Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[WeirdWillie]

I was talking about completely removing the 510 to replace it with a spring loaded 510
I was describing the process and how its constructed.
Which appears to be milled from a solid copper chunk, with the center pin ferrule (threaded nut part) is just screwed into a pressed in delrin insulator
Into the bottom of the 510 body.
The 510 body is just press fitted into the top cover.
Oh and you are going to need a 140watt or better soldering iron to melt whatever solder they used
I had to break out the old 200w weller gun type iron.

 

[dwcraig1]

Hey dwcraig1,

Sorry to hear of all the troubles, but I appreciate the updates. Please keep em coming.

I'm not sure I completely understand how the 510 is constructed on the VF clone, but I'm curious if you may have unthreaded something on the bottom side and shorted the 510 positive to the battery pin. You used the word "crank" when you adjusted the 510. Was there resistance to turning the adjustment screw? Mine spins freely, too easily in my opinion.

I just turned it half a turn out is all, it offered no resistance.

Today though I did have a short. one of the solder joints on the down button poked into another wire because I had way too much wire tucked in up there.

 

[damped]

I went to the website and it does state on the item's specifications: Evolv DNA40 chip

Have you verified this with the website via an email? Just curious since the Evolv chip is not cheap, in US Dollars it retails for $60, now I know that wholesale and volume purchasing reduce the price, but I am wondering why this website is able to sell this unit for such a reasonable price?

I checked for grins to see how much it is shipped to the USA.
They delete the VAT and add shipping which makes it come out to $111.23 US, based on today's Euro to Dollars conversion.

Let us know how this mod performs when you get it.

Flask is delivered today and it's not with a real Evolv DNA40, I think it's the waidea version with SS510 fixed pin and brass caps. Finish is very good, Kangxin uses screws on the inside pluspools for the batteries but here are clamps fitted which gives pressure and handle the different lenghts of batteries,works good. On the outside there is no paint (i think) but is brushed aluminium, very nice.
I only used it now in normal mode, that part looks ok monday i get some ni200 so i can try the TC mode.

I paid 93 euro for it assuming there was a Evolv DNA40 in it but it's not so i can return it to the shop but.... I have it now so no long waiting from our chinese friends for delivering "if they have at stock" and if something goes wrong this shop is close.
So i think i keep this one although i paid 23 euro more but the service is it worth.
But monday i decide when playing with this mod in TC mode also can satisfy me.

btw the VF is out of stock now also i send a email to the shop for a explanation mentioning the Evolv DNA40 on the specs.

 

[lenon]

Hello guys, I've been lurking here for years, and I wanted to give you guys some info. I threw myself on the grenade, and bought a Kangxin flask at a local B&M and ordered a Waidea flask from 3F.

I had the Kangxin model for several days, and I liked it a lot, and then I got this Waidea model. I've only had it a few hours, but I have to say, the Waidea flask seems to be superior in *every* way. The finish on it is much better, and buttons feel more solid, and the vape quality is the same, if not a little better.

To me, it appears to be the same chip at first glance, but I don't think it is. On the Waidea, it does not say KX-40D when it starts up, it says Evolv DNA 40. I know that's no indicator of anything, I'm just listing it as a difference. Everything else on the display is identical, except for one thing. When I plug the Kangxin flask in, the battery indicator shows charging. On the Waidea flask, there is no indication of charging on the display. Again, this isn't proof positive, but here's the kicker:

I rebuild my Atlantis heads with 11 wrap, 28g, horizontal nickel coils. On the Kangxin flask, with the temp set to 480, it hits TP almost immediately, and drops to between 18 and 22 watts. On the Waidea, the exact same coil, after resting, slowly builds to 480 degrees, and then feeds it at 32-38 watts. The behavior of the Waidea flask is almost identical to my Vaporshark rDNA.

The battery tubes are tighter on the Waidea model. I'm not sure I can get the batteries out without damaging them. That being said, the battery caps actually screw down flush. On the Kangxin flask I couldn't get that to happen. I screwed the screws at the top of the battery tubes down as far as I felt comfortable, and still had a significant lip. The Waidea flask has little clips at the top of the tubes to accommodate different battery lengths without adjustment.

I have a friend who has the Kangxin model, and he's had it about a week, and the finish is already wearing off. I'm pretty sure this Waidea model is anodized, and while it will scratch, it probably won't wear.

One last thing, on the Kanxin flask I had, there was some really wonky behavior when holding the up and down buttons at the same time when the device is not locked. As you probably know, this should lock the power. However, if I didn't hit the buttons at EXACTLY the same time, sometimes the screen would just turn off. Other times, it would actually say "bye-bye!" and then turn off.

However, both devices will round robin on the wattage setting in both directions, which the authentic will not do. Neither device has Celcius mode though.

That's about all I've got, but I'll be happy to answer any questions you guys have! Happy vaping!

 

[Tpat591]

Hello guys, I've been lurking here for years, and I wanted to give you guys some info. I threw myself on the grenade, and bought a Kangxin flask at a local B&M and ordered a Waidea flask from 3F.

I had the Kangxin model for several days, and I liked it a lot, and then I got this Waidea model. I've only had it a few hours, but I have to say, the Waidea flask seems to be superior in *every* way. The finish on it is much better, and buttons feel more solid, and the vape quality is the same, if not a little better.

To me, it appears to be the same chip at first glance, but I don't think it is. On the Waidea, it does not say KX-40D when it starts up, it says Evolv DNA 40. I know that's no indicator of anything, I'm just listing it as a difference. Everything else on the display is identical, except for one thing. When I plug the Kangxin flask in, the battery indicator shows charging. On the Waidea flask, there is no indication of charging on the display. Again, this isn't proof positive, but here's the kicker:

I rebuild my Atlantis heads with 11 wrap, 28g, horizontal nickel coils. On the Kangxin flask, with the temp set to 480, it hits TP almost immediately, and drops to between 18 and 22 watts. On the Waidea, the exact same coil, after resting, slowly builds to 480 degrees, and then feeds it at 32-38 watts. The behavior of the Waidea flask is almost identical to my Vaporshark rDNA.

The battery tubes are tighter on the Waidea model. I'm not sure I can get the batteries out without damaging them. That being said, the battery caps actually screw down flush. On the Kangxin flask I couldn't get that to happen. I screwed the screws at the top of the battery tubes down as far as I felt comfortable, and still had a significant lip. The Waidea flask has little clips at the top of the tubes to accommodate different battery lengths without adjustment.

I have a friend who has the Kangxin model, and he's had it about a week, and the finish is already wearing off. I'm pretty sure this Waidea model is anodized, and while it will scratch, it probably won't wear.

One last thing, on the Kanxin flask I had, there was some really wonky behavior when holding the up and down buttons at the same time when the device is not locked. As you probably know, this should lock the power. However, if I didn't hit the buttons at EXACTLY the same time, sometimes the screen would just turn off. Other times, it would actually say "bye-bye!" and then turn off.

However, both devices will round robin on the wattage setting in both directions, which the authentic will not do. Neither device has Celcius mode though.

That's about all I've got, but I'll be happy to answer any questions you guys have! Happy vaping!

So we finally have someone capable of providing exact observations of the differences between the Kangxin and Waidea chips behavior who is apparently saying there are significant performace differences between the chips and I cannot thank you enough for coming forward with your observations to help the rest of us understand the differences in the units. I was expecting to hear from Nicole by now, as she has confirmed she should be receiving hers this week.

You say the Waidea unit acts just like your Vaporshark rDNA 40. Is that an origional rDNA 40 or is it one of the new clones that are just hitting our streets? I know Waidea claims credit for that rDNA 40 clone as well so if it is a clone that would certainly explain the similarities. Do you have any observations on wake to fire delays, is there a two stage sleep like the kangxin & have you been able to determine what the timing is between stage 1 sleep and stage 2. Sounds like there is a much less aggressive pre-heat on the Waidea than the Kangxin. Can you elaborate on that & try to quantify as you become more familiar with the units behavior?

We all look forward to your sharing of your continued observations, reports, pics & thoughts.

 

[lenon]

It's an authentic. The major difference between the two appears to be either a slight firing delay (.25 to .5 seconds) on the Waidea, or a lack of preheat. I'm not sure which. Either way, it doesn't really bother me.

And you're very welcome. Let me know if there's anything I can do for ya!

Edit: Btw, both chips passed the dry burn test for me.

 

[Tpat591]

It's an authentic. The major difference between the two appears to be either a slight firing delay (.25 to .5 seconds) on the Waidea, or a lack of preheat. I'm not sure which. Either way, it doesn't really bother me.

And you're very welcome. Let me know if there's anything I can do for ya!

Keep sharing your thoughts and feedback with the community!

 

[Tpat591]

I wanted vapor, I got smoke. Now I need to buy 2 boards, one to replace the one I took out of my Cana and one for my Flask. I had it working just fine till I put it the whole way together. Had things a bit to tight in there I guess.Total failure x 2
I contribute my failure to deciding to splice all the wires using solder and shrink tubing, that really made thing tight.I'll try again with a new board.

So close! So sorry to hear of the unfortunate development. Thanks for sharing your efforts! Any way you can mix & match parts from both to get something firing?

 

[Croak]

So we finally have someone capable of providing exact observations of the differences between the Kangxin and Waidea chips behavior who is apparently saying there are significant performace differences between the chips and I cannot thank you enough for coming forward with your observations to help the rest of us understand the differences in the units. I was expecting to hear from Nicole by now, as she has confirmed she should be receiving hers this week.

You say the Waidea unit acts just like your Vaporshark rDNA 40. Is that an origional rDNA 40 or is it one of the new clones that are just hitting our streets? I know Waidea claims credit for that rDNA 40 clone as well so if it is a clone that would certainly explain the similarities. Do you have any observations on wake to fire delays, is there a two stage sleep like the kangxin & have you been able to determine what the timing is between stage 1 sleep and stage 2. Sounds like there is a much less aggressive pre-heat on the Waidea than the Kangxin. Can you elaborate on that & try to quantify as you become more familiar with the units behavior?

We all look forward to your sharing of your continued observations, reports, pics & thoughts.

Besides the customized wake message, it could just be a variance in board revisions from Kangxin or whoever.

 

[dwcraig1]

So close! So sorry to hear of the unfortunate development. Thanks for sharing your efforts! Any way you can mix & match parts from both to get something firing?

I will order a new board from Evolv and start over.

Edit: Board is ordered.

 

[Tpat591]

Besides the customized wake message, it could just be a variance in board revisions from Kangxin or whoever.

Agreed, it may be, but only by comparing notes & sharing information can we determine that. It may be an earlier version before Kangxin made their firmware improvements or perhaps it was developed independantly. Less aggressive preheat or a .25-0.5 second extra delay to fire does not seem to indicate a later firmware revision but does jibe with delays described to me by Sunlay Representatives almost two & a half months ago. They also described a three second wake from deep sleep. This was described to me me well over a month before they were actually advertised on the 3FVape website.

 

[lenon]

Agreed, it may be, but only by comparing notes & sharing information can we determine that. It may be an earlier version before Kangxin made their firmware improvements or perhaps it was developed independantly. Less aggressive preheat or a .25-0.5 second extra delay to fire does not seem to indicate a later firmware revision but does jibe with delays described to me by Sunlay Representatives almost two & a half months ago. They also described a three second wake from deep sleep. This was described to me me well over a month before they were actually advertised on the 3FVape website.

It doesn't seem to matter whether it's in deep sleep, regular sleep, or no sleep. As far as I can tell, it always hits the same.

Did I mention I love this Waidea flask?

 

[Croak]

That very short firing delay (even when fully awake) was present on my Kangxin flask as well (you can see it in the video I posted a few weeks back, and it's so minor I didn't pick up on it until it was pointed out to me).

I suspect it is a code artifact from the reverse engineering present in all these Chinese boards (just as I suspect the reversed engineered code base and component list for all these boards came from one place initially, Kangxin was just the first to get them out to market).

Anyway, that delay period is right when a real Evolv board would be doing a pre-heat (or at least a more aggressive pre-heat), the ChiNA40s don't seem to have this figured out, but they didn't cut the slight delay before going into regular fire mode.

That sort of thing happens when you copy compiled (and likely encrypted) code from a chip but don't have the original, commented source code. There's probably a whole lot going on inside the ChiNA40s that the Chinese don't fully understand (yet), so they're going to take an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" attitude.

 

[lenon]

That makes a lot of sense, Croak. And I agree, it's the same on both Flask models.

 

[dwcraig1]

Are the holes for the up/down buttons 13/64" or are they larger?Anyone know the size hole?

 

[lenon]

I don't know how I would measure those to a 64th of inch tolerance without take the buttons out. :/

 

[AnsonJames]

Hello guys, I've been lurking here for years, and I wanted to give you guys some info. I threw myself on the grenade, and bought a Kangxin flask at a local B&M and ordered a Waidea flask from 3F.

I had the Kangxin model for several days, and I liked it a lot, and then I got this Waidea model. I've only had it a few hours, but I have to say, the Waidea flask seems to be superior in *every* way. The finish on it is much better, and buttons feel more solid, and the vape quality is the same, if not a little better.

To me, it appears to be the same chip at first glance, but I don't think it is. On the Waidea, it does not say KX-40D when it starts up, it says Evolv DNA 40. I know that's no indicator of anything, I'm just listing it as a difference. Everything else on the display is identical, except for one thing. When I plug the Kangxin flask in, the battery indicator shows charging. On the Waidea flask, there is no indication of charging on the display. Again, this isn't proof positive, but here's the kicker:

I rebuild my Atlantis heads with 11 wrap, 28g, horizontal nickel coils. On the Kangxin flask, with the temp set to 480, it hits TP almost immediately, and drops to between 18 and 22 watts. On the Waidea, the exact same coil, after resting, slowly builds to 480 degrees, and then feeds it at 32-38 watts. The behavior of the Waidea flask is almost identical to my Vaporshark rDNA.

The battery tubes are tighter on the Waidea model. I'm not sure I can get the batteries out without damaging them. That being said, the battery caps actually screw down flush. On the Kangxin flask I couldn't get that to happen. I screwed the screws at the top of the battery tubes down as far as I felt comfortable, and still had a significant lip. The Waidea flask has little clips at the top of the tubes to accommodate different battery lengths without adjustment.

I have a friend who has the Kangxin model, and he's had it about a week, and the finish is already wearing off. I'm pretty sure this Waidea model is anodized, and while it will scratch, it probably won't wear.

One last thing, on the Kanxin flask I had, there was some really wonky behavior when holding the up and down buttons at the same time when the device is not locked. As you probably know, this should lock the power. However, if I didn't hit the buttons at EXACTLY the same time, sometimes the screen would just turn off. Other times, it would actually say "bye-bye!" and then turn off.

However, both devices will round robin on the wattage setting in both directions, which the authentic will not do. Neither device has Celcius mode though.

That's about all I've got, but I'll be happy to answer any questions you guys have! Happy vaping!

Got any photos for the folks waiting on one of these?
Really looking forward to getting mine, checking tracking data every 10 minutes...

 

[dwcraig1]

I don't know how I would measure those to a 64th of inch tolerance without take the buttons out. :/

When I get home from work I'll measure them, thinking about getting a couple more.

 

[fredrikstad]

Yep... saw where you posted a while back that the TC worked..... am interested in sonicbomb's experience after using TC on this counterfeit device.,

Why do you Call it a counterfeit? It`s not. It is a clone, prised as a clone, not priced like a genuine, and therefor not a counterfeit. And yes, it Works just as good as the evolv made tp Board.

 

[dwcraig1]

Why do you Call it a counterfeit? It`s not. It is a clone, prised as a clone, not priced like a genuine, and therefor not a counterfeit. And yes, it Works just as good as the evolv made tp Board.

Because it says "Vapor Flask" on it.