Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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I too am interested in something like this but it totally eludes me as to how you would go about filling the bottle.
This I found quite interesting and it's not about the clone. One of the things I was most interested in was the fact that the original doesn't use the extra board to connect the batteries. I may go that route on mine when I re do it, that will free up quite a bit of space.
@ 28 minutes
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They should build a place called 'USA' in Shenzhen, they'd look a little less dishonest - not much though.
This Sunlay version does appear to be a 1/1 bar the fixed atty connection, it will make buying a Vapor Flask from ebay a very risky prospect.
So I think I'm going to source another 96x16 0.69" OLED display with ribbon cable and stand my Kangxin flask back up again with the KX-40D.
Turns out its a lot easier to re-attach those soldered ribbon cables than I thought. Fiddly, but easy.
Bonus, it'd be a lot cheaper than sticking a real Evolv board back in there, under $10 for the same display an Evolv board uses, probably under $5 if I want to get something out of Shenzhen like what came with the board. Heck, might get fancy and go with a white display instead of blue.
Turns out its a lot easier to re-attach those soldered ribbon cables than I thought. Fiddly, but easy.
Bonus, it'd be a lot cheaper than sticking a real Evolv board back in there, under $10 for the same display an Evolv board uses, probably under $5 if I want to get something out of Shenzhen like what came with the board. Heck, might get fancy and go with a white display instead of blue.
Heard back from Nicole & she has received the Waidea Unit & shared some preliminary thoughts & observations. She will hopefully post them here shortly but it sounds like a 1 second delay from sleep to fire.
Especially since the box looks exactly the same, it comes with the exact same (as looks go) USB cable, and they even cloned the piece of paper that comes with it. it's word for word the same as the original.
Just tested that myself, and I suppose that's about accurate, It seems like the delay is a little longer from sleep than otherwise. I hadn't noticed until I actively looked for it.
If nothing else, I attributed it the coil being cold and just taking a little longer to actually start vaporizing liquid.
If you can get the old connectors out then you can throw in one of these;
http://fatdaddyvapes.com/eBay/Photos/510SWATCH.jpg
Or these;
510 Connector - Self-adjusting Center Pin - 14mm, 22mm, 28.5mm, Smooth Top 22mm
Should be pretty easy.
The Varitube 14mm Low Profile won't fit without a fair amount of work. It's too small in diameter for the diameter of the hole in the Kangxin top plate and it's borderline too long, risks impacting the positive lead for the battery right underneath it and finally, since it's low profile, it's about half as thick as it needs to be to sit flush, ideally you'd need to use a 1mm thick washer with a 10mm ID underneath it (on the outside, not inside the mod) to raise it up higher (which might give you about 1mm more battery clearance).
Also keep in mind that the hole cut in the top plate is not round, it's flat on one side as an index for the flat side of the original 510 connector, you'll need to do a little trimming to make it round-ish again, no matter what 510 you go with.
The Fat Daddy V3 Shorty 15.5mm is about the only one that will fit and should also barely clear the battery terminals. The big thing is it's larger in diameter which should make for an overall better fit, and the 2mm thickness of the juice well/top plate is the same as the Kangxin, so it will fit flush. Plus, it was what Vaporflask used on the real V1 and V2 models.
Also keep in mind that the hole cut in the top plate is not round, it's flat on one side as an index for the flat side of the original 510 connector, you'll need to do a little trimming to make it round-ish again, no matter what 510 you go with.
The Fat Daddy V3 Shorty 15.5mm is about the only one that will fit and should also barely clear the battery terminals. The big thing is it's larger in diameter which should make for an overall better fit, and the 2mm thickness of the juice well/top plate is the same as the Kangxin, so it will fit flush. Plus, it was what Vaporflask used on the real V1 and V2 models.
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So a quick update on my Kangxin V3. Haven't had too much time since I got it sadly but did manage to throw a build in a Magma clone and try out the TC. For me, at the moment, it works perfectly as far as I can see. Its 12 spaced wraps of 0.3mm Ni200 around 3.5mm mandrel for 0.2 ohms. Reads 0.2 ohms on the flask and after 24 hours she still reads 0.2 ohms. Firing at 450°F and 17.5w. Haven't fiddled too much with that yet. No flashing TP so far. Cotton burn test was fine. Now I just have to be very careful with it and hope the damn thing doesn't fall apart!
a tad OT but is there any feedback on the F3vape VS clone?? Seems to be all quiet on that one..
From my experience dissembling and testing the fatdaddy v3 short might work but it's going to be extremely close especially after soldering the positive wire.
Also the fatdaddy is about 1mm tot 1.5mm in diameter smaller than the copper kangxin.
I've been toying with having a fatdaddy 22mn ring milled down to fit the juice well, but still considered with the clearance to the battery.
Certainly not a DNA40 board lol! These things are proliferating at an alarming rate!
Its not a TC device! Look at the voltage output for a start - 4-11v. No step-down. Wont work. No mention of TC anyway.
Angelfiremods in UK had some of these I think and I pointed this out to them. They replied that it was a typo but I don't think so. They are now selling them with authentic DNA40 boards that they have put in I think...
Got my ni200 today but they send me kanthal so i have to wait again for the ni200 
One thing I notice with the Waidea VF, when I press the fire button there is a very short delay (like you said) but after the short delay when the screen lights up the screen blinks 2 times very fast, after those 2 blinks and still pressing the fire button the screen stays normal.
Anyone seen this before? maybe @lenon? little bit annoying that blinking.
One thing I notice with the Waidea VF, when I press the fire button there is a very short delay (like you said) but after the short delay when the screen lights up the screen blinks 2 times very fast, after those 2 blinks and still pressing the fire button the screen stays normal.
Anyone seen this before? maybe @lenon? little bit annoying that blinking.
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