I've had mine for a few weeks, nar-a-scratch on mine, even after completely rebuilding it with an authentic board and Fatdaddy v3, and carrying it around in my front pocket everywhere I go.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Flat Countersunk screws m2x8mm rvs that's what I bought, you can choose which you prefer Trx, Hex or cross.
You know the finish is why I wanted this one (waidea) over the one I already had with the coating on it... but as soon as I got it, the first thing I said to myself - I said SELF: this is going to scratch easily. 
Maybe a typo, RVS or RCS? raised countersunk?
RVS yes that's what I meant but maybe RCS is also possible, i liked the flat ones more.
does this look correct for screws? They are SS not zinc, i figured zinc would be soft.
http://www.metricscrews.us/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_5_30&products_id=53
I looked again at the description of mine and it also mentioned DIN965 as a standard so I don't see that on the site you linked, probably they will fit but better search for ones with the DIN965 included.
Fire delay proved too annoying for me in the long run. Ordered a small screen DNA40 (and dna25 just in case) from a co-op here today. It'll be a while, but eventually I'll get this mod working how I want it.
Figure I might as well get a FDv3 while I'm at it, and new screws.
@Vassago01 I'll be interested to see what you order and how they work out.
Figure I might as well get a FDv3 while I'm at it, and new screws.
@Vassago01 I'll be interested to see what you order and how they work out.
I did the same, I ordered a bunch of DNA40's... most of them already have enclosures waiting. I have no idea what to do with the large screen versions yet, but I'm sure I'll figure something out - and I got plenty of time to do so.
I have no idea what to do with the large screen versions yet, but I'm sure I'll figure something out - and I got plenty of time to do so.Actually these are the 316 SS, which I believe is stronger.
Machine Screws: 9080034491 M3 X 8MM DIN 965 FLAT PHILPS A4 - 316 Stainless
Machine Screws: 9080034491 M3 X 8MM DIN 965 FLAT PHILPS A4 - 316 Stainless
Sorry for all the links but this the size...
Machine Screws: 9080034433 M2 X 8MM DIN 965 FLAT PHILPS A2 - 304 Stainless
Machine Screws: 9080034433 M2 X 8MM DIN 965 FLAT PHILPS A2 - 304 Stainless
I'm sorry, I'm slightly confused with all the links and screw designations... which are the correct screws for the top plate on the waidea flask? and is that for the phillips head (+) or hex/torx head ?
Or what is the thread designation?
Or what is the thread designation?
I believe this is the correct based on the above post where the user swapped out for new screws. This is what I found they are 304SS and Phillips head. Only down side is this site only sells in bulk 100 pieces... so if you get them I am sure you could resell them on here to other users LOL. I am going to try and find a place to buy in smaller quantities.
Machine Screws: 9080034433 M2 X 8MM DIN 965 FLAT PHILPS A2 - 304 Stainless
I've had pretty good luck finding screws like these at ACE HARDWARE (depending where you are). Not the hardware superstores like Home Depot and Lowes... the smaller hardware stores stock (some anyway) hard to find specialty screws.... up side, get it instantly... down side, probably going to pay the same amount (about $1/ea) for 4 as you would 100pcs. LOL
Hey guys and gals. I'm new to the whole vapor flask wagon but does anyone know what the best version of this mod (in the ($70 range) is currently?
The consensus is the Waidea made flask available from Focalecig.com for about $65. It seems to be as close to 1:1 clone as your going to find, fairly well made with a few caveats which are listed in the thread, many in great detail in the last 10 to 20 pages (or so). The vast majority of owners of this flask are quite happy with it right out of the box, build quality, performance, etc.
Again there are some issues which for the most part are very correctable by the user, assuming your not afraid of opening the flask to perform the upgrades and or corrections... many people have had little to no problems sliding batteries in the unit and vaping it happily ever after.
Again there are some issues which for the most part are very correctable by the user, assuming your not afraid of opening the flask to perform the upgrades and or corrections... many people have had little to no problems sliding batteries in the unit and vaping it happily ever after.
Awesome, I'll check out those pages! What's the consensus on the Kangxin version? I've heard a few good things about them. By the way, is temperature control esentially useless using standard kanthal (A1)?
AS I UNDERSTAND IT: Temp control works with Nickel and/or Titanium wire. It has to do with the way the resistance changes predictably at certain temperatures... that's the "concept" of how temp control works. Now I have seen videos where people are wrapping NI200 and Kanthal (twisting is more like it) and because electricity flows through the path of least resistance, in this case being the Nickel NI200, they've had success with NI200 & Kanthal twisted coils. I have not tried temp control yet, I'm still waiting for my nickel wire to arrive, so I can't advise much. But what I can say for sure is temp control does NOT work with Kanthal alone - at least not in its current implementation on temp control devices.
There is a sub forum here call TEMP CONTROL (somewhere), you'd get much more answers quicker in that sub forum.
There is a sub forum here call TEMP CONTROL (somewhere), you'd get much more answers quicker in that sub forum.
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