipped to the USA.
They delete the VAT and add shipping which makes it come out to $111.23 US, based on today's Euro to Dollars conversion.

Let us know how this mod performs when you get it.

 

[andreashadji]

Sounds like a good deal to me too so I have sent them an email to clarify if it's actually a genuine chip...
I will let u know if and what they say...


Sent from my kayfun lite + using Tapatalk

 

[damped]

I went to the website and it does state on the item's specifications: Evolv DNA40 chip

Have you verified this with the website via an email? Just curious since the Evolv chip is not cheap, in US Dollars it retails for $60, now I know that wholesale and volume purchasing reduce the price, but I am wondering why this website is able to sell this unit for such a reasonable price?

I checked for grins to see how much it is shipped to the USA.
They delete the VAT and add shipping which makes it come out to $111.23 US, based on today's Euro to Dollars conversion.

Let us know how this mod performs when you get it.

Yes i also had some doubts about it but i ordered before from this website without any complains and some others from a dutch forum have this clone all ready and are satisfied, i will report later because i want to know for myself if the the real evolv dna40 chip is delivered as advertised.
I keep you informed.

 

[sonicbomb]

A small anomaly I've noticed with the Kangxin with a kanthal build. After waking from deep sleep it switches to temp mode for the first 3-4 clicks of the fire button, then reverts back to volts. "Software features" I can live with, I just hope it stays alive

 

[Tpat591]

Waiting with baited breath for some feedback on what is causing these to lose power. From what Blueridgedog says, it sound like a loose soldier joint might be responsible. Hoping they will all end up being this same annoying, but repairable issue & not a more severe fault.

 

[dwcraig1]

I don't think I can take the suspense any longer, I want to know if it's the board or not so I can order an Evolv board as soon as possible.
I'm in, so far there is battery power to the board. Going after the glob of hot glue on the fire button now.
I can hardly believe it, I got the giant blob of hot glue out of this end. Now it's time to check the fire button. This is as far as I'm going to go without having a replacement board here.

Oh well the fire switch is good, think I'll just go ahead and pull the board now too.
Either the hot glue they used is pretty crappy or alcohol works really good, I'm going to say the glue is cheap.
The board is a RAYN v3
The pin out is the same as Evolv Dna 40 with an added connection from the usb port (1.5 v) next to #1 pad.
The fire, up and down buttons are present but the top half of the fire button is missing.
I'll get some pics of the board up in a few.

No worry about the usb port falling in like the up/down buttons, held in with a screw.
Up/down/fire buttons are held in place with epoxy.
I had to cut the three wires from the usb to get the board out.
No time now to rest it, time to go to work.
USB wiring: Red 4.2volts positive
Green negative
White 1.5 volts positive, I have no idea it's purpose.

 

[Tpat591]

Is that power to the USB Board or Power to the Chip itself from the USB Board?

 

[dwcraig1]

Is that power to the USB Board or Power to the Chip itself?

Here is your answer...power is supplied to the balance board from the batteies, the charging board connects to the main board.

 

[Nibiru2012]

Is that a threaded copper bushing holding the 510 connection on? Would it be feasible to be replaced if the 510 center pin goes bad?

Did you use a 1.3mm hex key to loosen the top plate screws?

 

[dwcraig1]

Is that a threaded copper bushing holding the 510 connection on? Would it be feasible to be replaced if the 510 center pin goes bad?

Did you use a 1.3mm hex key to loosen the top plate screws?

It looks to me to be the outside wall of the 510 socket
Hex key, 1.25 mm or .050, one of those.

 

[dwcraig1]

Is that power to the USB Board or Power to the Chip itself from the USB Board?

I believe the battery wire connect to the charger board for ease of assembly like a terminal block more than for any other reason.
Nah, looks more like a balanced charging board but for parallel, I don't get it.

 

[dwcraig1]

So I have not had much time to study the wiring real good but it looks to have the charging board with usb attached and the board that the battery positives attach to is a balance board. I'll test the connection to the board in the morning.

 

[dwcraig1]

If I don't find something wrong with the connections/wiring I think I'll pull the DNA40 board out of a Cana mod that I have and never use rather than order a new board.
Got word from the vendor that they are contacting the manufacturer and will get back to me...I hope they don't want any more pictures. LOL
I guess there will be no charging indicator if I put in an Evolv board, I can live with that.

 

[AnsonJames]

If I don't find something wrong with the connections/wiring I think I'll pull the DNA40 board out of a Cana mod that I have and never use rather than order a new board.
Got word from the vendor that they are contacting the manufacturer and will get back to me...I hope they don't want any more pictures. LOL
I guess there will be no charging indicator if I put in an Evolv board, I can live with that.

Hopefully the Flask I receive will work properly but I'm still preparing for the worst and getting a Evolv board.
Can you tell me where the board on your version is ground to the body?

 

[dwcraig1]

Hopefully the Flask I receive will work properly but I'm still preparing for the worst and getting a Evolv board.
Can you tell me where the board on your version is ground to the body?

There is a screw under the blob of glue securing eyelet of ground wire (red arrow)

 

[dwcraig1]

It should be a piece of cake for me to put in my "salvaged" Evolv board, going to solder/splice/heat shrink all wires.
I got to pick up some fast set epoxy this morning on the way home from work.

 

[dwcraig1]

I wanted vapor, I got smoke. Now I need to buy 2 boards, one to replace the one I took out of my Cana and one for my Flask. I had it working just fine till I put it the whole way together. Had things a bit to tight in there I guess.Total failure x 2
I contribute my failure to deciding to splice all the wires using solder and shrink tubing, that really made thing tight.I'll try again with a new board.

 

[WeirdWillie]

Just for the record and fyi
The center pin threaded ferrule will unscrew from the back side of the 510.
What it threads into is just a pressed in delrin insert.
The 510 negative is soldered to the head of what looked like a tiny brass screw
That is just screwed into a flat spot on the 510 body.

 

[WeirdWillie]

After you get the 510 positive and negative removed the 510 body is just press fitted in.
For the record the fat daddy v4 and v4 low profile are too long and will bottom out onto top of the battery connection
I'm going to have a fatdaddy v3 shorty 22mm ring turned down to fit the top cap and see if that will work.

In the meantime I just put the copper/brass back in.

 

[squag]

Just for the record and fyi
The center pin threaded ferrule will unscrew from the back side of the 510.
What it threads into is just a pressed in delrin insert. .

I was changing atomizers and the one I was putting on had a shorter 510 pin so I got the expected "check atomizer", cranked the mods 510 out half a turn and never even lit the display after that.

Hey dwcraig1,

Sorry to hear of all the troubles, but I appreciate the updates. Please keep em coming.

I'm not sure I completely understand how the 510 is constructed on the VF clone, but I'm curious if you may have unthreaded something on the bottom side and shorted the 510 positive to the battery pin. You used the word "crank" when you adjusted the 510. Was there resistance to turning the adjustment screw? Mine spins freely, too easily in my opinion.