Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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Tpat591

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Not saying titanium is perfect, but at least you can safely EAT titanium (it's in many of our foods), nickel is just bad all around - another advantage is that the heavier gauge size of titanium makes rewicking much more feasible - nickel just tears up.
Not arguing with you but there is risk in anything you do. Just want to make sure you are aware of the specific risks before hand.
 
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Tpat591

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Phone Guy

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You said yourself that the Waidea works pretty good, unless it fails, I wouldn't replace the ChiNA40.

I also like the existing 510s looks. What is maddening is that they tapped the bottom of the 510 barrel out to M8. Had they just left the M7x.05mm all the way through you could just screw a FD V3 Shorty core into it to have a floating pin. I've got a 510 Tap on order & when it arrives in June, I'm gonna retap the original back to a 510 thread & get that FD V3 Shorty core in there.
I thought the fdv v3 shorty DID fit right in the existing 510 connector? I thought it was only the v3 shorty that did?
 

Tpat591

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I thought the fdv v3 shorty DID fit right in the existing 510 connector? I thought it was only the v3 shorty that did?
The FD V3 Shorty 510 is the only 510 connector Version (besides the Varitube shorty) that will replace the existing 510 in its entirety. It works & I have one working on my Black Waidea right now with no problems what so ever. Very stable connectivity & works great!

I just like the Single slotted look of the Original 510 and want to install just the FD V3 Shorty Center Pin Core from a FD V3 Shorty into the existing 510. I need to make a Bushing I cannot find to buy to mount it in there. I've made a bushing by heating up the 510 and threading the outer plastic of a papermate disposable pen into the lower threading of the original 510 & cutting it off to the height of a FD V3 Shorty 510. I need to thread the inside of the tube to a 510 thread to mount the core in there & I have a 510 Tap & Die Set on order from Amazon to thread the inside of the Bushing but it will not arrive until June as it is also coming from China. (Don't want to heat up the base of one of my attys to thread the inside of the tube) When it is completed I will reinstall it in place of the FD V3 Shorty 510 assembly I installed there.

If that fails the Insulator of the original 510 can be drilled and Tapped for the v3 shorty core. If that fails, there is always JB Weld.

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dwcraig1

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Crap! Now I've got another KFV4 coming & I've never even coiled up the one I've had for a month! Shinyitis is a true affliction well beyond my control.
Hey I have four I haven't used in months, now I have 2 more coming.
 

Tpat591

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I'm thinking of a getting a Waidea to back up my Kangxin.
Would it be possible for people to sound off which attys they were unable to use (if any) with it, due to the non-adjustable 510 please?
I have heard of some complaining about certain KF V4 clones that have a shorter 510 post not working on it but so far that is only one I am aware of.
 

ThunderDan

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I have heard of some complaining about certain KF V4 clones that have a shorter 510 post not working on it but so far that is only one I am aware of.

That would be pretty easy to fix on a KF4 though. They could just take it apart, and file down #3 a bit, then reassemble and it should expose the 510 contact screw a bit, and make a stable connection.
 

Angel Eyes

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I'm thinking of a getting a Waidea to back up my Kangxin.
Would it be possible for people to sound off which attys they were unable to use (if any) with it, due to the non-adjustable 510 please?
well I am using the original Kanger Subtank and it works fantastically well with my silver Waidea - very happy with both!
 

Angel Eyes

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A 20 amp switch is going to take up quite a bit of real estate.
you should probably have your coffee before doing any electrical engineering, silly! - a tiny microswitch will be just fine as a "hard reset" switch, as all we are trying to do is to break the battery connection momentarily to simulate taking the batteries out (or at least loosening the caps) in order to reset the CPU. This does not happen during firing, where you might need 20 amps, but rather, it happens when the unit is at rest and is only pulling a few milliamps at most. (CPU + display)
 

Tpat591

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you should probably have your coffee before doing any electrical engineering, silly! - a tiny microswitch will be just fine as a "hard reset" switch, as all we are trying to do is to break the battery connection momentarily to simulate taking the batteries out (or at least loosening the caps) in order to reset the CPU. This does not happen during firing, where you might need 20 amps, but rather, it happens when the unit is at rest and is only pulling a few milliamps at most. (CPU + display)

1) your reasons for wanting to do it no longer apply since you have presumably already established a proper ground.
2) installing it in this unit without affecting other components would be difficult.
3) to disconnect batteries from board to deprive power your circuit would still need to have the capacity to allow maximum use amperage to the board while firing or it would overload.
4) perhaps it is time for another cup?
 
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