Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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TheBloke

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I would say Mr Given is a salesman and not a technician.

Yeah absolutely. My question would be did he check with anyone technical - perhaps not. But he still chose to answer using a technical term - coefficient. But it's very hard to know what that means, given the large language barrier. He probably just copied it out of my email because I said it. It probably doesn't tell us anything, but at least it wasn't a definite no.

Using Titanium on a DNA40 or Rayn board is not a big thing, because the temperature coefficient is not too different. It´s just a different temperature setting to keep it away from dry hits. But I don`t like and trust Titanium.

I've not started using Ti yet but yeah I understand it's easy enough with an 80-90° offset. But 'easy enough' doesn't mean I wouldn't wish it to be perfect :)

I´ve tried a different wire, that has a lower temperature coefficient, SS, which is very easy to build. Making a cotton test on an DNA40 or China40 will burn the cotton, but using it in regular usage I got no dry hits and you can see how the TC works. I don`t know why but it work better with thicker wires, with thiner wires i got dry hits. Instead of a fixed parameter for the temperature coefficient in the DNA40 and Yihi chipsets, an adjustable parameter ( Ni Purity ) could help to make SS setups better.

Oh that's really interesting, I already have two rolls of SS317L wire. I bought them because people were talking about its benefits over Kanthal, but I've still not actually tried it. I didn't realise it might also work (somewhat) with TC. Well then I'll definitely be trying that on the new flask as well, then.

I just did some searching and the only clear figure I could find for Stainless Steel was for 304 grade, which is 0.00094. I don't know if 317L might differ and, if so, in which direction.

A figure of 0.00094 makes it 6.3 times lower than (pure) Nickel, suggesting that a Nickel Purity value around 14 might theoretically work - with the usual caveats/assumptions: that 100 = 0.006; that there's no other factors involved; and of course that Nickel Purity even does modify the expected coefficient.

But with these very low coefficients, I think the main question becomes can the chip and mod be granular and accurate enough in its resistance reading to be workable?
  • A Nickel coil that starts at 0.1Ω and 20°C and then increases to 232°C (about 450°F) will increase in resistance to 0.2272Ω.
    • That's an increase of 0.1272Ω from a 212° temperature rise.
    • Which is 0.0006Ω per °C - (which is coefficient value / 10 for reasons I can't quite understand..)
  • A SS coil that starts at 0.1Ω and 20°C and then increases to 232°C will jump in resistance to 0.119928Ω
    • An increase of only 0.019928Ω
    • Which is 0.000094 per °C (again, coefficient / 10)
  • In the SS case, the difference between:
    • 300°F and 450°F (83°C) is a difference in resistance of 0.0078Ω
    • 400°F and 450°F (28°C) is a difference in resistance of 0.0026Ω
Assuming I've done all this correctly - see disclaimer at bottom - it seems that for it to work accurately, the mod needs to measure the resistance of the coil to at least three decimal places, and each +/- 0.001 margin of error is a difference in temperature reading of 20°F.

In other words, compared to Ni200 we need nearly a whole order of magnitude greater accuracy in reading resistance. With the original dna 40 and Ni200, we were talking about each 0.01 pushing the temp out by about 30°F. Now we're looking at 0.001 gradients pushing it out by 20°F.

It would be fantastic if it did it. And there's got to be a reason why they let the chip go down to 10 on that scale, and sell it as being for really low grade Nickel. But I'm guessing that really low grade Nickel probably still has a higher coefficient than SS? EDIT: SS317 is up to 15% Nickel. So surely 'low grade Nickel' probably means it's still at least 60 or 70%, else it wouldn't even be Nickel any more. So probably still a much higher coefficient than SS.

Anyway, none of this is meant to dispute your point which is that the Nickel Purity feature might help SS work better with TC - if it works like we hope, quite likely it will. My feeling is that it won't make it a viable alternative to Ni200 or Ti as a prime TC wire, but it might for example get it to the point where it at least doesn't burn cotton.

And who knows - perhaps they did make Nickel Purity work down to these sorts of levels of coefficient, and also made the resistance reading extremely accurate. We know the Yihi chips display resistance to 3 decimal places when Set Resistance is done, suggesting they might be using that granularity internally. Perhaps Infinite have done the same.

So with the right atty providing a perfect 510 connection, and optimum coils, maybe it could function on a par with the main two TC wires. Again, with the big caveat that this assumes that many assumptions are right :) In addition to the general ones, also that the coefficient for the SS we'd use, 317L, is not even lower than the 0.00094 I found for SS304.

Disclaimer: I kind of suck at maths so forgive me - and correct me - if there's any glaring errors in this. I also don't fully understand the coefficient calculation: the differences mentioned in my bullet points are calculated using a Coefficient of Resistance calculator, using starting resistance 0.1 and starting temp as 20°C, with ending temp as 232, 204, 149 - being 450, 400, 300°F respectively. But when I try to do 204°C to 232°C, using the starting resistance as the ending resistance from 20->204, I get a slightly higher end resistance than when I do 20->232 direct. I don't understand this, nor know if it matters - it might simply be that the calculator is truncating some decimal places on the resistance input and so rounding errors are introduced.

But the figures I have got seemed to be corroborated by my general understanding of TC, such as knowing that with Nickel 0.01Ω should be around 30°F of difference.


I guess, I have to buy this box.

We must all buy all the boxes ;)
 
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TheBloke

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One further thought on SS-TC: I found something that's perhaps interesting to the discussion:

SS304 is 8-10% Nickel by weight, where SS317L is 11-15%.

That would suggest to me (in my extreme ignorance) that it's possible that the coefficient for SS317 is going to be (slightly) higher than the 0.00094 of SS304.

We're only talking 5% at most, 1% at minimum, so the difference may be completely negligible. And that's all assuming that having a bit more nickel even has a noticeable effect on the resulting coefficient - Nickel does have a higher coefficient than Iron, which is the majority of Steel, but only about 20% higher. And I suppose really I'd need to study the full tables of components to see what else is different - maybe there's other changes that have a net reduction. Assuming, again, that you can even predict the coefficient of an alloy from the coefficients of its components.

But in the absence of hard data, I shan't be put off wild speculation ;)

If I have time tomorrow I'll do a couple of quick TC tests on my SS317L wire so I understand the baseline position ahead of getting the new Flask next week.
 

dwcraig1

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I need to find some stainless steel screws for it I guess.
 
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Phone Guy

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I need to find some stainless steel screws for it I guess.
Ace Hardware sells those hard to find machine screws in stainless (I think) but they're usually flat head or grub screws or set screws... Not Philips heads.
 

WeirdWillie

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For that one I used a different approach, I just went about it as if I was using Nichrome and it came through it pretty good.
My project is ready, not sure if I am.
11144989_1005263399497884_323047350718242346_n.jpg
If you haven't done one on one of these flask before, let me give you a little tip.
Remove the onboard buttons right off the bat. You're not going to need them and they are going to get in the way.
The first one I did I removed the fire button but left the up and down buttons, on power up it immediately ramped down to 1 watt.
Once I sink wrapped everything one of the wires was pressing on the down button, space is a premium in there so just go ahead and pop the top of the buttons off DO NOT completely remove the entire fire button just gut it there is a trace path that passes threw the fire button, if you remove the entire button assembly you will loose the trace and the board WILL NOT work.
 
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fcreeves

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Hmmm. No FT SXK 60w update yet?

No Reviews either? Damn it, guess I'll be the a guinea pig myself. Really trying to resist. I am down to just one mod (again) - dropping or leaving them somewhere? I lose (Sig 100+ & iStick 50 in last 6 weeks) or break a mod every 3-8 weeks it seems. At least the Invader Mini 50W is drop proof.

I've been wanting one of these for a few months now, resisting impulse. I really should hold off until tomorrow's Vape mail as I have a Sigelei getting warrantied and a smog round 3 IPV4 on its way too before I take the impulse plunge for the 60w flask. It's not drop proof and there are no silicone cases yet? I really shouldn't even consider it? I really should wait until my next round of being down to no backup mod to order. I'm guessing in two months there may be updates on TC or Wattage? Or get the Yihi M Class (3:1 $ ratio) as a silicone case has been made for it?

Decisions? I really need Bluetooth integration and the 'find my mod app' to cut my loses down to a minimum.
 

TheBloke

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Hmmm. No FT SXK 60w update yet?

No Reviews either? Damn it, guess I'll be the a guinea pig myself. Really trying to resist. I am down to just one mod (again) - dropping or leaving them somewhere? I lose (Sig 100+ & iStick 50 in last 6 weeks) or break a mod every 3-8 weeks it seems. At least the Invader Mini 50W is drop proof.

I've been wanting one of these for a few months now, resisting impulse. I really should hold off until tomorrow's Vape mail as I have a Sigelei getting warrantied and a smog round 3 IPV4 on its way too before I take the impulse plunge for the 60w flask. It's not drop proof and there are no silicone cases yet? I really shouldn't even consider it? I really should wait until my next round of being down to no backup mod to order. I'm guessing in two months there may be updates on TC or Wattage? Or get the Yihi M Class (3:1 $ ratio) as a silicone case has been made for it?

Decisions? I really need Bluetooth integration and the 'find my mod app' to cut my loses down to a minimum.

I ordered the Silver 50W flask (two days before they put the 60W up.) It's already landed in the UK and is awaiting customs; I'm hoping it will be delivered Tuesday. There's a small chance I might receive the 60W instead, as that happened to one of the other early purchasers of the Silver 50W, but I am not expecting that - more likely that was a once off.

Regarding wraps/cases for Vapor Flasks, a quick google showed me this Carbon Fibre wrap from a UK vendor. A lot of the rest of the links seemed to be Alibaba links, so China have definitely produced some. I didn't look much further, but my quick impression was that there's at least a few cases/sleeves available for the VaporFlask. It would surprise me if there wasn't, as the original VaporFlask v2 and v2.1 have been out for many months now, then there's the original Infinite chassis and the Kangxin and Waidea TC flasks, all popular and all been around a little while. Though I suppose it's not a mod that naturally lends itself to being wrapped, because it looks so good 'naked'.

Two months for updates to TC or wattage? Yes definitely - and some in a few weeks, too. There's the new Joyetech 60W device that has a special setting for Titanium wire (perhaps the new Infinite Flasks help with that, with its Nickel Purity, but unknown - and definitely not specifically intended for Titanium.) There's the new Snow Wolf 200W and the Sigelei 75W, notable for having some yet unknown third (fourth?) TC chip - not Yihi, not DNA 40, not a (direct) DNA 40 clone - though they have replicated a lot of DNA 40 stuff. There's a whole raft of more affordable genuine DNA 40 devices - though there you're stuck to 40W of course. There will probably be more Yihi-chipped 60W devices.

So yeah, plenty is coming - but that's always the case. Wait a month and order then and there will be more choice, but then something else new will still come along the day after.

If you meant significant advances to the tech, like a third wave after DNA 40's first wave and Yihi's second wave, well I don't think anything's been announced, so perhaps not in the next two or three months. But who knows - perhaps that Joyetech mod will be a third wave, with some new algorithm or improvements to the general accuracy or whatever. It certainly appears to be a new chip, given the Ti wire feature and new screen layout. And something big could be announced tomorrow - who can know?

Besides, if you ask any of the Titanium converts/zealots, they will for sure tell you that Titanium is so much better than Nickel that having specific support for it constitutes a major advance :) (I have Ti wire on order so hope to be incorporated into their ranks next week ;) )

TLDR: there's a hell of a lot out there, there's a hell of a lot coming, that's always going to be the case, so buy now or buy later, either way you're going to be outdated in weeks or at most a couple of months :)

Naturally I think it's a good idea to get the new Flask cos that's exactly what I did. But I suppose waiting a few more days right now might be prudent, if you want to see a few more reviews on it. It looks like there's enough info already to be pretty sure it's not an immediate bust, but you never know for sure if gremlins are lurking that won't be discovered until more people have used it for longer (like the Waidea ground issue.)

60W flask versus 60W Yihi? Well I'd definitely rather have an SX Mini M than a 60W DNA 40 clone, but as you said they're very different prices. I have the IPV4 which has basically the same TC as the SX Mini M, and am going to be interested to see how the new Flask compares. I definitely prefer the IPV4 TC to my current Waidea 40W, but I'm thinking that's mostly the extra power and so am assuming the new Flask will close the gap or level. The IPV4 is a good device, recommended - doesn't look nearly as good as the Flasks of course! And no Nickel Purity, for what that's worth - it might be super useful for non-Nickel-wire users; it might be useless. We shall see.
 

WeirdWillie

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Hmmm. No FT SXK 60w update yet?

No Reviews either? Damn it, guess I'll be the a guinea pig myself. Really trying to resist. I am down to just one mod (again) - dropping or leaving them somewhere? I lose (Sig 100+ & iStick 50 in last 6 weeks) or break a mod every 3-8 weeks it seems. At least the Invader Mini 50W is drop proof.

I've been wanting one of these for a few months now, resisting impulse. I really should hold off until tomorrow's Vape mail as I have a Sigelei getting warrantied and a smog round 3 IPV4 on its way too before I take the impulse plunge for the 60w flask. It's not drop proof and there are no silicone cases yet? I really shouldn't even consider it? I really should wait until my next round of being down to no backup mod to order. I'm guessing in two months there may be updates on TC or Wattage? Or get the Yihi M Class (3:1 $ ratio) as a silicone case has been made for it?

Decisions? I really need Bluetooth integration and the 'find my mod app' to cut my loses down to a minimum.
I find mods hard to loose or drop when they spend their mobile life in the front pocket of my Dockers.
I've been thinking of having a friend of mine that does leather work make me a holster for mine.
 

fcreeves

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@THE Bloke

I've scored Alibaba a few times for cases to no avail? Strange?

I did see Joyetech TC prototype @ VapeSummit. I like the form factor.

The Vape World is changing so fast!! So many good Chinese devices now...not just in the Vape World either (I just ordered an Ecoo E04 3G and I'm getting more Chinese scooters as my friends who visit Las Vegas can't say enough about them when they visit...especially the New Yorkers. (I got out of NYC at the beginning of the year.)

2 months in the Vape World...makes two month old atomizers seem almost obsolete! Can't wait to get the Epoch D1....or possibly a clone on FastTech if one appears before I'm ready to order? I'm willing to bet there will be more TC boards and the ones we have now will have nice revisions as well.

I have almost bought an M Class twice. The second time when Yihi sent me an email showing me the silicone case. I leave my mods places and forget. I don't deserve anything that pricey. I'm not too upset about loosing the 50w iStick as it was only $40 from Vape Summit with the bright green silicone to deter me loosing it. I had an authentic Steam Crave atty and a Vapor Shark no crud drip tip on it which cost more than the iStick. That sickens me.

@WeirdWillie

I've looked into all VF cases. There are really nice hand made leather cases. Really nice ones. They cost more than the cloned flasks themselves though.

However, if I had a hip flask holster, I'd probably never lose it...just send it for somersaults!

I look forward to your 50w (hopefully 60w like the other FT guy) review.

I've justified the purchase in my head now. I would have to use it only in the bed room upstairs where there is no tile...$60 for a bedroom only mod?
 
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Croak

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Right behind you...
When I was in Malta, I bought a new Kymco Agility 200i 16" wheel scooter, made in the Chinese mainland. Ran the crap out of that thing for two years, it never missed a beat. Just kept on top of oil changes, and ditched the crap Chinese tires (well, not total crap, but no good in the wet) in favor of Michelin Citysmarts. Co-worker bought a Honda 150 at the same time from the same dealership, and spent a fair amount of time in the shop for warranty work.
 
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WeirdWillie

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@THE Bloke

I've scored Alibaba a few times for cases to no avail? Strange?

I did see Joyetech TC prototype @ VapeSummit. I like the form factor.

The Vape World is changing so fast!! So many good Chinese devices now...not just in the Vape World either (I just ordered an Ecoo E04 3G and I'm getting more Chinese scooters as my friends who visit Las Vegas can't say enough about them when they visit...especially the New Yorkers. (I got out of NYC at the beginning of the year.)

2 months in the Vape World...makes two month old atomizers seem almost obsolete! Can't wait to get the Epoch D1....or possibly a clone on FastTech if one appears before I'm ready to order? I'm willing to bet there will be more TC boards and the ones we have now will have nice revisions as well.

I have almost bought an M Class twice. The second time when Yihi sent me an email showing me the silicone case. I leave my mods places and forget. I don't deserve anything that pricey. I'm not too upset about loosing the 50w iStick as it was only $40 from Vape Summit with the bright green silicone to deter me loosing it. I had an authentic Steam Crave atty and a Vapor Shark no crud drip tip on it which cost more than the iStick. That sickens me.

@WeirdWillie

I've looked into all VF cases. There are really nice hand made leather cases. Really nice ones. They cost more than the cloned flasks themselves though.

However, if I had a hip flask holster, I'd probably never lose it...just send it for somersaults!

I look forward to your 50w (hopefully 60w like the other FT guy) review.

I've justified the purchase in my head now. I would have to use it only in the bed room upstairs where there is no tile...$60 for a bedroom only mod?
I think I'm going to set out the 50/60watt flask for now, I'm not liking the looks of the fit and finish of the pics on FT.
Now if Waidea does a 50/60 watt I may grab one or two, I've been impressed by Waidea's flask in regards to fit and finish, and functionality is great once you fix the janky ground.
Besides that personally I can't really see the need from the stand point of temperature protection for above 40 watts, I find my sweet spot is 30watt at between 430°and 450°depending on the flavor Nicoticket juice I have loaded up and only run work hardened twisted 28/30 Ni200 at 0.14Ω - 0.16Ω 1.8mm Id
I may need to also mention I rarely ever run anything other than Lemo's and now Lemo 2's using the bridge wick method I posted on the The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics | Page 83 | E-Cigarette Forum back in January.
No runs, no drips, no errors, this wicking method also lends itself well to high VG juices and high wattage kanthal builds.
 

WeirdWillie

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Wow 1.8mm ID is tiny - doubly so on that super spacious Lemo/2 deck. I just looked at your tutorial (great tip about the drop of juice to lubricate the screws, awesome!) and you used 3mm there.

Why did you switch to 1.8mm and why so small?
I meant 2.8mm not 1.8 I guess it could be called 3mm but the screwdriver shank I use mics out at 2.8mm 12/13 wrap gives me 0.16Ω and awesome flavor and I can replicate it ever single time.
 
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Phone Guy

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